[vince.salg]

I was driving normally and I get a check engine light, then my car starts to sound and shake like a misfire. I clear the codes so I can at least get home but when I turn on the car it shakes super hard and sounds like it's gonna give out.

Anyone have an idea to what could be causing this or any tips to what to look for?

[dpaul]

2a87 Exhaust VANOS
29cc Multiple misfires
3100 Boost deactivation
30f0 Superknock cylinder 4

Likely last 3 are the result of first (i.e. exhaust vanos solenoid, sensor or adjustment unit). But you don’t give very much info regarding history, mods so who knows

Super knock is a serious issue and you don’t want to drive around with this problem.

Start by clearing the codes and see which come back.

[vince.salg]

Originally Posted by dpaul

2a87 Exhaust VANOS
29cc Multiple misfires
3100 Boost deactivation
30f0 Superknock cylinder 4

Likely last 3 are the result of first (i.e. exhaust vanos solenoid, sensor or adjustment unit). But you don’t give very much info regarding history, mods so who knows

Super knock is a serious issue and you don’t want to drive around with this problem.

Start by clearing the codes and see which come back.

Sorry it's FBO and MHD Stage 2+ tune.

I tried clearing the codes so I could at least drove home without having to get towed but no luck. So then I decided to flash the stock map and it sounded and felt better but was still misfiring too much to drive.

When I got home I just checked the spark plugs and coils (had 20k miles since I replaced them), reset the codes and still misfired only. I don't get any other codes except multiple misfires.

So then I did a little more research and decided to clean the vanos solenoids. Upon cleaning them they looked completely fine (for a 80k mile n54) but did it anyway.

I cleared the codes again and my misfires and superknocking went away.

(Should I delete this thread?)

[Donutz]

Don't delete the thread, replace the solenoids. Very likely the codes will come back in the future.

[dpaul]

Good for you - cleaning never worked for me.

Don't delete the post. There's value for others in hearing about your experience

[vince.salg]

Originally Posted by dpaul

Good for you - cleaning never worked for me.

Don't delete the post. There's value for others in hearing about your experience

Never mind a little after driving it there a code again.

I'm assuming I'm going to have to replace the boost solenoid for the code 3100

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by vince.salg

Never mind a little after driving it there a code again.

I'm assuming I'm going to have to replace the boost solenoid for the code 3100

3100 usually happens in conjunction with other codes or a vacuum / boost leak, so I would not consider anything with that code first.

Did your vanos solenoid code return? Start by replacing the exhaust vanos solenoid (honestly, you should replace both, and if all you did was clean and reinstall in the original
Spot, as opposed to clean and switch them, could explain your recurring issue).

[vince.salg]

Originally Posted by Jklad

3100 usually happens in conjunction with other codes or a vacuum / boost leak, so I would not consider anything with that code first.

Did you vanish solenoid code return? Start by replacing the exhaust vanos solenoid (honestly, you should replace both, and if all you did was clean and reinstall in the original
Spot, as opposed to clean and switch, could explain your recurring issue).

I recently replaced all the vacuum lines 3k miles ago, so I'm pretty sure it's not that. As for the vanos solenoids I did switch there spots from one to the other.

The thing that throws me off is that I've always hit my target boost, and haven't had any boost issues and then all of a sudden I got all the codes in the attached picture while driving casual. So there was no sign like not hitting target boost that something was going to fail.

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by vince.salg

I recently replaced all the vacuum lines 3k miles ago, so I'm pretty sure it's not that. As for the vanos solenoids I did switch there spots from one to the other.

The thing that throws me off is that I've always hit my target boost, and haven't had any boost issues and then all of a sudden I got all the codes in the attached picture while driving casual. So there was no sign like not hitting target boost that something was going to fail.

Do things in the proper order. Since you tried switching the solenoids and that didn't work (which is a waste of time imo), then next step is to replace with new vanos solenoids. Replace both with bmw branded parts, they are cheap around $100 or so.

If you still are getting the 2a87 after that, next place to look is at the cam bearing ledge. So rule out the simpler inexpensive stuff first.

Don't worry about the other codes yet as they are likely a result of the 2a87 issue which can cause things to run like crap for a while.

[arkie6]

The VANOS solenoids are really simple devices and easy to test. Just get a small 9V battery and some jumper wires with alligator clips and energize the solenoid terminals (it isn't polarity sensitive - you can swap the + and - back and forth). When you touch the last terminal to complete the circuit you should see the solenoid internals move if the solenoid coil is working correctly and isn't stuck. It is also a good idea to spray some penetrating cleaner / lubricant such as Seafoam or even WD-40 inside the solenoid mechanism while cycling the valve back and forth with the 9V battery supply to help clean it. You can check out youtube videos on this solenoid testing/cleaning.

