[rawdog573]

Originally Posted by type-dRew

Figure out how to get logs to datazap, i send them from my fire 7 all the time.

How do you get logs off your fire. I got a fire 8 and unable to upload through datazap and laptop won't recognize the tablet as a mass storage to get them off that way.

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Originally Posted by rawdog573

How do you get logs off your fire. I got a fire 8 and unable to upload through datazap and laptop won't recognize the tablet as a mass storage to get them off that way.

I upload directly to datazap over wifi with my fire...

[Nero10578]

Originally Posted by buster84

Thats exactly what I'm talking about. No car is alike and the wgdc will always be different because its based on air resistance. If your current car has new turbos, then the likly hood of it having a boost leak is very small; whereas, your car could have had a slight leak for years without ever knowing. The same can be said about doing walnut blasting. If its been done recently you will have less air resistance and the engine will flow better.

When i said the wgdc will stabilize without a boost leak that means it'll be more stable. If you have a boost leak and your under target the ecu will compensate by opening the wastegate more, this in turn causes the car to overboost past the target boost. With small boost leaks you get overboost issues, with large boost leak issues you get underboost issues. The computer can only compensate so much and the ECU will only be able to adapt so much when a boost leak is an unpredictable amount of air leaking can increase/decrease with time.

I also have a feeling your low lpfp is affecting your wastegate duty cycle because the car auto adapts to decrease timing/boost when the fuel pressure is low to prevent the car from self-destruction. Once you replace that lpfp and get your fuel stabilized post a new log because that'll be alot better indicator of your cars performance.

I just noticed that your in CA so my theory about the car having new turbos seems very likely. In CA with all the smog laws they warranty's lasted longer than normal and it was much easier to get parts replaced underwarranty from bmw even with minor problems. I moved out of CA in 2014, but before I left i took my e93 n54 in for an oil change to bmw and airbag recall and they ended up swapping out my injectors for index 12 because the car was missfiring. I also got new spark plugs and this was all for free underwarranty. I thought it was very strange considering I never noticed any missfires or had any codes ever pop up, but maybe they just wanted to get some free labor and replaced stuff that didnt really need replacing, or their scanners picked up something mine didnt.

I don't know man, does MHd ots maps not work with new stock turbos? Either ways I think I need someone to explain with reasonable reasons why they're stock turbos not someone with generic reasons being persistent that they're stock turbos.

Originally Posted by rawdog573

How do you get logs off your fire. I got a fire 8 and unable to upload through datazap and laptop won't recognize the tablet as a mass storage to get them off that way.

Turns out you just need to use a file manager app and then the way I do it is send the log files to my email first with it then I upload to datazap with my PC.

[buster84]

Originally Posted by Nero10578

I don't know man, does MHd ots maps not work with new stock turbos? Either ways I think I need someone to explain with reasonable reasons why they're stock turbos not someone with generic reasons being persistent that they're stock turbos.

MHD works with all n54's it doesnt matter what turbos your running. If your car not running well without the mhd tmap upgrade checked means that you probably have the upgraded tmap (you can easily figure this out if you analize the part number on the part). I accidently left that unselected on my car after changing my tunes around and left it on the stock tmap setting and I never had the issues youve had. The car still ran fine for me.

I didnt give you generic reasons as to why your turbos are stock turbos I gave you the reasons why your old car and this car could feel different with stock turbos. If you want facts then here are some.

1) Your car from the factory comes with stock turbos and its highly unlikly you got new ones unless the old ones went bad or was removed by the previous owner so the odds are in favor of them being stock.

2) In California its ILLEGAL for any Dealer to sell you a car that is illegally modified. This includeds everything before the catalytic converters, like the turbos, outlets, intercooler, charge pipe, air filters ect... The only legal parts allowed must have CARB numbers, or be exact stock replacements from the factory

Since the odds of number 2 actually happening are almost 0 (unless you bought your car from a hole in the wall dealer) the turbos on your car MUST be stock otherwise the dealer sold you an illegally modified car and you can SUE them for damages or the return of your car because in California its ilegal for ANY dealer to sell you car a car that has modified parts without CARB numbers labeled on them and the AS-IS clause doesnt apply when its related to smog/California Air Resources Board (from the dearler).

