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Gauge needles replacement, now have issue
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06-30-2011, 10:29 AM | #1 |
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Gauge needles replacement, now have issue
I installed the M3 needles with no problem, and reinstalled the gauge unit. Now some of the gauge needles do not move. It powers up normally. Speedo and tach moves freely (before installing back into the car). Gas and oil temp are "firm" to rotate. When I turn on the car, the fuel works but none other 3 gauges works.
Did I damage the IP mechanism? I did some searching and came across a topic of gauge testing via the BC button. Do I need to perform or reset the instrument cluster test or is there something else I missed? Thanx for any help. Last edited by Thumperx; 06-30-2011 at 10:57 AM.. |
06-30-2011, 07:11 PM | #3 |
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Take the gauge back apart. There is a white "box" that the needles attach too. Carefully pry open the box, you'll have to cut some of the melted tabs on top in order to release the cover. You'll then see a worm drive shaft that has most likely popped out of position. Place it back in place then re-attach the cover. That should take care of the problem. When you pressed the needles on, you simply pushed the cover off enough to allow the worm shaft to move out of position. Good luck!
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06-30-2011, 08:27 PM | #4 |
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Or you pushed the needles in too far and the friction between them and the gauge faces is keeping them from moving.
I've got 3 of the 'white boxes' containing the motors in working form if you need them, btw. To take them off the board, you need to find the corresponding 2 or 3 white tabs on the opposite side of the 'box', push the small tab at their center inside, and push the main tab through the board, do it for the 2/3 of the motor box and it'll pop off, the contacts with the board are just bent metal pins so they aren't soldered on. |
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06-30-2011, 11:03 PM | #5 |
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Thanks E90 and Yak for info and offer. E90, I did open up the unit and got all of the boards separated. So I know what you're talking about the white box servos on the bottom board.
Yak, I'm going to pull the cluster out tonight and follow E90's advice and procedure. If I need replacement servos, I will immediately let you know. Much thanks for the responses, and I'll let you know what I find. |
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07-19-2011, 05:20 PM | #6 |
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*Update*
I've successfully fixed my M3 gauge cluster needles swap. Originally, when I pulled the old gauge needles out, I had disconnected the worm gear from the gauge needle's sun gear which is located in the white box servo housings. If you have similar issues, you do NOT need to remove the white servos from the computer board. You do need a soldering iron to de-melt the security caps that secures the top and bottom halves of the servo units. Once you de-melt these two locations, separating the halves can be easily done by a small flat head screw driver from the sides once the top half is separated and removed, you will be able see and access the interior. Reposition the worm gear back into its notch. You may need a tweezers or similar device to aid in this procedure. Replace the top half back on to the servo box. Place the affected gauge back. "Feel" for engagement. If you feel engagement, then melt the caps back (to your best ability) on the servo boxes. This may take several times to get right, be patient. Button the cluster back up, and place the cluster back into the Instrument panel. *NOTE* When I placed the plug back into the cluster, power is restored to the cluster unit. At this point, the speedo and tach gauge needles rotate out of position to the 9 o'clock from 0. If you have similar issue, you may need to reorient the needle/s so they will be repositioned at the "0" after power is restored to the cluster. Before plugging in, position the gauge needle/s forward the same amount of distance of the problem needle location. Restore power by placing the plug into the cluster's back, the gauge needles should rotate and return to the "0" position. Now you can wipe the sweat from your brow. Don't ask me why this happens. It took me a SEVERAL attempts before I figured it out. Thanks E90 and Yak for your help. Last edited by Thumperx; 07-11-2012 at 01:07 AM.. |
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07-07-2012, 11:16 AM | #9 |
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Dude, if you're trying to separate the white servo casings read post #6. The answer is stated.
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![]() Last edited by Thumperx; 07-07-2012 at 11:27 AM.. |
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10-15-2012, 12:51 PM | #10 |
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Thumperx: I think I have exactly the same problem as you describe. I tried replacing the needles with red ones and the speedometer / tachometer stopped moving (they moved freely before I put the cluster back in).
I tried looking at their white box servos, but was unable to determine how to open them up. You mention that you melted the safety pins... Are these 2 white plastic pins on the top plate of the servos? Could you give me a bit more detail? If I am unable to solve it myself, I might have to bring it to a specialist ![]() This has been really frustrating and any help would be very much appreciated. There seems to be nothing else on the web about how to disassemble the servos (that I can find, anyway), which is why I resorted to messaging you: this is my first post on E90. Thanks! |
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10-16-2012, 09:52 PM | #11 | |
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What details are you looking for other than what I've described in the thread? Once you manage to open the servo cases, the details given in my thread will become more apparent. You MUST be patient and try every step I've mentioned. It's not easy. If you see a specialist, might as well buy a new cluster (instead of having some trying to fix it) and car recoded.
