[Ilma]

Originally Posted by dman335

^Yes I'd love to know too.

Is anyone able to shed some light on how to actually do a soft reset of the transmission using ISTA, Protool or another software?

http://wiki.bavariantechnic.com/inde...tle=Adaptation

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by Ilma

http://wiki.bavariantechnic.com/inde...tle=Adaptation

Doesn't tell you how to do a Soft Reset,

[Ilma]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Doesn't tell you how to do a Soft Reset,

You missed it from the link in my previous post....."Adaptations can be reset in Bavarian Technic from the commands window."

And here is a picture just for you!

[Ilma]

And even my 10 year old Procede piggyback can do it.

The point is that these transmission adaptation resets have been around a long time and have been copied into a lot of different available software.

I think MHD omits it because of the ongoing confusion between doing a soft reset versus a hard reset.....but it should have been easy for them to include it along with all their other adaptation resets

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by Ilma

You missed it from the link in my previous post....."Adaptations can be reset in Bavarian Technic from the commands window."

And here is a picture just for you!

Bavarian Technic?

Can you tell me how a Soft Reset can be done using MHD or Protool?

[dman335]

Originally Posted by type-dRew

From the only person I trust regarding this transmission, rod sutphin. Here is a screenshot where he explained it a bit.

I'll also include the process that needs to be followed in case of a hard reset

I just thought I'd provide an update

I contacted Rod directly regarding the 'Soft vs Hard reset'. He was happy for me to share this with all of you.

Essentially what he told me was that Protool "only zeros out the value pressure and quick times it does not ease any learned data, this is why the shifts dont even change at all. There is no need to do the driving procedure for building the learned data back in quickly since it wasn't eased. Then if you use a program like ISTA and perform a reset on the learned data if its successful you will have very different shifting as it learns and builds data back up which takes about a week of driving."



However when I contacted Protool they said "We haven't dug in enough to see what exactly is reset. We use the same telegram and reset method ista uses at the dealerships and its notation is "All Adaptations"."

I passed this on to Rod and he said Protool did not reset the learned data on his 335d and 335xi, but it did reset pressure and timing values. "But my shifting was the same. If I reset the learned data using ista or even autel there is a big difference in shifting, you can tell the shifts are much slower and crappy."



So long story short, it seems like Protool unintentionally performs a 'soft reset' by resetting the 'quickcharge pressure and quickcharge times' without resetting the learned data. Thus, it would not be necessary to perform the special driving procedure afterwards.

More importantly, these transmissions will definitely adapt by themselves, and it seems to be unnecessary to reset adaptations unless a professional transmission specialist tells you otherwise.
(For example I recently got the clutch plates replaced on a 6HP26 transmission which had a quickcharge pressure of 750mbar for Clutch E, and when I asked the specialists who did the job whether I should reset adaptations after putting the transmission back in, I was told it wouldn't be necessary-- so if it wouldn't be necessary for that then it probably wouldn't be necessary after a simple fluid/solenoid change)

[JonEQuest]

I just had my transmission rebuilt with new torque converter, remanufatured valve body (not zip kit), new solenoids, Precision Raceworks Kolene coated clutches, etc. I have problems of hard clunk going into D and there is a whirr noise with slight delay between all gears with a harsh 2-1 downshift. This happens with any flash from stock to stage 3 and after only 600 miles I have some darkness in my fluid. I am at a loss and my rebuilder says it is problems with the racing clutches. How do my adaptations look? I really have no idea what it is supposed to be.

[iqraceworks]

Call Precision Raceworks and tell them what's going on. They will be able to tell you if that's "normal" or not. I wouldn't trust your shop.....

Also, it can take up to 1,000 miles of driving for the adaptations to adjust.

I would not just take the word of your rebuilding....I'm assuming you paid a lot of money to get it rebuilt, make sure it's done right.