The fact that you already had MHD on the car leads me to belive that you did buy this car at a hole in the wall dealer or you bought it private party from a person who works at a dealer because BMW always updates the computers on their cars before selling them used and this would revert the flash back to stock since a modified ECU is also illegal to sell to anyone in CA without it already being approved by CARB. The only legal ECU upgrade is DINAN.

Feel free to believe what ever you want, we are only here to help. Its not our job to prove that you have stock turbos or aftermarket turbos all were her to do is provide informortion for you to figure that out. The best advice has already been given and thats to remove the downpipes and examine them visually, but based on CA laws and the fact that you said you bought it from a dealer my money is on stock turbos that were probably replaced under warranty not to long ago.

[Nero10578]

Originally Posted by buster84

MHD works with all n54's it doesnt matter what turbos your running. Your car not running well without the mhd tmap upgrade checked means that you probably have the other tmap, although I accidently left that selected on my car as a stock tmap and never had the issues youve had. The car still ran fine for me.

I didnt give you generic reasons as to why they are stock turbos I gave you the reasons why your old car and this car could feel different with stock turbos. If you want facts then here are some.

1) Your car from the factory comes with stock turbos and its highly unlikly you got new ones unless the old ones went bad or was removed by the previous owner so the odds are in favor of them being stock.

2) In California its ILLEGAL for any Dealer to sell you a car that is illegally modified. This includeds everthing before the catalytic converters, like the turbos, outlets, intercooler, charge pipe, air filters ect... The only legal parts allowed must have CARB numbers, or be exact stock replacements from the factory

Since the odds of number 2 actually happening are almost 0 (unless you bought your car from a hole in the wall dealer) the turbos on your car MUST be stock otherwise the dealer sold you an illegally modified car and you can SUE them for damages or the return of your car because in California its ilegal for ANY dealer to sell you car a car that has modified parts without CARB numbers labeled on them.

The fact that you already had MHD on the car leads me to belive that you did buy this car at a hole in the wall dealer or you bought it private party from a person who works at a dealer because BMW always updates the computers on their cars before selling them used and this would revert the flash back to stock since a modified ECU is also illegal to sell to anyone in CA without it already being approved by CARB. The only legal ECU upgrade is DINAN.

Feel free to believe what ever you want, we are only here to help. Its not our job to prove that you have stock turbos or aftermarket turbos all were her to do is provide informortion for you to figure that out. The best advice has already been given and thats to remove the downpipes and examine them visually, but based on CA laws and the fact that you said you bought it from a dealer my money is on stock turbos that were probably replaced under warranty not to long ago.

No the problem was even with the upgraded tmap checked it DID NOT run fine. The turbos overboosted to the 22.5psi tune reading limit and the throttle position was closing very harshly and the car felt like crap to drive overall. After the custom tune the car ran perfectly and pulled smoothly. Now an argument to that is it might be really good stock turbos with wastegate arms not properly adjusted. But you never thought of that right?

I never said anything about buying it at a big legitimate BMW dealer, this was more a mom and pop shop kind of small dealer so it made sense they had no idea what the car has nor do they care as much as a BMW dealer.

Like I said, I just get the feeling that you're just salty if I do have upgraded turbos for free and are persistent that I don't. I mean hell even wedge says my car IS overboosting and needs a custom tune. If all you can do is INSIST that its stock without a reasonable argument to why then I don't see how its helpful at all. In no way I am insisting that I do have upgraded turbos I just want to hear people's opinion and arguments on this not someone insisting that its stock without an argument against why I think it might be upgraded.

Here's how I can argue to your reasons:
1) THe car has almost 150K miles, so there's no way the turbos are the original one from the factory and judging by how the car had a stage 1 tune that's even more unlikely that the car was ran stock and babied all its life to still be on original turbos.

