[AoS810]

Update, unfortunately the issue described in this thread isn't fixed for me after the software update. I decided to scan my car again today and I'm getting getting 2A87 again for the Vanos exhaust mechanism. I already had the exhaust Vanos solenoid replaced (supposedly) in April 2019 under SULEV so I'm curious why this code is back so soon.

Is this indicative of another issue and not the solenoid? At least I'm getting a code now.

[Aznboyhoy]

I have the same issue. Cold start- let the car warm up - rpm sits at 600 firm - put the car in reverse and rpm surges from 500-800.

Observed - if I cold start the car, turn on the AC, the surge does not occur. The AC on puts the rpm at 700.

I wonder if it is something with the battery especially with the initial power going into gear......

Have you tried on your car on a cold start, AC on?

[AoS810]

Originally Posted by Aznboyhoy

I wonder if it is something with the battery especially with the initial power going into gear......

Have you tried on your car on a cold start, AC on?

Don't believe it's a battery issue for me, my battery is fairly new (less than one year old) and I haven't run into the typical symptoms of a bad battery.

The rpm at idle is actually worse when I turn the AC on. With the AC on the rpm's seems to fluctuate even more, goes from 500 to 700-ish. Does yours do this too Fritzer? Or is this a sign of something I should look into more.

[Fritzer]

Originally Posted by Aznboyhoy

I have the same issue. Cold start- let the car warm up - rpm sits at 600 firm - put the car in reverse and rpm surges from 500-800.

Observed - if I cold start the car, turn on the AC, the surge does not occur. The AC on puts the rpm at 700.

I wonder if it is something with the battery especially with the initial power going into gear......

Have you tried on your car on a cold start, AC on?

Yes I have actually noticed this. When the RPM is increased by 100 due to the AC compressor being on, it generally mitigates any of the surging on cold start gear changes. No idea what causes it to do that.

[Aznboyhoy]

Originally Posted by Fritzer

Yes I have actually noticed this. When the RPM is increased by 100 due to the AC compressor being on, it generally mitigates any of the surging on cold start gear changes. No idea what causes it to do that.

I'm taking my car into the dealership tomorrow and I'll keep you updated. 2008 328i 87k e93 auto.

[Fritzer]

Originally Posted by Aznboyhoy

I'm taking my car into the dealership tomorrow and I'll keep you updated. 2008 328i 87k e93 auto.

Interested to see your results as well. Don't forget to bring up the SULEV warranty. 15 year/150,000 miles warranty for N51 engines.

[Aznboyhoy]

Originally Posted by Fritzer

Interested to see your results as well. Don't forget to bring up the SULEV warranty. 15 year/150,000 miles warranty for N51 engines.

Yes, I mentioned the Sulev and they are aware of it. Interesting that I cleaned both my vanos solenoid this past weekend, started the car up today, and no rough idle going to the dealership🤦*♂️

I still dropped it off to see if they would change my VC gasket and check to see if it still had a rough idle issue. I'll hear in a few days.

[Aznboyhoy]

Got my car back. I replaced all 6 oem coils, VC gasket, Coolant flush, new battery. (fairly new spark plugs withing the last 3 months. No check light or code). I'm pretty sure the dealer didn't warm the car for 5ish minutes to replicate the idle surge. They advised me to record it which I'll do tomorrow.

Started the car this morning, let it warm up for 5-8 minutes, RPM sat at 600 firm, and I still had the idle surge from 500-800 rpm.

Observed: If I just cold start and warm up for under a minute where the rpm is still at 650-700, and put in gear, it wont have an idle surge.

I guess I'll just not warm up my car for that long then. Seems like there is no fix.

cars run smooth throughout the day. Next weekend, I'll be changing OFHG and OEM 0w30 oil. I'll see if that does anything.... highly doubt it.

[AoS810]

Update from me, I believe my car is fixed! I dropped my car off at the dealership last week because I was getting 2A87 for the Vanos exhaust solenoid mechanism.

The notes on the work order state the below:

"CLIENT STATES THE IDLE WILL FLUCTUATE AT TIMES. CHECK AND ADVISE.
ENGINE TIMING DEVIATION (EXHAUST VANOS)
SULEV WARRANTY 15/150
CONNECTED BATTERY CHARGER AND PERFORMED SHORT TEST. FAULT CODE STORED FOR EXHAUST VANOS. AS PER TEST MODULE, REMOVED VALVE COVER AND CHECKED ENGINE TIMING. VERIFIED ENGINE TIMING DEVIATION TO BE PRESENT. REPLACED VANOS CENTRAL BOLTS AND TIMED ENGINE TIMING. REMOVED BOTH VANOS SOLENOIDS AND INSPECTED FOR DEBRIS, NONE FOUND. REASSEMBLED ENGINE, CLEARED FAULT MEMORY AND TEST DROVE. NO FURTHER REPAIRS NEEDED AT THIS TIME."

