[UnheardWar]

How do you guys GET TO the pump? I have an 08 335xi, and am I missing something, or do I have to drop down my entire exhaust system to peel back the heat shield? Are you going in through the wheel well (and not having to touch the exhaust pipes?)

I'm going to try checking out the wires. Already replaced the pump itself, and the gas cap to the new blue ones (from green). Still getting the error messages. My car has been expired on the inspection since July (Nov now). Once the new year hits, the color changes, and I'm sure I'll finally get pulled over.

[vapore0n]

You go through the wheel well.

Identify which side has the pump. If you get under the car and peek through a black plastic cover, you can see a big black box with a white thing attached to it. The white thing is the pump, the black box is the carbon container. On my xi, the pump was on drivers side. See picks above.

Remove wheel

Remove wheel well cover. That black felt like material covering the whole well.

Remove black cover. Don't need to touch the exhaust or heat shields. But you do need to remove some screws that are attached to the heatshield.

Once the cover is out, remove all cables and hoses from the pump. Careful with the hoses as they are hard plastic and can be brittle.

Remove carbon box. You need to remove it all in order to remove the pump. After that it should be easy.

[UnheardWar]

I just wanted to say thank you. This is exactly what my problem was. I replaced the DMTL pump and my gas cap (from green to the blue) and here we are. A severed wire.

View post on imgur.com

This has been an issue for like 6+ months. When I spliced it back together and turned the engine on, the RPM's shuddered for a moment, which I've never witnessed before. I'm sure the pump suddenly turning on in several months did that.

Code gone, and thanks guys!

[eforty6_m3]

Originally Posted by UnheardWar

I just wanted to say thank you. This is exactly what my problem was. I replaced the DMTL pump and my gas cap (from green to the blue) and here we are. A severed wire.

View post on imgur.com

This has been an issue for like 6+ months. When I spliced it back together and turned the engine on, the RPM's shuddered for a moment, which I've never witnessed before. I'm sure the pump suddenly turning on in several months did that.

Code gone, and thanks guys!

Glad to help, man!

In my eyes, this is the ultimate goal and brings me a huge sense of satisfaction. No matter how minor or major, helping other enthusiasts deal with issues you've already dealt with yourself. Saving them the time and/or hassle.

Happy New Year gents!

[zexy]

I get the P2400 code as well. By any chance, did you guys get a longer crank at morning start-up? After the first start, the next times it starts fine and idles + runs good. Lets hope that it would only be the wire issue as you guys have stated, but could also be the DMTL pump. I will be inspecting it this afternoon.
I have an '07 E90 with original battery so that "may" be the cause of the long cranks. Any thoughts?

[eforty6_m3]

Originally Posted by Mr. X

I get the P2400 code as well. By any chance, did you guys get a longer crank at morning start-up? After the first start, the next times it starts fine and idles + runs good. Lets hope that it would only be the wire issue as you guys have stated, but could also be the DMTL pump. I will be inspecting it this afternoon.
I have an '07 E90 with original battery so that "may" be the cause of the long cranks. Any thoughts?

I don't recall any longer cranks when this issue existed...pretty certain there's no correlation, anyway. Could be the battery. My battery is on it's way out after not starting for a day or so, during the winter, that first crank is always a bit longer as the car sucks up just enough of the remaining juice to turn over.

Check out the wiring before you replace pump (wish I had taken my own advice) and let us know how you make out.

Good luck!

[zexy]

Originally Posted by onebamf335i

I don't recall any longer cranks when this issue existed...pretty certain there's no correlation, anyway. Could be the battery. My battery is on it's way out after not starting for a day or so, during the winter, that first crank is always a bit longer as the car sucks up just enough of the remaining juice to turn over.

Check out the wiring before you replace pump (wish I had taken my own advice) and let us know how you make out.

Good luck!

So does the cable rubbing on the plastic only relate to the pump being on the left side? Mine is on the right and I can't see anything wrong with it.

[eforty6_m3]

Originally Posted by Mr. X

So does the cable rubbing on the plastic only relate to the pump being on the left side? Mine is on the right and I can't see anything wrong with it.

Not necessarily, but I haven't really seen anyone else have the wiring issue with the pump on the right side. Your pump might be the culprit, after all.

[zexy]

Originally Posted by onebamf335i

Not necessarily, but I haven't really seen anyone else have the wiring issue with the pump on the right side. Your pump might be the culprit, after all.

Thanks for the reply. I should be getting the pump today and will clear the code after I install it. Let's see what happens after that.

[mytrplseven]

These are great write-ups and sharing is what it's all about. I'd like to throw in a thought to consider. After repairing a lot of brittle wires under a car I was restoring with electric tape or shrink tubing I found that I got rugged and additional protection from the weather and/or rubbing on wire repairs with liquid electric tape, available at the Home Depot. It's a bottle with a brush for applying over tape or shrink tubing. Stuff is great and goes on thick for long lasting protection.

