[dleccord]

hello. ive been losing coolant like crazy. expansion tank and hoses coming off from there and from engine block all look dry to me. but the puddle is coming from the driver side right above the intercoolor. cars got 89k miles on it. is it time for a new radiator? thanks!

[mang.vang]

My radiator leaked exactly at that same spot, replaced it which solved my issue. Check on top to see if its coming from the top.

[dleccord]

Originally Posted by mang.vang

My radiator leaked exactly at that same spot, replaced it which solved my issue. Check on top to see if its coming from the top.

Will check again but I removed the air scoops and checked that thin tube running across the radiator but that looked fine.

What radiator did you end up getting?

[Wolf 335]

Common problem. Do not get a Mahle-Behr rad because they are very prone to this recurring issue.

Make sure you replace the o-rings on the small elbow connections for the transmission cooling line.

If you’re keeping the car for the next 5 years get yourself an all aluminum version.

[mang.vang]

Originally Posted by dleccord

Will check again but I removed the air scoops and checked that thin tube running across the radiator but that looked fine.

What radiator did you end up getting?

I had fcpeuro lifetime on Mhale but before that i had a csf oem. Csf lasted about 2 years, the Mhale under one year. I'd like to go aluminum but its already a pain installing and removing the fan with the stock rad i can only imagine how much worse it is for a thicker aluminum.

[Ten-Zing]

I have all aluminum CSF's installed on two 335's with N54 and N55. Fits no problem, in fact the mounts for the fan on the aluminum radiator are easier to work with.

My only issue was on the N54 I have inlets and it's a squeeze for the inlet now.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by mang.vang

I had fcpeuro lifetime on Mhale but before that i had a csf oem. Csf lasted about 2 years, the Mhale under one year. I'd like to go aluminum but its already a pain installing and removing the fan with the stock rad i can only imagine how much worse it is for a thicker aluminum.

This job is super easy. Since you radiators aren’t lasting long at all plus all crack on same spot you must have another issue.

[dleccord]

Originally Posted by Wolf 335

Common problem. Do not get a Mahle-Behr rad because they are very prone to this recurring issue.

Make sure you replace the o-rings on the small elbow connections for the transmission cooling line.

If you’re keeping the car for the next 5 years get yourself an all aluminum version.

I was thinking of the aluminum CSF at first but I might just get the OEM BMW radiator and save $200. If the quality is the same then that will be good enough for me. The car is a 2011 and this radiator have lasted over a decade so that’s good enough. It’s not good as my 1998 Tacoma which has 312k miles on its original radiator!

[ab987]

Originally Posted by dleccord

I was thinking of the aluminum CSF at first but I might just get the OEM BMW radiator and save $200. If the quality is the same then that will be good enough for me. The car is a 2011 and this radiator have lasted over a decade so that’s good enough. It’s not good as my 1998 Tacoma which has 312k miles on its original radiator!

That's exactly how I saw it, plus I'm sure FCP might still be around to warranty it in 10 years time