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Name: Blanca | 07 E92 | AW-Blk | ZSP | Alcon BBK | M3 Bits | VM RR Links | Koni | UUC Sways | V5 | Dinan CAI | ETS IC | Fge DV | ER CP | Cyba | Raden. Exh | Mod Step | Trunk Drawer | Perf LED Wheel | Illum Dr Sills | IS Shifter | Parrot | Philps D1S | 6000k fog | MTECH RR | CSL Trunk | Aero | Roof Spoiler | PSS on BBS RS-GT 19s
![]() Last edited by Thumperx; 11-04-2012 at 09:22 AM.. |
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11-04-2012, 09:22 AM | #12 | |
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Name: Blanca | 07 E92 | AW-Blk | ZSP | Alcon BBK | M3 Bits | VM RR Links | Koni | UUC Sways | V5 | Dinan CAI | ETS IC | Fge DV | ER CP | Cyba | Raden. Exh | Mod Step | Trunk Drawer | Perf LED Wheel | Illum Dr Sills | IS Shifter | Parrot | Philps D1S | 6000k fog | MTECH RR | CSL Trunk | Aero | Roof Spoiler | PSS on BBS RS-GT 19s
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04-12-2014, 04:01 AM | #13 |
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I have a strange issue with mine, I had to split the servo and sort the shaft, now when i plug in, i get it all working perfect, but if i unplug and reconnect the needle stops working, i find if i pull apart, put main gear high, reconnect it winds itself down to zero, then all works fine until i unplug?
Everything worked fine for 1 week, now it stopped again. Any suggestions? |
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03-01-2015, 10:00 AM | #15 |
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That's awesome to read that you were able solve your binnacle problem. Patiences has paid off.
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Name: Blanca | 07 E92 | AW-Blk | ZSP | Alcon BBK | M3 Bits | VM RR Links | Koni | UUC Sways | V5 | Dinan CAI | ETS IC | Fge DV | ER CP | Cyba | Raden. Exh | Mod Step | Trunk Drawer | Perf LED Wheel | Illum Dr Sills | IS Shifter | Parrot | Philps D1S | 6000k fog | MTECH RR | CSL Trunk | Aero | Roof Spoiler | PSS on BBS RS-GT 19s
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03-07-2018, 06:15 PM | #16 |
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I’m having the exact issue mentioned above. I currently have the gauges separated but I can’t tell what the security tab is. Is it those two little bumps that are a clearer color inside the little notches? Do I just tab them with the iron?
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03-07-2018, 07:06 PM | #17 |
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Ok. So I figure out how to unglue the holds. Pictures attached if any one needs them.
When I plug the gauges in they do this weird thing where they rotate down and rest where they shouldn’t. Third picture. I’ve tried manipulation into place but they keeps swinging down. https://postimg.org/gallery/3bzxcr9am/ |
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03-08-2018, 08:09 AM | #18 |
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Alright, so my gauges are working, don't ask me how... I left the cover off, plugged them in and then had to adjust them after they did their spaz movement to the left. I ended up taking the neddle off the speedo, let it do it's thing a couple of time and then put the needle back in. Thankfully its working again but what a fvcking mess.
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04-10-2018, 11:38 AM | #19 | |
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For this project, my only regret that I had not taken pictures of this process, which would have made this task easier for all.
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Name: Blanca | 07 E92 | AW-Blk | ZSP | Alcon BBK | M3 Bits | VM RR Links | Koni | UUC Sways | V5 | Dinan CAI | ETS IC | Fge DV | ER CP | Cyba | Raden. Exh | Mod Step | Trunk Drawer | Perf LED Wheel | Illum Dr Sills | IS Shifter | Parrot | Philps D1S | 6000k fog | MTECH RR | CSL Trunk | Aero | Roof Spoiler | PSS on BBS RS-GT 19s
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07-31-2020, 01:52 PM | #20 | |
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I registered so that I could thank you guys for solving this needle issue.
I did the full speedo works LED, Dial and needles. and when I finally completed those, the RPM needle is dead. Thanks to yall I got it up and running again. Love from Singapore. Quote:
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