[Searcher]

Help me understand some thoughts about tunes please.

BPC stage 1 - $700+ 300whp, send in DME
JR auto tuning stage 1 - $599 300whp, send in DME
Burger JB4 - $249 300whp and plug n play

For a daily driver why would anyone pick something other than the JB4?

Secondary thoughts...I am considering doing the ABC delete and stage 2.5 race tune from JR, since BPC is done, in the near future. Should I just do the JB4 for now until I have all the parts for the complete stage 2.5 race tune?

Since our cars do the one wheel peel, which is hyper annoying, especially in the wet. Can we replace the diff from another model that already has a LSD?

[dixy2k]

Not sure if those numbers are correct.

Box tuning is well known, for many years, to be the worst type of tuning ever.
Europeans have known this for many years before we got a taste of it on VW and BMW.
It does not change and adapt all the engine parameters.

Of course there will be many defenders of this box tuning chiming in, but let's see how many will have the courage to say something got messed up while running it, got CELs or even damage done. Most of them run it on a lower setting so they won't risk damaging the engine.

[temporaptor]

The 335d's have brake intervention that act as a locker, your 335d should not 1 wheel peel unless you have coded it off. That said a lsd is still better.

[gavronm]

Originally Posted by Searcher

Should I just do the JB4 for now until I have all the parts for the complete stage 2.5 race tune?

This is probably an OK plan. Only caveat is you'll want to have something to read codes and reset check engine lights. I run my JBD (don't try putting a JB4 on a diesel, it won't end well) at 100% but if I don't wait long enough after initial start up before really getting on it I'll go into limp mode and occasionally throw a check engine light. Limp mode can be cured by restarting but you'll be stuck with the CEL if you don't have something to reset it.

Some hypothesize that a JBD will accelerate CBU because the added fuel creates more soot that gets recirculated through the EGR. Of course if you block the EGR that won't be a concern, but blocking the EGR without a tune will definitely leave you with a check engine light. There are tools available (Burger Cantool being the one I've used) that will reset that light for you every time you start the car.

Those are the main issues with the JBD - it's a compromise and certainly not a "complete solution" like a tune is, but if you can deal with those issues it certainly gets the job done. You can probably find a used JBD for $150 or less if you look around and/or wait long enough.

I second the comments above regarding the LSD.

[WreckerX5d]

Never had a one leg burnout in this car before, thanks to the E-Diff.

The JBD/EGR block was fine for me for a good year or two, until I was happily forced to get a tune to bypass an emissions related CEL (DEF tank sensor error, cheaper to code it out).

Those dyno results are a bit skewed though. The JBD seems to get around 280whp, while a BPC/JR gets 320-350whp depending on conditions and stages.

[Searcher]

I will be going stage 1 for now.

[Got_Diesel]

I've had mine do 1 wheel burnout brake stands. see signature pic.

it does lay down nice 11's when i let off the brake instead of standing on it.

[Hoooper]

Originally Posted by dixy2k

Of course there will be many defenders of this box tuning chiming in, but let's see how many will have the courage to say something got messed up while running it, got CELs or even damage done. Most of them run it on a lower setting so they won't risk damaging the engine.

I ran a jbd at 100% with meth injection for a couple years and probably 50k miles without any issues. Compared to unmodified cars on the forum if anything it made it more reliable. The JBD is perfectly safe at 100% but it's not the best tune option available when compared to computer flashes, those will have better drivability and better overall power gains.