[Processing61]

New joiner here.

My last car was an AUDI TT MK2 2006 2.0 TFSI, stage one remap, 260 BHP. I'm going to look at a 2010 330D 2dr Coupe, M-sport, AUTO, full service history, 72000, private sale, apparently in very good condition. I've sort of fell in car love with the 330D so I'm pretty keen on making this my next car.

I've been doing a bit of digging and found this car does have two recalls "install positive battery terminal line repair cable and "checking and if necessary re-working plug connection for blower output stage". I have let the guy know and he has said he will get this sorted before I come and view it. I've found one other potential problem, the swirl flaps, apparently, over around 80000 miles the swirl flaps can break/come loose and drop into the engine, he has not had the swirl flaps removed but I plan on doing this if I was to buy the car.

I have a few questions, 1, is there any common issues or anything, in particular, I should look out for when viewing the car, anything i should steer clear of?

2, I generally do no more than 10-15 miles a day, usually town driving, with the occasional long trip. Will I get problems with the EGR and DPF or will it be ok?

3, if I may get potential issues with the PDF and or EGR, is it advisable to physically and electronically delete/remove the DPF and EGR, also removing the swirl flaps too?

4, What are the running costs like? I use an independent garage, not a dealer/BMW. Taking into account the economy, tyres, brakes, servicing, maintenance etc.

5, is £7500 a reasonable price?

Any advice is much appreciated, thank you.

[Sensible_]

Originally Posted by Berger96

New joiner here.

My last car was an AUDI TT MK2 2006 2.0 TFSI, stage one remap, 260 BHP. I'm going to look at a 2010 330D 2dr Coupe, M-sport, AUTO, full service history, 72000, private sale, apparently in very good condition. I've sort of fell in car love with the 330D so I'm pretty keen on making this my next car.

I've been doing a bit of digging and found this car does have two recalls "install positive battery terminal line repair cable and "checking and if necessary re-working plug connection for blower output stage". I have let the guy know and he has said he will get this sorted before I come and view it. I've found one other potential problem, the swirl flaps, apparently, over around 80000 miles the swirl flaps can break/come loose and drop into the engine, he has not had the swirl flaps removed but I plan on doing this if I was to buy the car.

I have a few questions, 1, is there any common issues or anything, in particular, I should look out for when viewing the car, anything i should steer clear of?

2, I generally do no more than 10-15 miles a day, usually town driving, with the occasional long trip. Will I get problems with the EGR and DPF or will it be ok?

3, if I may get potential issues with the PDF and or EGR, is it advisable to physically and electronically delete/remove the DPF and EGR, also removing the swirl flaps too?

4, What are the running costs like? I use an independent garage, not a dealer/BMW. Taking into account the economy, tyres, brakes, servicing, maintenance etc.

5, is £7500 a reasonable price?

Any advice is much appreciated, thank you.

Ok.

Well the swirl flaps were really a problem on the preLCI M47 and M57 engines. Your 2010 will have the N57 which has a much improved design. However not perfect. 80k miles is nothing for either engine.

Swirl flaps on the N57 won't just fall apart. You really need to inspect the manifold to see the carbon deposits. You'd likely only be able to do this after sale.

1. Both N47 and N57 experience timing chain problem. This is a major problem. You should have it checked.

Inspect the DPF and exhaust. Has the DPF been tampered with? It's an automatic MOT fail now.

2. You just need to keep an eye on the DPF Ash and Soot levels. Invest in a Carly or ProTool Diagnostic app on you phone.

However. I'd definitely say 10-15miles a day of town driving is NOT good for this engine. The M and N engine diesels like long runs. You'll fine the soot builds up very quickly with town driving in the DPF and you'll need to take it for a long run to regenerate it. If you don't keep an eye on the soot levels you'll run into trouble.

With that sort of mileage and use you'd benefit far more with a 330i or treat yourself to a 335i.

3. You could do the delete. But risk an MOT fail. Why not just go for the 335i?

4. I have a 330d and get 43mpg but I do 70miles a day mostly motorway / a road.

I service the car myself. At 80,000 miles stuff will need replacing. Shocks tend to get blown by 50k, Wheel bearing noise, thermostat, glow plugs and controller.

