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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > BMW B12 Pro Kit



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      04-04-2022, 01:08 PM   #23
kazbek1
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Originally Posted by Salzamani View Post
Guys I’m doing the install today. I’m at the work bench with Bilstein struts fully Assembled and I’m noticing that even though I have the 22mm strut top nut fully tightened there is a tiny bit of play between the strut mount and the part that is right below it which I think is the perch if I’m not mistaking about the part name. I did replace the strut mount with the Lemforder mount so the parts are new. I also noticed the play on the old strut after removing it off the vehicle. But I would say this play is slightly more on the Lemforder than on the original strut mount. My question is is that play normal?
Sorry to revive this thread but how did you tighten the 22mm top nut? I have a new Lemforder strut mount and none of the sockets fit in the strut mount opening to fit around the nut and tighten.
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      04-04-2022, 01:27 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by kazbek1 View Post
Sorry to revive this thread but how did you tighten the 22mm top nut? I have a new Lemforder strut mount and none of the sockets fit in the strut mount opening to fit around the nut and tighten.
I don’t own the 335i anymore. Let me try to recall what I did. I think I tried many things and at the end I just tightened it without a torque wrench. I just used an open wrench and through a allen wrench on the middle stud to keep it from turning. I own a Scion tC now and also did the stunts on that car as well. I have come to the conclusion that despite what a lot of say about not using a impact wrench on that nut the pro’s all use it carefully and just call it a day. It takes them literally 5 seconds and they move on. Just make it nice and tight as in when it stops turning then that’s good enough. Hope that helps. Let me know.
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      04-04-2022, 02:32 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kazbek1 View Post
Sorry to revive this thread but how did you tighten the 22mm top nut? I have a new Lemforder strut mount and none of the sockets fit in the strut mount opening to fit around the nut and tighten.
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=11
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      04-04-2022, 05:50 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Salzamani View Post
I don’t own the 335i anymore. Let me try to recall what I did. I think I tried many things and at the end I just tightened it without a torque wrench. I just used an open wrench and through a allen wrench on the middle stud to keep it from turning. I own a Scion tC now and also did the stunts on that car as well. I have come to the conclusion that despite what a lot of say about not using a impact wrench on that nut the pro’s all use it carefully and just call it a day. It takes them literally 5 seconds and they move on. Just make it nice and tight as in when it stops turning then that’s good enough. Hope that helps. Let me know.
Thanks so much for the reply, man. Yea, I tried using an existing 22mm socket but it was too thick and wouldn't fit in the opening of the mount to tighten the nut. Then I went out and got a 22mm spark plug socket so I could use that with an allen key to keep the center from moving. Ended up being too thick again . Went out a second time with nut and strut mount in hand and made sure the new socket fit - thankfully I grabbed the last one in stock. I read the same thing as well: don't use an impact. But at the end of the day, I used your logic and got everything on fine with the impact.
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      04-04-2022, 05:52 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by dmatre View Post
Damn, I should've just done that! I ended up just using a thinner walled socket and impact gunning it.
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      04-04-2022, 05:55 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by kazbek1 View Post
Damn, I should've just done that! I ended up just using a thinner walled socket and impact gunning it.
Don’t sweat it you’ll be fine.
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      04-05-2022, 11:32 AM   #29
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When I did mine, I used a pass-through socket set.

Next time I do any strut work (thinking of the B12 pro kit this summer!) I won't have to worry about it since I'm taking the strut assemblies to a suspension shop who has a wall mounted spring compressor and I'm paying them to assemble the struts onto the springs with the mounts. The threaded spring compressors I used were extremely difficult to work with, even on larger SUV springs I did last year, and I vowed never to do that again.
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      04-05-2022, 01:50 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by lowrydr310 View Post
When I did mine, I used a pass-through socket set.

Next time I do any strut work (thinking of the B12 pro kit this summer!) I won't have to worry about it since I'm taking the strut assemblies to a suspension shop who has a wall mounted spring compressor and I'm paying them to assemble the struts onto the springs with the mounts. The threaded spring compressors I used were extremely difficult to work with, even on larger SUV springs I did last year, and I vowed never to do that again.
Are they assembling all 4 of your struts. What do they charge total for the labor?
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      04-06-2022, 11:25 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Salzamani View Post
Are they assembling all 4 of your struts. What do they charge total for the labor?
Only two struts on the front suspension, rear has separate shocks/springs and they're easy to replace, no spring compressor needed there. I haven't checked around yet but I estimate it shouldn't cost much more than $100.
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