[JonEQuest]

Precision Raceworks pretty much says they have no idea what is wrong and they say everyone else has no problems, etc. Their solution is to have the shop take my transmission apart again and see if he can figure it out. The problem is the shop strongly recommended against aftermarket parts and he offered to rebuild with stock parts for free if I buy the parts but that would cost me several hundred more and I am back to stock. I really regret doing this rebuild. For what I spent so far I could have bought 6 used ebay transmissions and changed them out every year if needed.

One other thing is the re-builder is an old friend of mine. His shop is well respected for quality work, but he doesn't do hybrid builds or anything exotic like this. I truly believe he did everything he said he did as far as replacement of parts, etc.

[iqraceworks]

A perfect example of why I don't do business with friends. You are kind of stuck now....you either press the shop to figure out the problem or give you all of your money back.....or get stuck with a transmission that isn't right, but cost you a fortune.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

I just had my transmission rebuilt with new torque converter, remanufatured valve body (not zip kit), new solenoids, Precision Raceworks Kolene coated clutches, etc. I have problems of hard clunk going into D and there is a whirr noise with slight delay between all gears with a harsh 2-1 downshift. This happens with any flash from stock to stage 3 and after only 600 miles I have some darkness in my fluid. I am at a loss and my rebuilder says it is problems with the racing clutches. How do my adaptations look? I really have no idea what it is supposed to be.

Email XHP and ask them, they should be able to point you in yhe right direction as they know a fair bit about the ZF transmissions

Unfortunately it looks like something went wrong with the rebuild or the shop doesn't really know what they are doing.

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Email XHP and ask them, they should be able to point you in yhe right direction as they know a fair bit about the ZF transmissions

Unfortunately it looks like something went wrong with the rebuild or the shop doesn't really know what they are doing.

As far as I know...there are only a few shops in the US that actually specialize in ZF transmissions and are certified by ZF to rebuild their transmissions and sell their parts.

One of those places is called Eriksson Industries. I've talked to the guys there before, they are full of great info on those transmissions. If it was me, I could call them and tell them what's going on and maybe they can give you some advice.

A quick Google search will find them.

[JonEQuest]

I may try to contact them. The funny thing is that the issues have gotten just a little bit better. My fear is that is only because the frictions are wearing out at 600 miles.

I just found/bought another race built trans and TC today as backup from a local guy and got a decent deal on it. I figure if I can't get this one working right at least I have something that works while I fix or sell off the parts from this one. I should have remembered my old first rule of auto transmissions. They are disposable, when they break it is usually easier/cheaper to just buy another used one and not go down the rabbit hole on rebuilding costs.

[iqraceworks]

Did you reset your adaptations and then go through the entire relearn process when you install that new transmission? If not, that can be some of your problem. It may take up to a thousand miles for everything to relearn on its own.

[JonEQuest]

Yes, I did the whole song and dance of the relearning procedure. It took about an hour of driving and I have also reset adaptations at least 3 times so far. I see no noticeable changes from adaptation resets or the relearn procedure. I did email Eriksson Industries to see if they have advice.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

I just had my transmission rebuilt with new torque converter, remanufatured valve body (not zip kit), new solenoids, Precision Raceworks Kolene coated clutches, etc. I have problems of hard clunk going into D and there is a whirr noise with slight delay between all gears with a harsh 2-1 downshift. This happens with any flash from stock to stage 3 and after only 600 miles I have some darkness in my fluid. I am at a loss and my rebuilder says it is problems with the racing clutches. How do my adaptations look? I really have no idea what it is supposed to be.

Those adaptation values are within spec, nothing out of ordinary, according to what I read from XHP post on Facebook.

https://m.facebook.com/xhpflashtool/...23761651273188

[JonEQuest]

Yeah it's crazy from what I'm looking at your adaptation figures can be all over the place as long as they're not outside of certain far boundaries

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

Yeah it's crazy from what I'm looking at your adaptation figures can be all over the place as long as they're not outside of certain far boundaries

Yeah, but there shouldn't be hard clunk going into D and whiring from the gearbox, should be smooth.

