|
|
|
|
|
|
BMW Garage | BMW Meets | Register | Today's Posts | Search |
|
BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
>
Front clunking when turning and going over bump
|
|
09-28-2018, 07:00 PM | #1 |
Robot
2056
Rep 2,434
Posts |
Front clunking when turning and going over bump
I'm getting a heavy clunk sound from the front suspension when I'm turning into a parking lot that has a dip or turning into an angled driveway. Turning on a flat road makes no noise whatsoever.
Is this the symptom of bad swaybar end links or bushings? I had the wheels off and couldn't feel any free play when trying to move it by hand, but didn't try a pry bar yet. UPDATE: It was a loose bolt where the strut braces meet at the firewall. Not just under torqued, but very loose. I also get a very slight vibration through the steering wheel at speeds over 55, despite having the wheels/tires balanced twice and rotated twice. Is this a bad thrust arm bushing? UPDATE: It was bad thrust arm bushings. Not knowing a whole lot about BMW OEM suppliers, I replaced with Delphi brand thrust arms and I'm pleased to update that after five years and 50K miles they're still holding up great. Last edited by lowrydr310; 12-09-2023 at 05:25 PM.. Reason: updated with solution |
09-30-2018, 11:00 PM | #4 |
Robot
2056
Rep 2,434
Posts |
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-30-2018, 11:45 PM | #5 |
Colonel
366
Rep 2,318
Posts |
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=4w1IW2_oU2s Check-out the first 30 sec.
|
Appreciate
0
|
10-01-2018, 01:20 AM | #6 |
Brigadier General
1995
Rep 4,021
Posts |
It could be several things but control arm bushings and strut mounts are the most likely culprits. When you're going about 20 mph and quickly but firmly tap the brakes several times, can you feel it? Grab the wheel at 9 and 3 to check for fore-and-aft play pointing to worn control arm bushings. Visually inspect strut hats with a light from up top. You can sometimes see the control arm clunk if you brake hard next to a black car and you're looking for it lol
|
Appreciate
0
|
10-02-2018, 03:43 PM | #8 |
Lieutenant Colonel
732
Rep 1,819
Posts |
__________________
2009 118i Monaco Blue "Maximillion"
2009 335i Saphire Black M Sport "Leopold" Cobb stage 2 aggressive tune, Mishimoto FMIC, Cobb charge pipe, Cobb catted down pipes, Forge diverter valves, BMS inlets and DCI, Cyba scoops and M Individual Audio retrofit and M3 gauge cluster retrofit. 2011 328i Titan Silver M Sport "Franzel" <--Wife's car |
Appreciate
0
|
10-02-2018, 04:13 PM | #9 | |
Major General
1934
Rep 6,965
Posts
Drives: 2007 Black/Black 335i e90
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Holly, MI
|
Quote:
1) nuts need to be re-torqued around the control arms - not likely unless you just put in new arms etc. 2) one or more control arms are bad 3) front wheel bearing(s) are bad - clunk is not part of a wheel bearing going bad though 4) sway bar link is bad, but it shouldn't create vibrations after 55mph 5) tie rod(s) are bad 6) strut bearing(s) are bad. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
10-02-2018, 04:14 PM | #10 | |
Major General
1934
Rep 6,965
Posts
Drives: 2007 Black/Black 335i e90
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Holly, MI
|
Quote:
1) nuts need to be re-torqued around the control arms - not likely unless you just put in new arms etc. 2) one or more control arms are bad 3) front wheel bearing(s) are bad - clunk is not part of a wheel bearing going bad though 4) sway bar link is bad, but it shouldn't create vibrations after 55mph 5) tie rod(s) are bad 6) strut bearing(s) are bad. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
10-02-2018, 05:29 PM | #11 | |
Robot
2056
Rep 2,434
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
10-03-2018, 12:12 AM | #12 |
Lieutenant Colonel
732
Rep 1,819
Posts |
Visual inspection of the Top strut mount won't work. You have to lift that corner of the car and try to move the wheel up and down. The bearings get worn and allow for the up and down movement causing the clunk sound. I actually had to lift the wheel with one hand and keep a finger from the other hand on the strut top nut to feel the play.
__________________
2009 118i Monaco Blue "Maximillion"
2009 335i Saphire Black M Sport "Leopold" Cobb stage 2 aggressive tune, Mishimoto FMIC, Cobb charge pipe, Cobb catted down pipes, Forge diverter valves, BMS inlets and DCI, Cyba scoops and M Individual Audio retrofit and M3 gauge cluster retrofit. 2011 328i Titan Silver M Sport "Franzel" <--Wife's car |
Appreciate
0
|
10-15-2018, 02:02 PM | #13 |
Robot
2056
Rep 2,434
Posts |
I found the source of this clunk and I'm embarrassed to admit that I didn't check for this sooner. The bolt holding the drivers side strut bar/brace (connecting the strut tower to the firewall) was loose. Very loose, to the point where the brace had about 1/2" of up and down free play. I tightened it up and there's no more clunk.
The funny thing is that it also resolved an annoying rattle that I had coming from deep in the center dashboard when going over rough roads. I had suspected a loose bolt under the dash and planned on removing my iDrive display and stereo (CD/DVD drives) to check for it, however it looks like it was the rattling strut brace transmitting the noise to the center of the firewall. |
Appreciate
0
|
Bookmarks |
|
|