Low oil pressure supplied to the VANOS solenoids can also cause the VANOS errors. There are two pre-filters with check valves in the oil supply to the VANOS solenoids. If these get clogged from sludge due to infrequent oil changes and/or inferior quality oil that is run hot and too long, then oil pressure to the solenoids can be degraded and result in the errors. These filters / non-return valves are located on the front right side of the engine. There are youtube videos on this as well.

Another thing that can cause low oil pressure to the solenoids is low overall engine oil pressure. This can and has been caused by failures to check/replace the oil filter housing cover center cage with the oil drain hole sealing tip and o-ring. This can happen when someone unfamiliar with BMW engines (i.e. 10 min oil change place) changes the oil and inadvertently tosses the oil filter cage when they try to remove a stuck oil filter (often times not an OEM oil filter such as MANN or Mahle). This is easy to check by just removing the oil filter cap and verifying the oil filter cage is installed and if so, verifying the oil filter housing drain sealing tip has the small o-ring installed.

[vince.salg]

Originally Posted by arkie6

The VANOS solenoids are really simple devices and easy to test. Just get a small 9V battery and some jumper wires with alligator clips and energize the solenoid terminals (it isn't polarity sensitive - you can swap the + and - back and forth). When you touch the last terminal to complete the circuit you should see the solenoid internals move if the solenoid coil is working correctly and isn't stuck. It is also a good idea to spray some penetrating cleaner / lubricant such as Seafoam or even WD-40 inside the solenoid mechanism while cycling the valve back and forth with the 9V battery supply to help clean it. You can check out youtube videos on this solenoid testing/cleaning.

Low oil pressure supplied to the VANOS solenoids can also cause the VANOS errors. There are two pre-filters with check valves in the oil supply to the VANOS solenoids. If these get clogged from sludge due to infrequent oil changes and/or inferior quality oil that is run hot and too long, then oil pressure to the solenoids can be degraded and result in the errors. These filters / non-return valves are located on the front right side of the engine. There are youtube videos on this as well.

Another thing that can cause low oil pressure to the solenoids is low overall engine oil pressure. This can and has been caused by failures to check/replace the oil filter housing cover center cage with the oil drain hole sealing tip and o-ring. This can happen when someone unfamiliar with BMW engines (i.e. 10 min oil change place) changes the oil and inadvertently tosses the oil filter cage when they try to remove a stuck oil filter (often times not an OEM oil filter such as MANN or Mahle). This is easy to check by just removing the oil filter cap and verifying the oil filter cage is installed and if so, verifying the oil filter housing drain sealing tip has the small o-ring installed.

I decided to do an oil change since it's been 4K miles since I did my last one (I've been reading the dirty oil/ old oil can clog up the vanos sensors.)
Also with that I decided to clean the cons sensors again since my oil change and also cleaned my vanos filters.
I cleared the codes, started up the car again and luckily I had no errors or codes yet. (:
I'm gonna drive the car around for a bit to see if it throws any code again. Depending on the code I'll problem from there based on the above recommendations

[vince.salg]

I started hearing a weird ticking noise around the engine under throttle acceleration starting abounds 1500rpm.
(Link)

So I decided to check around the engine from the top and didn't see anything. Then I proceeded to check underneath and after looking around for some time I saw that the coupler connecting the intercooler to the chargepipe. I'm assuming the vacuum leak from this maybe caused all the codes to be thrown.

[vince.salg]

Originally Posted by vince.salg

I started hearing a weird ticking noise around the engine under throttle acceleration starting abounds 1500rpm.
(Link)

So I decided to check around the engine from the top and didn't see anything. Then I proceeded to check underneath and after looking around for some time I saw that the coupler connecting the intercooler to the chargepipe. I'm assuming the vacuum leak from this maybe caused all the codes to be thrown.

Actually that ticking noise is still present even after I adjusted and replaced the coupler. Any ideas to what could be causing it?

[arkie6]

Did you verify the oil filter plastic cage was installed in your oil filter housing cap? If that is missing, you will have low oil pressure and a noisy engine.

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by vince.salg

Actually that ticking noise is still present even after I adjusted and replaced the coupler. Any ideas to what could be causing it?

Ticking noise? - All I hear is banging that sounds like a rod bearing.