[TheBigSwede]

Greetings. I live in SW Ontario with my beloved '09 335d. Have been slowly restoring the suspension front to back over the winter and doing minor engine bay mods. I'm at the rear carrier/sub frame and ready to drop it to install all new bushings and perform corrosion remediation on the surrounding areas before it gets out of hand. The subframe is heavily corroded to the point where blasting, filling, possibly welding and painting would be needed to rehab it. I've started looking for a good quality used carrier instead but the search has been difficult.

My question: Has anybody here swapped 33316783715 for an alternate carrier of similar p/n and had success? RealOEM reports there are only 5 other USA spec E91s that share this p/n with the 335d making the potential pool very small to draw from. $1600 CAD for new is too rich for my blood.

Your insights are appreciated. Thx.

[BB_cuda]

You should be able to pickup a used a good subframe (you call it carrier) in a salvage yard or eBay. I would carefully research the rear diff bushing’s spot on the potential replacement. The 335d has a different size than an E9XM3 for instance. It may be okay to use the bushing size that fits the new subframe. For instance, M3 subframe with its slightly smaller bushing for rear diff spot.
Be advised, E9X M3 subframe uses longer and M3 unique aluminum toe links that are arch shaped. Not sure if you want to diverge away from a standard E9X subframe.

[def1nity]

I've been doing something similar over the winter with my 30d. Refreshed front with M3 control arms all around and the change is jaw-dropping Naturally I looked into doing the same in the rear. Right now I have decided on the following bits:

1. 4x M3 upper rear control arms (basically the plug&play replacements)

2. 4x M subframe bushings

3. 2 x Bilstein OE springs + 2x Bilstein B6 shocks

4. 2x Rear trailing arms OE from BMW - this is just a piece of sheet metal and my mechanic advised it's not worth replacing them. However, from what I've been reading, it is actually the weakest link in the suspension and is designed to take the brunt of a hit with something like a pothole in the rear. Just for peace of mind, I will replace mine as they are pretty old and I am doing a refresh anyway.

5. 2x Lower Toe Arms OE from BMW - this is what BB_cuda mentioned I believe. The M3 ones do not fit directly and require sport shocks and struts + I'm pretty sure they needed the M3 stabilizer bar and maybe other things. Since I don't want to sacrifice that much ride comfort with my DD, I am opting for just the plug&play M3 parts + HD shocks and the rest OE.

6. Misc bushings and bolts all Lemforder.

You made me think that probably it will be a good idea to clean and spray some sealant on the axle while it's out of the car... What do you plan on using for yours?

[TheBigSwede]

The inputs are appreciated. I'll continue the hunt for a viable rear subframe replacement. Think i'll visit a bimmer salvage team here in the GTA with my subframe in hand to do side by side comparison.

So far this winter I've done the following.
1. EGR Delete.
2. ATM intercooler with upgraded ATM boost hoses.
3. Swirl flap delete and chemically cleaned intake manifold. Walnut blast was done 10K ago but intake wasn't perfect. New MAP sensor.
4. All new silicone vacuum lines. Thank you Yozh and crew for the great DIYs and vids. Life saver.
5. New BMW engine mounts.
6. Bilstein B4s all around with bushings and misc HW (sport edition).
7. Upper, lower control arms, tie rods, etc. M3 on the front. Stock spec in rear.
8. Wheel bearings all around.
9. Caliper rebuilds all around with new brake hoses.
11. Removed, degreased, electrolysis to de-rust, POR15 metal prep and paint on anything showing corrosion.
12. Coating the rehabbed metal surfaces with RP342 (Cosmoline) the way I wish it was done from factory. Using FluidFilm where i can't spray RP342.

Like many here, the OCD runs strong. Pull one thing, see something else that is not perfect and the next project is planned. Spring is just around the corner so I need to ramp up progress to get the beast back on the road. The rear subframe rehab vs. find a perfect match for the 335d is what's slowing me now.

[TheBigSwede]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Be advised, E9X M3 subframe uses longer and M3 unique aluminum toe links that are arch shaped. Not sure if you want to diverge away from a standard E9X subframe.

Thx BB_cuda. Read this info a while back on another thread I think you spawned. I emptied my cart of M3 rear end components immediately and reloaded with the stock sport spec as I don't want to mess with the camber or struggle with the install. Honestly I'm very content with stock rear suspension performance. You saved me time, money and sweat.

[ranthum]

All non m3 e90s have the same rear subframe. There's charts out there showing which specific years and combinations had small or large and welded or bolted differentials, but the mounting points are the same. Should be easy to find.

[TheBigSwede]

It's out! Not as bad as I'd suspected. Fair bit of scale and lots of flaking paint but still solid in the right places. Will either sand blast or wire wheel then paint, press in new bushings and coat innards with FluidFilm. Pic is from my 235K 2009 335d that has been patrolling the winter highways up here until this winter.

[Xerix]

Hey There,

So how did your bushings look to you when you looked at them on the subframe? were they cracked and worn? or just worn with too much play in them?

