[nazali]

Hey Guy's,

A question, when I didn't realize how sensitive, delicate and the correct use of torque wrenches where, I used to use mine and misuse mine.

So, what I understand now is and i store them correctly and use them simply for tightening bolts.

So a question, is there a simple way for me to test the accuracy of my 2 torque wrenches, a long one and a short one.

I was thinking of buying a new one or 2, but again your not sure how accurate they are.

Should I calibrate mine, send it away (which might be more expensive than buying a new one)

BUY a new one and just hope.

If I buy one, I see some fancy digital ones are they any good ?

Txs

[nazali]

I came across this video, (I don't have a vice) any thoughts on this method ?

txs again

[Efthreeoh]

There are numerous sources on the internet for home calibration of torque wrenches to look to for guidance. But honestly, it's a car you're working on, not spacecraft. Outside of torquing engine internals and cylinderheads, the precision of your torque wrench is pretty much immaterial.

If you are torquing down wheel bolts to 88 pound-foot using a click type wrench, if it is off by a few percent it is not critical.

Common use of TQ wrench for yard-monkey DIY'ers is for spark plugs. There you should only use a 3/8ths-drive beam-style torque wrench.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

There are numerous sources on the internet for home calibration of torque wrenches to look to for guidance. But honestly, it's a car you're working on, not spacecraft. Outside of torquing engine internals and cylinderheads, the precision of your torque wrench is pretty much immaterial.

If you are torquing down wheel bolts to 88 pound-foot using a click type wrench, if it is off by a few percent it is not critical.

Common use of TQ wrench for yard-monkey DIY'ers is for spark plugs. There you should only use a 3/8ths-drive beam-style torque wrench.

I agree.

It's not a Mars lander you are putting together and the wrench is to make sure you are in the ballpark and don't go He-Man on the little bolts that don't need to know you just benched a personal record.

[DETRoadster]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

There are numerous sources on the internet for home calibration of torque wrenches to look to for guidance. But honestly, it's a car you're working on, not spacecraft. Outside of torquing engine internals and cylinderheads, the precision of your torque wrench is pretty much immaterial.

If you are torquing down wheel bolts to 88 pound-foot using a click type wrench, if it is off by a few percent it is not critical.

Common use of TQ wrench for yard-monkey DIY'ers is for spark plugs. There you should only use a 3/8ths-drive beam-style torque wrench.

Sound advice right here.

OP, just the fact that you own and use a torque wrench puts you ahead of 90% of the pack. Unless you've literally attempted to destroy yours by throwing it off a building, I doubt your "misuse" is enough to make much of a difference in its accuracy. Dont sweat all the dudes that get all worked up becuase you used yours to loosen some bolts or ddint back the torque settign down tozero befoe you stored it. Like Efthreeoh said, you arent working on a spaceship.

[frchdragon]

I did multiple headgaskets and a couple of engine rebuild with a click type wrench.
I have done hundreds of suspension replacement also.

Except if your wrench is really off, you will be fine.
Basically torquing with a couple of % off is better than not torquing at all and losing a plug or a wheel.

[nazali]

hey !!!

txs all for the replies....

The only misues has been either using it as a breaker bar on lug nuts, throwing it in the tool box or it falling on the concrete garage floor.

Yes, mainly for lug's but I have done other work, nothing too major and few and far between.

I'll mebe hold of the calibration. I might treat myself though to a husky 50-250 ft. lbs 1/2" $137 and/or 3/8 $118 just because buying tools makes me feel good !


txs all again, some great answers

[nazali]

LOL txs made me feel a "LOT" better thank you

Originally Posted by DETRoadster

OP, just the fact that you own and use a torque wrench puts you ahead of 90% of the pack. Unless you've literally attempted to destroy yours by throwing it off a building, I doubt your "misuse" is enough to make much of a difference in its accuracy. Dont sweat all the dudes that get all worked up becuase you used yours to loosen some bolts or ddint back the torque settign down tozero befoe you stored it. Like Efthreeoh said, you arent working on a spaceship.

[Torgus]

They make tq testers. But those also have to be calibrated as well from time to time IIRC. They are also not cheap. We use this style at work: https://www.toolup.com/Proto-J6476-E...4aAogfEALw_wcB

Honestly as long as you set them back to zero, are gentle with them, only use them for tightening, and it's not used all that often they last a decent while in calibration from my experience. Then again I have always used high quality tq wrenches from the beginning, I imagine cheaper ones will get out of spec much quicker. If you use them daily in a shop or in manufacturing it makes sense to at least check them for accuracy on a normal schedule. It is part of our PM schedule for all tools/machiones/ etc.

