[lab_rat]

Originally Posted by ubersteuer

For $10 it wasn't worth the hassle of potentially damaging the stock one trying to punch it out. If it was $100 or something, I'd test my luck.

It is, I pulled it from my a new one that's still in the package. I was on my phone when I posted in my cramped parts area of my garage.

Huge thanks for confirming the part number. And I'm also of the mindset upgrading to the OEM M part is the better choice over hacking up stock CDV. Plus the fact there is no "M tax" with the purchase of the part. A genuine win-win IMO.

OEM MPerformance parts without the M cost...

It's like finding an Easter egg in RealOEM.

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by lab_rat

My biggest question is does the 1M/M3 clutch valve possibly had a modified valve from the factory?

"M" clutch valve is same things as others, only it doesn't have the restricting element placed in it. Like already posted by others, if you get regular clutch delay valve of an E90, push out the restricting element inside with an allen key or back of a drill bit that fits in there, which is very easy to do, you will have the "M" clutch valve.

I had bought the "M" clutch valve few years back, that is how I know for certain. My purchase was useful though because the old one in the car came out with o-ring destroyed due to corrosion. I used the o-ring from the "M" version bought. If you are in the North and if you have metal not plastic connectors there you will have corrosion. Later years those may have been plastic, not sure though.

[desertman123]

I will say I've been running without any clutch valve at all for over 30k miles without a single issue.

Also I just got my M3 mounts in - pretty big difference tbh. The stock squishy mounts at 112k were chooched, so it was nice to retain some shifter feel.

Would recommend motor mounts as well. I just put Corteco OEM ones in there.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by lab_rat

Thanks so much for chiming in. Your experience with the mounts & CDV are another great set of recommendations/experiences to draw from.

I am setting my car up more for daily/weekend fun, less for track oriented....but still fun.

The upgrade plans are:
+1M/M3 CDV(?)
+E46 M3(?) or 335is(?) motor mounts
+front & rear suspension M3 arms
+3.64 rear diff w/Mfactory Helical LSD
+M3 subframe bushings
+Bilstein B8 struts/shocks
+BMW Performance springs
+BMW Performance brake kit
+APEX Arc8 18x9 et30 w/Michelin PS 255/30R18 (square fitment)

The BMW Performance brake kit is more of a "wow, I just gotta have it" item....but I don't care man...I just gotta have it.

FYI, the rear M3 suspension arms are no different from stock, save your money.

And BMW Performance brakes are the same as the brakes on the 135i and prone to the same piston nose failure mechanism. Turner sells a piston upgrade kit including seals and boots, highly recommended.

If you're going to spend the coin to change out the subframe bushings, get solid aluminum ones, no increase in NVH and handling is much improved over using M3 bushings.

Same comments about the LSD -- Diffs Online all the way, Dan'll make sure you get what you need. Buy once, cry once.

You'll need to roll and possibly pull front fenders with that fitment. Might need spacers to clear the strut using 9" wheels especially if you add camber beyond stock with the M3 arms. I'd recommend Vorshlag camber plates to replace the ancient stock strut tower mounts, they're quiet, last a long time, and tighten up steering considerably.

[Jimsbim]

PM sent to labrat

[E91WAG3N]

Originally Posted by desertman123

I will say I've been running without any clutch valve at all for over 30k miles without a single issue.

Also I just got my M3 mounts in - pretty big difference tbh. The stock squishy mounts at 112k were chooched, so it was nice to retain some shifter feel.

Would recommend motor mounts as well. I just put Corteco OEM ones in there.

The difference you felt is predominately due to the age/mileage on your originals, not the difference between a stock 1xx or 3xx vs. M3 unit. I still feel it was worth the money for a slightly upgraded feel on both my cars with half the mileage you have.

For the OP and others, I wouldn't anticipate motor mount wear that necessitates replacement until 100k plus territory, they'd be a good item to tackle when (not if!) your oil pan gasket needs to be replaced.

[lab_rat]

Originally Posted by justpete

FYI, the rear M3 suspension arms are no different from stock, save your money.

And BMW Performance brakes are the same as the brakes on the 135i and prone to the same piston nose failure mechanism. Turner sells a piston upgrade kit including seals and boots, highly recommended.

If you're going to spend the coin to change out the subframe bushings, get solid aluminum ones, no increase in NVH and handling is much improved over using M3 bushings.

Same comments about the LSD -- Diffs Online all the way, Dan'll make sure you get what you need. Buy once, cry once.

You'll need to roll and possibly pull front fenders with that fitment. Might need spacers to clear the strut using 9" wheels especially if you add camber beyond stock with the M3 arms. I'd recommend Vorshlag camber plates to replace the ancient stock strut tower mounts, they're quiet, last a long time, and tighten up steering considerably.

Thanks for your feedback - as well as everyone that contributed to the thread so far. There is quite a bit of first-hand experience/knowledge shared in the thread so far. Very much appreciated.

The BMW Performance brake kit I am mentioning for the 330i is https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...r/34110444769/.

After looking at the 135i kit you mentioned, it appears (but I couldn't verify) that the 135i brake kit is slightly different than the 330i kit...unless I am overlooking something.

