[Stream]

Cleaning won't help.

Please post:
1. build month and year of your cars.
2. engine model (n51, n52b25 or n52b30)

[cband]

Originally Posted by cband

I am having these exact issues on my 330xi 2006... weather around -20 to -45 F. Just put in brand new $200 dollar battery with 950 cca. Anyone find a solution or a fix? Once I get my car warm and clear the codes... it goes away but I don't have time to use INPA every morning. Should i take the throttle body apart and clean it? I get half engine light and DSC 4x4 brake limp mode all at the same time.

Originally Posted by cband

Just to chime in... my car threw 2cfb and 2d09 errors. Car was in limp mode and I needed to get home. Used INPA to clear codes, problem went away. Instantly when I clutched and waited for a red light and car went to idle the error came back. So I had my laptop on my seat and recleared the codes, and quickly took off on the green light. As long as I never let the car idle at the lowest RPMs the error wouldn't come back. Lucky for me I was able to cruise home with the exception of 3 stoplights.

Going to clean my throttle body this weekend.

Originally Posted by Stream

Cleaning won't help.

Please post:
1. build month and year of your cars.
2. engine model (n51, n52b25 or n52b30)

Car is a 2006 330xi Manual Transmission N52B30 - 03/2006

[cband]

Originally Posted by Stream

Cleaning won't help.

Maybe a can get a small pad heater installed onto the engine around the throttle body to keep it warmer?

[Taskmaster]

I didn't even have to open this thread, I just knew Canada had something to do with it.

[LittleBlue]

I had this issue and after a couple of trips to the dealer and leaving it for them to start it in the morning and read the codes it was determined to be a sensor (I forget what is called but will update after looking it up) that sits under the valve cover. This serves as the cold start up sensor and adjust the air and gas accordingly. After the sensor was changed it starts like a dream in zero degree weather now. There is also a little motor that that they have changed since I would only have to pay for the part as they were already in there. $1,500 job! Is worth hearing it purr on a cold morning right away again. They tell me it's a common problem with the 3's

[itoldyou2wice]

The other morning, I started my '06 330i, and let it warm up (Burlington, VT been VERY cold for a month now between -20F and 20F, no garage but I always let it warm up 5-10min before driving). When I pulled out of the driveway, it threw the half engine CEL and "Service Engine Soon" lights then proceeded to cut power. I turned around and parked it until I could get it to a shop Monday AM.

Took it to an independent shop who said it was the frozen throttle body issue everyone's describing, here. Said it wasn't a real issue and that it could be driven for a little while, but that it should be replaced. Is anyone having theirs replaced and having similar issues? This was the ONLY cold day that it's happened. Otherwise, the car's been fantastic. I wonder if it'll go away after it gets over 30F again…

[stormtrooper7]

I wouldn't replace the TB. I think someone here did that and the symptoms were still present. I took my TB apart and cleaned it even though it was spotless.

I replace both my VANOS solenoids and that seemed to help, but I still will get the frozen TB code every now and then. Usually if I don't warm the car up long enough.

There is a thread started about checking for sludge on the VANOS filter. This may be something to check out as well.

Just keep warming up the car before going out.

[freakystyly]

Bumping this thread for the cold snap we've been having lately up in Canada..

Happened to me this morning but not previous cold mornings for some reason. Let the car warm up and it will drive fine afterwards, clear check engine light after verifying it is the throttle body error.

There is another thread going over how our throttle bodies are more of a failsafe than actually used to control throttle.

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by freakystyly

Bumping this thread for the cold snap we've been having lately up in Canada..

Happened to me this morning but not previous cold mornings for some reason. Let the car warm up and it will drive fine afterwards, clear check engine light after verifying it is the throttle body error.

There is another thread going over how our throttle bodies are more of a failsafe than actually used to control throttle.

Do you have an early 06’ ? The intake manifold and things around it had changed between early 06 e90 and later. Early ones have one connection point from valve cover breather and PCv vent nipple has a tiny tube that goes to intake tube before throttle body instead of open athmosphere. I remember reading a TIS about old models like those causing problems and dealers were replacing them upon complaint. If you did a 3 stage intake conversion (for others with 328/325 reading this) and used one of those early build model intakes you may run into same problem.

[nsjames]

interesting.

I have indeed swapped to the early 06 manifold with the single PCV hose point.
I haven't yet had any issues, but I will see some -teens weather next week. It did start and run fine at -8 early this week.

I still have my PCV vented to atmosphere like factory 08 stuff.

I did have a problem with rough idle, stumbling and misfires with loss of power when cold when my ESS was failing. it eventually got to the point where I was unsure if the car would start at any temp below 30F.
new ESS fixed it right up.

