[ar design]

The colors may look somewhat similar if its dark, but I have never seen a car with the same color sleeves. The shorter downpipe for the rear turbo uses the grey sleeves, the front turbo / longer DP uses the black sleeves.

Can you post a pic of threads? Can probably tell you if they are repairable. The only thing that can be done to fix the threads is purchase an M18x1.5 die from a place like Ace Hardware and chase the threads

[2jzn54]

Took the sensor to a tool and die shop (obv for commercial/industrial use) not for me. I was pretty sure the threads were shot, but they confirmed it for me. I ended up buying used o2 sensors (have an extra now if someone needs one) and will be lowering the pipes and installing this weekend.

If you would like a picture for reference or other people to use I will be happy to do so.

Andrew: I do seem to be developing some wastegate rattle. Any suggestions? Do I need to adjust the DPs? and if so how do you recommend I do so to ensure the rattle doesn't come back?

[ar design]

Wastegate ratte = new turbos. Downpipes just make the rattle more audible since their is no longer a cat to muffle the noise.

[ChuckD05]

Yea I'm talking about the sleeve color.

I believe my rear o2s are switched. Causing the car to drive pretty normal until I get on it where it occasionally but not always starts throwing o2 codes.

Pictures of which o2 is where and the color sleeve on both upstream and Downstream would be extremely helpful! Thanks for the help fella's. Always appreciated.

[2jzn54]

Originally Posted by ar design

Wastegate ratte = new turbos. Downpipes just make the rattle more audible since their is no longer a cat to muffle the noise.

Had my wastegate actuators replaced recently actually.. I actually have the catted DPs not the catless. This fixed the issue for a bit, but the noise has beome quite audible and warranty due to age not miles has recently expired. Coming back to them without facotry DPs doesn't seem like the best idea..

[2jzn54]

Originally Posted by ChuckD05

Yea I'm talking about the sleeve color.

I believe my rear o2s are switched. Causing the car to drive pretty normal until I get on it where it occasionally but not always starts throwing o2 codes.

Pictures of which o2 is where and the color sleeve on both upstream and Downstream would be extremely helpful! Thanks for the help fella's. Always appreciated.

Hmm. I've been riding around with an empty bung for a little bit.

I'll snap some pictures tonight/tomorow and post. Feel free to get on my case if I'm slow to upload the pics.

[ChuckD05]

Thanks !

Yea I'm really not sure. I have to get this in someones hands with right diagnostic tools and knowledge of this car.

All I can do is confirm they are in thr correct locations lol

[335iJWC]

Feel free to get on my case if I'm slow to upload the pics.
pics! pics! pics!

[ChuckD05]

If anyone can confirm looking up into the area of the turbos the grey o2 sleeve is in the u2 that's harder to get to and the one closer to you has a black sleeve ?

[335iJWC]

here is a Pic from the DIY that i used

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ghlight=DP+DIY

very help full

[ChuckD05]

that picture still has me confused because they are oem ans they use a diff sEt but i do believe my primarys are in the right spot but my rears are not.... and theres no clear pics of rear o2 location

[mikeith]

man and i thought my install went rough! mine just took a long time but i made sure to take my time since it was my first go round. literally 6 hours but i think i could cut that in half easily next time now that i know the bumps i ran in to last time and things i can do to save time. i also took a 30-45 minute break between takeout and install to eat so really not quite 6 hours.

it felt punchy as hell as soon as i got done but i dont believe on running too hard when low on gas... so i went to fill up. while waiting i decided to be "safe" and reset the autotuning perimeters on the V5 and when i left it didnt feel NEAR as strong(i'm new to piggybacks so i just run it at map 1 and left the recommended settings as is)

[2jzn54]

Originally Posted by mikeith

man and i thought my install went rough! mine just took a long time but i made sure to take my time since it was my first go round. literally 6 hours but i think i could cut that in half easily next time now that i know the bumps i ran in to last time and things i can do to save time. i also took a 30-45 minute break between takeout and install to eat so really not quite 6 hours.

it felt punchy as hell as soon as i got done but i dont believe on running too hard when low on gas... so i went to fill up. while waiting i decided to be "safe" and reset the autotuning perimeters on the V5 and when i left it didnt feel NEAR as strong(i'm new to piggybacks so i just run it at map 1 and left the recommended settings as is)

May just need some time to learn it? Don't know much about the V5 unfortunately..

[2jzn54]

Originally Posted by ChuckD05

that picture still has me confused because they are oem ans they use a diff sEt but i do believe my primarys are in the right spot but my rears are not.... and theres no clear pics of rear o2 location

Chuck. Will post some pictures later, but for the time being.. The DP closer to the side of the car should use the grey one while the DP closer to mid of the car should have the black one.. If that doesn't clear it up this will. The PITA o2 bung should have the grey one in there and the sensor you have the ability to remove without touching anything should be the black one.

[ChuckD05]

any tips on how to get passenger rear o2 out with exhaust installed? the one on top of the downpipe... my rears are def swapped and shop cant get me in until tuesday

[2jzn54]

Originally Posted by ChuckD05

any tips on how to get passenger rear o2 out with exhaust installed? the one on top of the downpipe... my rears are def swapped and shop cant get me in until tuesday

Honestly I had to get one in that bung last night and fortunately I have a pretty narrow wrist.. I just got on my belly no shit.. and got it in with my left hand just letting the area scrape me up a bit. Secured the thread was in place then used a small adjustable wrench that could expand out that far. It was pretty blindly done from there since you have to position yourself so awkwardly, but I had a buddy and we just had one of us get under from the right of the car and just guide the guy wrenching... Real PITA, but can certainly be done.

[ChuckD05]

ssharma you are talking about the rear o2 right? or the primary one thats also a pita...

piccs yet ? lol

[2jzn54]

Yes I am talking about the rears.. Unfortunately we're having some issues out of the blue with my friend's car.. I'll get them up as soon as I can. Sorry about that.

[Brandxnvv]

Installed my catless downpipes & it’s still going into safety mode to map4. Had a front 02 code before but thought if I put catless DP in it would be fine. I left my rear 02 sensors out because they are useless now without a Cat. Will a bad front 02 sensor still cause jb4 go into safety mode?

[type-dRew]

Originally Posted by Brandxnvv

Installed my catless downpipes & it’s still going into safety mode to map4. Had a front 02 code before but thought if I put catless DP in it would be fine. I left my rear 02 sensors out because they are useless now without a Cat. Will a bad front 02 sensor still cause jb4 go into safety mode?

You thought catless downpipes would fix a sensor problem? What?

You didnt install new sensors when you did the downpipes?

The rear sensor are still used by the dme even with cat efficiency codes turned off, they are required for the dme to work correctly against fuel trims.

Your solution is new front o2 sensors and installing your rear o2 sensors.