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Help with upgrading subwoofer amp
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05-29-2017, 09:27 AM | #1 |
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Help with upgrading subwoofer amp
Hi all, so I'm currently running a single 12" powered by a JL Audio JX360/2 amp. The sub is rated at 400 Watt optimal, 1200W max. The amp puts out 360W RMS @ 4ohms. The amp is currently dying so I'm looking to upgrade. The sub gets plenty loud as it is, would I benefit at all from getting an amp with more watts?
I just ordered a JL RD1000/1 amp that does 600W RMS @ 4ohms. Will this do anything to increase the travel of the sub vs 360W? (ie harder hitting bass) or does more Watts in this case only give the ability to go louder? (which I don't necessarily need). Should I try to cancel that order and get an XD600/1v2, 400W RMS @ 4ohms instead? I would save $80 for the price of the amp and $25 on a larger gauge wiring kit, plus the time to swap out the wires. Last edited by Intotheblue; 05-29-2017 at 09:33 AM.. |
05-29-2017, 10:05 AM | #2 |
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Why is you amp having issues? Do you have it wired properly (correct size power and ground)? Do you have the sub wired to the proper load? Gains set too high? Typically, amps need something done incorrectly to "be on the way out".
To answer your questions, the 1000/1 will be too much on a 400w sub if you abuse it. You dod not mention the brand or model of the sub but a 400w sub from company A is not the same as a 400w sub from company B. Harder hitting bass will have more to do with the enclosure type and tuning.
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2009 335i Saphire Black M Sport "Leopold" Cobb stage 2 aggressive tune, Mishimoto FMIC, Cobb charge pipe, Cobb catted down pipes, Forge diverter valves, BMS inlets and DCI, Cyba scoops and M Individual Audio retrofit and M3 gauge cluster retrofit. 2011 328i Titan Silver M Sport "Franzel" <--Wife's car |
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05-29-2017, 10:16 AM | #3 |
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I've had the JL 360/2 for 2 years now, and now the sub volume will randomly dip on occasion. I never mounted it in the best spot so it would overheat and go into protect mode once in a while when I pushed it hard for an hour, so I'm pretty sure it's just dying at this point.
I have a shallow mount Pioneer 12", TS-SW3002S4. Pretty decently reviewed for a cheap sub. So would you recommend I save some money and just do the JL XD600/1v2? The thing I like about the RD1000/1 is that it has a clipping LED to help you establish the max gain/input sensitivity, which should help protect the sub giving it 200 more Watts. |
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05-29-2017, 11:32 AM | #4 | |
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Quote:
I have an XD 600/1 that I am not using as it does not compaire to the prime. I do like JL, don't think I don't as I am running a xd1000/5 in my E87 and just ordered a 10w6v3 to run on it. I just think you can save a bit of cash and still come out a winner. Also in your first post what were you saying about upgrading your wires? If you are running at least 4gauge you should be fine with most amps.
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2009 118i Monaco Blue "Maximillion"
2009 335i Saphire Black M Sport "Leopold" Cobb stage 2 aggressive tune, Mishimoto FMIC, Cobb charge pipe, Cobb catted down pipes, Forge diverter valves, BMS inlets and DCI, Cyba scoops and M Individual Audio retrofit and M3 gauge cluster retrofit. 2011 328i Titan Silver M Sport "Franzel" <--Wife's car |
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05-29-2017, 02:53 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
I already purchased a new RD1000/1 on ebay for a great price but was debating cancelling. I'm going to stick with it, especially since it has a clipping indicator, which should keep me within sane limits for the sub. |
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05-29-2017, 03:19 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
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2009 118i Monaco Blue "Maximillion"
2009 335i Saphire Black M Sport "Leopold" Cobb stage 2 aggressive tune, Mishimoto FMIC, Cobb charge pipe, Cobb catted down pipes, Forge diverter valves, BMS inlets and DCI, Cyba scoops and M Individual Audio retrofit and M3 gauge cluster retrofit. 2011 328i Titan Silver M Sport "Franzel" <--Wife's car |
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05-30-2017, 11:24 PM | #7 |
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OP - this article should help you with setting your gain properly.
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-XObF9X...fier-gain.html |
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