[freakystyly]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

Do you have an early 06’ ? The intake manifold and things around it had changed between early 06 e90 and later. Early ones have one connection point from valve cover breather and PCv vent nipple has a tiny tube that goes to intake tube before throttle body instead of open athmosphere. I remember reading a TIS about old models like those causing problems and dealers were replacing them upon complaint. If you did a 3 stage intake conversion (for others with 328/325 reading this) and used one of those early build model intakes you may run into same problem.

Without checking I do remember seeing one small tube going into a nipple before the throttle body. Would this be the weak point (for condensation) causing the throttle body to freeze? Thankfully so far it seems it was a one time thing with wet weather and sudden freezing.

Would you happen to know what the new(er) design for the 330i intake was like? The one they would replace with complaint? I doubt I have much say with the dealer anymore since I bought the car 2nd or 3rd hand now. Is that the blow by heater recall? I don't believe my car was part of the batch.

On a side note: I am currently planning on a small DISA replacement in the warmer months and could use any hints or advice for things to change / repair while I'm in there besides possible breather hoses cracking.


Thanks

[PhaseP]

Sorry I searched but couldn't find the reference where I had read someone had a problem with the early style intake manifold and it was replaced.
And I don't remember if it was related to throttle body freezing or not, it was a few years ago. All I know for sure, BMW changed the design of the intake manifold, early ones had one place and right in the middle across the throttle body where the breather tube was connecting. Later design the breather tube makes a Y and connects at two places, one to the right and one to the left of the throttle body relatively.

I cannot say this is causing the throttle freezing but it could be. Maybe dealership can provide more info what was the intake manifold change was for and related TIS/TSB on it.

The breather valve will be bringing some humidity from the crankcase.

You can see in these pictures the differences:

[longtermproject]

I had this issue last year, and one day this year so far. Temperatures around 0 degrees F or lower seemed to cause my issue. 06 325i N52. When I scanned the car for codes, I got a message for throttle stuck.

I'd really like to have a fix for this, as I cannot pull my car into a garage overnight where I live.

[leif20]

I had this issue on my car this afternoon here in Toronto. 2006 330i. Temps never really got above -16 deg c today and have been below -15 all week. Usually in the morning i'll start and idle the car for 5 mins or so before getting in and driving off, but after work today I didnt really do that, drove off after about 30 seconds and got limp mode right before leaving the work parking lot. After idling for 5-10 mins worrying about how i was going to get home I was able to drive home with the engine light on, but no limp. I did notice some more sluggish throttle response though. After I got home I pulled codes with INPA and I had:

2AAC - Variable Sauganlage (DISA)
2CEC - Drosselklappensteller klemmt kurzzeitig
2CED - Drosselklappensteller klemmt dauerheft
2D09 - Drosselklappensteller

Intake and throttle related codes. I cleared codes and drove around the neighborhood with no issues. Im glad to see other people having the same issues, because to me it seemed like this was directly related to the cold and not to any other hardware fault (the car is in pretty good shape otherwise). I will try to idle it a bit more in the future, but I don't expect the issue to become serious.

Originally Posted by PhaseP

The breather valve will be bringing some humidity from the crankcase.

That is a really interesting observation. I suppose that could be it, but I don't see how the two offset hoses would be significantly better than a single hose. It's not like the single hose is shooting moisture directly at the throttle body... or is it? I have a 330i, I think I don't have the manifold swap option since (correct me if I'm wrong) there is more valving inside the 330i mani vs the 328.

[nsjames]

my junk worked fine at -14 with the single inlet manifold.

but I still have the internal valve cover CCV, so maybe that makes a difference?

unknown.

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by leif20

… or is it? I have a 330i, I think I don't have the manifold swap option since (correct me if I'm wrong) there is more valving inside the 330i mani vs the 328.

The early intake manifold design using single inlet from breather hose is only up to January 2006 or so, from realoem.com.
So for every N52 (330, 325, 328) starting around January 2006 the intake manifolds (with DISA valves or not) had two inlet holes offset of two sides of the throttle body. You have the swap option if you have single breather hose connection one.

What is the build date of your car? It must be printed in the sticker at the driver side door jamb. Pre Jan 2006 or post?
If you notice this thread people having the issue are 2006 N52 (325 or 330). They could be all very early build Jan 2006.

I wish I could find the post or the TSB I had read couple years back that was mentioning replacing the intake manifold within warranty period when owner complained I think idling issues, but I can't.

[PhaseP]

Never fear Google is here, found the TIS I had read a few years back, thanks to the codes posted here:

https://5series.net/forums/attachmen...call-b1201.pdf

Note that not only the intake manifold and crankcase ventilation hose but also the drain hose is to be replaced improved parts.