As part of the above repair, they replaced all respective gaskets on the valve cover (i.e. VCG, Vanos motor, and eccentric shaft). The car definitely idles a lot better and I haven't gotten the the engine shaking. The gear shift fluctuation is also gone, shifting from P to R/D is very smooth now. This was all covered under SULEV warranty but they did not go to this extent until I had the 2A87 code again. I'm not sure if me performing the DME software update helped with this because the old software wasn't causing a code to show up?

Hope this helps, I'm happy with my perfectly running 148K mile car again!

[Fritzer]

Originally Posted by AoS810

Update from me, I believe my car is fixed! I dropped my car off at the dealership last week because I was getting 2A87 for the Vanos exhaust solenoid mechanism.

The notes on the work order state the below:

"CLIENT STATES THE IDLE WILL FLUCTUATE AT TIMES. CHECK AND ADVISE.
ENGINE TIMING DEVIATION (EXHAUST VANOS)
SULEV WARRANTY 15/150
CONNECTED BATTERY CHARGER AND PERFORMED SHORT TEST. FAULT CODE STORED FOR EXHAUST VANOS. AS PER TEST MODULE, REMOVED VALVE COVER AND CHECKED ENGINE TIMING. VERIFIED ENGINE TIMING DEVIATION TO BE PRESENT. REPLACED VANOS CENTRAL BOLTS AND TIMED ENGINE TIMING. REMOVED BOTH VANOS SOLENOIDS AND INSPECTED FOR DEBRIS, NONE FOUND. REASSEMBLED ENGINE, CLEARED FAULT MEMORY AND TEST DROVE. NO FURTHER REPAIRS NEEDED AT THIS TIME."

As part of the above repair, they replaced all respective gaskets on the valve cover (i.e. VCG, Vanos motor, and eccentric shaft). The car definitely idles a lot better and I haven't gotten the the engine shaking. The gear shift fluctuation is also gone, shifting from P to R/D is very smooth now. This was all covered under SULEV warranty but they did not go to this extent until I had the 2A87 code again. I'm not sure if me performing the DME software update helped with this because the old software wasn't causing a code to show up?

Hope this helps, I'm happy with my perfectly running 148K mile car again!

Awesome! Glad to hear it man! Running it by the wire on that warranty, our car's mileages are about within 1000 of each other haha.

[Aznboyhoy]

Good to hear. The only thing I've been doing is not warning up the car pass 1 -2 minutes. Cars does not jerk when I go into gear for the first time if I do this....

[XtraTryHard]

Originally Posted by Fritzer

This has been happening on and off for the last couple months for me. The car has not thrown any codes or CEL for this. I am completely unsure of what could cause this. Any input would be appreciated.

2011 E90 LCI with N51 SULEV engine. Car was warm when the video was filmed, no accessories on except headlights, complete standstill with foot on the brakes and parking brake fully applied. Probably 2,500 miles since last oil change with Pentosin 5W-30.Listen closely before I change the gears and you can hear the rough idle, it sounds like it's pulsing.

The only thing I can think is bad MAF, O2 sensors, or crankshaft position sensor or something. But zero codes have been thrown for this. Could it possibly have to do with the transmission? Totally lost, any help or advice would be appreciated. Video embedded below.

I used to have this problem, it was resolved through various thing actually. First, I made sure VANOS solenoids were cleaned with every oil change (it has over 153k mi), cleaned MAP & MAF sensors, changed the auto trans fuid with filter, and reset the shift points NOT the adaptations, then i also made sure the battery was well charged. Afterwards, the car was running more or less how it really should be, you can quite tell.

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by AoS810

AS PER TEST MODULE, REMOVED VALVE COVER AND CHECKED ENGINE TIMING. VERIFIED ENGINE TIMING DEVIATION TO BE PRESENT. REPLACED VANOS CENTRAL BOLTS AND TIMED ENGINE TIMING.
Hope this helps, I'm happy with my perfectly running 148K mile car again!

I'm too lazy to look it up right now, but does anyone know what the procedure is for verifying the engine timing and setting it correctly? What does replacing the VANOS central bolts have to do with engine timing? Did the VANOS adjusters move and affect timing, and new bolts are just required as part of the readjustment procedure?