5. Depends on the spec. Not too bad. For that price I'd want xenon headlights, m sport trim, leather seats, idrive as a minimum...

[Silver Streek]

Cost sounds ok if it is in nice condition.

Don't get the DPF removed, it's illegal and will cause it to smoke and so fail the MOT.

Check the timing chain is quiet if it's the newer N57 engine.

Running cost are ok, local running should get between 30 to 45mpg depending if you start stop drive or cruise at a sensible speed. A good independent should be around £60 per hour so not too bad for servicing costs. I do oil changes myself, usually costs about £50 after buying oil and filter etc. Very easy to do.

Doing 10 to 15 miles a day might be fine, it depends on what sort of driving those mile's are. If that's just stop start driving, you're DPF might not thank you. If there are some 40 50 mph cruises mixed in you should be fine. The LCI N57 engines tend to be less troublesome with blocked dpf's so I understand.

[Processing61]

Originally Posted by Sensible_

Ok.

Well the swirl flaps were really a problem on the preLCI M47 and M57 engines. Your 2010 will have the N57 which has a much improved design. However not perfect. 80k miles is nothing for either engine.

Swirl flaps on the N57 won't just fall apart. You really need to inspect the manifold to see the carbon deposits. You'd likely only be able to do this after sale.

1. Both N47 and N57 experience timing chain problem. This is a major problem. You should have it checked.

Inspect the DPF and exhaust. Has the DPF been tampered with? It's an automatic MOT fail now.

2. You just need to keep an eye on the DPF Ash and Soot levels. Invest in a Carly or ProTool Diagnostic app on you phone.

However. I'd definitely say 10-15miles a day of town driving is NOT good for this engine. The M and N engine diesels like long runs. You'll fine the soot builds up very quickly with town driving in the DPF and you'll need to take it for a long run to regenerate it. If you don't keep an eye on the soot levels you'll run into trouble.

With that sort of mileage and use you'd benefit far more with a 330i or treat yourself to a 335i.

3. You could do the delete. But risk an MOT fail. Why not just go for the 335i?

4. I have a 330d and get 43mpg but I do 70miles a day mostly motorway / a road.

I service the car myself. At 80,000 miles stuff will need replacing. Shocks tend to get blown by 50k, Wheel bearing noise, thermostat, glow plugs and controller.

5. Depends on the spec. Not too bad. For that price I'd want xenon headlights, m sport trim, leather seats, idrive as a minimum...

Thank you for the advice.

Regarding the DPF and EGR delete i have been told it all depends on the emissions. If the DPF was deleted/removed an MOT station may not necessarily fail you for this as its very difficult to tell, it may look like it might have been tampered with but they cannot see if the DPF is there or not. Also, the EGR is covered and would be difficult to see if it's there or not, so again, not necessarily a fail. But i do understand now the emissions test is stricter and removing the egr and dpf will produce more emissions so you have more chance of failing this. The above is what I've researched and have been told anyway, I could be wrong.

The reason for me wanting the 330D is because the running costs do not seem ridiculous, good economy and they're rapid. I may be doing 40ish miles a day soon which would be a mix of A roads and dual carriageways so that would probably be ok for the DPF and EGR but me doing the 40ish miles a day isn't confirmed.

is the 330i turbo or NA? It looks like the 330i is slightly cheaper to run than my TT, looking at tax and economy. I don't think I would be able to afford to buy and run a 335i. I may have a look into the 330i a bit more, is there anything regarding the 330i I should be aware of, timing chain again or any other common problems etc?

So you would say probably not to go for the 330D with the current mileage i am doing, but the current mileage in a 330d would be ok if the DPF and EGR were removed, but then you risk failing the MOT?

[Silver Streek]

Originally Posted by Berger96

Thank you for the advice.