Also, did you replace with BMW parts or aftermarket? Would appreciate which aftermarket parts you used if you did. I have been considering tackling the rear bushings and control arms after I had done my front last year.

Thanks,

[TheBigSwede]

Apologies for late reply. The bushing were actually in decent shape and had no visible cracks or deterioration upon close inspection. Replacing them was painful! I tapped out and called in my mechanic friend who spent an hour pressing out the old and a couple full hours pressing in the new Lemforders. He did not have the full bmw compliment of tools but was much better equipped and skilled than I. From there I moved on to the rust remediation which has since satisfied my ocd. I should have everything buttoned up this weekend.

It was a ridiculous amount of effort for an ‘09 but I had the time, patience and interest to see it thru. Will post pictures and write up when complete.

[BB_cuda]

Excellent. Look forward to seeing the results.

[dr_dirtg]

Originally Posted by TheBigSwede

Greetings. I live in SW Ontario with my beloved '09 335d. Have been slowly restoring the suspension front to back over the winter and doing minor engine bay mods. I'm at the rear carrier/sub frame and ready to drop it to install all new bushings and perform corrosion remediation on the surrounding areas before it gets out of hand. The subframe is heavily corroded to the point where blasting, filling, possibly welding and painting would be needed to rehab it. I've started looking for a good quality used carrier instead but the search has been difficult.

My question: Has anybody here swapped 33316783715 for an alternate carrier of similar p/n and had success? RealOEM reports there are only 5 other USA spec E91s that share this p/n with the 335d making the potential pool very small to draw from. $1600 CAD for new is too rich for my blood.

Your insights are appreciated. Thx.

Hello guys, I realize the op redid his sub frame, but i'm in the same boat and mine looks way worse.
Real Oem says a gasser 335i has a different part #.
Does anyone know the difference??

part #s:
335d: 33316783714
335i: 33316783713

[Tambohamilton]

As far as I know, it's just the rear diff bush size, but the actually diff fitment is the same so the subframes are essentially interchangeable. I could be wrong though...

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

As far as I know, it's just the rear diff bush size, but the actually diff fitment is the same so the subframes are essentially interchangeable. I could be wrong though...

But you gotta use the rear diff bushing that pertains to either 335i or 335d actual subframe. The 335d has this weird vibration absorber that goes on the rear of that bolt that goes through the rear diff bushing mount. I call it a dog bone.

[TheBigSwede]

This update is long overdue. I had the car reassembled and back on the road before summer and i feel pretty good about how it turned out. I went through a few wire wheels and cups to remove corrosion from most parts. Electrolysis was used on subframe, rear knuckles and brake callipers. Etching acid, POR-15, metal prep, VHT paint and RP-342, googles, masks, face. shield and gloves were helpful. I had to drop the fuel tanks to get onto the rust I could see starting up there. PITA! Here are some pics of the work.

Rear knuckle


Rear calliper


Better view of rear knuckle


Corrosion to be remediated around the bosses






Electrolysis to remove rust from inside of subframe


Stripped


Primed, painted and slathered internally with RP342 and awaiting bushings.


Fresh bushings, bearings, hubs and paint.

[TheBigSwede]

Round 2 of progress pics.

Subframe back in after underbody corrosion remediated. A few original bolts remain to conserve funds.












Front strut assembly with freshly cleaned and clear-coated knuckle, new bearings, hub and brake hoses. Callipers (not pictured) cleaned and rebuilt.



Rear assembly, clean and coated with RP-342 awaiting it's rebuilt callipers, fresh pads and hoses.






Would I do it all again? Um, maybe... when I'm retired with a bigger space to work in. The parts list was lengthy and there were a few days where the work halted when i was waiting for bits to arrive. Overall I'm happy with the result as the car now looks like nearly new underneath and drives great. If I am honest I cannot detect any difference in back end ride quality since the replacement. My OCD can now be directed to other projects. Thanks to the OG members here whose posts provided the motivation to tackle this project. I'm now back to patrolling the Ontario highways in this beast!

[Tambohamilton]

[BB_cuda]

Great looking results. Next time you have the wheels off put a decent amount of grease up inside the hub where the axle nut is. Not for lube but for corrosion protection. I've seen too many threads where people fight getting the axle pressed out of the hub. Hopefully you never need new bearings as these are new with the new hubs. My car came from Pennsylvania but only saw one winter there and has since been in south Texas away from salt roads. I still saw some rust there and cleaned it and loaded in grease to mask it away from the water and rust.

[TheBigSwede]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

... Next time you have the wheels off put a decent amount of grease up inside the hub where the axle nut is. Not for lube but for corrosion protection.

Good call and already done! I've encased the new nuts and hubs in cosmoline so the next guy will have an easier go. The original nuts were impossibly rusted/fused onto the hub and axle. I gave up and called in my mechanic friend who had to use some 'persuasion' to free them, see images below. Researching prices for 335d replacement axles was alarming. Thankfully I was able to run a die over the axle threads to restore them.

[Wolf 335]

Great work!

[BB_cuda]

Looks like a cutting torch got introduced to the deviant hubs 8>\