[DaanBMW]

Originally Posted by wayman519

I replaced the solenoids - ran ISTA D to calibrate the VANOS and check back with INPA. All vanos values were withing 0.3 Degree's.

What calibration is that? I've swapped plenty of vanos solenoids. I've never heard of Vanos calibration. Only have INPA but still... Can you pls elaborate?

[wayman519]

Originally Posted by DaanBMW

What calibration is that? I've swapped plenty of vanos solenoids. I've never heard of Vanos calibration. Only have INPA but still... Can you pls elaborate?

Here is my procedure - I don't think the calibration is required as the ECU does it continuously with adaptions but there is an automated sequence in ISTA D :

- on ISTA D - run a FULL car diagnostics scan/test ( this allows the Type ABL functions)

- Search VANOS under [vehicle management, troubleshooting , text search]
- You will see:
ABL - Intake Camshaft Sensor
ABL - Exhaust Camshaft Sensor
Follow both above to Vanos Tests

- It will ask for you to turn on the engine
- the engine will automatically go to 1200RPM
- the computer starts position tests of the VANOS
- its will then say adapting engine timing.

Other cars have this in different sections like the M3 and M5 does the same thing but worded specifically for VANOS calibration

[wayman519]

Notes:
- Intake and Exhaust camshaft tests are separate so 2 will need to be conducted
- The fault code for VANOS position is > +10 degree's or <- 10 degrees. So you can have a +-5 Degrees error (total 10 ) and the car thinks everything is fine. So imagine 10 degrees off on the intake + 10 degrees off on the exhaust. You have a total of 20 degrees off on your engine timing and the car still thinks everything is ok.

Bimmerprofs covers this very issue in great detail. Looks like this was used to save costs on solenoids during warranty.

[steifan]

Originally Posted by wayman519

Here is my procedure - I don't think the calibration is required as the ECU does it continuously with adaptions but there is an automated sequence in ISTA D :

- on ISTA D - run a FULL car diagnostics scan/test ( this allows the Type ABL functions)

- Search VANOS under [vehicle management, troubleshooting , text search]
- You will see:
ABL - Intake Camshaft Sensor
ABL - Exhaust Camshaft Sensor
Follow both above to Vanos Tests

- It will ask for you to turn on the engine
- the engine will automatically go to 1200RPM
- the computer starts position tests of the VANOS
- its will then say adapting engine timing.

Other cars have this in different sections like the M3 and M5 does the same thing but worded specifically for VANOS calibration

That calibration is available in INPA as well, at least the version I am running

[juld0zer]

Originally Posted by steifan

That calibration is available in INPA as well, at least the version I am running

Do you mind sharing the INPA method also?
I usually use ISTA and agree that some functions disappear in later versions or reappear under different ABLs.

[wayman519]

So I have an issue that was masked by my failing vanos solenoids. I am in the process of diagnosing it. But I suspect its my PCV valve. It was never replaced.
(210,000 KM on the clock)

Symptoms:

- Again no fault codes in ISTA or INPA
- Long Term Fuel Trims - roughly +6% at idle on both banks (Suggests a leak somewhere )
- I hear a whine in my engine bay when accelerating (from cabin, its faint but sounds like the engine is struggling) (this was intermittent but seems to be happening more since I resolved my Vanos issues)
- low torque at low RPM (very noticeable on a 6mt)
- high rpm power is decent, but whine is very loud
- oil consumption (fluctuates between 0 - 1L per 5000KM - got better since I fixed vanos)

- here is the kicker - when I open my oil cap engine off, the engine is under small vacuum it makes a small sucking noise and I presume pressures in the crankcase normalizes. After performing this the car is back to 100% full power and is quiet at low rpm and - smooth as hell to 7k rpm for 1 driving cycle)


I will be performing all diagnostics from the blog below - there are 4 parts to this blog

https://bimmerprofs.com/crankcase-ventilation/
https://bimmerprofs.com/crankcase-ventilation-part2/
https://bimmerprofs.com/check-ccv-part-3/
https://bimmerprofs.com/ccv-part-4/


Update:
- PCV checked out ok
- found NEW fault in DME - MASS AIR SYSTEM

- tested MAF with OBD live data reader with MAF connected RPM idle air flow is [2.8 grams/ sec]
- MAF disconnected calculated MAF value is [3.5grams / sec]

- I am currently running the car with MAF disconnected. Power is great, fuel economy got better 7.9L/100km
- I have a new SIEMENS VDO MAF on order. Will update when that is in. If there is still issues I will have to SMOKE test the intake system.

