[Torqu3]

I know there's a billion DIY guides out there but I'm still confused on what OBD connector I need to get. I have heard I need to get EDIABAS in order to cycle the fuel pump, but searching EDIABAS on Amazon returns questionable results. So basically my question is what should I buy in order to do basic maintenance on my 2010 335D. That is fuel pump, reading and resetting codes, and programming in a new battery. I also may want to do some general thing sthat the Carly app can do(change the door chime, how the lights operate, etc). Should I buy the Bavarian Tech Tool, or something else? I don't need anything too advanced, but if the Tech Tool is my only option, I'll go for it. Thanks!

[Torqu3]

I read through that and it looks like general consensus is to buy the BT Tool. Is that tool capable of programming in a new battery, as well as the other modifications I listed?

[RollingCoal]

If you have the pass through rear seats, it takes about $5.00 worth of electrical connectors & wire and a spare lawn/garden battery to prime the pump. Literally took me less than 30 minutes to tap the wires and all. Next go round will take 5 minutes tops.

[GaryE30]

OP I would request a moderator to change your thread title if you're looking more for diagnostic / modification tools / software where your scope is outside the fuel filter.

[Torqu3]

Still no answer really. I don't have the pass through rear seats so priming the fuel pump that way may be more difficult. I know Carly can register a new battery, but I'm looking g for more of an all in one solution if such a thing exists.

[digitaldav]

Carly does enable you to switch battery type to AGM. I just did this last weekend. As far as priming fuel pump, if your careful not loosing to much fuel from hoses and add fuel to new filter before install it will start only after a few seconds. So personally I would go with Carly app.

[Frediesel]

It looks like the Schwaben BMW/MINI scan tool ($200 on ECS Tuning) can register a battery (not change type), code, and perform activation. It may be another option for you to explore.

[RollingCoal]

Originally Posted by digitaldav

Carly does enable you to switch battery type to AGM. I just did this last weekend. As far as priming fuel pump, if your careful not loosing to much fuel from hoses and add fuel to new filter before install it will start only after a few seconds. So personally I would go with Carly app.

This is not a recommended approach to priming the diesel filter. The lifespan of a diesel HPFP will be reduced from pumping with no lubricant (diesel).

However, the Carly app seems to be fairly popular, and other options for priming the filter are available.

[lnxguy]

Originally Posted by RollingCoal

This is not a recommended approach to priming the diesel filter. The lifespan of a diesel HPFP will be reduced from pumping with no lubricant (diesel).

If it was completely dry maybe, but one that's been in a car and running previous to the filter swap should be fine.

[Persian Whisperjet]

Originally Posted by lnxguy

If it was completely dry maybe, but one that's been in a car and running previous to the filter swap should be fine.

Can you help us understand your basis for saying it "should be fine"?

[lnxguy]

Originally Posted by Persian Whisperjet

Can you help us understand your basis for saying it "should be fine"?

Sure.

There's still fuel in the system (You clamped those fuel lines before removing the filter right?)
There's still diesel INSIDE the HPFP itself (As I said, it's not like it's brand new out of the box and bone dry)
A little bit of air in the system isn't going to do the HPFP any harm until it's purged.

Also, if you're really worried about it, pre-fill the filter with diesel before connecting it, clamp the feed line to the engine with these as well.

[temporaptor]

Or you can just do it the right way and activate the pump to get all the air out, it's so easy a cave man could do it.... well maybe not lol.

$40 cable and some free software and you too could do it.
Or when I was too busy i just took my X5 into Bmw and paid them, my time as worth more in this instance. Plus my dealer is very reasonable with the pricing.

[montr]

Originally Posted by lnxguy

Sure.

There's still fuel in the system (You clamped those fuel lines before removing the filter right?)
There's still diesel INSIDE the HPFP itself (As I said, it's not like it's brand new out of the box and bone dry)
A little bit of air in the system isn't going to do the HPFP any harm until it's purged.

Also, if you're really worried about it, pre-fill the filter with diesel before connecting it, clamp the feed line to the engine with these as well.

Except for a very short tube, the fuel lines are made of a hard plastic. They will break if you try to clamp.

Here is what I do.
I remove fuel line #1 and plug it with a golf Tee or something similar.
Next, unclip the fuel heater from the filter (back of filter). No need to plug the line.
Prefill filter with diesel fuel. New filter come with a cap making it easy to prefill.
Reinstall

With this technique, engine start in only 2 seconds of cranking.

[Torqu3]

Thanks for the response Monte! I think I've decided to just save up for the Schwaben tool on ECS Tuning. Looks like it'll do almost everything I want.

[caiken]

Originally Posted by temporaptor

Or you can just do it the right way and activate the pump to get all the air out, it's so easy a cave man could do it.... well maybe not lol.

$40 cable and some free software and you too could do it.
Or when I was too busy i just took my X5 into Bmw and paid them, my time as worth more in this instance. Plus my dealer is very reasonable with the pricing.

Wow. My dealer charges twice as much.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by RollingCoal

If you have the pass through rear seats, it takes about $5.00 worth of electrical connectors & wire and a spare lawn/garden battery to prime the pump. Literally took me less than 30 minutes to tap the wires and all. Next go round will take 5 minutes tops.

+1, This really is a no brainer. I've read numerous times for folks that just crank it and it worked fine. Not sure how many times this can be done and eventually get bit. I prefer to do the no damage possible scenario as I plan to do fuel filter service often.

Not trying to start a big debate with the crankers. It is just really really easy to purge the air.

Related to injection pump health, I just bought Optilube XPD from idparts.com to improve lubricity. I had been running the gray jug of Diesel Kleen for several years. Car is running ever so slightly different. Could be just the tank of fuel itself. I'm on 2nd tank with it added.

[lnxguy]

Easiest and cheapest way to add lubricity would be to give the tank a splash of biodiesel during fill up(if you've got a source near by)

[BB_cuda]

There is a biofuels place downtown. You have to be careful with its usage. It dissolves build ups that can occur in petro diesel. I've read of people that ran petro for years and went to bio and had problems. Not because of the bio itself but because it broke loose crud from petro in system long term.

In small amounts like an additive might be a different story. The place I normally get fuel says "up to 5%" biodiesel so I never know if it's none, a little, or full 5%. Now, if I could get for sure none (B0), I might use it as a lubricity modifier.

On a different front, bio has way higher cetane rating.

[lnxguy]

Yeah, I wouldn't go filling the tank up with b100 anytime soon. But if you're looking for a bit of added protection in the lubricity department (Say half gallon per tank?) you can't beat the price.

BioD and cetane ratings can be a bit tricky. It really does depend on what the BioD was made from. I've read anywhere from 45-67 in the cetane department. Problem with BioD (B100) is that it's got less energy then typical USLD, so you'll get worse mileage and less power. Personally I'd never run it straight (Even if BMW says we can run B5, but like you said who knows what you're actually getting at the pump)

I wish they'd just bring back good old LSD, lol.