2) Yes that's the law but are they going to open the downpipes and check if the turbos are stock? I don't think anyone will go that far. They don't even know what's MHD and most car sellers don't give a damn as long as the engine isn't throwing any error codes they will deem the car in working order and ready to sell.

[buster84]

Originally Posted by Nero10578

No the problem was even with the upgraded tmap checked it DID NOT run fine. The turbos overboosted to the 22.5psi tune reading limit and the throttle position was closing very harshly and the car felt like crap to drive overall. After the custom tune the car ran perfectly and pulled smoothly. Now an argument to that is it might be really good stock turbos with wastegate arms not properly adjusted. But you never thought of that right?

I never said anything about buying it at a big legitimate BMW dealer, this was more a mom and pop shop kind of small dealer so it made sense they had no idea what the car has nor do they care as much as a BMW dealer.

Like I said, I just get the feeling that you're just salty if I do have upgraded turbos for free and are persistent that I don't. I mean hell even wedge says my car IS overboosting and needs a custom tune. If all you can do is INSIST that its stock without a reasonable argument to why then I don't see how its helpful at all. In no way I am insisting that I do have upgraded turbos I just want to hear people's opinion and arguments on this not someone insisting that its stock without an argument against why I think it might be upgraded.

Here's how I can argue to your reasons:
1) THe car has almost 150K miles, so there's no way the turbos are the original one from the factory and judging by how the car had a stage 1 tune that's even more unlikely that the car was ran stock and babied all its life to still be on original turbos.

2) Yes that's the law but are they going to open the downpipes and check if the turbos are stock? I don't think anyone will go that far. They don't even know what's MHD and most car sellers don't give a damn as long as the engine isn't throwing any error codes they will deem the car in working order and ready to sell.

If you flash you car back to stock and it doesnt run then you have issues with your car. I can pull my custom tunes and go stock and it still runs perfectly fine and I have the upgraded tmap.

As for being salty I couldnt give dam about that and I dont care. I never did I already said that I hope your right, but I gave you the facts about why the cars feel different you just choose to belive that these are aftermarket and are trying to hard to belive that. My guess is that the dealer told you they are and you bought it based on that alone.

As for the dealer the LAW is the LAW and if they didnt follow that then the dealer is at falt. It doesnt matter if its a mom and pop shop as long as they hold that dealers licence they are legally abided to sell a car thats legal. If they dont have the software to check the ECU or pay bmw to do it, or even examine the cars they buy to resell then this dealer is really stupid and will be out of bussiness in no time. It will only take 1 lawsuit because that lawsuit will open up CARB to investigate and fine the hell out of them.

Again your making assumptions. Alot of bmws last well past 200k even with stock turbos. A simple search finds them, i found this post within 30 seconds of searching.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...47&postcount=5

As for overboost the biggest reasons for overboost are boost leaks, stock wastgates like i told you in a previous post. I'm done helping you since you seriously think im jealous about this, which is so far from the truth because I can afford any turbo, any car I want and I dont need to hope for free shit. My bmw is my toy car, my main car i bought last year is a new 2018 camry xse. Good luck with your car, I hope you got exactly what you paid for and were not told by the hole in the wall dealer that the turbos were upgraded or hinted at it because if they did I'd return the car to them immediately.

[Nero10578]

Originally Posted by buster84

If you flash you car back to stock and it doesnt run then you have issues with your car. I can pull my custom tunes and go stock and it still runs perfectly fine and I have the upgraded tmap.

As for being salty I couldnt give dam about that and I dont care. I never did I already said that I hope your right, but I gave you the facts about why the cars feel different you just choose to belive that these are aftermarket and are trying to hard to belive that. My guess is that the dealer told you they are and you bought it based on that alone.

As for the dealer the LAW is the LAW and if they didnt follow that then the dealer is at falt. It doesnt matter if its a mom and pop shop as long as they hold that dealers licence they are legally abided to sell a car thats legal. If they dont have the software to check the ECU or pay bmw to do it, or even examine the cars they buy to resell then this dealer is really stupid and will be out of bussiness in no time. It will only take 1 lawsuit because that lawsuit will open up CARB to investigate and fine the hell out of them.

