[cb1]

http://datazap.me/u/cb1/2007-335i-po...ta=16&hg=14-15

Also, attached a pic of the chart from Zasquatch's Datalog Grapher (Thank you sir!).

Check engine light came on. Checked with Cobb AP and showed:

P2C2D
P2C3D
P2C2E
U0D87

I erased the codes and ran the log. I don't have a long stretch of road to safely WOT 3-4th gears. I was only able to do 3rd gear WOT.

Could be the O2 sensors going bad? Car runs fine (at least normal to what I am used to).

Recent changes: One week old (200-300miles) VTT inlets and VTT OEM replacement turbos. Walnut blasting, coils, spark plugs, and new hpfp done approximately 10k miles ago.

I am running OTS map: Stage2+fmic sport on 91 octane.

Please advise. Thanks in advance.

[cb1]

Bump. Anyone?

[RSL]

My guess is either the O2 sensors were put back in the wrong pipes or they were damaged during the R&R. Check all 4 O2 sensors, make sure the gray wired O2s are in the rear DP and black wires in the front DP. If any are in the wrong spots, you can try just swapping which connectors they're on.

[cb1]

Originally Posted by RSL

My guess is either the O2 sensors were put back in the wrong pipes or they were damaged during the R&R. Check all 4 O2 sensors, make sure the gray wired O2s are in the rear DP and black wires in the front DP. If any are in the wrong spots, you can try just swapping which connectors they're on.

Thank you for the response. I read a lot of threads and this was one of the suggestions.

Others suggest to reset adaptations with INPA. I am trying to get INPA working again on my laptop.

I hope the O2 sensors were just put in the wrong bung and not damaged/broken. They are pretty expensive.

[RSL]

If the O2s are taken out, it's usually one or the other, but there's almost no reason to take the rear O2s out unless you're changing DPs too. So, if any are reversed, it's probably the fronts, in which case, you'll probably need to swap the physical sensor locations to where they should be. The wires are different lengths to reach the connectors.

You can try the reset on the AP if INPA isn't working, but I'm not sure if it does O2s correctly and doubt that's going to fix anything anyway. For some reason, the lines in your logs are more jagged than I'm used to seeing, almost like it's a faster sample rate.

[cb1]

Originally Posted by RSL

If the O2s are taken out, it's usually one or the other, but there's almost no reason to take the rear O2s out unless you're changing DPs too. So, if any are reversed, it's probably the fronts, in which case, you'll probably need to swap the physical sensor locations to where they should be. The wires are different lengths to reach the connectors.

You can try the reset on the AP if INPA isn't working, but I'm not sure if it does O2s correctly and doubt that's going to fix anything anyway. For some reason, the lines in your logs are more jagged than I'm used to seeing, almost like it's a faster sample rate.

I checked the 02 sensors and they are in the right places. I was monitoring the AP gauges for bank 1 lambda. After about 10miles, the reading will get stuck at 31.xx. Lambda bank2 stays normal. I cleared and reset the codes/ecu. But codes still come back.

I might just take the car back to EAS since they did my turbos and inlets. These all happened a week after they did the work.

[RSL]

It clearly stops getting readings (or correct ones) from the front sensor and if it's the same cycle where it reads OK and then stops, I don't know what would cause that. Maybe not totally dead and just something rears it's head once the sensor/wires get enough heat in them or the car/motor bounces just right. I'd certainly have them check it out, but I don't know if there's any real decisive way to check everything in them. INPA could shed some light and if EAS has an INPA setup (I'd imagine they do), they might be able to see if there are any obvious weird things going on with voltages/resistance/temps/adaptations/output.

If needed, O2s aren't "that" expensive. Bosch front O2 can be had new for ~$125 and I think I actually saw one new in box in the classifieds here for like $80 shipped recently. For me, it'd be worth $100 or so just to swap a new one in that either fixes it or at least eliminates anything physically wrong with the sensor for the list of potentials.

[cb1]

Originally Posted by RSL

It clearly stops getting readings (or correct ones) from the front sensor and if it's the same cycle where it reads OK and then stops, I don't know what would cause that. Maybe not totally dead and just something rears it's head once the sensor/wires get enough heat in them or the car/motor bounces just right. I'd certainly have them check it out, but I don't know if there's any real decisive way to check everything in them. INPA could shed some light and if EAS has an INPA setup (I'd imagine they do), they might be able to see if there are any obvious weird things going on with voltages/resistance/temps/adaptations/output.

If needed, O2s aren't "that" expensive. Bosch front O2 can be had new for ~$125 and I think I actually saw one new in box in the classifieds here for like $80 shipped recently. For me, it'd be worth $100 or so just to swap a new one in that either fixes it or at least eliminates anything physically wrong with the sensor for the list of potentials.