[E92William]

I had that whine issue and it wasn't long before it completely shit the bed. The pcv finished up getting clogged and would stall the engine at low rpm, where it didn't have much power either. Replaced entire valve cover. Also masked by vanos codes which were unrelated.

[wayman519]

Update:
- PCV checked out ok
- found NEW fault in DME - MASS AIR SYSTEM

- tested MAF with OBD live data reader with MAF connected RPM idle air flow is [2.8 grams/ sec]
- MAF disconnected calculated MAF value is [3.5grams / sec]

- I am currently running the car with MAF disconnected. Power is great, fuel economy got better 7.9L/100km
- I have a new SIEMENS VDO MAF on order. Will update when that is in. If there is still issues I will have to SMOKE test the intake system.

Another update just for a record to help:

Problem continued with new MAF so my last resort was air leaks.

- I logged the cars fuel trims, mass etc air while I drove to work everyday. I used the
dash command app for phone with a generic obd2 wifi adapter. I needed to check measurements at idle and with load.

- This still did not give me a clear picture. My trims jumped around depending on temperature of day . I did not smoke test yet as I did not have the materials.

- Completely pissed I just dismantled the intake right up to the manifold. Throttle body gasket was hard and dry, throttle body bolts were loose. Corrosion on the top of the throttle body matting surface. All boots checked out ok. I cleaned up the throttle body, replaced gasket and lubed all making surfaces. I then used a socket not a flat head to tighten all the hose clamps. No movement in the intake whatsoever! (Throttle body (N52) bolts are reusable and torqued to (9nm) gradually in a cross pattern.

- After engine adaptation reset and long drives Long term Fuel trims are now stable at -5% idle +-1% at load, short term are stable at +- 3% with light throttle changes. Performance is incredible now! I think my intake manifold and ccv hoses need the same treatment just for preventative maintenance. I will try to upgrade all the hoses to something more durable.

[E92William]

I would have flashed the bimmerlabs 330i maf delete tune and swapped in a euro iat sensor

[wayman519]

Originally Posted by E92William

I would have flashed the bimmerlabs 330i maf delete tune and swapped in a euro iat sensor

Interesting, I was looking into the 330i maf delete tune but the IAT slipped my mind. Do I need a 3SIM or can I get away with my standard one till say next year without performance loss? Sound like there is no cons to running the flash with only the sensor swap based on your project post but I need confirmation

I am also waiting on your guide. I do need a PSU and some balls to flash my ECU lol.

Are you using Bimmerlabs cable, generic or ICOM?
Is the Euro IAT a custom install on the US intake box or is there an install point somewhere ?

[E92William]

I'm currently using the standard manifold and the car runs fine I'd say bit stronger in the low end and upper rpm, lightly but noticeable. Ofc the manifold is the best way to go. Though I have just the 330i tune not the mafless tune so I can't speak for that one on a stock car. I'll see if I can get around to putting together a video of the process.

I think the IAT fits in the same place as the stock Maf, again I don't have it so I can't confirm, what I do know is the mafless tune doesn't let you have cruise control which can be a drawback until the tune gets sorted for that issue.

I'm using a bimmergeeks cable.

[neo61uk]

Originally Posted by DaanBMW

What calibration is that? I've swapped plenty of vanos solenoids. I've never heard of Vanos calibration. Only have INPA but still... Can you pls elaborate?

Hi Daan

Waking up this old but useful thread, with possible solutions for others.

I have found this post when looking for some solutions to my 630i n52b30 issues.
I have exact same problems as you described and some other users.

I can see you have posted in here for many years without a fix.

I also tried all the known bits, sparks, coils, vanos solenoids etc.
Mine being 30i is three stage intake with 2 disa valves. Found big disa faulty so fixed it and still nothing.

However recently tried something I found on other site, and it worked. Car drives much smoother too, there is no cold start rev hunting, no rev drops and most importantly, no more up hill, high gear - low rev hesitation.

I have used my Ista to delete all the engine adaptations.
I have then follow instructions with how to readapt them.
Instant results.