Regarding the DPF and EGR delete i have been told it all depends on the emissions. If the DPF was deleted/removed an MOT station may not necessarily fail you for this as its very difficult to tell, it may look like it might have been tampered with but they cannot see if the DPF is there or not. Also, the EGR is covered and would be difficult to see if it's there or not, so again, not necessarily a fail. But i do understand now the emissions test is stricter and removing the egr and dpf will produce more emissions so you have more chance of failing this. The above is what I've researched and have been told anyway, I could be wrong.

So you would say probably not to go for the 330D with the current mileage i am doing, but the current mileage in a 330d would be ok if the DPF and EGR were removed, but then you risk failing the MOT?

It's not that simple, any sign the DPF has been tampered with is a fail. You are right it's hidden away and not easy to see however the emissions part of the test says any visible smoke and it's a fail. When testing they increase the revs of the car so will see smoke with no DPF. Unless you find a dodgy garage or course.

330i cars are na so have no turbo. Would be better I guess for just town driving if you are doing g very low mileage. Diesels are ok you just have to bear in mind they do need a decent run now and then. Don't get too het up about DPF blockages. Also if you have it mapped you can still get 300bhp with the DPF in place. Just use a decent tuner like BWchiptune. If a mapper tells you you need to get the DPF removed to make decent power then avoid them as they don't know their stuff

[Sensible_]

Originally Posted by Silver Streek

It's not that simple, any sign the DPF has been tampered with is a fail. You are right it's hidden away and not easy to see however the emissions part of the test says any visible smoke and it's a fail. When testing they increase the revs of the car so will see smoke with no DPF. Unless you find a dodgy garage or course.

330i cars are na so have no turbo. Would be better I guess for just town driving if you are doing g very low mileage. Diesels are ok you just have to bear in mind they do need a decent run now and then. Don't get too het up about DPF blockages. Also if you have it mapped you can still get 300bhp with the DPF in place. Just use a decent tuner like BWchiptune. If a mapper tells you you need to get the DPF removed to make decent power then avoid them as they don't know their stuff

+1

100% agree. People seem obsessed with removing DPF's. It's not necessary. Just keep an eye on the soot levels. Even if it gets blocked, the ECU will force a revenge on a long run anyway. Don't get hung up on it.

I've driven all the E9X Engines (Non M).

My personal opinion:

1. 335i - Brilliant engine.
2. 335d - also very good. I prefer the power delivery of the 335i though.
3. 330d - Good all rounder
4. 325d - Very similar to the 330d. I'm surprised you overlooked this? It's quick and economically. Easily remapped to a 330d spec.
5. 330i - steady but boring.
6. 325i - even more boring.

I won't even start with the 4cyls.

Going on what you've said. If it was me I'd go for a 325d. Same engine, but more economical and good with a remap.

[Processing61]

Originally Posted by Sensible_

+1

100% agree. People seem obsessed with removing DPF's. It's not necessary. Just keep an eye on the soot levels. Even if it gets blocked, the ECU will force a revenge on a long run anyway. Don't get hung up on it.

I've driven all the E9X Engines (Non M).

My personal opinion:

1. 335i - Brilliant engine.
2. 335d - also very good. I prefer the power delivery of the 335i though.
3. 330d - Good all rounder
4. 325d - Very similar to the 330d. I'm surprised you overlooked this? It's quick and economically. Easily remapped to a 330d spec.
5. 330i - steady but boring.
6. 325i - even more boring.

I won't even start with the 4cyls.

Going on what you've said. If it was me I'd go for a 325d. Same engine, but more economical and good with a remap.

Thanks for that. I have looked into the 325D but the 330D seems a very similar price to the 325D, the 330D has some minor changes to engine so it can handle/produce more power, running costs/economy isn’t too different and has a bit more tuning potential. So as I’m finding is the price seems to be the same, to me it makes sense to go with a 330D, seeing as it’s slightly higher spec.

So if I was doing 10-15 town miles a day you think it would be ok to get a 330D, I’ll just have to monitor the soot levels? How would you do this, physically checking or is there a sensor? Then if/when it gets blocked up, just take it for a good run out?

