[oheggem]

Hi good people.

So when i bought this car a few years back it didn't take long until my first engine check light came on. A long struggle changing coils, plugs and low pressure sensor fixed it everntually but milage was bad and performance also bad.

Since about 3 weeks now it has deteriorated A LOT. Now it starts fine, idles fine on cold start, although sometimes out of the blue it takes turning a few seconds, but has virtually no power. I step on it and nothing happens. Sometimes it jumps a little like it almost fires but goes back to shit again.

Using A LOT of fuel now and smells fuel from the rear.

It has been throwing P0420 for a few months and that is catalytic converter. Mechanic plueed into the obd and said what i knew without trying to drive it. He said to try a regeneration on it but i can't get up to that speed and over 3k rpm it starts to rattle chain sound on and off. Not liking that!

Now it barely runs, stumbles and misfires, burn oil and yellow check light shows 2 codes in OBDII but they say N/A? Is that because it's a very simple OBDII thing?

I thought about buying a new NOX. Any other suggestions?

hoping someone is bored on a friday night TIA!

OHeggem

[SvenHz]

Hi there, sorry to hear these troubles. I would recommend to get a working INPA setup as a bare minimum to diagnose the N43. Bimmerprofs.com offers a wealth of info including an online diagnostic (I am not affiliated). Why would you consider getting a new NOx sensor? It is true that a working NOx system is essential to the smooth and fuel efficient running of the N43/N53. But I would personally recommend NOXEM instead. I have helped a number of N43 and N53 owners with the necessary injector adaptations after installing NOXEM and they all report back smooth and fuel efficient operation.

Another point could be crankcase ventilation which will cause issues with mixture without throwing error codes per se. Ventilation can be checked with a special oil filler cap that allows measuring barometric pressure inside the engine while it is running.

[oheggem]

Thanks for responding! I ordered a cable and software from bcables. Hoping this will show me what's up. Also ordered all the filters, oil and NGK coils and plugs.

The nox sensor will overfuel i think it it is bad. I'll read up on the NOXEM as i've seen it mentioned other places.

Could chain stretching cause this? Getting worried.

[SvenHz]

I am not sure what the symptoms are of a stretched chain are but it could be. With INPA you can look at VANOS values. If they are out of range (engine trying to correct wrong timing due to chain stretch or possibly a skipped tooth) then that could be a cause. ISTA-D has a chain elongation diagnostic check which could work too (look for “sedoy” distribution of ISTA online). There is also a mechanical way to measure chain elongation which I use myself. Search for tool “XXL-115160” from XXL Automotive from Germany. A mechanic or you can use it in place of the chain tensioner to see how far the chain can be pressed in. It is half an hour job if you are as slow as me.

[oheggem]

Sooo,

I bought the cable from bcables, installed ISTA+, got it connected using D-CAN and got a read first time. I got a few yellow ones that i didn't check up on and i got two red on the control unit tree. One red was the DME. Cant remember the second.

Anyway, so i tried to change the connector to K-CAN to see if it read it that way since i wasnt sure what to use. Car is late 07 i found out. But that left all read so i thought i change to D-CAN again but since then NOTHING connects through the obd port. Tried my simple OBDII reader but got linking error for the first time ever!!!

Anyone know what happened? I checked fuse 74 but ok. Now i can't connect anything. Car starts the same and runs the same and smells gas etc. nothing changed exept now i cannot get a read from the OBD2 port.

Again, any suggestions?

[oheggem]

Got a print of my errors. Top 4 are concerning

Anyone seen this a long with the symptoms?

[SvenHz]

For the cable: there is a chip in it and perhaps it needs a reset. There is a DOS based utility out there that I never got to work and I can’t remember the name of.

For error code checking, INPA is the fastest. Get MSD80 loader 2.023 working, see Bimmerprofs.

30E9 is a key code as it means a permanent fault in your NOx system and I would recommend sorting that out first as it is prohibiting stratified fuel injection from working properly which would be a major cause for the issues you are experiencing. NOXEM is a cost effective solution. After replacing your NOx sensor (in the exhaust) with NOXEM, you need a working ISTA setup for coding it, and INPA for re-adapting the injector calibrations. See bimmerprofs.com

2D06 and 2D29 may be a result of a non-working NOx system. 2EF7 could mean you need a new thermostat, which is not expensive. Again this could prohibit the engine from going into stratified fuel mode so you may have to fix that together with NOXEM.

