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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Wastegate rattle after catless downpipes
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08-09-2013, 05:19 PM | #23 |
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08-12-2013, 11:23 AM | #24 | |
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Thanks for the reply. Hows it holding up? Still not rattle? Does it affect the turbos in any negative way? |
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08-12-2013, 01:33 PM | #25 | |
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I went to the dealer and they replaced the turbos and it did nothing at all, the rattle was perhaps even louder.
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08-12-2013, 01:52 PM | #26 |
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Same here, I had my turbos replaced in May, but didn't help with the wastgate rattle at all. Did you just do this fix to the rear turbo or did you find a way to access the front turbo as well? I'm thinking about using a washer to fill in the extra space rather than a e clip. This should accomplish the same thing correct?
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08-13-2013, 11:15 AM | #27 | |
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08-14-2013, 09:01 PM | #28 |
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I get a wierd rattle like a bolt is bouncing in my pipes on cold starts and when i bearly touch the throttle any idea what that is? Im taking my car in soon to get inspected. I have ar catless dps
Ill try n take a vid.. I dont have money to take my car in right now. |
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08-14-2013, 09:31 PM | #29 | |
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Could be the wastegates. Could also be the flap on the left muffler.
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08-15-2013, 03:26 PM | #30 |
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I, too, have wastegate rattle, and have had it for a long time, even after having my turbos replaced TWICE. I used to be FBO, but I've actually taken my AR DP's OFF because the wastegate noise was just too embarrassing =( I miss the power...
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08-16-2013, 06:14 AM | #31 |
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It's not always wastegates, well not as such anyway. The rod that connects to the wastegate actuator arm has a habit or vibrating/rattling as quite frankly the connection it makes with the arm is not tight enough to stop it moving slightly. This is a flaw with a good amount of N54 turbo's but not all of them which is odd however, you can fix this by inserting an E-Clip between then rod and the arm where they meet to take out the +/- 1mm of rattle room.
With stock DP's this rattle isn't heard, it only becomes audible when you remove the sound deadening stock Cats as the rattle of the rod resonates through the turbo. One way to distinguish WG rattle with rod rattle is whether or not you can hear the rattle come out of the tailpipes as well as the engine. Rod rattle is engine only and may have actually been tripped but your DP install. Best advise is to get under the car and look at the rear turbo. Check nothing is touching and if not, insert E-clip and see how you get on. The old Mr5 trick won't work for rod rattle that I know of. |
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08-20-2013, 10:15 PM | #32 |
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I looked at the wastegate last night and plan on trying this fix the weekend. My question for you is, did you put the e clip on the other side of the actuator arm the doesn't have the clip the is currently on the turbo. Sorry I hope I explained that well enough for you to understand.
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08-21-2013, 11:46 AM | #33 | |
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so if this is the car --/***\__ |-o----o-| *******\ --> this is the angle hope this helps.
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08-21-2013, 12:21 PM | #34 | |
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08-21-2013, 02:06 PM | #35 |
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i believe that is exactly what they did, but either way it should achieve the same.
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09-25-2014, 07:33 PM | #36 |
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Just had DPs put on. Finding the exact same. Also getting resonance at low revs. I'm wondering if it may also be the can flap?
Car has 31k miles. I don't think it's the wastegates. |
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09-26-2014, 08:09 AM | #37 |
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Mine rattles like crazy with only 30k miles. It's certainly the wastegates as you could barely hear it on cold start before. Now its real loud on cold starts and I can hear it on light spool. No combination of JB4 wastegate settings has fixed it. I'll be taking them back off to re-adjust the wastegate arms. If that doesn't work I'll just upgrade the turbos
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04-08-2018, 09:53 AM | #39 |
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It's not wastegate rattle folks
when youi install aftermarket DP and you get a rattle, metallic sounding... it is most likely 99% due to the pipe closest to the passenger subframe vibrating against the subframe. Metal on metal.
All you need to do is loosen the support bracket on the midpipe to tranny connection on both the midpipes and the tranny locations, then loosen both DP to midpipe connections, then loosen the V bands, and re-adjust all pipes to swing as far away from the subframe as possible. This is a very common problem and easily fixed. Good luck. Drive Safe. |
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