[fie method]

Recently bought my second car, first bmw, 2010 335 with 95k miles that needed some work. Mainly fuel injectors and ignition. My plan is to do fbo with mhd stage 2. First wanted to get some maintenance out of the way the car needed done.

The work done just before i purchased:
valve cover (I noticed it was done with silicone? is this normal? Also it leaked a lot, there's old oil built up everywhere)
fuel pump (unsure if hp or lp)
water pump (used)

Work I have done:
Oil change
Index 12's (coded at shop)
Bosch sparks and coils
All vacuum lines
Coolant flush
Steering fluid

I did all of above but vacuum lines before I went mhd stage 1 and DCI. Was getting SES 30ff at WOT and noticeable boost loss, car also felt slow. I did vacuum lines and found the intercooler clamp on the turbo side was not all the way in. Fixed the SES but I still get 30ff as a shadow code.

The car also doesn't feel as fast as it should. Even at the boost it gets, about 10-11psi max, it runs 6.5 0-60 and 15 sec 1/4 mile with dragy. Car had a Cobb CP on the very first owner put on. Stock DV but they look okay. At some point I think the boost solenoids where done, they are pierburg and not oem, so i dont think they are the problem. I felt the rear turbo actuator and there isn't much play. I cant reach front with my hands. There's only a waste gate rattle for maybe 1-2 second on a cold start which seems normal.

Other issues are a loud turbo or some sort of woosh sound past 2k rpms at times, and the turbos just seem loud in general when going. I checked DV and CP i pulled DV and noticed some oil inside CP? Normal?

Any advice would help. Here's a 3rd gear log as well. First time logging any car. I know theres a boost leak, and I think the WGBC hitting 96% randomly cant be good? Is this my issue? Thanks.

https://datazap.me/u/fie-method/log-...-4-18-19-22-30

[fie method]

First time posting, why won't my spool street url work here? Works fine when i open outside the website.

[Emilime75]

It's an e90post thing, they don't like competition.

No, silicone, or any other type of sealant, is not normal for the VC gasket. There's a forum member here that will tell you to sandwich the gasket in-between to layers of RTV, but that is completely unnecessary. Just clean both surfaces really well, install a new, OEM gasket and use lots of caution when reinstalling the cover. It's tight and likes to get caught on things and dislodges the gasket. Once its back on the head, use a mirror all around to make sure it is still seated correctly before screwing in bolts. Then torque to spec in the proper sequence.

The woosh sound could be DVs if they're VTA, but coupled with a 30ff it's very likely you have a boost leak somewhere. Google on how to do a smoke test.

[fie method]

I was planning on redoing the VC after i sorted the 30ff. Is it possible it's connected to that code? Or the sluggish power? It doesn't leak atm.

Smoke test was my next but from what I read they only work for a large leak? I can build up to 12psi when target is 15-16. the 12psi will drop to 10-11 at wot. I THINK that's a small leak, would I still benefit by doing it?

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by fie method

Recently bought my second car, first bmw, 2010 335 with 95k miles that needed some work. Mainly fuel injectors and ignition. My plan is to do fbo with mhd stage 2. First wanted to get some maintenance out of the way the car needed done.

The work done just before i purchased:
valve cover (I noticed it was done with silicone? is this normal? Also it leaked a lot, there's old oil built up everywhere)
fuel pump (unsure if hp or lp)
water pump (used)

Work I have done:
Oil change
Index 12's (coded at shop)
Bosch sparks and coils
All vacuum lines
Coolant flush
Steering fluid

I did all of above but vacuum lines before I went mhd stage 1 and DCI. Was getting SES 30ff at WOT and noticeable boost loss, car also felt slow. I did vacuum lines and found the intercooler clamp on the turbo side was not all the way in. Fixed the SES but I still get 30ff as a shadow code.

The car also doesn't feel as fast as it should. Even at the boost it gets, about 10-11psi max, it runs 6.5 0-60 and 15 sec 1/4 mile with dragy. Car had a Cobb CP on the very first owner put on. Stock DV but they look okay. At some point I think the boost solenoids where done, they are pierburg and not oem, so i dont think they are the problem. I felt the rear turbo actuator and there isn't much play. I cant reach front with my hands. There's only a waste gate rattle for maybe 1-2 second on a cold start which seems normal.

Other issues are a loud turbo or some sort of woosh sound past 2k rpms at times, and the turbos just seem loud in general when going. And as I come to a stop something shakes very lightly for a second. And as i was check DV and CP i pulled DV and noticed some oil inside CP? Normal?

Any advice would help. Here's a 3rd gear log as well. First time logging any car. I know theres a boost leak, and I think the WGBC hitting 96% randomly cant be good? Is this my issue? Thanks.

https://datalogs.***********.com/gra...03-29-02.2586/

Can you post log on Datazap and post the link directly?

