4862 and 4990 on 2010 X5

AlpineX · 07-16-2017, 03:24 PM

Finally got an M57 for the Fam last week, 2010 X5 with 100k

Coolant temp was hanging around low 60s*, horrible fuel econ, a couple pending codes but no CEL and passed emissions as-is (as-was).
I put in a thermostat yesterday, desperately trying to get the car to regen.

After the thermostat (main only), I went on a 30 min highway drive.
Temps were good ranging from 85* to 88*. There was an ordered Regen that looks like it started to take place, egt up to 1050*f, then dropped (cancelled?).

I pulled over, cleared all the pending codes from earlier and started again. It looks like the car tried to regen again, getting to about 900* before dropping back to normal. I still read 22+bar (I think?) pre cat pressure.

I have two soft codes that keep returning after driving short distances (on 3 consecutive trips):
4862 Air System, Air to EGR Mass Flow Plausibility
and
4990 Exhaust Gas Pressure Sensor Before Turbocharger Plausibility

The Thermo job went alright, one of the coolant connections got caught behind the EGR after install, so I had to squeeze it past the plastic arm on the EGR vacuum valve underneath the cooler. Hoping that didnt damage the arm assembly. Thinking that was a culprit, I tested it with vacuum. First attempt held no vacuum, so I cut 1/4" off each end of the lower hose for a better seal. Now it will actuate the valve at 15 in hg, and the valve returns when released. When I try to actuate it from the T-junction further up, it appears I have a small leak, not sure how to test the electric valve, going to replace both lines with new today and retest.

I saw lpcapitals thread where he had to trick the DDE into thinking the pressure was closer than it was, but I don't think mine is as severe since I didnt get any lights for DPF and dont have any glow issues. (plus it seems like the car made a legitimate effort to regen after the thermo).

Any insight to what my hurdle is? How I can make this regenerate? My scanner can read most pids but does not have functionality to test SCR functions.

Thanks

robnitro · 07-16-2017, 05:43 PM

Egr airflow plausibility is from either bad maf or what i think in your case, an egr leak or clogged egr valve.

The exhaust gas plausibility might need that mod to fool the computer. 22 bar? That's like 300 psi! Mbar well that's fine and 0.3psi

AlpineX · 07-16-2017, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robnitro

Egr airflow plausibility is from either bad maf or what i think in your case, an egr leak or clogged egr valve.

The exhaust gas plausibility might need that mod to fool the computer. 22 bar? That's like 300 psi! Mbar well that's fine and 0.3psi

The EGR valve looked good with low buildup, there was no real buildup in the EGR cooler.

I did remove the MAF along with the filter housing, so that got touched, unplugged and moved around. The EGR cooler came off as well, and seemed to go back on with no real issues, torque sequence followed. No typical "exhaust leak" sounds or diesel smells.

The reading hangs around 22000 mbar, which @ 300psi+, seems high. Does not fluctuate significantly.
I also show that I do not have a pending Regen.

Through a different scanning method and reading real time data, I get the readings:
Exhaust pressure Bank1 15psi, Diesel Particulate Filter Delta Pressure 20.299psi.
The DPF Delta Pressure seems to stay around 20.299 at idle but increases with engine speed, up to 150psi (driving mildly). This seems to be the pre cat pressure, the Bank1 acts as post cat pressure, spanning from about 15psi to 25psi.

It seems like I am getting different readings from this tool, unless I am getting my sensors confused.

robnitro · 07-16-2017, 11:37 PM

Which tool are you using? Torque with the custom pids works well. I attached it for you.
Unzip it into the folder extendedpids in the .torque folder. Some file browsers on android don't show folders with a period behind it, so if you have torque and don't see it, get a good for browser like "fx"

AlpineX · 07-25-2017, 07:17 PM

Carly showed up in the mail yesterday.
I was able to force a regen and watched my soot mass burn up from 30 to 0, but it was not logged as a successful regen (which remains constant at 422).

I Still have my two codes, I presume one or both are preventing automatic regenerations.