[eforty6_m3]

Originally Posted by mytrplseven

These are great write-ups and sharing is what it's all about. I'd like to throw in a thought to consider. After repairing a lot of brittle wires under a car I was restoring with electric tape or shrink tubing I found that I got rugged and additional protection from the weather and/or rubbing on wire repairs with liquid electric tape, available at the Home Depot. It's a bottle with a brush for applying over tape or shrink tubing. Stuff is great and goes on thick for long lasting protection.

You got it, my friend!

And that liquid electrical tape stuff sounds like a good way to finish off a wiring job like this. Might have to pick some up for future use. Thanks for the heads up!

[hankcah]

Originally Posted by vapore0n

You go through the wheel well.

Identify which side has the pump. If you get under the car and peek through a black plastic cover, you can see a big black box with a white thing attached to it. The white thing is the pump, the black box is the carbon container. On my xi, the pump was on drivers side. See picks above.

Remove wheel

Remove wheel well cover. That black felt like material covering the whole well.

Remove black cover. Don't need to touch the exhaust or heat shields. But you do need to remove some screws that are attached to the heatshield.

Once the cover is out, remove all cables and hoses from the pump. Careful with the hoses as they are hard plastic and can be brittle.

Remove carbon box. You need to remove it all in order to remove the pump. After that it should be easy.

If you can see the white pump from under the car, why not replace the pump from there? Or is there no way to get access to it easily?

So, we should be removing the entire carbon box as the pump is attached to it.

Do you know the tools that are needed for this? How many screws to remove the box/pump? Thanks

[vapore0n]

Originally Posted by hankcah

If you can see the white pump from under the car, why not replace the pump from there? Or is there no way to get access to it easily?

So, we should be removing the entire carbon box as the pump is attached to it.

Do you know the tools that are needed for this? How many screws to remove the box/pump? Thanks

Dont remember if the pump was easily removable without pulling the whole carbon canister out. But you could try it. Remove the plastic cover and see if its possible.

You need torx bits to remove the screws holding the pump to the carbon box. You can see on the pictures how many you need to remove. Once you unscrew those, just pull on the pump. All other screws were philips.

[Ferrari M5]

Just wanted to thank the forum and especially sedi for the in depth pictures and write up. My SES light has been on for weeks and my inspection lapsed due to the errors everyone else is also showing for this issue. I am typically not the guy that lucks out with a broken wire fix and has to normally pay hundreds for the replacement parts...but this time it was different!!! Broken wire at the pump harness just as depicted in this thread. Thanks for all the help!!!

[eforty6_m3]

Originally Posted by Ferrari M5

Just wanted to thank the forum and especially sedi for the in depth pictures and write up. My SES light has been on for weeks and my inspection lapsed due to the errors everyone else is also showing for this issue. I am typically not the guy that lucks out with a broken wire fix and has to normally pay hundreds for the replacement parts...but this time it was different!!! Broken wire at the pump harness just as depicted in this thread. Thanks for all the help!!!

Even though the fix itself was relatively easy, this was a pain in the ass issue for me, so this was my attempt at making it less of a pain for anyone else with similar symptoms. So I'm glad my thread was helpful.

[Maniac0908]

sorry to bring up a old thread but i just started getting these codes. im going to check the wires and just replace the pump while im in there. my question is if these code would keep my cats from showing ready for emissions. thanks

[BKBMW335I]

I just changed the LDP a couple of months back, it is a simple thing to do and the device itself can be found on fleabay for a decent price. Mine was throwing that code and I tried several things to make it go away but in the end just changing out that tiny little pump solved the problem.

[eforty6_m3]

Originally Posted by Maniac0908

sorry to bring up a old thread but i just started getting these codes. im going to check the wires and just replace the pump while im in there. my question is if these code would keep my cats from showing ready for emissions. thanks

That I'm not sure about. I wouldn't think so, but that's just an assumption on my part. Sorry I couldn't be more help. Good luck!

[aig7761]

Just wanted to say thanks! Had this exact issue come up on my '08 335xi around 175K, just as depicted. Ate though one wire and was partially through a second. I repaired with a couple solder sleeves and heat gun, and although tight I was able to do it in the driveway without jacking up the car.

[lwgrenier]

@sed335i I'm guessing no one will reply to this in time but I was going to replace the wiring today. Does anyone know if wire type/gauge matters? Was going to pick up some standard stuff, nothing special.

[Fb2017]

Just wondering, are all your cars 335i? I’m getting codes on my 328i from what I understand the pump is located on the passenger side rear of the car. I wonder if its possible to have the same wiring issues with the car or if it really is the pump. Codes I’m getting are.. 2A12, 2A13, 2A18