[halcyon22]

A nearby friend of mine took a trip out of town and the backpressure hose popped and melted his engine harness....fun stuff. At this point we have respliced the entire melted section of the harness one wire at a time and have pretty good confidence in the work. Initially the car would power on but the engine wouldnt even try to turn over, we found a fuse related to the transmission had popped and upon replacing that the engine now starts!!

BUT we have one remaining issue or at least i think its one last issue and its 3 codes related to the shifter lock. This car had zero issues with the transmission or shift lock solenoid before the meltdown.

4E86 EGS solenoid valve 3
4E87 EGS solenoid valve 4 (shift lock)
A0B6 CAS:Selector-level interlock

Symptoms:
The shifter solenoid will not activate to disengage the shift lock mechanism so you have to reach below the shifter and manually disengage it. The idrive displays a message that the car doesnt know what gear it is in but the brake lights work.

Not seeing any voltage with ignition on and brake pedal pressed down at the connector for the shift lock solenoid at the base of the shifter and i think that we should be. Per another e90 post, there was an ohm specification and the shift lock solenoid is reading within the specified 19-21ohms. All fuses behind the glove box have been checked twice now. What else are we missing to wrap this mess up and put this car back onto the road?

[335dlci]

The harness is probably burnt for the trans.

[smass]

I am curious which line broke. Was it the differential pressure sensor with 2 lines or the pressure sensor with the short hose? When my pressure sensor blew it was pretty loud. Thanks

[halcyon22]

Originally Posted by 335dlci

The harness is probably burnt for the trans.

Maybe, pretty sure everything damaged has been cut and spliced. I am looking at this wiring diagram and checking continuity on these wires.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...01005/CjoZXUDV

[halcyon22]

Originally Posted by smass

I am curious which line broke. Was it the differential pressure sensor with 2 lines or the pressure sensor with the short hose? When my pressure sensor blew it was pretty loud. Thanks

It was the sensor with the short hose. Unfortunately this all seems to have been caused by a plugged dpf & scr, the exhaust tips on this stock car are black.

[smass]

Originally Posted by halcyon22

It was the sensor with the short hose. Unfortunately this all seems to have been caused by a plugged dpf & scr, the exhaust tips on this stock car are black.

Thanks for the reply. I popped that hose last summer as it was 10 year old rubber hooked to a hot exhaust. When broken, it was pretty obvious I had a decent exhaust leak as it was loud.

If this happens to anyone else there is an simple temp fix. Just use a pair of pliers to crimp the metal part of the hose assembly closed. It is easy to do this even when the engine is hot. I drove around for a week that way.

[Jones68]

Originally Posted by smass

Thanks for the reply. I popped that hose last summer as it was 10 year old rubber hooked to a hot exhaust. When broken, it was pretty obvious I had a decent exhaust leak as it was loud.

If this happens to anyone else there is an simple temp fix. Just use a pair of pliers to crimp the metal part of the hose assembly closed. It is easy to do this even when the engine is hot. I drove around for a week that way.

Where is this hose at ? Sorry, I'm new to this car and just trying to fill my head with good info. THX!

[halcyon22]

Originally Posted by Jones68

Where is this hose at ? Sorry, I'm new to this car and just trying to fill my head with good info. THX!

See leak 2

View post on imgur.com

And here is how it fails:

View post on imgur.com

[Jones68]

OH man....thanks for the info and pics !!

[halcyon22]

Tested 16.5 ohms on the suspect shift lock solenoid, forums say spec is 18-21ohms. Also seeing between 0 and .5v on the body side of the connector to the solenoid when disconnected but no voltage when the connector is plugged up. A known good car also tested up to .5v on the body side connector when unplugged so next step is to swap the shifter into the known good car and see if we can validate its okay. We have checked fuses 4 times now and checked the entire harness again.

[halcyon22]

the entire shifter assembly tested fine in another 335d, so looks like the tcm took a hit here as there is no voltage coming from the tcm up to the shifter. Even the reset tcm function in XHP was a no-go.

[smass]

Longshot but worth a check, during any your troubleshooting, did you ever unplug the round connector at the trans? If so, unplug again and check the pins. The aluminum pins can easily get bent over and not make a connection. You can view them with a mirror. I bent a pin during a trans service and the gear selector would not come out of park and the engine would not start.

[halcyon22]

To round this up, tcm was friend. After testing the shifter lock solenoid in another car it narrowed it down to just no voltage from tcm. Swapped with a known working one, tossed in new solenoids, fluid and called it a day. Car is running and driving great now minus an airbag light.

The black portion around the valve body is what im referring to. Swapped in, no coding or resets. Car drove funny for a couple days dialing back in its adaptations but otherwise good to go.

[Tambohamilton]

Originally Posted by halcyon22

It was the sensor with the short hose. Unfortunately this all seems to have been caused by a plugged dpf & scr, the exhaust tips on this stock car are black.

Keep an eye on this. The dpf is rarely the source of the issue, unless the car exclusively does short (10mins only) trips; it's most often something else that's bad, which causes the engine to produce a lot of soot, which the dpf can't clear fast enough and clogs up.

Glad you're back up and running