[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by dakotacoates

Hey guys sorry if this post has already been made but I've been searching all around and have had trouble finding the advice I need

So I just bought a 2008 BMW 335i completely stock with 106,000 miles I have a jb4 tune coming in the mail right now and I wanted to know what are the best supporting mods to do are what are some good brands to go with and what order I should do them in
I also wanted to know what all I would need to do to start running E85
Lastly I wanted to know what issues I could be looking forward to around this mileage and any preventative maintenance I should do as of now thank you guys in advance

Define best!

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

If the diverter valve is leaking off the charge pipe, you dont order a new cp. thats an ignorant advice. One first tries replacing the diverter valve orings that can be found on ebay for $5.

It's not ignorant, it's proactive to avoid being stuck on the side of the highway. Chances are the plastic cp will break at some point now that he's increasing boost on a stock plastic charge pipe with 100k miles, leaving him stranded, and it's a cheap and easy upgrade.

[Milan]

OP are you an inventor? I don't think anyone in the history of the world has ever asked this question before!

Honestly though, inb4 your for sale post within a year where you realize you are in way over your head and the car bankrupts you with maintenance you neglected

[dakotacoates]

Originally Posted by Milan

OP are you an inventor? I don't think anyone in the history of the world has ever asked this question before!

Honestly though, inb4 your for sale post within a year where you realize you are in way over your head and the car bankrupts you with maintenance you neglected

I'm so tired of hearing people tell me that I'm not taking care of my maintenance and that the car is going to break down on me. How does that help me at all maybe you should tell me what maintenance needs to be done at what mileage what's common for these cars to go bad etc. I am a mechanic and I have owned a BMW E 90 before the valve cover gasket was just replaced 1000 miles ago and the breaks along with it The spark plugs have eight or 9000 miles on them the water pump and thermostat seem to be working fine I haven't gotten any high-pressure fuel pump codes or anything like that yet the car isn't leaking or burning a drop of oil its holding coolant perfect i'm going to do the transmission service on it here very soon and replace the whole pan and filter with it I made this thread for advice on mods and the common problems and anything you guys think I should look out for not to get told that I'm in over my head and my maintenance isn't being kept up on

[dakotacoates]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Define best!

By best I just mean Best bang for your buck I know I can go with ECS tuning parts for everything but I can get an ARM intercooler for less than an ECS with the same gains So I'm just looking for things like that and peoples experience with different brands and what Mods to do in what order right now my plan is I have an exc mods to do in what order right now my plan is I have an XS power charge pipe and blow off valve coming in the mail and then I was going to do an ARM intercooler and then a BMS DCI And then some VRSF down pipes unless I can find A cheaper brand with the same games that is still reputable And reliable

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by dakotacoates

By best I just mean Best bang for your buck I know I can go with ECS tuning parts for everything but I can get an ARM intercooler for less than an ECS with the same gains So I'm just looking for things like that and peoples experience with different brands and what Mods to do in what order right now my plan is I have an exc mods to do in what order right now my plan is I have an XS power charge pipe and blow off valve coming in the mail and then I was going to do an ARM intercooler and then a BMS DCI And then some VRSF down pipes unless I can find A cheaper brand with the same games that is still reputable And reliable

Your mod plan sounds fine. Haven't heard of xs so hopefully no fitment issues, but the other stuff is good. I have vrsf dp and wouldn't recommend any cheaper options as I think you're more likely to face fitment issues. You may want to buy your own dp gaskets as the ones it comes with aren't the greatest, but they should work.

Still, replace all your vacuum lines. When I did all my lines at 110k I also replaced the canisters and the boost solenoids, they are cheap so up to you based on your preferred maintenance style.

If your gonna be under the trans might be a good opportunity for some upgraded trans mounts like rogue engineering makes.

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by Jklad

It's not ignorant, it's proactive to avoid being stuck on the side of the highway. Chances are the plastic cp will break at some point now that he's increasing boost on a stock plastic charge pipe with 100k miles, leaving him stranded, and it's a cheap and easy upgrade.

Blowing up your charge pipe won't leave you stranded. You'll have no boost and a CEL because of it. Engine will still run although intake will be without the benefit of air filters. It'll get you home.

When I started modding, I decided to wait until my plastic CP blew up before I replaced it. That was 60K miles ago. Spun a rod before the CP blew up!

[Banzai250]

So what is your mod so far ?

[Yooperjusty]

Hey guys, I'm also new to 335. I'm looking to get a 08/09 335xi with the n54. Would everything discussed in this post about the maintenance and tuning of the 335i also apply to the 335xi?!