The other errors are electrical of nature. How old is your battery? But first focus on NOx + possibly thermostat.

[SvenHz]

Sorry I misread your message. Not sure what could have happened to your OBD port. I would find it hard to believe that the switch on that cable broke it (I have done so in the past). Perhaps you did not wait until the DME was completely off (no light behind start/stop button) before trying it again? Disconnect all cables, turn off car, wait a few minutes (or a day...) and try again.

[oheggem]

Hi Sven and thx for getting back to me .

I went out with my simple obd2 reader now and it works again. Maby just low voltage.

Since this problem started with yellow small engine light a few years ago throwing coil errors, then running richer and richer would maby suggest the cat never got a regenerate and is clogged. If i get the NOXEM, will it unclog it and run smooth?
If it is an injector leaking could that have been the problem?

Will order thermostat asap! I like this car so really hope is get it fixed. Bought a 2008 Lancer while i figure it out

[SvenHz]

Well, my hypothesis would be that your NOx system has been dead (either with error 30EA or 30E9) for 3 years now, forcing DME to stop using stratified mode. This in turn has removed the ability for DME to calibrate the injectors (this is a weak spot of the N43/N53 engines; Volkswagen engines run just fine with stratified mode turned off). This over time causes issues with the fuel mixture.

Our engines have two cats: a normal CO cat and an NOx cat. The CO cat is essential and can break over time if you run too rich. This may be an issue but will present itself with a separate error code (there are lambda probes before and after the cat).

The NOx cat is the one that needs regeneration (desulphation) which is difficult to achieve in my country (long stretches 120+). NOXEM eliminates the dependency on the NOx cat. Read bimmerprofs :-)

Yes perhaps you have 1 or more leaking injectors. But step 1 is to restore stratified charge and let the DME learn about your injectors through readaptation and subsequent even/quiet driving for few hundred kilometers.

You can learn more about your engine on bimmerprofs (including the page on Thermal Management for more info on your thermostat) and of course Jani Voutilainen 's channel on YouTube.

[oheggem]

I ordered the noxem so i'll start there. Installation is not a worry but the adaptation and stuff worries me. ANyway, thanks a bunch and i'll check in later on so this can be used for future reference

[SvenHz]

Exciting and it will surely do your N43 good.
I have helped a few people with N43/N53 re-adaptation drives and here are my thoughts.

• If you have had years of faults, you will have to plan for 2-3 hours for the initial adaptations to succeed.
• It is possible that during the re-adaptation drive you will encounter 1 or more leaking injectors. If they are too far gone, the adaptations cannot complete and you will have to redo them after injector(s) replacement and coding.
• You may want to inspect and if necessary replace your spark plugs (NGK!) before you do this, as they may be dirty as a result of running too rich.
• Readaptation is complete when the correct 6 out of 8 learnbits (Lernbits) are black. Sometimes this takes a while (days + 100s km), for instance a couple of cold starts with few minutes idle can be necessary after your initial readaptation driving session.

Watch this for inspiration. Please note that Jani is not using NOXEM so he needs to ensure low enough sulphur levels on the NOx cat; with NOXEM that is not a concern.

My personal technique is the following.

• Directly after resetting adaptations your engine will not run very smoothly as the lambda probes will remain unheated (engine operating in open loop mode). I do the reset with a warm engine quite close to the place where I can do the flywheel adaptation: drive to 105 kmh and coast in 4th gear.
• Then park the car, shut everything down, wait till DME sleeps (no light in start-stop button). This is important and can take a few minutes.
• Start, idle for 5 mins. Check if your lambda probes are being heated. If not: off, wait longer.
• 5-10 minute quiet drive on cruise control, I do highway at 80 kmh. The engine should already be attempting stratified mode (lambda value >2, fuel consumption ~4l/100km).
• Park somewhere, keep engine running for 5 minutes, hopefully it is now idling in stratified mode.
• See how your Lernbits are doing, switch off, wait.
• Start, 5 minutes idle (homogenous), go for a quiet drive (stratified), park and idle again (stratified).
• Next day: cold start, 5 minutes idle (homogenous).