I agree with you. I also noticed some oil leak from the front turbo. I will attach a picture. Not sure if this may have caused the the o2 sensor to go bad. In addition, I just noticed wastegate rattle from one of these 2-week old turbos (approx 500miles). Link:

I have emailed Tony @ Vargas as well. I hope he will have some input on the problems.

I will have EAS diagnose everything tomorrow since they did all the work.

Problem after another...

[RSL]

Ouch. I'd hope that's WG rattle and not a wheel rubbing on a housing. Chris@Vargas is on here somewhere, might try contacting him too after they check everything out.

Hopefully, that oil is just a bad drain seal, which would just be an install thing, but it's on the turbine clamp too which would make me more nervous. You might want to have them pull that rear DP off real quick while they're inspecting things. If the inside of the turbine has oil in it (or oil on the front bank 2 O2 sensor), that's obviously not a good sign. They can also check for any play in the shaft with the DP off. I'd expect you'd be seeing smoke out the exhaust if it were leaking past the rings into the turbine though and definitely if you don't have cats.

Oil on the O2 sensors definitely isn't good for them, but you're having reading problems on the front, so IF oil is leaking through the rear, it's obviously not enough to mess with it.

[cb1]

Originally Posted by RSL

Ouch. I'd hope that's WG rattle and not a wheel rubbing on a housing. Chris@Vargas is on here somewhere, might try contacting him too after they check everything out.

Hopefully, that oil is just a bad drain seal, which would just be an install thing, but it's on the turbine clamp too which would make me more nervous. You might want to have them pull that rear DP off real quick while they're inspecting things. If the inside of the turbine has oil in it (or oil on the front bank 2 O2 sensor), that's obviously not a good sign. They can also check for any play in the shaft with the DP off. I'd expect you'd be seeing smoke out the exhaust if it were leaking past the rings into the turbine though and definitely if you don't have cats.

Oil on the O2 sensors definitely isn't good for them, but you're having reading problems on the front, so IF oil is leaking through the rear, it's obviously not enough to mess with it.

I just dropped of the car at EAS. I tried to reproduce the rattle but I could not. Kevin @ EAS stated they will check it out. He added that it could just be the seals.

I received an email from Vargas. They stated that the leak could be from the oil feed dripping down. He added that they "see a LOT on turbo installs. The top o-ring gets cut and you get oil drips."

I will have EAS check the turbine housing and O2 sensor for any evidence of oil/burnt oil and shaft play.

I see some unusual amount of smoke compared to when I got the downpipes. So definitely, it is burning oil.

Just to clarify, I am getting pre-cat bank 1 errors. The oils leak is from the front turbo too. I could not tell if the rattle is coming from the front or rear turbo.

I am kind of nervous about all of these. I dropped a significant amount of money and the whole process took about 1.5months (since initial ordering of the parts). I am hoping it's just the seal and no shaft play or leaks inside the turbo. I think I am in denial at this point.

[RSL]

I shouldn't trust myself at 3-4am. Yeah, definitely the front in the pic now that I've had some rest lol For sure, if there's oil/vapor flowing over/through the O2 sensor, it can mess with it. Hopefully, they get to the bottom of it and it's something simple like a bad o-ring/gasket and O2 sensor.

[cb1]

Lol can't trust myself either at those times. Just to early to process stuff.

But anyway EAS just gave me an update. They changed the gaskets. But the car is still smoking. They are thinking that the turbo is bad. They will reach out to Vargas today and see if they will warranty (which they should). The turbos only have 500miles and it was done professionally. So no reason not to warranty the turbos.

IF Vargas does not warranty, what are my options? Can it be rebuilt?

[RSL]

Some N54s don't need much reason to smoke, so I wouldn't rely solely on that to diagnose a turbo. Hopefully, they pulled the DP, saw oil in the turbine or enough lateral/axial play for the wheels to contact housings, either of which would definitely be a solid case.

As for rebuilding if needed, it would depend how bad and where the damage is, so maybe yes, maybe no. Might need some larger parts replaced (wheels, housings, CHRA) than just a simple rebuild, but wouldn't know until it's torn down and thoroughly inspected.

[cb1]

Originally Posted by RSL

Some N54s don't need much reason to smoke, so I wouldn't rely solely on that to diagnose a turbo. Hopefully, they pulled the DP, saw oil in the turbine or enough lateral/axial play for the wheels to contact housings, either of which would definitely be a solid case.

As for rebuilding if needed, it would depend how bad and where the damage is, so maybe yes, maybe no. Might need some larger parts replaced (wheels, housings, CHRA) than just a simple rebuild, but wouldn't know until it's torn down and thoroughly inspected.

