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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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ECS Cross Drilled and Slotted rotors
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11-22-2017, 03:38 AM | #23 | |
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2009 335i Saphire Black M Sport "Leopold" Cobb stage 2 aggressive tune, Mishimoto FMIC, Cobb charge pipe, Cobb catted down pipes, Forge diverter valves, BMS inlets and DCI, Cyba scoops and M Individual Audio retrofit and M3 gauge cluster retrofit. 2011 328i Titan Silver M Sport "Franzel" <--Wife's car |
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11-22-2017, 02:30 PM | #24 | |
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11-24-2017, 08:47 AM | #25 | |
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ALL pads will remove the coating on the braking surface of any coated rotor (not just our geomet). The coating is only a surface coating, the hats and veins will still be protected. |
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11-28-2017, 07:01 PM | #26 | ||
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David has it nailed - glad education is starting to become mainstream. Warped rotors are a thing of the past. Let me give some more detail on pad deposits. Pads are meant to be used in a particular temperature range. Generally speaking: Street - 500-800 degrees Sport - 800-1200 degrees Race - 1800-2200 degrees MOST Sport and race pads use a transfer layer - they literally smear brake pad material over the face of the rotor when BEDDED or BURNISHED properly. Just like laying down rubber on a drag strip, friction is increased with pad-pad friction. This transfer layer is established at bed in but it can wear off if the pad is used outside of its intended temperature range. Use it too cold and the transfer layer wears off unevenly - leaving you with high spots or pad deposits on the rotor. Use them too hot and too much material is spread over the rotor unevenly. Both will cause judder - or what most of history has called a warped rotor. The fix is to turn down the rotor (machine off the brake deposits) OR you can re-bed or re-burnish the pad/rotor so that the pad material is once again spread evenly over the rotor. The rotor will feel normal once again. If you wait too long to fix these issues, the high-spot pad deposits hit the rotor on every rotation and begin to develop hot spots in those areas. So now you will have hot and cold areas on the same rotor (relative to each other) that will eventually cause metallurgy changes in those spots. Pick a pad that is intended for the type of driving you do most often. If you drive a sport or race pad on the street - re-burnish periodically. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...and-procedures http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...eposit-removal |
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11-29-2017, 01:53 AM | #27 |
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by the way,
This is what hot spots look like on a rotor. Results of chasing a E60 M5 on Autobahn A67 and needing to slow down for my exit. I already had brakes on order as they were on the way out.
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2009 118i Monaco Blue "Maximillion"
2009 335i Saphire Black M Sport "Leopold" Cobb stage 2 aggressive tune, Mishimoto FMIC, Cobb charge pipe, Cobb catted down pipes, Forge diverter valves, BMS inlets and DCI, Cyba scoops and M Individual Audio retrofit and M3 gauge cluster retrofit. 2011 328i Titan Silver M Sport "Franzel" <--Wife's car |
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01-27-2018, 11:53 PM | #28 |
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I'm so glad I read this, as I recently purchased my car about four months ago and noticed my steering wheel wobbling under braking and thought it was warped rotors as well.
I've had cars in the past where I do like an ECS style drilled/slotted rotor and aftermarket pads and they squeak under braking. You guy's with the ECS set up or other drilled and slotted, did you notice any squeaking or not, and what is your setup please? My pads are needing replacement and I'd love to replace it all in one shot. |
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02-08-2018, 12:55 PM | #29 | |
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05-10-2018, 07:26 AM | #30 |
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Yeah, I bought the ECS 2 piece D/S Rotors and am suffering the "Warped Rotor" shutter myself.
So can you turn down these rotors or not? Last edited by Barefoot-335is; 05-10-2018 at 04:01 PM.. |
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