SI B12 01 08

…
MODEL
E90 and E91 (3 Series)
E60 and E61 (5 Series), all models with N52 engine
Vehicles produced up to 11/2005
…
SITUATION
Immediately after starting the engine, the Service Engine Soon lamp is illuminated and the engine enters power
reduction ("fail-safe") mode. The EDK (throttle) has failed the start-up test due to binding or jamming. In these
specific cases, the vehicle may have been parked for an extended period of time in a freezing climate. One or
more of the following faults are stored in the DME:
l 2D09 Throttle - air supply not correct
l 2CED Throttle - valve actuator, jamming continuously - jammed permanently
l 2CEC Throttle - valve actuator, jamming briefly - jammed briefly.

…….

CAUSE
The crankcase ventilation system deposits a small amount of moisture in the intake track. This moisture can
freeze on the throttle valve while the vehicle is parked for extended periods of time. Frequent starts and shorter
driving trips can cause an increase of moisture accumulating in the oil, compounding the situation.
……
2. On a customer complaint basis only, replace the intake manifold, crankcase ventilation hose and the
crankcase ventilation drain hose with the improved parts. Refer to Repair Instruction RA 11 61 050
[Removing and installing intake air manifold (N52)].
…..

PARTS INFORMATION
E90 325i/Xi, E91 325i/Xi, and E60 525i/Xi only
E90 330i/Xi, E60 530i/Xi and E61 530Xi only
WARRANTY INFORMATION
Covered under the terms of the BMW New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
Part Number Description Quantity
11 61 7 559 524 Intake manifold 1
11 61 7 559 530 Ventilation hose 1
11 15 7 567 801 Crankcase ventilation drain hose (rear wheel drive only) 1
11 15 7 567 802 Crankcase ventilation drain hose (all wheel drive only) 1
Part Number Description Quantity
11 61 7 559 523 Intake manifold 1
11 61 7 559 530 Ventilation hose 1
11 15 7 567 801 Crankcase ventilation drain hose (rear wheel drive only) 1
11 15 7 567 802 Crankcase ventilation drain hose (all wheel drive only) 1

[leif20]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

The early intake manifold design using single inlet from breather hose is only up to January 2006 or so, from realoem.com.
So for every N52 (330, 325, 328) starting around January 2006 the intake manifolds (with DISA valves or not) had two inlet holes offset of two sides of the throttle body. You have the swap option if you have single breather hose connection one.

What is the build date of your car? It must be printed in the sticker at the driver side door jamb. Pre Jan 2006 or post?
If you notice this thread people having the issue are 2006 N52 (325 or 330). They could be all very early build Jan 2006.

I wish I could find the post or the TSB I had read couple years back that was mentioning replacing the intake manifold within warranty period when owner complained I think idling issues, but I can't.

Excellent find! This is exactly the situation I had.

The build date of the car according to vin decoder is 04-25-2005. So I definitely have the single PCV vent mani. I guess I can replace the manifold with the 'improved parts,' or that is an option. But it seems to me that this replacement is on an as-needed basis, and if the problem doesnt happen again I don't really need the replacement.

As for the manifold itself, can I really swap in a 2007+ IM to my 2006 330i? I thought the manifolds must be different due to stage 2/stage 3 designs.

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by leif20

As for the manifold itself, can I really swap in a 2007+ IM to my 2006 330i? I thought the manifolds must be different due to stage 2/stage 3 designs.

Only if the 2007+ IM had 3 stage, which N51's have.
As upgraded parts you will need this intake manifold from the link below; see which models and years it applied in the links. You can look for a used one from any of those model and year cars and with that engine. Post 2006 US only N51 engines have this manifold P/N 11617559523
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...&q=11617559523

Then this vent hose that is a Y from the oil separator P/N 11617559530:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...&q=11617559530

Then this return hose if you have RWD, P/N 11157567801:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...&q=11157567801

Or this return hose if you have an XI, P/N 11157567802:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...802&series=E90

[juld0zer]

Hope you guys don't mind me asking in this thread - did any of you experience a random high idle that won't settle to the normal 650-700rpm once the engine is warmed up? I'm exploring the possibility of a stiff throttle actuator but I don't live in a cold region - it never snows here.

[leif20]

Originally Posted by juld0zer

Hope you guys don't mind me asking in this thread - did any of you experience a random high idle that won't settle to the normal 650-700rpm once the engine is warmed up? I'm exploring the possibility of a stiff throttle actuator but I don't live in a cold region - it never snows here.

No, I never experienced this issue. If you have INPA or some other scan tool you should read codes and see what's up. If no codes then clear anyways, and hope it goes away.