I hope that helps someone in future.

[Phil325i]

Useful update, thanks. I hope it works for you, but a warning it may not provide a lasting solution. After clearing the adaptations, the engine 'adapts' again over time and if the source of the issue isn't addressed, the hesitation will return.

[neo61uk]

Originally Posted by Phil325i

Useful update, thanks. I hope it works for you, but a warning it may not provide a lasting solution. After clearing the adaptations, the engine 'adapts' again over time and if the source of the issue isn't addressed, the hesitation will return.

Relearn process takes couple starts and 200-300 Miles.
I've done more than this now, and car drives amazing 🤞🏻🤞🏻

Many people were throwing parts at it without reset, I have seen BMW document saying that those adaptations should be reset after every electrical component change ie Coil packs, vanos solenoids etc.

[DaanBMW]

Originally Posted by neo61uk

Relearn process takes couple starts and 200-300 Miles.
I've done more than this now, and car drives amazing 🤞🏻🤞🏻

Many people were throwing parts at it without reset, I have seen BMW document saying that those adaptations should be reset after every electrical component change ie Coil packs, vanos solenoids etc.

I do a complete reset each time I connect INPA to the car. Not solved anything. Driveability is better right away but the core of my issue is unchanged. And I do a acceleration reset each time I wait at a gas station to fill up. Why BMW thought these adaptations are a good idea is beyond me, I'd diss them in a heartbeat, but that's a different story.

[neo61uk]

Originally Posted by DaanBMW

I do a complete reset each time I connect INPA to the car. Not solved anything. Driveability is better right away but the core of my issue is unchanged. And I do a acceleration reset each time I wait at a gas station to fill up. Why BMW thought these adaptations are a good idea is beyond me, I'd diss them in a heartbeat, but that's a different story.

I'm not sure about inpa and not saying it does it differently, but did you ever try full adapatations reset via Ista? And then follow re adaptation from link below?

https://bimmerprofs.com/re-adaptatio...-using-ista-d/

[steifan]

Originally Posted by neo61uk

I'm not sure about inpa and not saying it does it differently, but did you ever try full adapatations reset via Ista? And then follow re adaptation from link below?

https://bimmerprofs.com/re-adaptatio...-using-ista-d/

In INPA you can reset adaptions for lambda, octane in fuel, throttle, VANOS, Valvetronic, DISA-actuation etc individually under the DME module.

[neo61uk]

Originally Posted by steifan

In INPA you can reset adaptions for lambda, octane in fuel, throttle, VANOS, Valvetronic, DISA-actuation etc individually under the DME module.

I do have inpa too, but it's much easier, clearer via Ista, and it worked.
Worth a try i would say.

[DaanBMW]

Originally Posted by neo61uk

I do have inpa too, but it's much easier, clearer via Ista, and it worked.
Worth a try i would say.

The resets are the same, I'm pretty sure. ISTA is newer than INPA so maybe easier/better interface but resets are not solving anything more than driveability issues. I've done them individually and overall, they are great but not a solution to what I'm experiencing.

[BimwaPSR]

I have a very similar hesitation issue that an adaptation reset smoothed out a few months ago. Now it's back which makes me think that either the adaption wasn't done properly or there is actually a mechanical issue somewhere. What I haven't been able to do is replicate the hesitation in manual mode which again makes me think it's a software issue.

When needing to accelerate quickly eg junctions, roundabouts I usually stick it into DS to avoid it jerking or hesitating and leaving me in a sticky situation. Very frustrating.

[steifan]

I've posted a few posts earlier in the thread (latest low torque/hesitation at high ambient temp) but I noticed I had a crack in the lower PCV-hose (where the oil stick would go if it had one) while replacing the transmission mounts. I fixed the leak temporarily and boy did that fix the torque hesitation. It now feels like it did occasionally before (pretty good torque for a N/A car above 2000rpm). I must have damaged the connector on the lower pcv hose while mounting that hose while replacing all of the system. I might add that I've also replace VANOS solenoids (genuine), vanos check-valves (genuine), maf (Continental-VDO), both DISA's (genuine) and entire PCV system (cheapo whatchamacallit) as all those parts (except PCV) have given codes before so I've probably had a combination of problems. Will see if if the epic torque lasts if the ambient temperature heats up as well, I will report back on that.. might be next year if unlucky.