Again your making assumptions. Alot of bmws last well past 200k even with stock turbos. A simple search finds them, i found this post within 30 seconds of searching.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...47&postcount=5

As for overboost the biggest reasons for overboost are boost leaks, stock wastgates like i told you in a previous post. I'm done helping you since you seriously think im jealous about this, which is so far from the truth because I can afford any turbo any car I want I dont need to hope for free shit. Good luck with your car, I hope you got exactly what you paid for and were not told by the hole in the wall dealer that the turbos were upgraded or hinted at it because if they did I'd return the car to them immediately.

Ok now that's something I just learned. This is helpful now. So I can put my car back to stock map and it'll run and not constantly throw overboost codes but I see that its still overboosting by 2-3psi so the turbos are giving more than what the stock tune is even with WGDC I seen in the low 20%. Does your upgraded turbo setup do that with a stock tune? Or are my solenoids actually shot causing that?

I was not ever hinted at the car being upgraded the dealer had no idea they thought it was stock. I didn't mean to insult you but it was very difficult considering you didn't bring anything new to the discussion.

[buster84]

Originally Posted by Nero10578

Ok now that's something I just learned. This is helpful now. So I can put my car back to stock map and it'll run and not constantly throw overboost codes but I see that its still overboosting by 2-3psi so the turbos are giving more than what the stock tune is even with WGDC I seen in the low 20%. Does your upgraded turbo setup do that with a stock tune? Or are my solenoids actually shot causing that?

I was not ever hinted at the car being upgraded the dealer had no idea they thought it was stock. I didn't mean to insult you but it was very difficult considering you didn't bring anything new to the discussion.

I was going to say if the dealer did make that claim or if you want to argue your case that you were sold a modified you should get this. Thats one of the lowest miles ive seen on an n54 in a long time.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1623778

As for the upgraded turbos, The only thing bigger turbos actually do is provide you more power. For example, with stock turbos at 8psi you will net 300hp, but with upgdraded turbos that push more CFM you will probably be at 350hp or more depending on the size of the turbo at the same psi. Turbos have no effect on overboost.

If your car is overboosting its from a boost leak somewhere after the turbos (charge pipe, couplers, BOV), boost solenoids, vacuum lines, sticking turbo wastegates, or a leaking intercooler (which has the lowest odds of everything unless the car was involed in a front end collision).

If your car is overboosting with a stock tune then you have something wrong with the car. A possible reason why the custom tune works fine is because the tune is custom around the issue your having so once you fix that issue the tune will be off. With 150k miles I'd simply replace all vacuum lines, and perform a boost leak test. I'm never tested my boost solenoids since they still work, but I'd look up a way to test them or simply replace them. Since you in CA you definitly want to get what ever is wrong fixed since your probably going to end up with crappy gas mileage.

There is always a chance you have upgraded turbos, but upgraded turbos wont cause the issues your having. Your just going to have to start trouble shooting and go from there.

[Nero10578]

Originally Posted by buster84

I was going to say if the dealer did make that claim or if you want to argue your case that you were sold a modified you should get this. Thats one of the lowest miles ive seen on an n54 in a long time.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1623778

As for the upgraded turbos, The only thing bigger turbos actually do is provide you more power. For example, with stock turbos at 8psi you will net 300hp, but with upgdraded turbos that push more CFM you will probably be at 350hp or more depending on the size of the turbo at the same psi. Turbos have no effect on overboost.

If your car is overboosting its from a boost leak somewhere after the turbos (charge pipe, couplers, BOV), boost solenoids, vacuum lines, sticking turbo wastegates, or a leaking intercooler (which has the lowest odds of everything unless the car was involed in a front end collision).

