[jdhill]

Hi guys. I am looking at a 2011 335d with 119K on it and know nothing about them. It's at a dealer 375 miles from me so I want to get any and all questions answered before driving or flying all that way. Any advice on what I need to ask and what to look for mechanically would be appreciated!

[jdhill]

So I will driving mostly in LA traffic which as I understand is not great for burning off carbon buildup. From what I've heard driving 20-30 minutes every week at 2500-3000 rpm (in a gas engine) is good for cleaning carbon buildup. Is it the same prognosis and fix for the diesel engine? Also, what are the normal running costs (i.e. urea injection refills) and for people in California, smog rules on diesels. How often do the turbos or related parts go out and ballpark how much this fixes cost? I'm trying to do a crash course on these diesels and get myself educated. I hate dealing with car dealers and don't trust anything they say but will have to until I get up there and check it out myself or have a neutral third party look at it. Thanks guys!

[BB_cuda]

Jdhill,
Do not rush into this until you have been educated on the various things to look for. CBU is more pronounced on a diesel due to the soot component. You should definately insure the harmonic damper on front of engine isn't about to shread. Lots of threads on guys have small turbo not boosting correctly. That would be case if not much acceleration at rpms below 2500. NOx sensors can be a nuisance. DEF tanks either leaking or bad temp sensor. Both of which result in needing new $2500 tank. There is an after market company that you can get refurbished tank for $500. The EGR cooler can develop cracks. The fuel filter should have been changed about 4 times by now. Look for oil leaks on the turbo oil lines. Transmission fluid should have been changed for sure once and I would have done it twice in 119,000 miles. Don't listen to dealer BS story of life time fluid in trans. ZF is the trans manufacturer and they say change it at 50,000 miles. I'm sure I've forgotten a few things but others will likely chime in. What state do you plan to own car in and do they have diesel emissions in the state inspection ?

[gavronm]

I had a MAF go bad at about 65,000.

I'd also take a look at the red boost pipe for particularly bad leaking. A little oil mist is fine but covered in oil and you'll want them to install a new one with all new seals.

[DarrenO]

Not 100% sure on your set up in the US with these 35d's however in the uk there is a few things to look out for (some of which has been mentioned).

Solid evidence of maintainance for starters!

Ideally this should of had gearbox service (mechatronic sleeve, ZF oil and new sump pan)

Vacuum lines replaced

Has turbo controllers been changed? (Common fault)

Have swirl flaps been deleted? (worth blanking and also leak from the seals)

Glow plug module can play up

Running temp needs to be over 88'C (not sure in 'F) if not need both OEM stats

Red boost pipe seals are prone to leaking

Turbo oil feed pipe (top) are prone to perish and leak

Other than these above they are fantastic cars and I am now on my second 35d and love the value for money in terms of performance and the whole package.

[Adieu]

Originally Posted by jdhill

So I will driving mostly in LA traffic which as I understand is not great for burning off carbon buildup.

LA traffic?

Pretty much as high-RPMey as it gets, though YMMV... just downshift a lot


Main consumable: tires
DEF refills: walmart $8

Replace at purchase: both belts (pay somebody, theyre a PITA), EGR cooler hose (snaps on - dont pay labor, pop the hood and pop her in)

PS smog checks, just go to Long Beach