I reinspected both charge pipes for installation errors, and got a scope around the entire EGR cooler to check for exhaust soot, none. Wondering if I damaged the flap actuator on the cooler or the electrovacuum valve?

Maybe time again to look at the EGR valve, I think I verified that it is an updated version but I don't recall how or where I saw that. Didn't seem too gunked up when I was in there.

Other interesting thing, Carly says that the last successful regen was at 95k, almost 2500 miles ago (split between previous owner and I). I suppose they traded it in when they saw performance or economy plummet.

Yozh · 07-25-2017, 11:20 PM

In my experience Carly mileage at last regen is not an exact value. For me it was always lagging by 2500km.

To test the electric switchover valve on your EGR cooler (high pressure) you can test electrical integrity by testing the resistance between the leads. Should be 14kOhm(hope I remember that value correctly) or you can apply vacuum to input nipple and it should hold vacuum to 29inHg when deenergized. Once you determine the valve is good. Then test the vacuum actuator with a hand pump.

AlpineX · 08-09-2017, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yozh

In my experience Carly mileage at last regen is not an exact value. For me it was always lagging by 2500km.

To test the electric switchover valve on your EGR cooler (high pressure) you can test electrical integrity by testing the resistance between the leads. Should be 14kOhm(hope I remember that value correctly) or you can apply vacuum to input nipple and it should hold vacuum to 29inHg when deenergized. Once you determine the valve is good. Then test the vacuum actuator with a hand pump.

My 4990 Exhaust pressure plausibility was (at least) a clogged line to the pressure sensor. Didnt check values yet to confirm whether or not the sensor survived or perished, the blockage was a couple inches long just prior to the transition to rubber hose (cleaned with wire brush reamer, chemical, and mightyvac). Road test with full heat cycle did not bring back the code. Going back under the knife tomorrow for some more work so will confirm. This fault never caused the CEL to illuminate.

Thanks for the testing info for the vacuum part. I'll check the switchover valve this morning, I still believe i have an issue in this location. My electrical comprehension is not anything to write home about, The meter I have is CM100 which is supposed to read resistance in that range. I'll have access to another meter in a couple hours to rule out damage on my meter.

My MPG gauge is pegged max at idle, then reads seemingly accurate (and low) under load. I didnt notice this before I did the thermostat.
It seems this gauge activity could be caused by a vacuum leak that is minor, though Im not sure how this guage is calculated on a Forced Induction BMW.

robnitro · 08-09-2017, 01:55 PM

The mpg gauge is doing a calculation of fuel flow vs speed. If your dpf, etc was severely restrictive, you would be using more fuel for the same power due to back pressure.
It goes to max at idle on most bmw's that I've seen. It's not realistic.
But yeah according to the calculation, at idle, the reading should be zero miles per gallon at idle because none of the fuel is being used to move you. Maybe they did it because it would make the needle swing wildly from high mpg to 0 at you coast to a stop?

AlpineX · 08-10-2017, 03:15 AM

Switchover valve @ hpegr is 34 ohms across the contacts

Looks like the clogged line was the source of both codes. Neither have returned after multiple trips and over 100 miles.

I have an unnatural hesitation (>1sec) under hard acceleration from cruise and slow/stop. Seems like a vacuum leak with turbo actuation being affected. Guess vacuum system moves higher on the list, all lines are a little brittle feeling, and failures definitely imminent.

sgrice · 12-17-2017, 05:13 PM

Just want to give a big thanks to AlpineX. I've been chasing the 4862 and 4990 codes for the past several months. I would clear them with Carly, but then (just like AlpineX) they would return within 15-20 miles of driving. Replaced the air temperature sensor and exhaust pressure sensor without success. I believe I had seen this post in the past, but somehow it didn't register to me that the cause of the codes was solved!

Anyway, just as for AlpineX, the line going from the exhaust manifold to the exhaust pressure sensor was clogged just distal to the rubber hose. Seemed like it was filled with concrete! Soaked in acetone, brake cleaner, followed with coat hanger sections hooked up to a drill - finally achieved success. And (drum roll, please) . . . No More Codes! Woot, woot!