I'm wondering if this is the reason for my occasional jumping idle. This is just a thought with no confirmation, but I had been wondering if a stretched timing chain could account for minor timing differences. I also get a light pinging sound at low RPMs when accelerating, yet no codes thrown. Fuel trims all look good, and there are no misfires, so there's no error being set.

[kevinmccann72]

I've been having the exact same problem as you. Did you take it back to the dealer and tell them the problem?

[Fritzer]

Originally Posted by kevinmccann72

I've been having the exact same problem as you. Did you take it back to the dealer and tell them the problem?

I haven't taken mine to the dealer yet. Will probably do so soon and see what I can do under the SULEV warranty.

[BMW M-E³]

Anyone tried replacing their fuel pressure regulator? I was having a similar issue on my N52 325i, but with the addition of a long crank after sitting. Replaced the fuel pressure regulator for $49 and an hour of work, runs like a dream again, no weird issues, no more weird(seemingly unrelated) codes being thrown.

[BMW M-E³]

The shifting issue that gets better when warm is probably a transmission solenoid and/or solenoid sleeve going out if it's a ZF automatic. Which is also a relatively easy repair with a transmission service kit.

[AoS810]

Originally Posted by BMW M-E³

Anyone tried replacing their fuel pressure regulator? I was having a similar issue on my N52 325i, but with the addition of a long crank after sitting. Replaced the fuel pressure regulator for $49 and an hour of work, runs like a dream again, no weird issues, no more weird(seemingly unrelated) codes being thrown.

I did not have the fuel pressure regulator replaced.

Update, I still haven't had any rough idle or gear selection rpm surge! I'm at 150,500 miles now so no more SULEV, but at least the car's still running perfectly.

[e91Owner]

Originally Posted by Fritzer

This has been happening on and off for the last couple months for me. The car has not thrown any codes or CEL for this. I am completely unsure of what could cause this. Any input would be appreciated.

2011 E90 LCI with N51 SULEV engine. Car was warm when the video was filmed, no accessories on except headlights, complete standstill with foot on the brakes and parking brake fully applied. Probably 2,500 miles since last oil change with Pentosin 5W-30.Listen closely before I change the gears and you can hear the rough idle, it sounds like it's pulsing.

The only thing I can think is bad MAF, O2 sensors, or crankshaft position sensor or something. But zero codes have been thrown for this. Could it possibly have to do with the transmission? Totally lost, any help or advice would be appreciated. Video embedded below.

I've been reading through all of the posts on this as yours appeared to be a common problem since the start of the e90 platform. My 2011 E91 started having the same issue . Was there ever a resolution to your problem? Short of flashing the DME, I've done everything I can thing of... and of course there are no codes.

[Fritzer]

Originally Posted by e91Owner

I've been reading through all of the posts on this as yours appeared to be a common problem since the start of the e90 platform. My 2011 E91 started having the same issue . Was there ever a resolution to your problem? Short of flashing the DME, I've done everything I can thing of... and of course there are no codes.

Nope, I'm hoping it will be sparkplugs, hopefully not coils. Going to replace sparkplugs soon as they are reaching around 60k miles.

[e91Owner]

Originally Posted by Fritzer

Nope, I'm hoping it will be sparkplugs, hopefully not coils. Going to replace sparkplugs soon as they are reaching around 60k miles.

Yeah who knows. Mine have about 10k on them. If we're ignition, I would thing you'd get a misfire. More annoying than anything serious. Guess I'll just live with it.

[Fritzer]

BUMP/Necro - In lieu of making a new post.

Still have this issue. Been swapping/cleaning vanos solenoids during each oil change, and once between oil changes. New plugs/coils, fuel cleaner + oil cleaner from Ligui Moly every oil change.

Reminder: "THIS ONLY HAPPENS IN DRIVE GEARS", additionally, it's not just the idle. If i'm not standing on the brake peddle, the car will lurch forward or backward depending on the gear.

Two things I noticed - passenger engine mount collapsed, while idling, one of the tensioners moves about 1/2" back and forth timed perfectly with how the engine surges in RPM. Could the collapsed engine mount be throwing off the idle?

Possible solutions:
-Do what AoS810 did and check to see if the cams themselves need to be re-timed
-Replace failed engine mounts(regardless)
-Fuel pressure regulator
-Vacuum leak somewhere in the intake or failing DISA/throttle body??
-Change transmission fluis/service transmission seals.
-Update transmission to current flash(someone in another thread recommended it)
-Bite the bullet and just purchase brand new VANOS solenoids(even though they haven't thrown a CEL ever, they do have some scoring on them, but no debris)
-Cam timing gear bolt sheared?(saw this on a youtube video)

What do you guys think it could possibly be?