If your car is overboosting with a stock tune then you have something wrong with the car. A possible reason why the custom tune works fine is because the tune is custom around the issue your having so once you fix that issue the tune will be off. With 150k miles I'd simply replace all vacuum lines, and perform a boost leak test. I'm never tested my boost solenoids since they still work, but I'd look up a way to test them or simply replace them. Since you in CA you definitly want to get what ever is wrong fixed since your probably going to end up with crappy gas mileage.

There is always a chance you have upgraded turbos, but upgraded turbos wont cause the issues your having. Your just going to have to start trouble shooting and go from there.

Well that is a nice car, but that's twice what I paid for this E90 lol...

Wouldn't a boost leak mean an underboost issue not an overboost? I definitely get that something may be wrong that the tune is compensating though but if the solenoids or vacuum lines were faulty causing the wategate to be stuck closed wouldn't it mean a higher WGDC wouldn't increase boost further? Because on Wedge's tune I wasn't hitting his targets on the first revision and he added more WGDC on the second revision map and it made more boost.

Vacuum lines were replaced already and the car has over 16mpg with me mostly using it around the city rarely on freeways. So that's already better than my old E92 N54.

[buster84]

Originally Posted by Nero10578

Well that is a nice car, but that's twice what I paid for this E90 lol...

Wouldn't a boost leak mean an underboost issue not an overboost? I definitely get that something may be wrong that the tune is compensating though but if the solenoids or vacuum lines were faulty causing the wategate to be stuck closed wouldn't it mean a higher WGDC wouldn't increase boost further? Because on Wedge's tune I wasn't hitting his targets on the first revision and he added more WGDC on the second revision map and it made more boost.

Vacuum lines were replaced already and the car has over 16mpg with me mostly using it around the city rarely on freeways. So that's already better than my old E92 N54.

Gas mileage doesnt sound bad for mostly city. As for the boost leaks you have to understand how it works. When you are leaking out air the ECU has to compensate by increasing the wgdc to allow the turbos to hit the target and depending on the leak size (and since the computer isnt perfect) the ecu will over compensate for the leak which results in some overboosting.

The wgdc is usually lower happens when you remove airway restrictions (upgraded outlets/inlets), install upgraded turbos, or newer low mileage oem turbos. Another possability that comes to mind is sticking wastegates where the wastgate gets stuck. For example, lets say the ECU raises the wastegate to 60% duty cycle and since our computer is always adapting on the fly it will try and lower the duty cycle to be more effient if it can. Then if the wastegate are sticking (mild to fully stuck) the ecu will keep lowering the wgdc down until it sees a digital change. This would also explain your overboost issues.

The best way to test the wastegates is to remove the downpipes and apply vaccum to the wastegates and observe them opening and closing. Here are some posts that sound like similar issues your having. Do you have any wastegate rattle?

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=733677
https://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33379

[Nero10578]

Originally Posted by buster84

Gas mileage doesnt sound bad for mostly city. As for the boost leaks you have to understand how it works. When you are leaking out air the ECU has to compensate by increasing the wgdc to allow the turbos to hit the target and depending on the leak size (and since the computer isnt perfect) the ecu will over compensate for the leak which results in some overboosting.

The wgdc is usually lower happens when you remove airway restrictions (upgraded outlets/inlets), install upgraded turbos, or newer low mileage oem turbos. Another possability that comes to mind is sticking wastegates where the wastgate gets stuck. For example, lets say the ECU raises the wastegate to 60% duty cycle and since our computer is always adapting on the fly it will try and lower the duty cycle to be more effient if it can. Then if the wastegate are sticking (mild to fully stuck) the ecu will keep lowering the wgdc down until it sees a digital change. This would also explain your overboost issues.

The best way to test the wastegates is to remove the downpipes and apply vaccum to the wastegates and observe them opening and closing. Here are some posts that sound like similar issues your having. Do you have any wastegate rattle?

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=733677
https://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33379

Ah yes but I was never underboosting at all unlike those other threads, it was overboost from spoolup and the ECU adjusted the WGDC down not adding more. but the adjustment must have a liit to how much it deviated from the map WGDC because it still overboost.