If anybody else deals with this be aware that the banjo bolt torque to the exhaust manifold is 35 Nm. I remember in a post some years ago someone over-tightened it and stripped it. Apparently a real pain in the neck to fix - I believe it required removing the turbos to get the exhaust manifold replaced.

Anyway, thanks again to AlpineX! Feels good to have this fixed.

AlpineX · 12-18-2017, 11:20 AM

Glad it helped. Thanks for the Thermostat pics in your thread as I referenced yours before I did mine

.

As a follow up:
-Ultimately, later I also swapped the actual pressure sensor (because I had it as a non-returnable special order).
-The hose is actually not very expensive. I would have preferred a new hose over cleaning the old for the price, but this is an item that was not available on the day I found the clog.
-There is a function in Ista+ to notify the DDE that you changed the pressure sensor
-I got an additional mileage and power boost with the hose functioning (assume running on actual maps instead of calculated maps)
-Heat up the banjo bolt before removing. I started with the engine warm, cracked the bolt then let things cool down a bit.
-Makes me wonder what the inside of the leading differential sensor hose looks like, I imagine there is at least some restriction.

No update on my lag that I still think is vacuum. I have all the parts except hose. Hope to dig into to my box of parts soon.

Another side note: Been relatively trouble free last 5k miles, I did have to change my throttle body, which I believe is unrelated to the other things I did.

jaeezzy · 04-23-2022, 11:52 PM

Hi guys.. if anyone is still listening on this channel

.. came across this thread trying to find solution for 4862 error code that I'm getting on my e84 X1 s18d with N47 engine (2014 model). This has been traumatising me for the last month or so. Sorry this is X5 thread but I hope the problem source & the resolution will be similar if not the same. I'm pretty noob when it comes to DIY but I have replaced my original EGR valve & cooler (valve was leaking coolant), tighten the seal on the boost pipe to ensure no leaks, confirmed no leaks on both boost & charged pipes, cleaned MAF sensor & tested electric valve's both nipples to confirm both hold vacuum fine but still keep getting that 4862 error code. However, I haven't checked the exhaust pressure sensor line for any clogging there so wanted to confirm I check the correct one before I do it. Please find the DPF photo attached (Number 5 & 7 both are labelled exhaust pressure sensors in realoem. I'm guessing it's 7).
Also, before I start taking off the exhaust sensor, my filter pipe going in to the turbo has a crack on the flexible part (right where I've pointed with red line in the filtered pipe pic) and seems it has tiny leak happening from there. Would this cause this error code? Is there a good way to seal it? I'm planning to use Permatex black adhesive sealant to try and seal it as it looks quite small crack. Any advise on this? Also, I found some oil built up at the point where the filter pipe connects to the turbo but doesn't seem related to 4862 error code to include here

Appreciate if anyone can advise me on this. Thanks in advance

07-16-2017, 03:24 PM	#1
AlpineX Captain 249 Rep 776 Posts Drives: Diesel Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: US iTrader: (0)	4862 and 4990 on 2010 X5 Finally got an M57 for the Fam last week, 2010 X5 with 100k Coolant temp was hanging around low 60s, horrible fuel econ, a couple pending codes but no CEL and passed emissions as-is (as-was). I put in a thermostat yesterday, desperately trying to get the car to regen. After the thermostat (main only), I went on a 30 min highway drive. Temps were good ranging from 85 to 88. There was an ordered Regen that looks like it started to take place, egt up to 1050f, then dropped (cancelled?). I pulled over, cleared all the pending codes from earlier and started again. It looks like the car tried to regen again, getting to about 900* before dropping back to normal. I still read 22+bar (I think?) pre cat pressure. I have two soft codes that keep returning after driving short distances (on 3 consecutive trips): 4862 Air System, Air to EGR Mass Flow Plausibility and 4990 Exhaust Gas Pressure Sensor Before Turbocharger Plausibility The Thermo job went alright, one of the coolant connections got caught behind the EGR after install, so I had to squeeze it past the plastic arm on the EGR vacuum valve underneath the cooler. Hoping that didnt damage the arm assembly. Thinking that was a culprit, I tested it with vacuum. First attempt held no vacuum, so I cut 1/4" off each end of the lower hose for a better seal. Now it will actuate the valve at 15 in hg, and the valve returns when released. When I try to actuate it from the T-junction further up, it appears I have a small leak, not sure how to test the electric valve, going to replace both lines with new today and retest. I saw lpcapitals thread where he had to trick the DDE into thinking the pressure was closer than it was, but I don't think mine is as severe since I didnt get any lights for DPF and dont have any glow issues. (plus it seems like the car made a legitimate effort to regen after the thermo). Any insight to what my hurdle is? How I can make this regenerate? My scanner can read most pids but does not have functionality to test SCR functions. Thanks
	Appreciate 0 Tweet Quote