The 330i kit is supposed to be a complete "plug and play" kit, with zero hassle...I'm hoping that's the case.

I also looked briefly on Turner's site and didn't see the piston upgrade kit, but I will check again.

No BBK yet, but I can say that the "watershed" of parts procurement has commenced. The slippery slope is steep, indeed.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by lab_rat

Thanks for your feedback - as well as everyone that contributed to the thread so far. There is quite a bit of first-hand experience/knowledge shared in the thread so far. Very much appreciated.

The BMW Performance brake kit I am mentioning for the 330i is https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...r/34110444769/.

After looking at the 135i kit you mentioned, it appears (but I couldn't verify) that the 135i brake kit is slightly different than the 330i kit...unless I am overlooking something.

The 330i kit is supposed to be a complete "plug and play" kit, with zero hassle...I'm hoping that's the case.

I also looked briefly on Turner's site and didn't see the piston upgrade kit, but I will check again.

No BBK yet, but I can say that the "watershed" of parts procurement has commenced. The slippery slope is steep, indeed.

Performance brakes and 135i calipers are identical. Mounting brackets might be different.

Yeah, I don't see that kit either. Might be off catalog. Wouldn't use them without it. RacingBrake makes one as well but they use stainless pistons instead of aluminum, might be worth it.

BBK will remove your parking brake and getting a safety inspection will be a problem although I've not tried it myself.

[justpete]

The parking brake is the problem with using the 335i brakes. The stock brakes aren't bad if you use the brass guides although they'll likely overheat under heavy track use. Still too much pad knockback though but that may not matter to some, dunno. Bugs the crap outta me which is why I went a slightly different setup.

[atmosphericM]

Originally Posted by justpete

The parking brake is the problem with using the 335i brakes. The stock brakes aren't bad if you use the brass guides although they'll likely overheat under heavy track use. Still too much pad knockback though but that may not matter to some, dunno. Bugs the crap outta me which is why I went a slightly different setup.

Sorry, deleted my post literally moments after I made it but I guess you caught it anyway. =P

Maybe just a pad/fluid change would help a lot. My car has under 30k miles on her so I'm sure it's on the OE parts, but personally it just feels too heavy for the brakes to me. I don't even mean after fading, I mean immediately. As in... almost dangerous when I'm really pushing her.

All I planned on doing was a front swap. I remember seeing something about coding to change the bias or something like that for the 335 brakes... anyway I deleted my post there because I realized I just need to do a lot more research before bugging anyone with questions yet heh.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by atmosphericM

Sorry, deleted my post literally moments after I made it but I guess you caught it anyway. =P

Maybe just a pad/fluid change would help a lot. My car has under 30k miles on her so I'm sure it's on the OE parts, but personally it just feels too heavy for the brakes to me. I don't even mean after fading, I mean immediately. As in... almost dangerous when I'm really pushing her.

All I planned on doing was a front swap. I remember seeing something about coding to change the bias or something like that for the 335 brakes... anyway I deleted my post there because I realized I just need to do a lot more research before bugging anyone with questions yet heh.

Nothing wrong with that post, no idea why'd you delete it, perfectly rational questions.

What do you mean by heavy? I didn't think the stock brakes, unmodified, were much good at all, even after pad and fluid changes but that's just me.

The parking brake drum diameter is larger, you have to change out the rear end parts or weld 335 shoes on top of 328i shoes for it to work.

Ain't gonna learn without asking questions, ask away!

[atmosphericM]

Haha, I appreciate it.

By heavy, I meant that, in my opinion, the car feels too heavy for the brakes. Not exactly scientific reasoning ha, but that's just how I feel.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by atmosphericM

Haha, I appreciate it.

By heavy, I meant that, in my opinion, the car feels too heavy for the brakes. Not exactly scientific reasoning ha, but that's just how I feel.

No worries.

Yeah, they don't feel like they could stop the car quickly. But once they're broken in they're better but to me they just sucked regardless. They're ok on the track if overbraking is avoided but still lots of knockback and pedal travel and somewhat mushy feel even with Motul 600.

The brass guides made a lot of the mushy feeling go away but I only did that on the rear brakes.

The brakes weren't 'right' until I switched to floating rotors front and rear, change the rear out 135i calipers, and defeated the ABS and stability systems. Now they work gangbusters, no knockback, much less pedal travel, great feedback, etc.

[lab_rat]

Originally Posted by justpete

No worries.

Yeah, they don't feel like they could stop the car quickly. But once they're broken in they're better but to me they just sucked regardless. They're ok on the track if overbraking is avoided but still lots of knockback and pedal travel and somewhat mushy feel even with Motul 600.

The brass guides made a lot of the mushy feeling go away but I only did that on the rear brakes.

The brakes weren't 'right' until I switched to floating rotors front and rear, change the rear out 135i calipers, and defeated the ABS and stability systems. Now they work gangbusters, no knockback, much less pedal travel, great feedback, etc.

I vaguely remember you writing something about defeating the ABS & stability systems...

I'll have to research those threads, but IIRC you had a local shop do it?

If so, I'm in the DFW area quite a bit lately, so I might have to jump on that bandwagon after I read your thread again.