[Lewis Cosgrove]

After driving 10+ miles

Chain of events:

Felt a serious lack of power.
Noticed that the radiator fan was on and loud.
Yellow coolant warning light.
Red coolant warning light and limp mode.

Pulled over at the side of the road:

The engine bay didn't seem that hot for driving 10 miles
The big coolant hoses at the front on the bay were only warm.
The coolant level was OK, no visible leaks.
Scanned for codes using MHD, 2E81 and 2E82.
Cleared codes and drove 1 miles home.

After letting it cool down in my garage for 1 hour:

On cold start the fan starts blaring after 10 seconds and stays on.

Is this a dead WP or just a faulty TS? How can it be failed pump if the engine is colder than usual when I pulled over at the side of the road after driving 10 miles? Should it not be extremely hot? Has the TS failed open?

Bit confused, just don't want to pay the money for a pump if its just the thermostat.

Thanks guys!

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by Lewis Cosgrove

After driving 10+ miles

Chain of events:

Felt a serious lack of power.
Noticed that the radiator fan was on and loud.
Yellow coolant warning light.
Red coolant warning light and limp mode.

Pulled over at the side of the road:

The engine bay didn't seem that hot for driving 10 miles
The big coolant hoses at the front on the bay were only warm.
The coolant level was OK, no visible leaks.
Scanned for codes using MHD, 2E81 and 2E82.
Cleared codes and drove 1 miles home.

After letting it cool down in my garage for 1 hour:

On cold start the fan starts blaring after 10 seconds and stays on.

Is this a dead WP or just a faulty TS? How can it be failed pump if the engine is colder than usual when I pulled over at the side of the road after driving 10 miles? Should it not be extremely hot? Has the TS failed open?

Bit confused, just don't want to pay the money for a pump if its just the thermostat.

Thanks guys!

Whether it's one or the other doesn't matter, you want to replace both at the same time.

[terryd5150]

Originally Posted by Jklad

Whether it's one or the other doesn't matter, you want to replace both at the same time.

^^ THIS ^^

[dyezak]

It's a dead water pump. Your hoses weren't hot because they didn't have water flowing through them...all the hot water was stagnant in the engine itself.

But the other 2 people are correct, you should replace them together anyhow.

[NoQuarter]

Agree with everyone here.

[Lewis Cosgrove]

Thats the water pump/TS on order, I done the bleed procedure to test the pump and it was making clicking noises and no fluid was flowing into the coolant reservoir.

N54 when its working =

N54 when its doing the usual =

[STR8-6IX]

Originally Posted by Lewis Cosgrove

After driving 10+ miles

Chain of events:

Felt a serious lack of power.
Noticed that the radiator fan was on and loud.
Yellow coolant warning light.
Red coolant warning light and limp mode.

Pulled over at the side of the road:

The engine bay didn't seem that hot for driving 10 miles
The big coolant hoses at the front on the bay were only warm.
The coolant level was OK, no visible leaks.
Scanned for codes using MHD, 2E81 and 2E82.
Cleared codes and drove 1 miles home.

After letting it cool down in my garage for 1 hour:

On cold start the fan starts blaring after 10 seconds and stays on.

Is this a dead WP or just a faulty TS? How can it be failed pump if the engine is colder than usual when I pulled over at the side of the road after driving 10 miles? Should it not be extremely hot? Has the TS failed open?

Bit confused, just don't want to pay the money for a pump if its just the thermostat.

Thanks guys!

May as well change both while you're in there

[ATLIEN]

Yep, water pump time. I did mine in my garage a few weeks ago on ramps. Not too terrible of a job if you take your time.

[dj_aj]

So I've had a Thermostat error for quite sometime now. I believe the thermostat has been stuck open and other than the occasional error code and the longer time to heat up the engine, it has been running fine.

I haven't opted to touch it yet for the fear of changing it and somehow aggravating the water pump which as of now is working fine.

So my question is, should I ride this out or is there a way I can check to see if the water pump is on its way out?

[NoQuarter]

Originally Posted by dj_aj

So I've had a Thermostat error for quite sometime now. I believe the thermostat has been stuck open and other than the occasional error code and the longer time to heat up the engine, it has been running fine.

I haven't opted to touch it yet for the fear of changing it and somehow aggravating the water pump which as of now is working fine.

So my question is, should I ride this out or is there a way I can check to see if the water pump is on its way out?

See post #6