07-16-2017, 05:43 PM	#2
robnitro Captain 166 Rep 805 Posts Drives: x5 35d e70 2011 Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: NYC area iTrader: (0)	Egr airflow plausibility is from either bad maf or what i think in your case, an egr leak or clogged egr valve. The exhaust gas plausibility might need that mod to fool the computer. 22 bar? That's like 300 psi! Mbar well that's fine and 0.3psi
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-25-2017, 07:17 PM	#5
AlpineX Captain 249 Rep 776 Posts Drives: Diesel Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: US iTrader: (0)	Carly showed up in the mail yesterday. I was able to force a regen and watched my soot mass burn up from 30 to 0, but it was not logged as a successful regen (which remains constant at 422). I Still have my two codes, I presume one or both are preventing automatic regenerations. I reinspected both charge pipes for installation errors, and got a scope around the entire EGR cooler to check for exhaust soot, none. Wondering if I damaged the flap actuator on the cooler or the electrovacuum valve? Maybe time again to look at the EGR valve, I think I verified that it is an updated version but I don't recall how or where I saw that. Didn't seem too gunked up when I was in there. Other interesting thing, Carly says that the last successful regen was at 95k, almost 2500 miles ago (split between previous owner and I). I suppose they traded it in when they saw performance or economy plummet.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-25-2017, 11:20 PM	#6
Yozh Colonel 881 Rep 2,611 Posts Drives: 2011 335d M-Sport Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Wet Coast iTrader: (4)	In my experience Carly mileage at last regen is not an exact value. For me it was always lagging by 2500km. To test the electric switchover valve on your EGR cooler (high pressure) you can test electrical integrity by testing the resistance between the leads. Should be 14kOhm(hope I remember that value correctly) or you can apply vacuum to input nipple and it should hold vacuum to 29inHg when deenergized. Once you determine the valve is good. Then test the vacuum actuator with a hand pump.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-09-2017, 01:55 PM	#8
robnitro Captain 166 Rep 805 Posts Drives: x5 35d e70 2011 Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: NYC area iTrader: (0)	The mpg gauge is doing a calculation of fuel flow vs speed. If your dpf, etc was severely restrictive, you would be using more fuel for the same power due to back pressure. It goes to max at idle on most bmw's that I've seen. It's not realistic. But yeah according to the calculation, at idle, the reading should be zero miles per gallon at idle because none of the fuel is being used to move you. Maybe they did it because it would make the needle swing wildly from high mpg to 0 at you coast to a stop?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-10-2017, 03:15 AM	#9
AlpineX Captain 249 Rep 776 Posts Drives: Diesel Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: US iTrader: (0)	Switchover valve @ hpegr is 34 ohms across the contacts Looks like the clogged line was the source of both codes. Neither have returned after multiple trips and over 100 miles. I have an unnatural hesitation (>1sec) under hard acceleration from cruise and slow/stop. Seems like a vacuum leak with turbo actuation being affected. Guess vacuum system moves higher on the list, all lines are a little brittle feeling, and failures definitely imminent.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

