[Robimplicit]

Hi:
Very interested in the 335d. Formerly owned a Golf TDI, which i liked a lot. My plan would be to buy a sub-85,000 mile car and perform the deletes and other maintenance to get it in a good shape.
Based on my limited knowledge, it seems the EGR, valve cleaning, swirl flap removal, DPF, and SCR system need to be addressed. And, maybe the harmonic balancer and vacuum hoses?

Any advice on how to approach evaluating this car used when shopping? What to look for; what to avoid, etc?

Also, good service, tuning shops? i know about fixmyvw. i live in southwest Ohio.
Thanks!
-Robert.

[Torqu3]

Join the North American 335d and X5d owners group on Facebook. There are a few for sale right now.

[BB_cuda]

You have the big picture pretty well. Lower level would be NOx sensors nuisance but if you're deleting SCR, that goes away too. You need to ask when fuel filter was changed and get evidence of this. Dealer is supposed to change it every 3rd oil change when in the free maintenance period. I got only one freebie FF as i didn't drive but 33,000 miles during 1st 4 years. 4 years is duration of free maintenance period.

At 85,000 miles its likely the battery is about to go if it hadn't been changed yet. BMWs require battery registration which in essence is telling the car that battery is new and it charges a little differently than an older one. There are scads of threads on battery registration. People will argue until the cows come home about "not doing" and attest that they were fine. If the battery has been changed, you might see if it was properly registered but i have no clue how one would do this.

Most important thing i can advise is to read the car for codes before buying it. You can install software onto your phone to read these codes but you will need a OBD plug into the port. Many many threads on this too. Since you are a former TDI person, i presume you know this frontwards and backwards.

Inspect the red hose coming off the turbo going into the intercooler. This often leaks and gets oil mess all over it. I have changed this seal once and it appears to be needing it again. People change this hose over to an aftermarket one called Forge. Some have also complained that the Forge hose is a bit too short. The real problem with the OEM red hose is the truely shitty seal fitting on the top side of the hose. One guy took the fitting off the forge hose and transplanted it onto the OEM red hose to have the proper length of the OEM hose but amputate its stupid clip connector thing.

I'm sure i have left off several gotchas that others will address shortly. Welcome to out little club.

[Torqu3]

Also, there is a sticky thread that discusses some of these things as well. Check it it: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1327298

Also, here is a link to my massive thread on everything you need to know once you buy the car: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1334283

[JuiceQuadre]

Its more after you bought it but: Make sure thermostats are working (there are 2).. Also you might think about changing the transmission fluid around that mileage.. Bmw says its lifetime but its really not

[kydiesel35]

Ohiodiesel

This is all you need bro.

[powellrm]

mine is for sale. what are you looking for?

89k miles. black/saddle brown combo. non sport package *gasp!*. BPC 2+ tune.

[Mrdeezy]

buy mine please

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by JuiceQuadre

Its more after you bought it but: Make sure thermostats are working (there are 2).. Also you might think about changing the transmission fluid around that mileage.. Bmw says its lifetime but its really not

Juice, our North American ones only have one thermostat. We don't have a T/S on our EGR cooler, only the engine coolant T/S.

OP, still follow his advice as if coolant temp goes too low, DPF regens will not run right. Many of us have experienced the T/S to slowly degrade and reduce the operating temp of the coolant. Mine crept down to the mid 70C range. The normal temp for an undeleted car is 88C. A deleted but with new T/S car will operate about 85-86C. The missing EGR cooler isn't dumping heat into the coolant is reason for slight decrease.

[Robimplicit]

Thanks to everyone who contributed advice and information. Very much appreciate the help.
-Robert.

[Robimplicit]

Bought a car this past week; quicker than I thought. 2011 with 60,xxx miles for a good price (I think). One owner car maintained until recently at a BMW dealer. i called the service dept there and the guy reviewed all their records with me over the phone. Aside from oil changes, it seemed most service was related to replacement of pollution-control hardware with carbon blasting and replacing injectors (#2 twice and #1 and #3). Also, the battery was replaced.
Considering BPC and fixmyvw for the service/tuning. Any thoughts about these options?
-Robert.

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by Robimplicit

Bought a car this past week; quicker than I thought. 2011 with 60,xxx miles for a good price (I think). One owner car maintained until recently at a BMW dealer. i called the service dept there and the guy reviewed all their records with me over the phone. Aside from oil changes, it seemed most service was related to replacement of pollution-control hardware with carbon blasting and replacing injectors (#2 twice and #1 and #3). Also, the battery was replaced.
Considering BPC and fixmyvw for the service/tuning. Any thoughts about these options?
-Robert.

Welcome! Please read this thread: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1334283

Everyone has their own loyalties to either BPC or JR tuning. They're both great! I personally use FixMyVW for eeverything and am extremely satisfied.

[MooLard]

I was in a similar situ to you, had run up sky high miles in my previous Audi A4 1.9 tdi Quattro and wanted a 35d again, I had a 535d a while back and I was a rocket with armchairs inside!
The 335d I bought is the lowest ever mileage car I’ve bought with 70k miles on at the time and was a secondary car to a doctor, win! The only minor thing it needed was a unshaped turbo oil feed pipe, only a minor leak but thankfully it is the easiest of them all to access.
All the best on your searching, as long as you can’t see anything major that is on its way out then hopefully all will be good.
My previous 535d had a hard life and within half a year I needed a new torque converter, the car felt like a lemon due to that expense but guess these things happen.

[AlpineX]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Juice, our North American ones only have one thermostat. We don't have a T/S on our EGR cooler, only the engine coolant T/S.

OP, still follow his advice as if coolant temp goes too low, DPF regens will not run right. Many of us have experienced the T/S to slowly degrade and reduce the operating temp of the coolant. Mine crept down to the mid 70C range. The normal temp for an undeleted car is 88C. A deleted but with new T/S car will operate about 85-86C. The missing EGR cooler isn't dumping heat into the coolant is reason for slight decrease.

There is also a thermostat on the transmission heat exchanger. Someone please correct me if e90 does not have trans heat exchanger like e70.
i didn't do both and now want/need to go back in. Bummer.
Euro models have a thermostat related to egr that US spec cars so not have.

Also, as the thermostat fails open the first foe is your glow plug$ running constantly (warm up mode) combined with over injection below 75*. As the engine ruins lower and lower temp (with extra soot from over injection) your DPF will have to work harder. Supposedly in the low 60*S the DPF won't regenerate (trying to find source) and repair bills skyrocket.

[henri777]

I ordered a 2006 e91 330xd from Germany, which had 100% covered check book, the car has no problems at all right now.
I am going to let the big things to do, timing chain, gearbox flush and oil change etc to keep it running well and strong.

I suggest, when you go try the car yourself, as it has two turbos, check and listen carefully any noises, vibrations, windows down slow drive, acceleration.