[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by Welcome to NBA Jam

Yes.

Outside of the extended drain interval, LL certification really just pertains to whether it's an oil formulated for gasoline , diesel, or is for fuel efficiency. If you're planning on changing your oil every 5,000 miles, you can pretty much use any 5w30, 0w30, 0w40, or 5w40 for gas engines that you'd like.

If I was doing 5,000 mile oil changes, I'd personally just use an API-certified conventional 5w30, but ideally you'd want to use a full synthetic.

No need to think too hard about it with short drain intervals, but the only important part is that it has that API certification.

Edit: added full synthetic suggestion.

First conventional oils, now edited to any "full" synthetic. Curious, how do you define that?
heard of hths viscosity?

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

First conventional oils, now edited to any "full" synthetic. Curious, how do you define that?
heard of hths viscosity?

He's kinda right. Depends on application. Everyone ignores application and argue their own opinion...

If all you do is daily drive back and fourth to work, and you stay out of boost/high load, then yeah just about any api cert oil will work fine. You'll benefit more from running a thinner than recommended oil for the economy benefits.

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

He's kinda right. Depends on application. Everyone ignores application and argue their own opinion...

If all you do is daily drive back and fourth to work, and you stay out of boost/high load, then yeah just about any api cert oil will work fine. You'll benefit more from running a thinner than recommended oil for the economy benefits.

Kinda right?
Stay out of boost? Fuel economy? Ops original question was nothing about that. Application? Its a freaking turbocharged app. Why even drive that car?

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

Kinda right?
Stay out of boost? Fuel economy? Ops original question was nothing about that. Application? Its a freaking turbocharged app. Why even drive that car?

Hey I was just trying to point out that application matters when discussing these things

My own recommendation was stick to ll-01 and I even pointed out that the other popular choice of non-ll01 oil (mobil 1) is actually pretty crappy. The results of the new mobile 1 formula aren't looking too good.

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

First conventional oils, now edited to any "full" synthetic. Curious, how do you define that?

Do you not know the difference between conventional, synthetic blend, and full synthetic oils? It's pretty well-defined. No, I didn't suggest "any" synthetic. I still stand that conventional oils can last 5,000 miles, as the data absolutely suggests it. You should stop listening to people at Jiffy Lube and in Amazon customer review comments if you think otherwise.

[JETmn]

Originally Posted by Welcome to NBA Jam

Do you not know the difference between conventional, synthetic blend, and full synthetic oils? It's pretty well-defined. No, I didn't suggest "any" synthetic. I still stand that conventional oils can last 5,000 miles, as the data absolutely suggests it. You should stop listening to people at Jiffy Lube and in Amazon customer review comments if you think otherwise.

He is probably wondering which synthetic stock you consider "full" synthetic. Some don't consider cracked base stock as a full synthetic even though it is advertised as such (group 3 vs group 4). And you are the one that keeps editing your comments, so you shouldn't be trying to attack others...

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...il-technology-

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Originally Posted by JETmn

He is probably wondering which synthetic stock you consider "full" synthetic. Some don't consider cracked base stock as a full synthetic even though it is advertised as such (group 3 vs group 4). And you are the one that keeps editing your comments, so you shouldn't be trying to attack others...

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...il-technology-

I edited the post because I agree with the notion that a full synthetic is an ideal choice for our engines, and would like to include that information in case someone comes across it. I stated that I edited the post because I am more than happy to admit when I am either incorrect or have a changed my opinion as a result of information from others. I simply consider changing a more expensive oil more frequently an illogical choice when our cars are equipped with both an oil cooler and an electric water pump; however, there is nothing mechanically wrong with more frequent changes.

At the end of the day, it's everyone's choice to do as they wish with their car, and they can base it on any opinion that they'd like. This happens to be my opinion, and those are the reasons behind it. It's really not that big of a deal.

I'm not going out of my way to attack others, I'm responding to one; such is the way oil threads tend to go. It's useless for me to continue any further discussion at this point.

[flexinator]

Easy boys this is here to share information so we can learn from one another. It's apparent that our cars need only long life approved oil's even for short change intervals. And I've read and learned Castrol 0W 30 and 0W 40 are among the best options. Mobile 0W 40 is no longer long life approved for good reasons- used oil analysis after only 5000 miles indicates the oil does not hold up well. If you guys know about synthetic oil grades please post here or provide links to other sites like Bob is the oil guy. There are well informed the users there and lots and lots of good information check out the virgin and used oil analysis.

Make sure you choose the right (German) Castrol Oil: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...l_)#Post718643

BMW Oil Specs: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...cs#Post4306564

[STR8-6IX]

Originally Posted by flexinator

After some research and bobistheoilguy help it's clear I'll only be using LL01 castrol oil. Even with 5k oil changes it's apparent our n55 engines like German castrol. Make sure the castrol you put in is the European formula and LL01 approved.

Originally Posted by flexinator

That's why German Castrol is the way to go. There is no substitute for these engines.

Castrol oil is more prone to fuel shearing over the long run. change ever 5000 miles.

oils like Motul, Liqui moly, and shell rotella t6 are much stronger to fuel shearing and protect your engine better in the long run