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      01-30-2018, 04:48 PM   #1
maxor
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N52 Cranks But Wont Start? Possible Fuel Pump Replacement?

Quick Summary :

I have a 2008 328i, I am driving and i do a u-turn and the car looses power and engine completely shuts off randomly. Now keep in mind, this never happened before and their was no symptoms leading up to this. I try to restart the car and it just keeps cranking but not starting.


Update : 01/31/2018

- Checked fuel pressure with fuel gauge : reads 0
- DVOM to pin connectors to fuel pump : reads ~ 5-6 Volts
- Fuel Pump does not prime when inserting key


Video : (starts at 22 Sec)



I am either thinking this is a fuse relay or the fuel pump, Would like to diagnose the issue first as to not replace everything.

Car is currently at 140k miles.

Did a fuel pressure test, No pressure coming through fuel rails.

Any ideas?

Edit :

No codes are present, CEL light was on briefly when the car turned off but disappeared after taking out key.

Last edited by maxor; 01-31-2018 at 03:38 PM..
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      01-30-2018, 04:49 PM   #2
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Time start diagnosing. Any codes?
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      01-30-2018, 04:50 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8 View Post
Time start diagnosing. Any codes?
No codes at all present, About to launch inpa to see if any are stored.

Update :

No codes except for FRM AHL Module Fault Codes.

Last edited by maxor; 01-30-2018 at 05:21 PM..
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      01-30-2018, 11:49 PM   #4
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You should be able to check the fuel pressure in INPA if you suspect that it is an issue. I haven't seen much issues with N52 Fuel pump going bad for a no start fault. Do you know when last the plugs or coils were replaced?


Make sure to have a battery charger to help maintain your battery as it will drain.
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      01-31-2018, 04:12 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PichaDis11 View Post
You should be able to check the fuel pressure in INPA if you suspect that it is an issue. I haven't seen much issues with N52 Fuel pump going bad for a no start fault. Do you know when last the plugs or coils were replaced?


Make sure to have a battery charger to help maintain your battery as it will drain.
Will check the fuel pressure with a gauge tomorrow.

Plugs have been replaced less than 20k miles ago.

Planning on checking coils with a ignition coil tester as well.
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      01-31-2018, 05:49 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxor View Post
Will check the fuel pressure with a gauge tomorrow.

Plugs have been replaced less than 20k miles ago.

Planning on checking coils with a ignition coil tester as well.
I wouldn't even bother testing the coils because the possibility of all 6 going out at once (all as individual failures) is virtually impossible. If the ignition is out, then it's not a coil problem but rather an problem with the ECU that tells the coils to fire. There'd be a fault code stored for that.

I'd look at the fuel pump. It should pressurize upon setting the key in the ignition. It sounds like you already did a static test of the fuel pressure with a pressure gauge and read zero pressure, so obviously the fuel pump is not operating. It's either a bad fuel pump or the fuel pump control module. I'm not familiar with the INPA code readers because I have a BT scan tool and a Foxwell scan tool, but though I've not explicitly checked, there most likely is a test routine in the code reader software to check fuel pump operation. If the SES light went on as the engine died, I'd imagine there is an OBD2 fault code in the ECU stored in the memory, so I surprised you didn't find one. I'm sure the Bentley repair maual has a test procedure as well. You stated you had codes for "FRM" and "AHL" module, but didn't elaborate. What are those codes for?

Based on the mileage and age, and the price of the fuel pump is not too bad, I'd start with replacing the fuel pump. It's not hard on BMWs since there is a access plate under the rear seat to get access to the fuel pump (vs. dropping the tank - which I just did on my Hummer H3T BTW). Way back in the day with my E30 the fuel pump just died without warning. Luckily it was in front of the house. The E90 is probably a bit more involved, but on the E30 I had the pump out and back in in under an hour (I didn't drain the tank). There's a DIY for the fuel pump in the DIY section IIRC. If you replace the pump make sure to have a bucket with you since the pump will have gasoline in it and you'll be carrying it trough the interior of the car. For me and the Hummer, it turned out to be the fuel pump control module. The Hummer had a high fuel pressure issue.

