[tomgwuyn]

Hi,

In my hunt for a 335i, filtered down these two but unsure of which one to go to . Need your valuable inputs.

2010 335i (N54) 50k Miles 2 prev owners Sport package, Manual transmission - 17000$ . Sold through a BMW dealer. (the HPFP /Turbos/Fuel Injectors were not replaced and no major service history). The dealer is willing to reduce to 16K max.

2011 335i (N55) 68k Miles 2 prev owners Sport package, Manual transmission - 18000$ . Non negotiable. Sold through a Ford dealer.

Which one will you suggest ? I am not a DIY'er and not planning to heavily mod it . May be very little and that too not immediately. Considering the maintenance/reliability issues of these engines, I want to purchase a warranty program too. Which program is highly recommended and will cover the maximum damage/preventive maintenance? My daily commute is around 55 miles per day. The main reason I am buying it is because of the fun factor in 335i. I almost bought a 09 328i manual but went against it in the last minute to go for the 335i after I test drove a 335i.

[Unknown_Car]

N54

[robthewrench]

I would recommend the 2011 N55 since you state not DIY and no plans for heavy mods. The 2010 could be in slightly better mechanical condition since it is being sold by a BMW dealer who could give it a better look for mechanical issues.

The N54 will have more issues long term as compared to the N55. Neither will be Honda / Toyota reliable. The N54 has more power potential, but this does not seem to be your main area of interest.

The N54 will have injector and fuel system issues, possible turbo waste gate issues, and carbon build up issues. The N55 will not have these. The N55 will have the same issues as the N54 for leaking gaskets, waterpump failure, belt tensioner, etc...

You'll have to look at the cost / condition value for each one separately. My recommendation is only based on the general history of each model. The 2011 N55 could be in horrible condition have been treated poorly by a former owner. If this is the case, you should search for a different 2011.

[CantCatchMe]

Originally Posted by robthewrench

I would recommend the 2011 N55 since you state not DIY and no plans for heavy mods. The 2010 could be in slightly better mechanical condition since it is being sold by a BMW dealer who could give it a better look for mechanical issues.

The N54 will have more issues long term as compared to the N55. Neither will be Honda / Toyota reliable. The N54 has more power potential, but this does not seem to be your main area of interest.

The N54 will have injector and fuel system issues, possible turbo waste gate issues, and carbon build up issues. The N55 will not have these. The N55 will have the same issues as the N54 for leaking gaskets, waterpump failure, belt tensioner, etc...

You'll have to look at the cost / condition value for each one separately. My recommendation is only based on the general history of each model. The 2011 N55 could be in horrible condition have been treated poorly by a former owner. If this is the case, you should search for a different 2011.

+1

[ronjonsoflo]

You need to learn how to negotiate, seriously.

[Cory S]

N55.

[Indyeah]

Hahaha 'non-negotiable'. Give me a break man. That price is laughable. There was a 335i on here for sale, loaded, m-sport body, 6MT, 11k original miles for cheaper than that. You are getting taken for a ride my friend. Tell those guys to stick it where the sun don't shine and shop around some more. Go see what your 18k will get you on the private seller market

[John 070]

I prefer the N54 myself, but since you are not modding and not going to DIY, I'd lean towards the N55, but, if not negotiable, no thanks. HPFP has to have been done, it was a recall and required. Turbos, of course not, but they are not the end of the world anymore like they once were, and if through a dealer and you can agree on the price, I'd rather go through a dealer. I have only purchased one used car that cost real money ($14k) in my life, and when a door actuator was broken ($860 job at the dealer) and I discovered the brakes pulsated, they fixed them goodwill no charge. And, by law, since purchased in NYS, there was a very short warranty on the powertrain. If you can get just under private party retail, from a new car dealer, that would be my strategy.

in your case, given only the two choices, I'd go N54.

[tomgwuyn]

Originally Posted by John 070

I prefer the N54 myself, but since you are not modding and not going to DIY, I'd lean towards the N55, but, if not negotiable, no thanks. HPFP has to have been done, it was a recall and required. Turbos, of course not, but they are not the end of the world anymore like they once were, and if through a dealer and you can agree on the price, I'd rather go through a dealer. I have only purchased one used car that cost real money ($14k) in my life, and when a door actuator was broken ($860 job at the dealer) and I discovered the brakes pulsated, they fixed them goodwill no charge. And, by law, since purchased in NYS, there was a very short warranty on the powertrain.

in your case, given only the two choices, I'd go N54.

Thanks. What should I quote for the N54? And can I buy the extended warranty program from BMW itself ?

[John 070]

Originally Posted by tomgwuyn

Thanks. What should I quote for the N54? And can I buy the extended warranty program from BMW itself ?

See, I don't know what the private party retail is.....but say they told you already, we can go down to $16k, and that's it. There's still a little if you're ready to buy.

My new strategy that I will use on my next used car, is to list out potential problems. I don't care, that's up to me. One salesman got all philosophical, "Let us deal with what is now, not what might be." HUH??!!