The WGDC was lower than my stock turbos E92 and still it was overboosting, also like I said I doubt its sticking because adding mroe WGDC added more boost without an issue with the custom tune. I was thinking maybe the wastegates were misadjusted? But then again do you think its normal for stock turbos to be able to hit 17psi at redline with stock everything? My car is completely stock. Car has no wastegate rattle at all too.

Either ways I think we're getting nowhere here so the only sure fire way of finding out is to check when I get downpipes eventually I guess.

[buster84]

Originally Posted by Nero10578

Ah yes but I was never underboosting at all unlike those other threads, it was overboost from spoolup and the ECU adjusted the WGDC down not adding more. but the adjustment must have a liit to how much it deviated from the map WGDC because it still overboost.

The WGDC was lower than my stock turbos E92 and still it was overboosting, also like I said I doubt its sticking because adding mroe WGDC added more boost without an issue with the custom tune. I was thinking maybe the wastegates were misadjusted? But then again do you think its normal for stock turbos to be able to hit 17psi at redline with stock everything? My car is completely stock. Car has no wastegate rattle at all too.

Either ways I think we're getting nowhere here so the only sure fire way of finding out is to check when I get downpipes eventually I guess.

I'm not to sure about the max boost a stock turbo can go to at redline, but you are holding 16psi to redline pretty well. Then again I have seen similar stock turbo n54s keep 20 psi to redline. I did a quick search and i find this guy who looks like they tried to max out the turbos. This log shows that he was running abover 20 psi to redline, it kina looks like it might be 22psi ish, but the chart is hard to read. I wished they had a csv file uploaded to know for sure.

https://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37150
https://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29669

I was looking at your logs again and I noticed a pattern, your throttle isnt closing all the way. Your max seems to show up as 81 and your recent log is labled as a supernock, so im wondering if maybe your having issues with your throttlebody. Have you ever reset your throttle adaptations?

https://datazap.me/u/owenarliawan/ac...data=2-3-22-25
https://datazap.me/u/owenarliawan/ac...data=2-3-22-25
https://datazap.me/u/owenarliawan/su...data=2-3-22-25

I was looking up throttle issues and found this post, I never knew that the throttle affected the boost, so maybe your slight throttle issue is affecting the boost somehow. I'd suggest doing a full adaptation reset including your throttle body in mhd and do a new log.

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

That may not be actual boost, is your throttle closing? You need to log CAN DBW. If your throttle closes it will induce an inflated reading of boost.

For comparison purposes, this is a log of my car last month. As you can see my throttle stays open at 100

https://datazap.me/u/buster84/e75-lo...0&data=1-4-5-9

[buster84]

I looked through all the logs you had public and their is a pattern. Not only is your throttle maxing at 81% but you also have a small period in every log where your throttle drops down to 30-37% which is very abnormal. I tried to create a picture to show what I'm talking about. I dont log with MHD so its possible that maybe the 81% is the MHD maximum for throttle position (hopefully someone can answer if this is the case or not).

You definitly have something going on in th earlier rpms and I'm not sure what it is since I've never seen this type of issue before, but if i had to guess i want to say traction control? Hopefully someone who's seen this before has a fix or can tell you where to start trouble shooting.

Are you getting any codes?

Edit: it looks like 81 is the max throttle position for MHD so your throttle is maxingout, but your having some major throttle closure early on in your logs. I also came accross a good tech article that explains everything about WGDC and after reading it myself and getting a better understanding im starting to think maybe your wastegates were adjusted to hide a wastegate rattle before the car was sold and they might have now been over adjusted causing the issues your seeing? Its hard to say, the best way to test them is a vaccum pump with the downpipes disconnted that way you can see exactly what vacuum number opens and closes the wastegates.

[Nero10578]

Originally Posted by buster84

I looked through all the logs you had public and their is a pattern. Not only is your throttle maxing at 81% but you also have a small period in every log where your throttle drops down to 30-37% which is very abnormal. I tried to create a picture to show what I'm talking about. I dont log with MHD so its possible that maybe the 81% is the MHD maximum for throttle position (hopefully someone can answer if this is the case or not).

