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Aftermarket comp set wiring question
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03-03-2020, 03:26 PM | #1 |
YNWA
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Aftermarket comp set wiring question
At least regarding the hi-fi setup (tweeters, 4" F/R woofers, 8" underseat midbass)...
For those fitting aftermarket comp sets of 4" woofers and tweeters with aftermarket amp, are you using (repurposing) the stock wiring for the door midwoofer, and then running new wires from the passive crossover (in the trunk or door or wherever) to the tweeters? It looks like Hi-fi sys has the tweeters in parallel with a cap to filter out freq below the x-over. So if I want to use factory wiring to the door speakers, then I should be able to simply cut the wiring going to the cap and tweeter right? Then run my new wires for the tweeters? Just wanting to confirm. I only have experience with e36/e46 5.25" speakers and tweeters having their own channel and wiring. I'd prefer not to run my own wiring into the door. I've always been able to use the stock wiring, splicing in at the trunk amp harness (I mount passive x-overs in trunk) Thanks!
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/// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6MT · Slicktop · zero options
/// 2011 Jerez/Bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · IG: @na.s54 |
03-04-2020, 12:04 PM | #3 |
YNWA
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Thanks for responding, but none of that is my question.
I've done numerous installs, but I'm new to e8x/e9x so what I'm asking is, can you use the factory speaker wires even though the stock mid and tweeter are on the same channel? Can I use those stock wires for the 4" mid and then snip the stock wiring before the tweeter, then run my own wiring for the aftermarket tweeter?
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/// 2011 Jerez/Bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · IG: @na.s54 |
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03-04-2020, 01:52 PM | #4 |
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If you are using the stock Hi Fi wiring it's been said by experts
here it's good for up to 150 watts a channel. I don't know why you would snip anything you can get connectors for. connectors http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...9&postcount=19 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ower+Connector connectors1 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...9&postcount=19 |
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03-04-2020, 02:04 PM | #5 |
YNWA
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That's good to know, thanks. My eclipse is 140 @ 2ohm iirc, though my speakers are 4 ohm(3.4 iirc).
I'm not looking to use stock connectors or run my tweeters off the stock wiring, just the door mids. I don't want to run new wires for the mids. My only concern is that the stock tweets and mids are on the same channel. If I use the stock wiring for the doors, I don't want to also be powering the stock tweets (as I'll be running aftermarket tweeters on their own line). I can't think of a clearer way to ask. What does the wiring look like for the door 4" mid to the tweeter? Is the cap inline, after the mid - in which case I can terminate the wiring after the door (because I don't want to power the tweeters with this wire). Does that make sense? i don't know how else to explain it. I'm going to remove the rear speakers altogether. I want to reuse the stock wiring and stock 8" midbass. I want to reuse stock wiring for front door 4" mids, but I'll run new wires for my tweeters.
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/// 2011 Jerez/Bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · IG: @na.s54 |
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03-04-2020, 05:58 PM | #6 |
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The tweeter comes with a wire that goes to the mid
and the cap is contained in that wire. If you are going active on the doors you will have to string another wire into the door. Last edited by ctuna; 03-04-2020 at 06:18 PM.. |
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03-04-2020, 06:06 PM | #7 |
YNWA
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Not active, I have passive crossovers that I mount in the trunk where the stock speaker wires are and new amp.
So about that wire you speak of containing the cap... can I not simply terminate that wire so that the front channel will only power the 4" and the stock tweeter will not receive power right? I already know I have to run new lines for the tweeters and run my rcas back and the remote wire, but I really don't want to run new wire into the doors. This has never been a problem on older bmws or other cars. This is just the first time I've come across an OEM setup where multiple speakers are on the same channel. Anyone install components and use the existing speaker wire to power the new 4" mids? For use with an aftermarket amp mind you, not simply plug-and-play speaker upgrade.
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/// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6MT · Slicktop · zero options
/// 2011 Jerez/Bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · IG: @na.s54 |
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03-04-2020, 06:13 PM | #8 |
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If you want two channels in the door this is simple you need to run
another wire into the door. If you want your crossover in the trunk you still need another set of wires to the doors . You would loose the capacitor in either case. See picture I just posted. Most people using a passive crossover put it in the door. You have to make the decision as to where you want the setting before you put it there. Negative -3db is the most common setting for the tweeter's used here. See pictures of tweeter I just posted in the last post. The bulge where the of the cap is displayed in the tweeter wire. Your new crossover should balance the power between the tweeter and mid no matter where it is located. By the way the stock speaker's suck all of them. That being said and amp ad's the most improvement as the stock Hi Fi amp sucks more. Last edited by ctuna; 03-04-2020 at 06:31 PM.. |
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03-04-2020, 06:36 PM | #9 |
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Thanks for the pic! No I know I can simply unplug the tweeter and I should be fine. I don't want 2 channels in the door, only 1 for the 4" mid. i then will run my own wire from the crossover in the trunk to my aftermarket tweeter than I'll dash mount.
I'll be mounting the crossovers in the trunk, did so on my E36 and E46, and it's always been fine. I do use nice speaker wire though (14g). And yes, -3 on the tweeters, crossovers have a switch for it. I just thought of something that might have been leading to confusion - I'm not trying to do all of this with the stock headunit and technic harness - I'm using an aftermarket head. I realize, many people retain the stock headunit, so they're mostly replacing the stock speakers with aftermarket, never paying any mind to the wiring/channels as it's plug-n-play for them. Thanks again for the help! If anyone's curious: Pioneer DEH-80PRS CDT audio HD-4 mids with ex530 xovers (4.3khz xover) CDT audio ws-100 1.1" tweeters Eclipse PA5422 Premier 85w x 4ch rms And instead of hamfisting my 8" kicker or trying unsuccessfully to blend the 4" and 10" sealed sub I have, I'm just going to reuse the stock 8". From what I'm reading here, they're actually nice speakers, just could use some real juice. I'll HPF the comp set & LPF the 8" at 200 and then HPF the 8"s at 50hz though Bill said they do play flat to 40.
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/// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6MT · Slicktop · zero options
/// 2011 Jerez/Bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · IG: @na.s54 |
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03-04-2020, 07:22 PM | #10 |
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https://www.e90post.com/forums/attac...3&d=1329017429
From https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=641323 entry 4 There are some other examples there. That suppose to be a High Audio quality head unit. |
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03-04-2020, 07:37 PM | #11 |
YNWA
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Awesome, that first link is great.
Yes, the pioneer is amazing. Almost too good for my type of music. It's a little cold. I actually prefer how my kenwood excelon 998 colors the sound, but the pioneer is superior (except for choice in slopes ).
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/// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6MT · Slicktop · zero options
/// 2011 Jerez/Bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · IG: @na.s54 |
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