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by Yooperjusty

Hey guys, I'm also new to 335. I'm looking to get a 08/09 335xi with the n54. Would everything discussed in this post about the maintenance and tuning of the 335i also apply to the 335xi?!

100%

Plus you can be on the alert for leaking front axle CV joints (the rubber boots decay or are damage by road debris - look for rings of grease on surrounding components) and leaky "hydrobearings" at the subframe end of the traction struts (the rubber insert is liquid-filled - look for wetness around rubber insert)

And any work under the car (such as waterpump replacement or downpipe installation) is at least twice as difficult because the axles are in the way and the subframe is larger and more intrusive.

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by dpaul

Blowing up your charge pipe won't leave you stranded. You'll have no boost and a CEL because of it. Engine will still run although intake will be without the benefit of air filters. It'll get you home.

When I started modding, I decided to wait until my plastic CP blew up before I replaced it. That was 60K miles ago. Spun a rod before the CP blew up!

That's great you were able to limp home safely, I'd prefer to not risk ingesting plastic bits into the intake, or driving around with a/f ratios all out of wack until a new cp arrives.

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by Jklad

That's great you were able to limp home safely, I'd prefer to not risk ingesting plastic bits into the intake, or driving around with a/f ratios all out of wack until a new cp arrives.

To each his own. That's what makes the world go round.

But for the record there is nothing out of whack about the A/F ratios when the charge pipe is cracked. Don't know why you think there would be. Your O2 sensors and the DME regulate that.

And plastic bits in the intake are not much of a worry - your engine is made of metal. Stones from the road surface might be a problem tho.

[Sgop335]

Most ppl here dont know how their n54 works.

[fozzydj]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

Most ppl here dont know how their n54 works.

Does it have a turbo??


😂😂😂

[HB E90]

OP I'm in the same boat as you. My 2010 335 has 75k mi and I just had the walnut blasting done and Trans service. The turbos, HPFP, Injectors, VCG, OFHG, spark plugs, have all been replaced in the last 20k mi. Spark Plugs have about 18k mi? I was thinking of just going MHD stage 1 maybe + and see how it goes. I guess I should do the Vac lines - need to research that - anyone have a quick link for vac lines? If I need plugs and/or coils so be it. It would be a good 1st DIY. One thing that worries me is the Water Pump as I didnt see anywhere that's its been replaced. CP and IC will come later - especially IC before it heats up here in So Cal. Although I was thinking of just installing a water sprayer for it?? But I'm thinking stage 1+ is as far as I want to go. (For now anyway) If I can get it to push 15-16psi reliably I think I'll be happy. I dont plan on tracking it just a few hard pulls now and then. I'll stay tuned to this.

[dakotacoates]

Originally Posted by Banzai250

So what is your mod so far ?

So far all I have is a jb4 and a charge pipe with a 50mm blow off valve I'm doing the tranny service this week I devised to go with redline d4 fluid is this going to cause any problems I know a lot of people have used this and swear by it so I figure it's safe I have a 6 speed auto

[dakotacoates]

Originally Posted by HB E90

OP I'm in the same boat as you. My 2010 335 has 75k mi and I just had the walnut blasting done and Trans service. The turbos, HPFP, Injectors, VCG, OFHG, spark plugs, have all been replaced in the last 20k mi. Spark Plugs have about 18k mi? I was thinking of just going MHD stage 1 maybe + and see how it goes. I guess I should do the Vac lines - need to research that - anyone have a quick link for vac lines? If I need plugs and/or coils so be it. It would be a good 1st DIY. One thing that worries me is the Water Pump as I didnt see anywhere that's its been replaced. CP and IC will come later - especially IC before it heats up here in So Cal. Although I was thinking of just installing a water sprayer for it?? But I'm thinking stage 1+ is as far as I want to go. (For now anyway) If I can get it to push 15-16psi reliably I think I'll be happy. I dont plan on tracking it just a few hard pulls now and then. I'll stay tuned to this.

I have no experience with MDH but I decided to go with a jb4 due to more versatility and safety features and I will eventually do a MHD backend flash but I found a used jb4 on offer up for $200 and I LOVE it it's a crazy crazy difference and I would 100% recommend I'm already pushing 14-15 psi and it feels quick but I've heard great things about MHD but as far as water pump I would wait until it needs it because it's a costly repair if you can't do it yourself I did it myself for only $200 but I waited till it needed it and my car ran fine after so no damage was done but it's always good to be safer then sorry if you have the money to spend