[Sensible_]

Originally Posted by Berger96

Thanks for that. I have looked into the 325D but the 330D seems a very similar price to the 325D, the 330D has some minor changes to engine so it can handle/produce more power, running costs/economy isn’t too different and has a bit more tuning potential. So as I’m finding is the price seems to be the same, to me it makes sense to go with a 330D, seeing as it’s slightly higher spec.

So if I was doing 10-15 town miles a day you think it would be ok to get a 330D, I’ll just have to monitor the soot levels? How would you do this, physically checking or is there a sensor? Then if/when it gets blocked up, just take it for a good run out?

Fair enough.

Get the Carly app and a WiFi obd2 adapter. You can see the soot levels on your phone then.

It's done by a sensor.

[rasa bmw]

Originally Posted by Berger96

Thanks for that. I have looked into the 325D but the 330D seems a very similar price to the 325D, the 330D has some minor changes to engine so it can handle/produce more power, running costs/economy isn’t too different and has a bit more tuning potential. So as I’m finding is the price seems to be the same, to me it makes sense to go with a 330D, seeing as it’s slightly higher spec.

So if I was doing 10-15 town miles a day you think it would be ok to get a 330D, I’ll just have to monitor the soot levels? How would you do this, physically checking or is there a sensor? Then if/when it gets blocked up, just take it for a good run out?

i ahve both the 330d and 335d,,,the 330d is great on fuel if you get a manual one,mine has 305 bhp and averages around 43 mpg,,that proper mixed driving with the odd blast,,my 335d(350 bhp) averages 33 mpg same sort of driving

[Processing61]

Not sure what to do now, hmm. Top 3 cars on my list; 330D Auto, then an Audi A3 2.0 TFSI QUATTRO S Tronic and then the BMW 330i Auto. I need to do some more thinking. Thanks for all the info people^!

[Silver Streek]

Originally Posted by Berger96

Not sure what to do now, hmm. Top 3 cars on my list; 330D Auto, then an Audi A3 2.0 TFSI QUATTRO S Tronic and then the BMW 330i Auto. I need to do some more thinking. Thanks for all the info people^!

I suggest you go and give them all a good drive and see which you like best, that's the only way to decide on a car.

[Silver Streek]

Originally Posted by Berger96

Thanks for that. I have looked into the 325D but the 330D seems a very similar price to the 325D, the 330D has some minor changes to engine so it can handle/produce more power, running costs/economy isn’t too different and has a bit more tuning potential. So as I’m finding is the price seems to be the same, to me it makes sense to go with a 330D, seeing as it’s slightly higher spec.

So if I was doing 10-15 town miles a day you think it would be ok to get a 330D, I’ll just have to monitor the soot levels? How would you do this, physically checking or is there a sensor? Then if/when it gets blocked up, just take it for a good run out?

I have a 325d, it's the M57 and the only difference between it and the 330d M57 is smaller injectors. I have a bluefin map on mine (mild map) which just takes it past the power/torque of the M57 330d.

You can still get good power without changing the injectors with a good mapper, think BWchiptune quote around 280 bhp and over 600nm torque. I went with the 325d as there are no swirl flaps from factory and no timing chain issues plus I knew I could map it to 330d power or above. I got lucky and found a top condition car with all the bits I wanted.

The N57 325 and 330 are the same just different tune.

[Andy198712]

I have the n57 325d and had it mapped, it’s 290bhp and 577nm but will get a better map on it this year maybe.

I have 88k on mine and mostly do a 3 mile trip to work...... yeah yeah I know.
But I have no issues and dpf in place.
I do long trip now and again and enjoy taking it out for drives too

I do longer trips probably most weeks but in Cornwall a dual carriage way is rare and no motorways.

