[SnapCoupe]

Hey guys. Im planning on throwing the M3 control arm upgrade kit on in the Spring while i'm installing coilovers. I have been trying to figure out which kit to get though, and if there are any differences. The FCP Euro kit is $330 and the OEM kit is $500-something. What is the difference between the two kits? Are the materials the same? Would it be worth the extra $200 or so to get the OEM kit?

Thanks.

[tlow98]

OE kit has "m" stamped on it. The other has "m" scratched off. They're the same part, but for marketing reasons, they cannot be sold as the same part.

Get the FCP kit.

[IllSic_Design]

TRW is the oe manufacture for the OEM BMW arms, on their part they grind off the BMW logo(you can see it ground down) and they sell for much cheaper than OEM.

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

TRW is the oe manufacture for the OEM BMW arms, on their part they grind off the BMW logo(you can see it ground down) and they sell for much cheaper than OEM.

Thanks for the clarification guys. I wasn't sure if they were from the same manufacturer or not. Ill go with the FCP in this case.

[Mark M]

FCP is great. Later when the bushings wear you can exchange for new for free.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

Hey guys. Im planning on throwing the M3 control arm upgrade kit on in the Spring while i'm installing coilovers. I have been trying to figure out which kit to get though, and if there are any differences. The FCP Euro kit is $330 and the OEM kit is $500-something. What is the difference between the two kits? Are the materials the same? Would it be worth the extra $200 or so to get the OEM kit?

Thanks.

Why coil overs? Are you planning on tracking the car? If not, I'd suggest Bilstein B8 shocks & struts or B12 lowering kit coupled with Hotchkiss adjustable swaybar links. Even with the B12 setup, you could track the car.

M3 control arms made be TRW are the exact same arms put on the M3. They literally scratch off the "M" logo on the TRW arm. It's a hoot to be honest

Also, consider the front & rear kit. You get four, M3 control arms for the rear. You should also consider new tie rods, if you are over 100k. Lemforder is the OEM provider for this part.

Eventually, you will want to change out the bushings in the rear subframe, but that's another seminar

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Why coil overs? Are you planning on tracking the car? If not, I'd suggest Bilstein B8 shocks & struts or B12 lowering kit coupled with Hotchkiss adjustable swaybar links. Even with the B12 setup, you could track the car.

M3 control arms made be TRW are the exact same arms put on the M3. They literally scratch off the "M" logo on the TRW arm. It's a hoot to be honest

Also, consider the front & rear kit. You get four, M3 control arms for the rear. You should also consider new tie rods, if you are over 100k. Lemforder is the OEM provider for this part.

Eventually, you will want to change out the bushings in the rear subframe, but that's another seminar

The car will see a few track events this season, but not many. The goal with this car is a street oriented build. That being said, I wanted to go with coilovers for the ride height adjustability as I will be messing about with a few different wheel/tire setups and would like to see if I can get 275's in the rear without rolling fenders.

I plan on getting the rear situated all at once. Diff/subframe bushings/trailing arms/swaybar. That was going to be a project for next winter as most of my funds are going towards a house soon.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

The car will see a few track events this season, but not many. The goal with this car is a street oriented build. That being said, I wanted to go with coilovers for the ride height adjustability as I will be messing about with a few different wheel/tire setups and would like to see if I can get 275's in the rear without rolling fenders.

I plan on getting the rear situated all at once. Diff/subframe bushings/trailing arms/swaybar. That was going to be a project for next winter as most of my funds are going towards a house soon.

If street oriented, consider M3 subframe & Diff bushings vs poly. Poly is really stiff and should be used for cars that track. If this is your DD and you track the car once in a while, M3 subframe & Diff bushings are what you should be using. At least that's how it was explained to me by both the folks at ECS Tuning & FCP Euro.

If you stop to think about it, the e90 M3 is legendary at Nuremburg. You would be installing the same subframe bushings & Diff Bushings that are in that exact same car.

Just my 2 cents

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

If street oriented, consider M3 subframe & Diff bushings vs poly. Poly is really stiff and should be used for cars that track. If this is your DD and you track the car once in a while, M3 subframe & Diff bushings are what you should be using. At least that's how it was explained to me by both the folks at ECS Tuning & FCP Euro.

If you stop to think about it, the e90 M3 is legendary at Nuremburg. You would be installing the same subframe bushings & Diff Bushings that are in that exact same car.

Just my 2 cents

Thats the goal! Full M3 suspension conversion and coilovers. Though, I keep thinking to myself "why didn't I just get a M3 at this point?"

[justpete]

FYI, rear M3 arms are identical except for shape and material, no difference in handling at all. Save your money. Front control arms are worth it though.

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by justpete

FYI, rear M3 arms are identical except for shape and material, no difference in handling at all. Save your money. Front control arms are worth it though.

You don't think the better materials/shape helps with like deflection or anything? The non-m parts look awfully flimsy.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

You don't think the better materials/shape helps with like deflection or anything? The non-m parts look awfully flimsy.

No, there's a post somewhere on 1addicts where an extensive analysis was done including flex and stress to failure and the only difference is failure mechanism. Unless you're running R-Comps or race slicks and can manage 2+g on turns you really won't be stressing those arms enough to make any difference at all. At 1g on street tires? Absolutely zero difference.

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by justpete

No, there's a post somewhere on 1addicts where an extensive analysis was done including flex and stress to failure and the only difference is failure mechanism. Unless you're running R-Comps or race slicks and can manage 2+g on turns you really won't be stressing those arms enough to make any difference at all. At 1g on street tires? Absolutely zero difference.

Awesome, thanks for the info. I won't bother to worry about replacing them with M parts then.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

Awesome, thanks for the info. I won't bother to worry about replacing them with M parts then.

Cool, best of luck with your upgrade!

[ajsmithvmi]

Originally Posted by justpete

No, there's a post somewhere on 1addicts where an extensive analysis was done including flex and stress to failure and the only difference is failure mechanism. Unless you're running R-Comps or race slicks and can manage 2+g on turns you really won't be stressing those arms enough to make any difference at all. At 1g on street tires? Absolutely zero difference.

Here is that analysis:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1079383