Yeah. I agree. Can't really tell what's going on. I am given very few information by EAS. They only told me that the turbo may be bad and that Vargas wants the turbo back for inspection. At this point, no one knows if it will be covered ny warranty. I am not sure if EAS made an install error that caused the problems or if Vargas sent a bad turbo. I guess the car will be down for even longer.

I really wish Pure had their Stage1's available when I was in the market for turbo replacement. Stage2's was just out of my budget and my whp goals are only 400whp.

I am frustrated about all of these problems. Now, I am thinking that I will have to spend more money for labor and possibly turbos (if not warrantied by Vargas). All these expenses will probably now amount to Pure Stage 2's. I just hope it gets warrantied by Vargas.

[RSL]

500 miles is definitely short order. IF there is actually a problem with the turbo itself, either manufacturing issue or install issue would be my first thoughts. Of course, it's very easy for one to say it was an install issue and the other to say it was a manufacturing issue. When you spend a chunk on something and things don't work out, it can get depressing. You pretty much need turbos for your car to run though, so hopefully it gets resolved without much more expenditure.

I didn't want the Stage 2s either, but Pure just released a "DD" version at a reasonable price that kinda piqued my interest. It will either be those or an ADE bottom mount single kit if/when my RR600s need replacing...hopefully not any time soon.

[cb1]

Originally Posted by RSL

500 miles is definitely short order. IF there is actually a problem with the turbo itself, either manufacturing issue or install issue would be my first thoughts. Of course, it's very easy for one to say it was an install issue and the other to say it was a manufacturing issue. When you spend a chunk on something and things don't work out, it can get depressing. You pretty much need turbos for your car to run though, so hopefully it gets resolved without much more expenditure.

I didn't want the Stage 2s either, but Pure just released a "DD" version at a reasonable price that kinda piqued my interest. It will either be those or an ADE bottom mount single kit if/when my RR600s need replacing...hopefully not any time soon.

I was looking at Pure's website last night but did not see the DD version. I was in contact with Pure before I purchased the vargas. They told me then that they were releasing the stage 1 kit "in a few weeks." Could this be the DD kit?

At this point, I would recommend Pure over any company. And, they are in Socal. Theycan do the install for the same price as EAS (I was given an estimate by Pure). So, win-win there. A manufacturer with a good rep who can install the turbos and can warranty their products.

I reached out to Pure last night for some information as well. They will be my next option if Vargas does not work out.

[cb1]

Update as of 11/10/16: Turbos finally arrived at Vargas. Tony stated that both thrust bearings were really worn. He stated that the only instance both thrusts bearing will wesr out so fas is if the car was having compressor surge. I did not argue with him since I am no expert.

I looked up what compressor surge and definitely (from the several youtube videos and descriptions I found online) my car was not having compressor surge. I also informed him that I had VTT inlets VRSF charge pipe with HKS BOV (since he asked). I also told him EAS did the install (professionally). Again I tried not to argue. I just wanted my turbos back.

Luckily, Tony warrantied the turbos. But, he stated that if it happens again, he will not be able to warranty them again. So, is that fair?

Monday 11/14/15 received tracking info for the turbos. They will arrive at EAS on Wednesday. I decided to switch to a Tial Q BOV and will tap the intake manifold for a dedicated vacuum source once I get the car home. Car was making that weird howling sound after vtt inlets were put in (again, this was a common occurrence/sound post inlets. Not compressor surge).

So I think that if these fail again, used orm turbos will be put in and I will wait for the pure stage1 to be released. Charles @ Pure stated it will be ready in a few weeks.

[924er]

Originally Posted by cb1

Update as of 11/10/16: Turbos finally arrived at Vargas. Tony stated that both thrust bearings were really worn. He stated that the only instance both thrusts bearing will wesr out so fas is if the car was having compressor surge. I did not argue with him since I am no expert.

I looked up what compressor surge and definitely (from the several youtube videos and descriptions I found online) my car was not having compressor surge. I also informed him that I had VTT inlets VRSF charge pipe with HKS BOV (since he asked). I also told him EAS did the install (professionally). Again I tried not to argue. I just wanted my turbos back.

Luckily, Tony warrantied the turbos. But, he stated that if it happens again, he will not be able to warranty them again. So, is that fair?

Monday 11/14/15 received tracking info for the turbos. They will arrive at EAS on Wednesday. I decided to switch to a Tial Q BOV and will tap the intake manifold for a dedicated vacuum source once I get the car home. Car was making that weird howling sound after vtt inlets were put in (again, this was a common occurrence/sound post inlets. Not compressor surge).

So I think that if these fail again, used orm turbos will be put in and I will wait for the pure stage1 to be released. Charles @ Pure stated it will be ready in a few weeks.

So how are the turbos running now? I'm kinda getting second thoughts on ordering those same ones