12-17-2017, 05:13 PM	#10
sgrice Registered 3 Rep 4 Posts Drives: 2018 X3 M40i 2010 X5 diesel Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Atlanta, Georgia iTrader: (0)	Just want to give a big thanks to AlpineX. I've been chasing the 4862 and 4990 codes for the past several months. I would clear them with Carly, but then (just like AlpineX) they would return within 15-20 miles of driving. Replaced the air temperature sensor and exhaust pressure sensor without success. I believe I had seen this post in the past, but somehow it didn't register to me that the cause of the codes was solved! Anyway, just as for AlpineX, the line going from the exhaust manifold to the exhaust pressure sensor was clogged just distal to the rubber hose. Seemed like it was filled with concrete! Soaked in acetone, brake cleaner, followed with coat hanger sections hooked up to a drill - finally achieved success. And (drum roll, please) . . . No More Codes! Woot, woot! If anybody else deals with this be aware that the banjo bolt torque to the exhaust manifold is 35 Nm. I remember in a post some years ago someone over-tightened it and stripped it. Apparently a real pain in the neck to fix - I believe it required removing the turbos to get the exhaust manifold replaced. Anyway, thanks again to AlpineX! Feels good to have this fixed. Last edited by sgrice; 12-17-2017 at 08:10 PM..
	Appreciate 1 Reece0500.00 Quote

12-18-2017, 11:20 AM	#11
AlpineX Captain 249 Rep 776 Posts Drives: Diesel Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: US iTrader: (0)	Glad it helped. Thanks for the Thermostat pics in your thread as I referenced yours before I did mine . As a follow up: -Ultimately, later I also swapped the actual pressure sensor (because I had it as a non-returnable special order). -The hose is actually not very expensive. I would have preferred a new hose over cleaning the old for the price, but this is an item that was not available on the day I found the clog. -There is a function in Ista+ to notify the DDE that you changed the pressure sensor -I got an additional mileage and power boost with the hose functioning (assume running on actual maps instead of calculated maps) -Heat up the banjo bolt before removing. I started with the engine warm, cracked the bolt then let things cool down a bit. -Makes me wonder what the inside of the leading differential sensor hose looks like, I imagine there is at least some restriction. No update on my lag that I still think is vacuum. I have all the parts except hose. Hope to dig into to my box of parts soon. Another side note: Been relatively trouble free last 5k miles, I did have to change my throttle body, which I believe is unrelated to the other things I did.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

04-23-2022, 11:52 PM	#12
jaeezzy Enthusiast 34 Rep 306 Posts Drives: BMW X1 sDrive18d M Sport Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Australia iTrader: (0)	Hi guys.. if anyone is still listening on this channel .. came across this thread trying to find solution for 4862 error code that I'm getting on my e84 X1 s18d with N47 engine (2014 model). This has been traumatising me for the last month or so. Sorry this is X5 thread but I hope the problem source & the resolution will be similar if not the same. I'm pretty noob when it comes to DIY but I have replaced my original EGR valve & cooler (valve was leaking coolant), tighten the seal on the boost pipe to ensure no leaks, confirmed no leaks on both boost & charged pipes, cleaned MAF sensor & tested electric valve's both nipples to confirm both hold vacuum fine but still keep getting that 4862 error code. However, I haven't checked the exhaust pressure sensor line for any clogging there so wanted to confirm I check the correct one before I do it. Please find the DPF photo attached (Number 5 & 7 both are labelled exhaust pressure sensors in realoem. I'm guessing it's 7). Also, before I start taking off the exhaust sensor, my filter pipe going in to the turbo has a crack on the flexible part (right where I've pointed with red line in the filtered pipe pic) and seems it has tiny leak happening from there. Would this cause this error code? Is there a good way to seal it? I'm planning to use Permatex black adhesive sealant to try and seal it as it looks quite small crack. Any advise on this? Also, I found some oil built up at the point where the filter pipe connects to the turbo but doesn't seem related to 4862 error code to include here Appreciate if anyone can advise me on this. Thanks in advance Attached Images __________________ ... jaeezzy...
	Appreciate 0 Quote