You definitly have something going on in th earlier rpms and I'm not sure what it is since I've never seen this type of issue before, but if i had to guess i want to say traction control? Hopefully someone who's seen this before has a fix or can tell you where to start trouble shooting.

Are you getting any codes?

Edit: it looks like 81 is the max throttle position for MHD so your throttle is maxingout, but your having some major throttle closure early on in your logs. I also came accross a good tech article that explains everything about WGDC and after reading it myself and getting a better understanding im starting to think maybe your wastegates were adjusted to hide a wastegate rattle before the car was sold and they might have now been over adjusted causing the issues your seeing? Its hard to say, the best way to test them is a vaccum pump with the downpipes disconnted that way you can see exactly what vacuum number opens and closes the wastegates.

Hey man sorry I forgot to reply. Thanks for all the input, yea on MHD the max throttle opening is just 81 so that's normal. Also the throttle closures at low RPM is because of boost building quickly there, which according to Wedge is just fine. Your theory of the wastegates being overadjusted may make some sense though, but I just posted a some latest logs now after I did an intercooler upgrade which dropped the psi at redline to 14-15psi at first. If the wastegates are indeed adjusted wouldn't it take a stock turbo 100% WGDC to hold 16-17psi redline on stock inlets so wouldn't increased WGDC not add more boost? But now after what I assume an adaptation period, in my last log the turbo WGDC is upped a bit and I am now making 16-17psi at redline again with a slightly higher WGDC after the intercooler upgrade. So that tells me the turbos still have more to give now.

I mean there's still no sure fire way until I take a look at the turbos themselves on a downpipe or inlet install though. But one more clue I found was that the 1st bank o2 sensor cable on my car is for some reason pinched by the rear turbo inlet so that would indicate to me tampering or something with the turbos or inlets before.

[buster84]

Originally Posted by Nero10578

Hey man sorry I forgot to reply. Thanks for all the input, yea on MHD the max throttle opening is just 81 so that's normal. Also the throttle closures at low RPM is because of boost building quickly there, which according to Wedge is just fine. Your theory of the wastegates being overadjusted may make some sense though, but I just posted a some latest logs now after I did an intercooler upgrade which dropped the psi at redline to 14-15psi at first. If the wastegates are indeed adjusted wouldn't it take a stock turbo 100% WGDC to hold 16-17psi redline on stock inlets so wouldn't increased WGDC not add more boost? But now after what I assume an adaptation period, in my last log the turbo WGDC is upped a bit and I am now making 16-17psi at redline again with a slightly higher WGDC after the intercooler upgrade. So that tells me the turbos still have more to give now.

I mean there's still no sure fire way until I take a look at the turbos themselves on a downpipe or inlet install though. But one more clue I found was that the 1st bank o2 sensor cable on my car is for some reason pinched by the rear turbo inlet so that would indicate to me tampering or something with the turbos or inlets before.

Dont worry about the late reply lol, we all have busy lives and the last thing we all need to do is stay on this forum 24/7. Did you happen to read the PDF I uploaded? Its a good read and explains alot about the electonics and how it reads the psi electronically instead of actually reading it mechanically like with a boost guage connected to your charge pipe.

Anyways, from what I can see you dont have stage 2+ turbos, but there is always a chance that maybe you got a brand new set of stock turbos that are running perfectly (did hapen to call the dealers from the service history to see if turbos got repalced under warranty?) or maybe you have a set of rebuilt stock/stage 1 turbos from Vargas, RB, or another company like pure (if they make them).

Upgraded turbos with at least a 16T propellor would allow you to maintain 20+ psi to redline without the need to taper. A simple way to test this would be to ask wedge to send you a tune that targets a much higher PSI of say 22-25 psi to about 6k rpms and see how that works out on 1 log. If the car falls flat on its face and looses power then the turbos are either stock or stage 1 with minor upgrades/to the wastgates that could give you about 25- 50hp more over stock.