Yes the fancy digital ones like the ones from snap on or CDI are nice. But do you really need a $700 torque wrench? https://shop.snapon.com/product/Tech...)/ATECH3FR300B

My buddies race lemons, the only things they tq is their lug nuts.

I usually only use my tq wrench for a few specific fasteners that I am anal/concerned about. 90% of the fasteners on personal cars I have worked on have been hand tightened and never had any issues or anything come loose or stripped because of over tightening.

It is your money. If you sleep better at night go for it.

[ro881e]

If the question really is ' how can I check the accuracy' and NOT 'can I use wrenches out of calibration' then It's just physics. Tighten any nut to a measurable value (5Nm for example, can do same theory in other units of course) then measure your torque wrench length (e.g. 0.5m) then hang a bottle of water of known volume off the end (e.g. 1L = 1kg = ~10N) and the product is the answer. 10x 0.5 = 5Nm. Adjust the water fill lower or higher until the nut moves or doesn't move. There is your answer.

[Tommy-G]

I had to do this for my techs to become Subaru certified. Its actually pretty cool, had no idea it was even a thing. Here is some quick online pricing I found

[Maynard]

Using one to loosen lug nuts (or other 'breaker-bar' type use) is not good; if you did much of that I'd check it at least. If you call around, either a Snap On dealer or perhaps even a tool/auto parts store may have a tester you can come in and use to check yours. Or do a home test (like in the video, but use a known weight). If it isn't close to spec, probably simpler to replace unless yours has an easy adjuster. I found a basic Craftsman 1/2" that is fine for lug nuts for about $50. And get the real lug specs for your car - M2C uses 106ft/lb, not the 88# noted above.

[nazali]

txs Maynard,
yes I had heard that, back home used it to loosen, never heard of a breaker bar LOL
mines a 2 series C with msport package (no blue calipers) does that matter ?
without looking it up, not sure of the torque
Had my torque for ohhh, about 10 years, at least

[Maynard]

Originally Posted by nazali

txs Maynard,
yes I had heard that, back home used it to loosen, never heard of a breaker bar LOL
mines a 2 series C with msport package (no blue calipers) does that matter ?
without looking it up, not sure of the torque
Had my torque for ohhh, about 10 years, at least

If you mean yours is a 2 series coupe (original 228/M235, or 230/M240) then those are also 106ft#; or call the dealership, they should be able to tell you (don't trust the tire stores, as I've had them quote me bad info in past - I think most cars use the 85-90 range so it is often given out as a generic).

[nazali]

ok let me try again,, 2 series vert, 230xdrive, 18" rims, square setup

Originally Posted by Maynard

If you mean yours is a 2 series coupe (original 228/M235, or 230/M240) then those are also 106ft#; or call the dealership, they should be able to tell you (don't trust the tire stores, as I've had them quote me bad info in past - I think most cars use the 85-90 range so it is often given out as a generic).

[Littlebear]

Originally Posted by Maynard

....- M2C uses 106ft/lb, not the 88# noted above.

Wow! Does the M2C have four lug bolts or something?

[Maynard]

Originally Posted by nazali

ok let me try again,, 2 series vert, 230xdrive, 18" rims, square setup

That would be 106#; nice ride; I love my 228 xdrive, but I was killing her on track. Add a convertible top and I think you have the total package.

[nazali]

I found a $100 HD gift card, and took a stroll to see there husky one, $137, but God, it's a big old thing. Much bigger than my existing long one.

Then I thought do I really need 250ft/lbs of torque on a wrench LOL

So looked at other smaller ones, but they only had like 3/8" I wanted a 1/2"

Then I had a long think and thought do I wanna blow $130 on a wrench, so I gave up and went home LOL

[Fritzer]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

If you are torquing down wheel bolts to 88 pound-foot using a click type wrench, if it is off by a few percent it is not critical.

*ahem* - BMW Service Procedure requires, at minimum, 120Nm of torque on the lug bolts. This translates to 88.507lb-ft in Imperial. Torqueing the lug bolts to only 88lb-ft is simply dangerous, the wheels may even fall off the car when parked at such low torque specifications....