[dstrickland]

Haven't really played with it much, been working on other projects. My shuttering isn't really a huge concern to me, I know how to avoid it. As long as I don't go lead footed until after 2k rpm in first gear it doesn't happen.

I'm thinking it may be the flex disc and/or center support bearing. They're both cheap so I'll try them before buying the other 3 injectors I need.

[aymen_a22]

I wish mine wasn't noticeable or irritating. I have to rev each gear to make sure the next gear engages at over 1500rpm otherwise there is loads of hesitation.

It is as if the engine is misfiring really badly, but once past 2000rpm its fine.

Can I test the vanos with inpa? I went to the activate tab and it had a condition that engine must be above 1000rpm. I am conscious that I could damage the engine or dme if I do the wrong thing.

[dstrickland]

Originally Posted by aymen_a22

I wish mine wasn't noticeable or irritating. I have to rev each gear to make sure the next gear engages at over 1500rpm otherwise there is loads of hesitation.

It is as if the engine is misfiring really badly, but once past 2000rpm its fine.

Can I test the vanos with inpa? I went to the activate tab and it had a condition that engine must be above 1000rpm. I am conscious that I could damage the engine or dme if I do the wrong thing.

Your problem definitely is different then mine. Mine only happens at full throttle from a stop and only last a second or so.

Did you check your entire car for codes?

[aymen_a22]

For information to use INPA to test the Vanos system dynamically while the engine is running, the following procedure should get you to the correct menu.

VANOS TEST USING INPA

Select Engine Module.
Select (F9) - System
Select (SHIFT + F1) - EOL VANOS System Test
Select (F2) - Start Systemtest VANOS

This will then run through a selection of tests and return fault codes (if there are any faults).

Please use caution when doing anything when the engine is running. I hold no responsibility if this does not work for you.

ALSO NEVER CLEAR ADAPTIONS WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING!

[aymen_a22]

So I just checked all codes. Nothing related to the engine, just the standard Rear Ride Height Sensor (which I need to sort out).

I then went into INPA and went through the menus to find what the VANOS test.

It crashed a few times when running (scared me a little) but then finished and was ok. I then repeated it with it on KCAN rather than DCAN and it didn't crash.

This came up with no faults so I then turned off the engine and cleared all engine adaptions. I then scanned for codes using ISTA+ and it had adaption errors so I fixed them in ISTA+.

With all codes gone and unable to find anything wrong, I then took the car for a spin and it seems to be fixed.

Could it have been as simple as resetting adaptions?

[rjahl]

Originally Posted by aymen_a22

So I just checked all codes. Nothing related to the engine, just the standard Rear Ride Height Sensor (which I need to sort out).

I then went into INPA and went through the menus to find what the VANOS test.

It crashed a few times when running (scared me a little) but then finished and was ok. I then repeated it with it on KCAN rather than DCAN and it didn't crash.

This came up with no faults so I then turned off the engine and cleared all engine adaptions. I then scanned for codes using ISTA+ and it had adaption errors so I fixed them in ISTA+.

With all codes gone and unable to find anything wrong, I then took the car for a spin and it seems to be fixed.

Could it have been as simple as resetting adaptions?

What were the adaption errors? Did you write them down? If you did not clear the history, it may still be stored there.

[aymen_a22]

The adaption errors only came up after I reset them in INPA. INPA then showed no errors but ISTA+ did (when I did a full car scan).

002A39 - DME: Valvetronic, adjustment range

002CFB - DME: Throttle-Valve adaption value

[aymen_a22]

So clearing the adaptions did improve things but there is still a noticeable jolt when the power stops then comes back in.

It is only doing it at low revs when I accelerate harder than usual. If I am in 2nd gear and am rolling at idle then accelerate the hole car kangaroos/jolts.

I think I am going to pull the intake VANOS solenoid and inspect it.

Still no codes though. Any ideas?

[dstrickland]

Originally Posted by aymen_a22

So clearing the adaptions did improve things but there is still a noticeable jolt when the power stops then comes back in.