And don't smoke while you are replacing the pump

GLWI

P.S. The dude in the video doesn't realize the tab on top of the relay is there to grab it with the fuse puller...
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Last edited by Efthreeoh; 01-31-2018 at 06:05 AM..
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      01-31-2018, 03:36 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
I wouldn't even bother testing the coils because the possibility of all 6 going out at once (all as individual failures) is virtually impossible. If the ignition is out, then it's not a coil problem but rather an problem with the ECU that tells the coils to fire. There'd be a fault code stored for that.

I'd look at the fuel pump. It should pressurize upon setting the key in the ignition. It sounds like you already did a static test of the fuel pressure with a pressure gauge and read zero pressure, so obviously the fuel pump is not operating. It's either a bad fuel pump or the fuel pump control module. I'm not familiar with the INPA code readers because I have a BT scan tool and a Foxwell scan tool, but though I've not explicitly checked, there most likely is a test routine in the code reader software to check fuel pump operation. If the SES light went on as the engine died, I'd imagine there is an OBD2 fault code in the ECU stored in the memory, so I surprised you didn't find one. I'm sure the Bentley repair maual has a test procedure as well. You stated you had codes for "FRM" and "AHL" module, but didn't elaborate. What are those codes for?

Based on the mileage and age, and the price of the fuel pump is not too bad, I'd start with replacing the fuel pump. It's not hard on BMWs since there is a access plate under the rear seat to get access to the fuel pump (vs. dropping the tank - which I just did on my Hummer H3T BTW). Way back in the day with my E30 the fuel pump just died without warning. Luckily it was in front of the house. The E90 is probably a bit more involved, but on the E30 I had the pump out and back in in under an hour (I didn't drain the tank). There's a DIY for the fuel pump in the DIY section IIRC. If you replace the pump make sure to have a bucket with you since the pump will have gasoline in it and you'll be carrying it trough the interior of the car. For me and the Hummer, it turned out to be the fuel pump control module. The Hummer had a high fuel pressure issue.

And don't smoke while you are replacing the pump

GLWI

P.S. The dude in the video doesn't realize the tab on top of the relay is there to grab it with the fuse puller...

Correct, when i checked the fuel pressure it read zero.

I also put a DVOM on the pin connectors for the fuel pump and it read 5 volts, not sure what the correct voltage is for this but i also suspect its this cause the battery is pretty drained as well (need to hook up a battery tender).


The FRM fault codes are for the Adaptive headlight module. Not related to the fuel pump.
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      02-12-2019, 07:22 PM   #8
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same issue as mentioned here: I donot see any fuel pressure on the rail

same issue as mentioned here: I donot see any fuel pressure on the rail

The car cranks but does not start..

I read some voltage at the fuel pump leads but do not hear the fuel pump hum when I put the key in on position

When I activate the fuel pump through Foxwell nt 520 scanner, I hear an unusual big growling noise from fuel pump ( not sure that means fuel pump is not working)

when I activate the waterpump using the scanner, I donot hear any noise ( as I had a code for water pump reduced functioning

I also had replaced the battery and could that have caused the 2a98 code to show up: crank shaft code... with this 2a98 code present, would it deter the car from starting? and even stop fuel pump from working?

This is all on 2006 BMW 325i ( E90, n52)

And what was the solution that worked for you when you were not seeing any fuel on the rail?

Thanks!!!
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      02-12-2019, 07:25 PM   #9
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BTW, I did test the Fuel pump relay solenoid (under the hood on passenger side inside the ECM BMW equivalent white box) with 12 volts ( and heard the solenoid click) and multimeter ( and saw the resistance go down to zero)

I checked a fuse in the fuses behind the glove box and did not see anythig fused off

Thanks
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