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335i Alignment in-spec, but still pulls right? Lowered Bilstein suspension
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04-21-2020, 01:29 PM | #1 |
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335i Alignment in-spec, but still pulls right? Lowered Bilstein suspension
Hi all!
Apologies if there is another thread out there that would shed some light, but I've searched and not coming up with much. Hoping one of you experts can provide some input! 2007 BMW 335i, N54, 6MT, RWD, ~160k miles 18" wheels. Don't have runflat tires Front: Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 Plus 225/40/R18 92Y XL BSW (both replaced a few weeks ago) Rear: Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 Plus 255/35/R18 94Y XL BSW (one replaced a few weeks ago due to a flat, other replaced a couple of months ago but still has most of the tread left) I bought the vehicle about 18 months ago with the aftermarket suspension already installed, but from my research and understanding, it is a Bilstein B12 Pro-Kit (which is Bilstein B8 struts in front, Bilstein B8 shocks in rear, and Eibach lowering springs on all 4 corners). In Oct 2019, I had a leak in one of the rear shock absorbers, so I replaced both rears with 2 new Bilstein B8 Performance Plus Shock Absorbers. A few weeks ago, I also had front drivers side and passenger side inner and outer tie rods replaced (both front tie rod assemblies), replaced rear drivers side and passenger side track rod track struts, and replaced rear drivers side and passenger side rear track arm bolts with eccentric cam adjusters with replacement used ones that were in better shape, all done by my indy/tuner 335i specialty shop (they specialize in N54/N55). I had an alignment done right at a year ago (before all the above work) at another reputable shop (as my indy/tuner shop doesn't have an alignment rack), and they got it within spec, but couldn't adjust one of the front tie rods as it was seized up at the time, so they didn't charge for me for the rest of the alignment, even though he said it was pretty well in spec. After all of the above work, my steering wheel was not straight, and I knew my alignment was out of spec, it had a pull to the right. So now that all the above was done, I went in for an alignment afterwards a week ago to the same reputable shop, and they put it in spec. However, it still tracks to the right. If you are in the lefthand passing lane on the interstate, you will get some left drift due to road crown, but on surface streets as well as in the middle lanes on the interstate, it has a right pull/push that is abnormal. Not super hard, but if you let go of the wheel, it will always drift that direction and requires a constant very slight left hand on the wheel to track straight and not drift off. It does the same accelerating and decelerating. On hard acceleration though, it is much more noticeable, it definitely requires some counter pressure (not hard, but you would end up in the next lane within 2-3 seconds). I don't feel anything in the steering wheel that would lead me to believe it is a loose suspension part or bushing, like play or movement that is causing it. It is just a definite drift, almost like it is being pushed in that direction vs steered if I could call it that. I took it back to the alignment shop this morning, and they checked the alignment again, as well as test drove it. See the specs below from the recheck. He definitely felt what I was feeling with the pull/push, and said it felt like a front wheel drive car does when it has torque steer, but said they didn't see anything loose underneath or any bushing shot etc that would lead them to think it was a failing part. However, they are not a European specialty shop or aftermarket speciality shop, so he said all they can go off of is the stock BMW alignment specs, although he said he's seen cases where aftermarket suspension set-ups run better with differing alignments. He is willing to adjust it however I want, he's just not sure how to adjust it to take that pull/push out (if it is in fact the alignment). It is always to the right, both accelerating and decelerating, and is present at the same level at 40 MPH as it is at 70 MPH. I do have some slight slow (not rapid) oscillation/vibration in the steering wheel at all speeds; I believe this is likely due to my driver's side front wheel that Discount Tire told me the wheel was bent when I put the front tires on a few weeks ago, a "5 out of 10 but he's seen worse" when I asked how bad. I don't think it is a related issue to the one in question here but noting that here regardless. Based on these specs, does it look like something here could be the culprit with the suspension set up I am running? Thanks in advance!! |
04-21-2020, 02:53 PM | #3 |
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Thanks for the reply Boosted12a! They checked all the suspension parts and bushings and said nothing looked loose or badly worn, it's actually a pretty well maintained and tight vehicle for the age and miles.