In between steps check for error messages. A permanent fault with the thermostat can also prevent DME from going into stratified mode so you may have to trial and error this process a bit.

Looking forward to seeing your experience here.

[0l0dom0l0]

Good advice above. I did the same for my N53. I got a misfire error (normal) but cleared it and it went away. You do have to keep an eye out and clear the faults.

[oheggem]

A bit late but got the Noxem installed and did the adaptation delete etc etc. Worked and didn't have any issues. But, no change and no way in hell am i gonna make the speeds to make new adaptations. Barely get it moving at all.

Got a new list of error codes in image below. Can the cat be so clogged that it actually restrict the engine to even run? I can barely take off with lots of clutching and rpms and most of the time it chokes instead of getting speed. On idle i hear a ticking on left side of engine in those pipes going there and it ratles if i go high rpm. Backpressure? Got some blue smoke at one point.

Replaced the low fuel pressure sensor and all new coils and plugs.

View post on imgur.com

[Andystobbs]

The cat on our 1 series N43 recently fell apart and performance suffered. It went from a tiny hesitation that I could feel when cruising, to popping and very little power in under 10 miles distance. I found the broken up contents of the manifold catalyst sitting in front of the NOx catalysts and blocking gases.

Removed the debris and cleaned the NOx catalyst but full performance never returned. Spark plugs were sooty, and piston crowns wet (oily), renewed plugs, pressure tested injectors, oscilloscope tested coils, opened PCV valve in rocker cover, replaced rocker cover.
Hesitation/stumble when driving is very apparent and blue smoke (piston rings replaced 11 months ago, valve stem seals replaced 24 months ago) and generally under powered. Fuel trim is at - 8%. Both lambda sensors are less than 2 years old, vanos adaptions at 3 and 6 degree's.

Given up trying to fix it and going to scrap it. N43 has put me off petrol engine BMW forever (going newer anyway, some of the old ones are ok).

[oheggem]

This is what i am in the midst of now. Holy hell how much trouble can you get into with an engine.... oof. This really just makes me want to scrap the whole thing...

[Andystobbs]

My experience of N43 is skewed by old engines and as a mechanic I only ever see the broken ones but that 1 series has been THE worst car I've ever owned.

All the work in the above post was carried out in addition to more historic timing chain replacement, oil pump replacement and crankshaft regrind - to fix 3C01 issue. Injectors replaced to index 11. It has constantly been one thing after another with too little time in between.

Everything but the engine has been ok though. 😂

People bemeoan the timing chain issues of the N47. They don't know they're born.

[oheggem]

I do love driving this car so i hurts if i have to scrap it. It's the best driver car i've had, the short time it worked of course.

I'll try to sourche some cheap injectors and see how that turns out. I do get exhaust out the pipe so it can't be totally clogged.

Before i bought this i called a dealer looking for info on this and they said it was a rock solid machine. Figured since i wasn't buying from them they would talk. Man, if i only had a ticking lump of c4......

[0l0dom0l0]

Originally Posted by Andystobbs

My experience of N43 is skewed by old engines and as a mechanic I only ever see the broken ones but that 1 series has been THE worst car I've ever owned.

All the work in the above post was carried out in addition to more historic timing chain replacement, oil pump replacement and crankshaft regrind - to fix 3C01 issue. Injectors replaced to index 11. It has constantly been one thing after another with too little time in between.

Everything but the engine has been ok though. 😂

People bemeoan the timing chain issues of the N47. They don't know they're born.

Those injectors are worth a fair bit now. You should pull them before you scrap it.

[Andystobbs]

I haven't yet decided whether to sell spares/repair, or break it. Scrap wasn't really the best phrase for me to use. But suited my feelings with it.

Its a well specced car for an E87. Leather interior, pro nav CIC, dual zone climate control, extended lights. F&R PDC.
Damn shame.

[oheggem]

I feel the same Andy. It's lovely to drive and i love the cars look etc. It just horrifies me that they built a car this hard to diagnose.