It is only doing it at low revs when I accelerate harder than usual. If I am in 2nd gear and am rolling at idle then accelerate the hole car kangaroos/jolts.

I think I am going to pull the intake VANOS solenoid and inspect it.

Still no codes though. Any ideas?

Are you still throwing 2A39?

[aymen_a22]

Not throwing any codes now. Absolutely nothing.

I have read that the guibo (propshaft flexible coupling) can create a similar shudder but it is odd that it is at the same engine speed, regardless of gear, only at high load.

[dstrickland]

Originally Posted by aymen_a22

Not throwing any codes now. Absolutely nothing.

I have read that the guibo (propshaft flexible coupling) can create a similar shudder but it is odd that it is at the same engine speed, regardless of gear, only at high load.

The flex disc is around $75 & a few hours of labor. It's worth a shot. That & the center support bearing are on my to do list.

[aymen_a22]

Drove it again earlier and continued to drive in 6th whilst it was shaking and hesitating and I finally got a code.

29CD Ignition failure, Cylinder 1
(209) with fuel cut-off
(16) Test conditions fulfilled
(32) Malfunction presently not present, not oBD debounced
(49) Bracket causing lighting of warning lamp (MIL)
PO301 Combustion misfires detected Cylinder 1

[dstrickland]

Originally Posted by aymen_a22

Drove it again earlier and continued to drive in 6th whilst it was shaking and hesitating and I finally got a code.

29CD Ignition failure, Cylinder 1
(209) with fuel cut-off
(16) Test conditions fulfilled
(32) Malfunction presently not present, not oBD debounced
(49) Bracket causing lighting of warning lamp (MIL)
PO301 Combustion misfires detected Cylinder 1

Nice. Now just determine whether it's the plug or coil.

[aymen_a22]

I kept the the old coil from cylinder 2 which was working fine except under extreme load at high rpm. I think I will chuck it in and test it for a week or so.

Fingers crossed. Might be a cheap fix.

[aymen_a22]

I had another look at the fault code earlier and translated it all into english and it was interesting to find the following statement at the point the code was logged:

Maximum speed at ignition = 1664 RPM
Maximum relative load at ignition = 99.61%

I haven't changed the coil pack yet but will do later today, sounds like the coil may be faulty if it was at 100% load.

I will keep you all posted.

[aymen_a22]

Latest update:

I replaced the coil pack in cylinder number 1 (which had the error).

The misfire at low revs and high engine load seems to have gone. I have also cleared the adaptions once again so will monitor it for a while.

Gearbox mounts and gearbox oil is next for me I think.

[dstrickland]

Originally Posted by aymen_a22

Latest update:

I replaced the coil pack in cylinder number 1 (which had the error).

The misfire at low revs and high engine load seems to have gone. I have also cleared the adaptions once again so will monitor it for a while.

Gearbox mounts and gearbox oil is next for me I think.

Mine as we'll change the pan/filter as well. There only like $120.

[dstrickland]

Originally Posted by rjahl

I'm not sure you can completely turn of the DSC. Pushing the button only changes modes but it's still active.

I'm only saying this as I had a weird stutter at one time and I thought something was wrong with the car, turned out to be really crappy tires and no traction. The DME was seeing the wheel spin and cutting torque without the traction control light illuminating. Fixed it completely with better tires.

Somehow another you always end up being right. Even though I've gone through 3 sets of tires(I always by the same kind, cheap $80 goodyears), on my way to south GA I blew a rear, had them replace both tears with michellins, low & behold...the stutter is gone.

[rjahl]

Originally Posted by dstrickland

Somehow another you always end up being right. Even though I've gone through 3 sets of tires(I always by the same kind, cheap $80 goodyears), on my way to south GA I blew a rear, had them replace both tears with michellins, low & behold...the stutter is gone.

I'll take this conversation a little further for a laugh. The crappy tires I wrote about were Good Year Eagles. They seemed to get harder with age and couldn't find the pavement no matter what tire pressure you ran. There did have good tread wear, I manage about 40,000 miles on one set.

I'm a high mileage commuter so soft sticky tires are not really an option. Finding a good balance is tough.

At least, my car had a square set up.