Most likely have a boost leak, get it sorted ASAP.

If your WGDC is consistently hitting high numbers then that's not good either.

Follow this guide...

https://bmwtuning.co/bmw-n54-30ff-en...-repair-guide/

[Bimmer_Bro]

If youre getting a 30ff, most likely the boost leak is quite large. In my experience it has to be a big leak for that code to be thrown. I have had both intercooler connections leak and charge pipe leak without throwing that code.
If your WGDC is maxed during the pull, the turbo is working overtime to try and make up for the pressure loss. check the whole intake track. Maybe you have a wastegate stuck open on the turbo.

I also suggest getting a charge pipe like the VRSF one. Thats the first mod that should be done before turning up the boost. The factory ones are known to explode and leave you stranded.

Also replace your PCV valve. RB turbo or BMS make good ones. They are cheap and easy to swap. If you stock one is leaking, it will pressurize the valve cover causing it to leak and ruin the seal. Oil inside the charge pipe is normal. A new PCV valve will also help with this.

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Originally Posted by Emilime75

It's an e90post thing, they don't like competition.

No, silicone, or any other type of sealant, is not normal for the VC gasket. There's a forum member here that will tell you to sandwich the gasket in-between to layers of RTV, but that is completely unnecessary. Just clean both surfaces really well, install a new, OEM gasket and use lots of caution when reinstalling the cover. It's tight and likes to get caught on things and dislodges the gasket. Once its back on the head, use a mirror all around to make sure it is still seated correctly before screwing in bolts. Then torque to spec in the proper sequence.

The woosh sound could be DVs if they're VTA, but coupled with a 30ff it's very likely you have a boost leak somewhere. Google on how to do a smoke test.

I second the commentary about the sealant on the VCG. I tried that when I did it the first time and it made a huge mess. I've done it twice now and it's really not a huge undertaking...

[fie method]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Can you post log on Datazap and post the link directly?

Most likely have a boost leak, get it sorted ASAP.

If your WGDC is consistently hitting high numbers then that's not good either.

Follow this guide...

https://bmwtuning.co/bmw-n54-30ff-en...-repair-guide/

https://datazap.me/u/fie-method/log-...-4-18-19-22-30

3rd gear pull from about 3500-6600 rpm

[fie method]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer

I second the commentary about the sealant on the VCG. I tried that when I did it the first time and it made a huge mess. I've done it twice now and it's really not a huge undertaking...

I thought it was strange there was sealant. I'm going to replace it then, did it on my a4 b8 so i'm familiar with the process

[fie method]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro

If youre getting a 30ff, most likely the boost leak is quite large. In my experience it has to be a big leak for that code to be thrown. I have had both intercooler connections leak and charge pipe leak without throwing that code.
If your WGDC is maxed during the pull, the turbo is working overtime to try and make up for the pressure loss. check the whole intake track. Maybe you have a wastegate stuck open on the turbo.

I also suggest getting a charge pipe like the VRSF one. Thats the first mod that should be done before turning up the boost. The factory ones are known to explode and leave you stranded.

Also replace your PCV valve. RB turbo or BMS make good ones. They are cheap and easy to swap. If you stock one is leaking, it will pressurize the valve cover causing it to leak and ruin the seal. Oil inside the charge pipe is normal. A new PCV valve will also help with this.

I posted a log if you want to take a look. The car came with a cobb CP, it looks old and I've heard of leak/fitment issues with it so I might replace with VRSF w/ bov. I want to run a bov anyway, the cobb one is for DV. I do have a vargas pcv on order as well from fcp

[Emilime75]

I'm not the most experienced at reading logs, but you're up 4 PSI from meeting boost target and your IATs are skyrocketing a good 70 degrees in that 1 short pull.

Those would lead me to be looking for a boost leak, and as Bimmer_Bro mentioned above, it looks like it is causing your turbos to be working over time to try and meet that target, causing the sky high IAT.

I'm actually surprised you don't have major timing corrections because of your IAT. Maybe because boost isn't all that high, but it's still higher than stock and stock will have timing corrections if IAT goes up high like that.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by fie method

https://datazap.me/u/fie-method/log-...-4-18-19-22-30

3rd gear pull from about 3500-6600 rpm

Your way off boost targets, most likely a boost leak, wgdc spiking probably due to boost leak as mentioned by others. On a stage 1 tune, it should not be more than 50% as I understand. Mine was in the 40-50 range, your hitting ~70 which means your turbos working overtime to compensate for failing to hit boost targets.

have you replaced all vacumn lines, checked charge pipe connections (hope you already have upgraded charge pipe to a metal one) vacuum canister connection points etc?

Next thing to check is boost solenoids,

Your Intercooler seems to be having a complete breakdown, (IAT's skyrocketing) assuming you checked intercooler connection points, might be time to upgrade, before you do that though sort out the boost leak issue first.