As long as your happy with your car, the price you paid, and how its running then thats all that matters.

[Nero10578]

Originally Posted by buster84

Dont worry about the late reply lol, we all have busy lives and the last thing we all need to do is stay on this forum 24/7. Did you happen to read the PDF I uploaded? Its a good read and explains alot about the electonics and how it reads the psi electronically instead of actually reading it mechanically like with a boost guage connected to your charge pipe.

Anyways, from what I can see you dont have stage 2+ turbos, but there is always a chance that maybe you got a brand new set of stock turbos that are running perfectly (did hapen to call the dealers from the service history to see if turbos got repalced under warranty?) or maybe you have a set of rebuilt stock/stage 1 turbos from Vargas, RB, or another company like pure (if they make them).

Upgraded turbos with at least a 16T propellor would allow you to maintain 20+ psi to redline without the need to taper. A simple way to test this would be to ask wedge to send you a tune that targets a much higher PSI of say 22-25 psi to about 6k rpms and see how that works out on 1 log. If the car falls flat on its face and looses power then the turbos are either stock or stage 1 with minor upgrades/to the wastgates that could give you about 25- 50hp more over stock.

As long as your happy with your car, the price you paid, and how its running then thats all that matters.

Yea I agree, these are definitely not stage 2 turbos or anything crazy haha. Stage 1 or minor upgraded ones like you said seems about right, I am currently waiting for Wedge to reply back and send a new higher psi revision of the tune because before we were waiting for me to install the intercooler since that was the limiting factor. But so far if the WGDC is 60%~ at redline and at 17 psi I would think at 80% or more WGDC I could make at least 19-20psi but I guess we'll see lol. Hey either ways its faster than my old car and I didn't pay for the turbos so I'm happy lol

Also, I couldn't open the pdf...

[buster84]

Originally Posted by Nero10578

Yea I agree, these are definitely not stage 2 turbos or anything crazy haha. Stage 1 or minor upgraded ones like you said seems about right, I am currently waiting for Wedge to reply back and send a new higher psi revision of the tune because before we were waiting for me to install the intercooler since that was the limiting factor. But so far if the WGDC is 60%~ at redline and at 17 psi I would think at 80% or more WGDC I could make at least 19-20psi but I guess we'll see lol. Hey either ways its faster than my old car and I didn't pay for the turbos so I'm happy lol

Also, I couldn't open the pdf...

Did you also fix your LPFP? Your low pressure fuel pump was in the 40's and 30's in the last log. I wouldnt go any higher in boost until you fix that though. You can either DIY a walbro 450 stage 1 pump setup (around $150 in parts) or buy a premade stage 1 or 2 pump setup thats already built, or a diy stage 1/2 pump setup first.

Here are some good ones

Precision raceworks
Fuel-it

I'm not sure why the pdf didnt work. It was VTT explaining why you cant use WGDC to determine if your turbos are maxing out or not. I've converted it to JPG's so i'll attach it that way.

[Nero10578]

Originally Posted by buster84

Did you also fix your LPFP? Your low pressure fuel pump was in the 40's and 30's in the last log. I wouldnt go any higher in boost until you fix that though. You can either DIY a walbro 450 stage 1 pump setup (around $150 in parts) or buy a premade stage 1 or 2 pump setup thats already built, or a diy stage 1/2 pump setup first.

Here are some good ones

Precision raceworks
Fuel-it

I'm not sure why the pdf didnt work. It was VTT explaining why you cant use WGDC to determine if your turbos are maxing out or not. I've converted it to JPG's so i'll attach it that way.

Yea I haven't done anything to the LPFP but somehow its now staying at 50psi or more at WOT to redline if you see my latest logs. But that will be my next upgrade, I'm looking to get the Precision Raceworks Stage 2+ modular LPFP kit.

Thanks for the PDF, that teached me something new. I guess it could possibly be that my actuators are fudged or something then, well won't know for sure till we see if my car can boost more or not. But almost 17psi at redline seems promising.