[Persian Whisperjet]

My 2011 335d turns over 100K next week when I get home from Afghanistan. Love this car and want to keep it to 200K.

All oil and filter changes are being done according to an accelerated schedule, to include ATF/filter, brake fluid, rear diff, and power steering.

Car is illiterate, harmonic balancer replaced at 75K. Switched to Koni FSDs a year ago.

Question: When it comes to preventive maintenance which (if any) would folks prioritize:

- Thermostat (original works fine)

- Giubo (original)

- Coolant (never changed)

- Motor mounts

- Something else

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

[rulonger]

Vacuum lines

[Torqu3]

Mine just hit 100k 2 days ago. I bought it just over a year ago at 71k. At your mileage I would do the following, in this order, assuming they haven't been done before/recently. Of course, you can judge the condition of most of these better than me.

Engine Oil and Filter
Air filter(Both Engine and Cabin)
Fuel Filter
Transmission Fluid and Filter(I do mine every 50k or so)
Differential Fluid
Brakes(Rotors, Pads, Fluid)
Vacuum lines
Thermostat
Motor Mounts

I wouldn't bother with a full coolant change. On our cars it doesn't really go bad. I have no idea about the giubo. Some say it's bad. I have never had problems. Otherwise, if it moves it's probably a good idea to replace/service it. I also have a good contact for Stoptech rotors and Hawk Pads for pretty cheap. Message me if you want them.

[Thecastle]

I'll offer a different opinion, on preventative (key word) maintenance.

Coolant I would do as Ethylene glycol is very chemically reactive and has a tendency to gel overtime and clog passages. Its pretty easy and cheap to change, my chemistry friends replace theirs every 2 years and do a flush with dish soap to break down any build up.

I don't think replacing the thermostat is a bad idea given its prone to failure, especially if your doing a coolant flush. I've flushed mine, and replaced all fluids, ATF (fluid/filter), Diff, power steering, etc. All of them have a finite lifetime.

Guibo's don't fail too often but if you change it replace the rear drive shaft bearing while your at it.

Your suspension will need a refresh, its bushings are probably shot at 100K

heater control valve maybe good to replace

belts if you haven't and inspect cooling hoses. They shouldn't be too soft.

Vacuum lines

Motor mounts are probably done

Good Vinyl shop to repair any interior damage. Yes, the plastic can be repaired good as new.

How do you like your Koni FSDs? I have them as well.

[335dlci]

How are FSD? May switch from stock. Found them to possibly suit my needs. No one mentioned the crank pulley

[dmanb2b]

Originally Posted by 335dlci

How are FSD? May switch from stock. Found them to possibly suit my needs. No one mentioned the crank pulley

I am on Koni Yellow and love them.

[Persian Whisperjet]

Originally Posted by 335dlci

How are FSD? May switch from stock. Found them to possibly suit my needs. No one mentioned the crank pulley

Very happy with the FSDs. For me the acid test is picking up my daughter at school in Georgetown every day. There is a two-block stretch of cobblestone roads with almost no traffic where I gun it up to 40 and the car just floats along, kind of like a Citroen I once owned.

I like that the FSDs do not lower the car, given the urban combat dimension of D.C. roads.

Other than that I rarely track the car so it is hard for me to compare to, say, B6/B8 or Ohlins.

[Thecastle]

Originally Posted by 335dlci

How are FSD? May switch from stock. Found them to possibly suit my needs. No one mentioned the crank pulley

I have the FSD's as well. Switched to them in 2015 and now have about 30K miles on them. They were worth while and a big improvement over stock. They eliminated the pot hole explosions I used to get. In fact they work so well at soaking up bumps I some how manged to bend both front rims and never noticed....

They also offer firmer dampening than stock and have significantly less body roll, and less bouncy over big dips. So really best of both worlds, significant ride improvement, and more dampening on big hits. Man the car used to be bouncy over big freeway dips.

However, I've ridden with Ohlins R&T equipped cars. They are significantly better than the FSD's for 3x the price...... Not sure they are worth 3x the price... But they have better dampening than the FSD's so the FSD's can still feel under damped at high speeds (90mph+) (probably more bushings than anything), and the ohlins didn't show that bad habit albeit on the smooth roads of i-10. I find the FSD's don't offer quite as much dampening as the car needs at high speeds, but they are a big upgrade over stock.