In my personal opinion the N57 probably handles shorter distances better.
Also on that short stuff I get about 37mpg and longer trips it’s mid 40’s if sensible.
The motor is ace

[undecided1]

Hi, if you can do without the slushbox auto (never understood why anyone would want one) and can scrape together some more cash then my car ticks all your wants and more, a lot of what you’ve been concerned about is already dealt with. My car is a final production month (13 plate) 330D M Sport E92 coupe, extremely high spec, no issues with EGR or swirl flaps etc (engine walnut blasted to clean out recently at BMW dealership and brand new inlet manifold inc new swirl flaps, new EGR cooler and EGR valve fitted at circa £4k cost), full BMW service history, no services due for 12,000+ miles and still under BMW warranty. DPF ok and regening fine as you’d expect (checked in carly), all 6 glow plugs and controller replaced not long ago etc, cheap tax, good MPG from the newer N57 engine and no carbon deposits clogging it up etc. The car is new enough that those recalls never even applied to this car. More details here: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1570271

[nomiS330d]

Originally Posted by undecided1

Hi, if you can do without the slushbox auto (never understood why anyone would want one) and can scrape together some more cash then my car ticks all your wants and more, a lot of what you’ve been concerned about is already dealt with. My car is a final production month (13 plate) 330D M Sport E92 coupe, extremely high spec, no issues with EGR or swirl flaps etc (engine walnut blasted to clean out recently at BMW dealership and brand new inlet manifold inc new swirl flaps, new EGR cooler and EGR valve fitted at circa £4k cost), full BMW service history, no services due for 12,000+ miles and still under BMW warranty. DPF ok and regening fine as you’d expect (checked in carly), all 6 glow plugs and controller replaced not long ago etc, cheap tax, good MPG from the newer N57 engine and no carbon deposits clogging it up etc. The car is new enough that those recalls never even applied to this car. More details here: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1570271

This is just about THE perfect non ///M e92. Absolutely lovely thing.

[Processing61]

Originally Posted by undecided1

Hi, if you can do without the slushbox auto (never understood why anyone would want one) and can scrape together some more cash then my car ticks all your wants and more, a lot of what you’ve been concerned about is already dealt with. My car is a final production month (13 plate) 330D M Sport E92 coupe, extremely high spec, no issues with EGR or swirl flaps etc (engine walnut blasted to clean out recently at BMW dealership and brand new inlet manifold inc new swirl flaps, new EGR cooler and EGR valve fitted at circa £4k cost), full BMW service history, no services due for 12,000+ miles and still under BMW warranty. DPF ok and regening fine as you’d expect (checked in carly), all 6 glow plugs and controller replaced not long ago etc, cheap tax, good MPG from the newer N57 engine and no carbon deposits clogging it up etc. The car is new enough that those recalls never even applied to this car. More details here: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1570271

Looks like a lovely car but that’s way over my budget. Good luck with the sale!

[Processing61]

Originally Posted by Silver Streek

Cost sounds ok if it is in nice condition.

Don't get the DPF removed, it's illegal and will cause it to smoke and so fail the MOT.

Check the timing chain is quiet if it's the newer N57 engine.

Running cost are ok, local running should get between 30 to 45mpg depending if you start stop drive or cruise at a sensible speed. A good independent should be around £60 per hour so not too bad for servicing costs. I do oil changes myself, usually costs about £50 after buying oil and filter etc. Very easy to do.

Doing 10 to 15 miles a day might be fine, it depends on what sort of driving those mile's are. If that's just stop start driving, you're DPF might not thank you. If there are some 40 50 mph cruises mixed in you should be fine. The LCI N57 engines tend to be less troublesome with blocked dpf's so I understand.

Regarding the timing chain, is it the chain tensioner part that fails? If yes is it worth replacing it with a new tensioner part right away?

Also what is the best way to check the chain tensioner; start up from cold, very minor ticking is normal but loud ticking is not? Make sure there is no rattling when revving the engine especially on the down-revs? if you could let me know that would be appreciated

[undecided1]

Originally Posted by Berger96

Looks like a lovely car but that’s way over my budget. Good luck with the sale!

Ok no worries but like most things, a little extra spent now will save you some much larger bills down the road... now I've pushed bmw to replace all the expensive known potential failure points it's problem free motoring for 90,000 miles unlike buying one that'll be due those pricey replacement parts and labour imminently. As an added bonus it's the newest car you'd ever find as well, not to mention the spec