[Samwiz94]

Hey guys, new to me 335d owner here. This is going to be the first car I plan on doing more than just maintenance to but at the same time this is a semi budget friendly daily in New Jersey (no emissions testing). Ok so the car is a white 2010 335d with 55k on it when I got it in 4/2021. So far the only things I've noticed is that this 335d has a lot more torque than anything I've ever owned before and that the shocks might be worn out due to the ride being kinda bouncy. It's tough to tell if it's entirely the car or not because the roads here in nj aren't great. But since I know an alphabet soup delete with stage 2 race tune is in the near future, I know I should take care of suspension maintenance beforehand.

Im by no means an expert but I feel very comfortable doing all the suspension work myself after replacing the entire front suspension on my rusty 200+k miles Toyota Highlander (lca, tie rods, sway bushings, end links, ball joints, wheel bearing, etc) question is what types of suspension set ups do you recommend? And also, I'm looking for a very sporty responsive ride but it has to be semi budget friendly since I want to do the alphabet delete this summer and I know that's gonna be ~$2k.

I've read about replacing the sway bars and lca's for racing and m3 equivalents, am I gonna feel the difference if I'm not on the track? I don't plan on tracking the car. This is just my version of a fun fuel efficient daily.

Thanks!

[Yozh]

If your NJ roads are in poor condition, keep factory springs if your car has a sport package. Just replace shock with something like Koni Sport. Replace top strut mounts up too. Front control arms with M3 bits. If your can find them. Rear, m3 does not make a huge difference. Toe arm spherical bushings make an impact. Do something about subframe bushings. Either M3 or Delrin/Solid.

[BB_cuda]

Be very careful when tightening the front sway bar bushing brackets. I’ve read about guy ripping out one of the studs. The studs are attached to front subframe with a sort of pressed insert. They are small M6 (or M8?) size. I just hand tightened but went easy.
Another one to go easy on the torque is the strut braces. Small h/w attached the strut braces to strut towers.
Lastly, make sure suspension at ride height when you torque in the updated control arms and toe links. Good luck and have fun.

[kbsilver]

Late to the game here, another NJ D owner. A great find, unusually low miles. Your shocks are not worn out, it is by design to compensate for the runflats. I too got tired of the bouncing, especially from the rear, and went with Bilstein B6 shocks, no other changes. Big difference. You will feel the small bumps in the road but much improved with larger bumps. Also I have not bent any rims since I changed the shocks.

At 115K miles, except for shocks car is bone stock, and has required very little maintenance. I have recently started to do some maintenance not because anything was wrong, it was time, such as belts and coolant change. Still original suspension.

[Samwiz94]

Originally Posted by kbsilver

Late to the game here, another NJ D owner. A great find, unusually low miles. Your shocks are not worn out, it is by design to compensate for the runflats. I too got tired of the bouncing, especially from the rear, and went with Bilstein B6 shocks, no other changes. Big difference. You will feel the small bumps in the road but much improved with larger bumps. Also I have not bent any rims since I changed the shocks.

At 115K miles, except for shocks car is bone stock, and has required very little maintenance. I have recently started to do some maintenance not because anything was wrong, it was time, such as belts and coolant change. Still original suspension.

Originally Posted by kbsilver

Late to the game here, another NJ D owner. A great find, unusually low miles. Your shocks are not worn out, it is by design to compensate for the runflats. I too got tired of the bouncing, especially from the rear, and went with Bilstein B6 shocks, no other changes. Big difference. You will feel the small bumps in the road but much improved with larger bumps. Also I have not bent any rims since I changed the shocks.

At 115K miles, except for shocks car is bone stock, and has required very little maintenance. I have recently started to do some maintenance not because anything was wrong, it was time, such as belts and coolant change. Still original suspension.

Thanks for the info! This is my first time with run flats and originally didn't think anything of it until you mentioned it. So I did some research and I see how divided everyone is on these but mine are used with half tread and I definitely hear more road noise and they're bouncy. I was planning on replacing them with hp summer tires and winters eventually anyways.

What other maintenance have you had to start doing? How's your emissions system holding up or did you delete and tune?

[POBEP]

Originally Posted by Samwiz94

What other maintenance have you had to start doing? How's your emissions system holding up or did you delete and tune?

At this mileage you are still have some time before major maintenance will be needed

I would do the following

Basic stuff
- air filter, fuel filter, engine oil.
(my E70 35d was serviced by dealer, yet they never replaced air filter in 50K, while paperwork said they did )

Thermostat
Check coolant temps after 10 minutes of driving.
It must show 88-89C.
Anything below 84C -> replace thermostat. do not delay.
This will "save" more expensive downstream parts from failing - Glow Plugs & module, DPF, and most SCR components.

Transmission Fluid & Filter (pan)
Replace at 60K miles. (no flush, just drain, new pan and re-fill)

Harmonic Balancer
Check for cracks. at this mileage it probably still good.
If any signs of cracks - replace HB & belts

PS fluid
If you car came with active steering - replace PS fluid (and reservoir) now
If not - wait until 100-130K.


Emissions
Things fail. just a matter of time.
My E70 had EGT, MAF, NOx sensors & SCR car replaced before 80K
My E90 had SCR tank, mixer, glow plugs & module (twice) before 130K

[Samwiz94]

Originally Posted by POBEP

At this mileage you are still have some time before major maintenance will be needed

I would do the following

Basic stuff
- air filter, fuel filter, engine oil.
(my E70 35d was serviced by dealer, yet they never replaced air filter in 50K, while paperwork said they did )

Thermostat
Check coolant temps after 10 minutes of driving.
It must show 88-89C.
Anything below 84C -> replace thermostat. do not delay.
This will "save" more expensive downstream parts from failing - Glow Plugs & module, DPF, and most SCR components.

Transmission Fluid & Filter (pan)
Replace at 60K miles. (no flush, just drain, new pan and re-fill)

Harmonic Balancer
Check for cracks. at this mileage it probably still good.
If any signs of cracks - replace HB & belts

PS fluid
If you car came with active steering - replace PS fluid (and reservoir) now
If not - wait until 100-130K.


Emissions
Things fail. just a matter of time.
My E70 had EGT, MAF, NOx sensors & SCR car replaced before 80K
My E90 had SCR tank, mixer, glow plugs & module (twice) before 130K

Thermostat
Check coolant temps after 10 minutes of driving.
It must show 88-89C.
Anything below 84C -> replace thermostat. do not delay.
This will "save" more expensive downstream parts from failing - Glow Plugs & module, DPF, and most SCR components.

^^ Haven't done this yet, Im getting ready to do the walnut blast and deletes, I already have the racepipe, downpipe. I was thinking about doing the balancer, belts, water pump and thermostat at the same while
I have the car apart but in an effort to try and lie rn myself about the amount of money I'm spending on this car, I planned on putting it off until next summer. But We'll see, I just might do it now to get it over with.

Transmission Fluid & Filter (pan)
Replace at 60K miles. (no flush, just drain, new pan and re-fill)

^^^ not sure if this has been done or not, will have to check on the service history.


PS fluid
If you car came with active steering - replace PS fluid (and reservoir) now
If not - wait until 100-130K.

^^^ I'm not sure if I have active steering or not. But steering is fine, fluid is topped off.

Emissions
Things fail. just a matter of time.
My E70 had EGT, MAF, NOx sensors & SCR car replaced before 80K
My E90 had SCR tank, mixer, glow plugs & module (twice) before 130K[/QUOTE]

^^^ I'm planning on a full delete and tune to get some more efficiency, power, reliability. I'm gonna go with Malone stage 2.9 I have a local shop that offers Malone tunes.