Yes, I did check the tire pressure, that was a thought as well, but they're all good I did swap the front tires left to right after I had the new ones installed and saw it was pulling, but it still pulled the same way. Granted, that was before the suspension parts and alignment, so maybe I need to try swapping the front tires, and then if it still pulls the same way, maybe try swapping the rear tires (since it is a staggered set up). At least rule those out. It doesn't feel like a worn bushing though - there isn't any jerk or movement or play when you put the pedal down and it starts cruising right - more just like it's following it's natural path of movement, almost like it's being pushed in that direction vs pulled. |
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04-21-2020, 08:20 PM | #5 |
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Interesting development - went back to Discount Tire this afternoon and had them swap the front tires left to right. No change, still pulled to the right. Went back and had them swap the rear tires left to right, not expecting anything to change. However, it now pulls/pushes left! The new rear tire they had installed on the right rear a few weeks ago (after I got a flat), was on the right when it pulled right, now when they swapped it to the left, it pulls left. Does that sound like an issue with that tire, or with the tire on the other rear side (that is ~3 months old)? I'm guessing is a radial pull manufacturing issue with the one I just bought, as I didn't have any issues before it was installed, and have been battling the pull since then. It was just muddied by all the other repairs done in the last several weeks to other tires/suspension/alignment/etc.
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04-21-2020, 08:29 PM | #6 | |
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04-21-2020, 08:54 PM | #7 | |
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04-21-2020, 09:13 PM | #8 | ||
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04-22-2020, 10:30 AM | #9 |
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Drives: 2007 Black/Black 335i e90
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Tie Rods? How old ?
Get some Meyle HD versions |
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04-22-2020, 11:50 AM | #10 | |
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Quote:
Swapping the rears changes which direction it pulls, so I'm going back this afternoon to have Discount Tire investigate. My tire that is 3 months old with decent tread, I don't recall having any issues with, only since they put the new rear tire on 3 weeks ago, and it pulls to whichever side that new tire is on, so I'm guessing it has a bad belt from the factory. |
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04-22-2020, 11:51 AM | #11 |
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04-22-2020, 05:58 PM | #12 |
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Okay let us know the outcome. I've had a bad tire that caused a pull
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04-23-2020, 10:47 AM | #13 |
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So I went back yesterday afternoon and had them replace the rear tire that had been replaced just a couple of weeks ago, with a new one under warranty, and it still seemed to act up. I checked the tire pressures this morning when cold though, and all of them were several PSI low, and the one they just replaced was 8.5 low. I figured they would all be a little low because they topped them off to normal pressure when they were warm, but the new tire almost 10 low was odd. Hopefully there isn't an issue there and they just made a mistake somehow. I topped off the pressures, and it seems pretty good now. Still seems to track a little left or right under hard acceleration, but I think that is more if it was slightly tracking that way before putting the pedal down. It does still have a vibration but I think that's the bent wheel, so getting that fixed Tuesday morning. Then I should be better able to tell how we're looking.
It's a 13 year old car with hydraulic steering, so maybe I'm just expecting too much from it - but in my 2014 Grand Cherokee (I know, completely different vehicle), it tracks straight as an arrow - I feel like I could cruise miles on a straight stretch of interstate without touching the wheel. Not so in my bimmer |
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04-23-2020, 06:51 PM | #14 |
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Yeah, I know what you mean about older/random cars driving without issue. These cars don't track all that great unless everything is tip top, from a suspension perspective.
If you're uncertain, road force balance all wheels tires...that will tell you the runout of each wheel/tire so you can figure out if either/or is the issue. Also, no reason why rear toe shouldn't match from side to side. I'd get that fixed if I were you. |
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04-23-2020, 09:13 PM | #15 |
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Mine is a 2007 as well but with 80,000 miles. I've had just as many problems with the suspension but just recently I got it to drive straight. Fixing that wheel might help a lot. I had a small bubble in my tire that would cause the car to shake badly
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08-06-2020, 09:40 AM | #18 |
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At 160k, if you haven't done bushings, they are probably worn. While your car may look like its aligned on the rack, worn bushings will allow the suspension alignment to change dynamically as the suspension is loaded.
I'd start with trailing arm bushings for the rear |
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alignment, bilstein, pulls, suspension |
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