From what I've seen you cam get chatter from race clutches but thats usually only when it's idling.

[iqraceworks]

If the transmission is making strange noises, clunking into gear....and the fluid is already getting dark from burnt/worn clutches.....take it back to the shop ASAP.

The guy might be your friend....but you need to say something, and have them make it right. They did something wrong. Friend or not....no way I would pay (I'm guessing multiple thousand dollars) for a transmission rebuild, and then be ok with problems.

They need to make it right.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

If the transmission is making strange noises, clunking into gear....and the fluid is already getting dark from burnt/worn clutches.....take it back to the shop ASAP.

The guy might be your friend....but you need to say something, and have them make it right. They did something wrong. Friend or not....no way I would pay (I'm guessing multiple thousand dollars) for a transmission rebuild, and then be ok with problems.

They need to make it right.

Agreed,

[JonEQuest]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

If the transmission is making strange noises, clunking into gear....and the fluid is already getting dark from burnt/worn clutches.....take it back to the shop ASAP.

The guy might be your friend....but you need to say something, and have them make it right. They did something wrong. Friend or not....no way I would pay (I'm guessing multiple thousand dollars) for a transmission rebuild, and then be ok with problems.

They need to make it right.

I totally agree. My problem is that he absolutely said he NEVER installs parts brought to him by someone else, and never installs non OEM spec parts. He said he would install what I bring him because I am friend but he strongly recommended against it. So I really don't have a lot of leverage to ask him to tear apart and troubleshoot parts he begged me not to use.

Because he is a friend he offered to rebuild it again for free labor if I buy the stock frictions. So he really is being cool but I don't want stock after all this money. Plus I fear stock will burn up again like the last transmission. I serviced the last one with new fluid, seals, filter at 75k miles. By 80k it was burned up with a ruined core. I have added a lot of power so I feel I need the upgrade. I am not sure what to do. I can't ask him to swap new valve bodies back and forth, etc.

I actually just bought a whole other "built" transmission that has the same frictions, fluid etc. and it came with a 3,500 stall converter. A local guy had it for sale because he is parting out his car after blowing the motor. It has 6k miles after the rebuild and the guys seems pretty legit. I felt it was good insurance to have something I can use in case this one burns up and I am stuck with a bad core again with no frictions, etc. If I can get mine right I will just sell the extra transmission off. I also thought of just using my "free one time R&R labor" to have this new one swapped in, but I am taking some risk and I am unsure how a 3,500 stall converter would be on the street so that is another wrinkle.

Any advice?

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

I totally agree. My problem is that he absolutely said he NEVER installs parts brought to him by someone else, and never installs non OEM spec parts. He said he would install what I bring him because I am friend but he strongly recommended against it. So I really don't have a lot of leverage to ask him to tear apart and troubleshoot parts he begged me not to use.

Because he is a friend he offered to rebuild it again for free labor if I buy the stock frictions. So he really is being cool but I don't want stock after all this money. Plus I fear stock will burn up again like the last transmission. I serviced the last one with new fluid, seals, filter at 75k miles. By 80k it was burned up with a ruined core. I have added a lot of power so I feel I need the upgrade. I am not sure what to do. I can't ask him to swap new valve bodies back and forth, etc.

I actually just bought a whole other "built" transmission that has the same frictions, fluid etc. and it came with a 3,500 stall converter. A local guy had it for sale because he is parting out his car after blowing the motor. It has 6k miles after the rebuild and the guys seems pretty legit. I felt it was good insurance to have something I can use in case this one burns up and I am stuck with a bad core again with no frictions, etc. If I can get mine right I will just sell the extra transmission off. I also thought of just using my "free one time R&R labor" to have this new one swapped in, but I am taking some risk and I am unsure how a 3,500 stall converter would be on the street so that is another wrinkle.

Any advice?

You blew a ZF6 gearbox in just 80k miles?

Exactly how much torque and power were you putting through the car?