I said, this car has 89k and needs a timing belt at 90k, so are you going to do it. haha

So they're at $16k, we know there's a little more. I'd say, "Yeah, I like this car, but my buddy told me his DSC Hydro failed, and the dealer wanted $4,200 to fix. If that's not been fixed on this car, I'd need another $2k off, unless you want to include it with the car."

(That is a known issue, the ABS trifecta, you can DIY for maybe $400)

They won't want to take $4k off, and they may not want $2k off, but I bet $1200-$1500 maybe....

p.s. since you're in NYS, I think @ 50k you get a 2 mo., 2k powertrain warranty by law....so drive the **** out of it the first month, or at least prior to 2 mos. expiring....

[tomgwuyn]

Originally Posted by John 070

See, I don't know what the private party retail is.....but say they told you already, we can go down to $16k, and that's it. There's still a little if you're ready to buy.

My new strategy that I will use on my next used car, is to list out potential problems. I don't care, that's up to me. One salesman got all philosophical, "Let us deal with what is now, not what might be." HUH??!!

I said, this car has 89k and needs a timing belt at 90k, so are you going to do it. haha

So they're at $16k, we know there's a little more. I'd say, "Yeah, I like this car, but my buddy told me his DSC Hydro failed, and the dealer wanted $4,200 to fix. If that's not been fixed on this car, I'd need another $2k off, unless you want to include it with the car."

(That is a known issue, the ABS trifecta, you can DIY for maybe $400)

They won't want to take $4k off, and they may not want $2k off, but I bet $1200-$1500 maybe....

p.s. since you're in NYS, I think @ 50k you get a 2 mo., 2k powertrain warranty by law....so drive the **** out of it the first month, or at least prior to 2 mos. expiring....

Got it. Will try my luck.

[John 070]

Originally Posted by tomgwuyn

Got it. Will try my luck.

Another thing you could do is mention the water pump and thermostat. Nobody knows when it's going to need replacement, could be 50k, could be 80k, could be 120k. That's $1400. My point is I'm the buyer, I can be concerned with it if I want. Whereas the salesperson may say let's not worry about it until it happens (yeah, after you own the car and are back to have the work done)....say I'm ready to buy, but I'm concerned about the ABS pump and the water pump, both of these add up to $5,600 at the dealer, so take off 1/2 of that!

[tomgwuyn]

Originally Posted by John 070

Another thing you could do is mention the water pump and thermostat. Nobody knows when it's going to need replacement, could be 50k, could be 80k, could be 120k. That's $1400. My point is I'm the buyer, I can be concerned with it if I want. Whereas the salesperson may say let's not worry about it until it happens (yeah, after you own the car and are back to have the work done)....say I'm ready to buy, but I'm concerned about the ABS pump and the water pump, both of these add up to $5,600 at the dealer, so take off 1/2 of that!

Thanks John. Will keep this page posted on the updates.

[Johnny Boost]

I would go with the n54 since it has lower mileage but get an aftermarket warranty since nothing has been replaced.

[delmarco]

Originally Posted by ronjonsoflo

You need to learn how to negotiate, seriously.

I would go with N55 for a safer bet.

But the N54 would be more fun to mod and chip out.

[Bimmer 808]

Originally Posted by tomgwuyn

Hi,

Which one will you suggest ? I am not a DIY'er and not planning to heavily mod it . May be very little and that too not immediately.

You will become a DIY'er and you will heavily mod it. GLWP.

[STR8-6IX]

first of, dont listen to all the idiots telling you to buy the N54 without giving you any sort of reasons other then the "street cred" it has.

if you're not looking to heavily modify, N55.

if the N55 doesnt have anything replaced like the N54, then It doesnt matter which one you choose. test drive both, pick the one in better condition or the one you get a better deal on. but generally, I'd recommend the n55.

[Ozzie335i]

What colors are they? As Wes Snipes once said, "Always bet on black."

Or blue.

[9krpmrx8]

2011 335i owner here, coming up on 80k (been driving it a shit ton). Other than regular maintenance I have had no real issues aside from a wheel bearing that was replaced under warranty, a faulty rear parking sensor, and a cracked coolant reservoir. I do have a new starter (occasional long crank), coils, plugs, and serpentine belt kit on hand to install soon though as preventive maintenance.

Most of the N54 guys in our local club with similar mileage to my car, have had all the normal N54 issues such as injectors, HPFP, water pump, etc. And my good buddy just did all that and then his turbos started smoking (past the turbo warranty too). He has owned a couple of N54 cars and so he was prepared but replacing the turbos is a bitch and costly, especially if you are paying a shop to do it.

Oh and also check for leaks, the oil pan gasket is a also kind of a bitch to replace. And at this mileage plan on a trans fluid swap (300.00 if you do it yourself).

[tomgwuyn]

Originally Posted by Ozzie335i

What colors are they? As Wes Snipes once said, "Always bet on black."

Or blue.

2010 is Blue with saddle brown interior.

2011 is also blue with black interior.