[justinmaxon12]

hey guys, will be dropping subframe to check the oil pan as im in the dreaded shredded belt situation. i have seen write ups on regular rwd models but ppl have said there there are extra steps involved for the xdrive. i cant seem to find a good write up. any help or tips would be appreciated. even general tips on changing the oil pan gasket would be great because ive seen multiple videos and everyone seems to do it a little different.

[Soravia]

I have not seen any write up but you can look up my thread for some pics.
I can tell you that you have to

Disconnect strut top hats.
Disconnect brake lines (plug them using the plug on bleed nipples).
Disconnect brake sensor and ABS sensors.
Remove the front axles and front drive shaft if you want to remove oil pan (replace the bolts and the seals while at it).
Disconnect the engine mount top nut (and replace nut).
Hoist the engine up for room, it can go up 4" or more.
Remove the support pan and lower the front frame bolts while supporting the frame.

Remember to drain engine and front diff before starting all this. Also good idea to throw in magnetic drain plugs while you are there.

Engine oil pan needs new bolt set (one for auto and one for manual) and new oil meter gasket is good, too.

[torrque]

I left the suspension hanging in the shocks, and use some rope to move it out of the way. Did not have to touch this way anything to do with brakes, etc.

Remove front right axle before dropping subframe.

Magnetic drain plugs are a waste, there are very few magnetized metal components in bearings and engine in general which would be caught. And those are getting caught by the oil filter anyway.
I ran one for years in the M3 and never seen anything. When I had rod bearing problems, the magnet did not catch it, the filter did. It was aluminum .

[Soravia]

Originally Posted by torrque

I left the suspension hanging in the shocks, and use some rope to move it out of the way. Did not have to touch this way anything to do with brakes, etc.

Remove front right axle before dropping subframe.

Magnetic drain plugs are a waste, there are very few magnetized metal components in bearings and engine in general which would be caught. And those are getting caught by the oil filter anyway.
I ran one for years in the M3 and never seen anything. When I had rod bearing problems, the magnet did not catch it, the filter did. It was aluminum .

Magnet drain plugs work!
Transmission and diff gears shed metal shards all the time.

Your drain plug for engine works, too. Yes, filter catches them. But if you see stuff on the plug, you then know to immediately stop driving and not start the engine again.

[relative4]

PM me with your email address, and I'll send you my procedure document.

[torrque]

Originally Posted by Soravia

Magnet drain plugs work!
Transmission and diff gears shed metal shards all the time.

Your drain plug for engine works, too. Yes, filter catches them. But if you see stuff on the plug, you then know to immediately stop driving and not start the engine again.

But the most important things in the engine like valve guides and rod bearings, etc. are made of various bronze composites with more or less silica and aluminum content... . They are not caught by any magnet...

I know this as I WAS using a magnet plug. And yet my bearings were almost worn beyond the wear layer. The only thing that gave it away to an extent was an oil analysis.

I am not here to argue with anyone, I am just stating my opinion based on my experience.

Over and out.

[Nick_F]

This is what I used

[Soravia]

That's RWD. xDrive sub frame has much more clearance. Might even be possible to just disconnect the engine mounts and lift to get the engine oil pan.

I'll check the Bentley manual later when I get home

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by justinmaxon12

hey guys, will be dropping subframe to check the oil pan as im in the dreaded shredded belt situation. i have seen write ups on regular rwd models but ppl have said there there are extra steps involved for the xdrive. i cant seem to find a good write up. any help or tips would be appreciated. even general tips on changing the oil pan gasket would be great because ive seen multiple videos and everyone seems to do it a little different.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1211290
Above thread is for N52 but you can find some posts in there where people did the job on N54/55 that explain differences/additional steps. One important one I remember was N54/55 power steering pump is bolted on to the oil pan.

[ramp]

Wow, great write up. Excellent photo quality.

[bimmerfan1972]

Originally Posted by Soravia

That's RWD. xDrive sub frame has much more clearance. Might even be possible to just disconnect the engine mounts and lift to get the engine oil pan.

I'll check the Bentley manual later when I get home

Any update on this?

[Soravia]

Originally Posted by bimmerfan1972

Any update on this?

I didn't drop the front sub frame. Definitely needs front diff removed for it. But if you can work in the front oil pan bolts you can drop it with the sub frame being dropped.

I'll use Liqui Moly oil saver to see if it will help. Supposed to be for rear main but we will see

[bimmerfan1972]

Originally Posted by Soravia

I didn't drop the front sub frame. Definitely needs front diff removed for it. But if you can work in the front oil pan bolts you can drop it with the sub frame being dropped.

I'll use Liqui Moly oil saver to see if it will help. Supposed to be for rear main but we will see

So you didn't have to support the engine at any time?

[Soravia]

You will probably need to raise the engine up with hoist and disconnect from engine mounts to wiggle out the front diff. The thing is not small.
With engine raised, it gives a lot more room so maybe even possible to leave front diff in place. Other than axle shafts and front drive shaft, nothing is in the way of pulling the oil pan out.

[bimmerfan1972]

Got it, thanks.

[Soravia]

Do the entire front end while you're at it. No point to repeat the same stuff.
Front shaft seals, front diff input seals, engine mounts.
I have one NEW engine mount with 60 duro poly fill ready to go if you want.

[bimmerfan1972]

Thank you. Sounds like a lot of work. I think I'll let it leak for a while, maybe try to tackle it this Spring.

[PFRboy]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1211290
Above thread is for N52 but you can find some posts in there where people did the job on N54/55 that explain differences/additional steps. One important one I remember was N54/55 power steering pump is bolted on to the oil pan.

This is the same write-up I used when I did the oil pan gasket in my 335xi last year. It was incredibly helpful.

[frankforte90]

I would follow PhaseP write-up, I just completed an oil Pan replaced on my 2007 335xi couple of weeks ago.

I removed all the suspension components to have easy access to work though, I would recommend it but depending how rusted your car is you have to make that decision. You will have to be comfortable working with rusted out suspension components though.

By the way BMW suspension busing sucks they break down easily, so also is the motor mounts.

I also removed the subframe out of the way too. Took time to remove surface rust and apply a coat of rust protection.

Here are two links that really help with sourcing parts and bolts and torque settings...

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...-E90-BMW-335xi

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...epair-manuals/



I did take my time though as this car is not my daily driver.

[Soravia]

With all the suspension parts, in addition to dampers, such as strut mounts, rubber pads for springs, etc. It costs just as much to get a $1,400 range coilover kit like FEAL 441 or something. I only didn't do it because they said the car would lower even at max height.
Maybe I should have bit the bullet and just add extra spring strength (at same length)