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BMW touch up paint: how thick is your clearcoat?
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04-07-2014, 08:30 PM | #1 |
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BMW touch up paint: how thick is your clearcoat?
I just opened my OEM BMW touch up paint kit to do some repairs on my car's paint. I bought this touch up kit from the dealer about a year ago and it was lying around unopened all that time.
As you know, the kit contains two small bottles: the paint and the clearcoat. The paint itself looks fine to me, it is very fluid and flows well. It works with both a fine brush and a toothpick, meaning that I can deliver it to the target area using surface tension/capillary action. I can easily use it to make a number of thin coats. However, the clear coat from the same package is a completely different story. It has the consistency a household glue (ShoeGoo or something like that). It does not flow at all. I can't deliver it by a toothpick, since it is simply too thick to flow from a toothpick. Basically, in order to apply that clearcoat I will have to forcefully smear it over the target area, like peanut butter on a toast. So, my question is: is this how it is supposed to be with that BMW clearcoat? Is it supposed to be that thick? Or did mine simply go sour during that year (i.e. dried out due to the bottle cap not being airtight enough)? Last edited by AndreyT; 04-07-2014 at 09:41 PM.. |
04-09-2014, 12:36 PM | #4 |
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+1, I've found the results to be better without adding the clear coat.
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04-09-2014, 12:55 PM | #5 |
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That's something I thought about as well, i.e. to use a paint thinner of some sort. But I don't know what kind of thinner I should use with this specific kind of clearcoat. What did you use?
Last edited by AndreyT; 04-09-2014 at 03:23 PM.. |
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04-29-2014, 05:43 PM | #7 |
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Well, after a while I can say that the clearcoat actually worked pretty well. Yes, it formed an ugly blob at first, but it "deflated" after I let it dry for about three weeks. I sanded and polished it and it did blend with the surrounding clearcoat perfectly.
Now I see that it is actually the basecoat that seems to be far from perfect. The Deep Sea Blue Metallic (A76) from the OEM touch up kit looks a lot darker than the original paint. I have a spray can of A76 from AutomotoveTouchup.com (which I bought to paint a replacement tow hook hatch) and it seems to be a much better match to my paint than the OEM touch up kit. In fact, the paint from AutomotoveTouchup.com (and their clearcoat) looks just perfect. The OEM stuff is not nearly so. |
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10-29-2019, 03:00 PM | #8 |
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Bumping old thread.
The clear coat I have in the touch-up pack is goopy and thick. I would prefer to touch up using only the base color, which for me is A35 Monaco Blue. I can think of two purposes to touching up paint for stone chips or door dings. 1, it restores the appearance of the paint to a more uniform look, which is appealing. The second reason I think is the more important one - to cover up any bare body panel where the metal could be exposed to the elements and be compromised (rust). So, is there any risk to touching up the paint without applying clear, using only the base colour? Obviously the touched-up paint is uncovered, but since it's already on top of the factory paint it is never going to be perfect. BTW, the A35 touch-up paint I have is noticeably darker than the paint on my car. Seems consistent with the posts above. Edit: I found a great video from Larry at AmmoNYC who answered a few of these questions. With the weather getting colder I'm not sure how much of these steps I'll be able to follow but seems like the answers to my questions. For this winter i'll probably just touch up with the colour for protection, then maybe in the spring go through the full process.
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Last edited by leif20; 10-29-2019 at 03:24 PM.. Reason: useful video |
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