[bluewater328]

Looking to get this conversion taken care of but had a few questions to confirm as I want to understand the references.

What I got:
Got a donor wheel from a 335 LCI with LCI paddles.
My car: 2011 E90 328i LCI auto

I have Burgermotorsports pnp cable found here: http://www.burgertuning.com/bmw_padd...t_harness.html
Have part 61319123287 which is the part BMS recommends if not LCI (in case needed)

I've seen the wire mod version, but rather just plug and play and frankly (with BMS cable), most of these DIYs were for pre-LCI vehicles.


Per BMS, LCI vehicles may not need part 61319123287 if I pull some resistors and short/bridge one set of contacts. (LCI paddle mod instructions: http://www.burgertuning.com/instruct...dification.pdf). However this is where the language gets tricky referring to when non-LCI wheels upgrade to LCI paddles. But my case is I have an LCI and I want to throw on an LCI wheel (complete wheel with controls, paddles and airbag together from one pull).

PRIMARY QUESTION:
So do I still need to do the short? Or, since I have it, is it better to replace the controls with part 61319123287 and then it's plug and play?


SECONDARY QUESTION:
If I do need to pull the resistors and bridge a set, how do I go about doing this and with what tools? I'm a slight novice with soldering and didn't know if you just get your best needle nose to pull this resistors.


Any help appreciated.

[DoJu3]

You got everything you need, just plug and play.

The short I believe is needed because pre-lci models had the push/pull silver paddles, LCI cars don't shift like that, is pull right to upshift, pull left to downshift, some rewiring is needed for PRE-LCI to work like LCI paddles.

The instructions on the site can look confusing because mos people go from PRE-LCI to LCI and they work different. In your case your cars is already LCI so no modification are needed.

The steering wheel controls need to have 6 wires, some controls only come with 4, that's why they say you "may" not need part 6131912328, in this case you don't need it because you already have the steering wheel controls with the 6 wires.

So just pop off the shifter cover, plug it then run the connector and plug it to the back of the steering wheel, plug the steering controls into the paddles, reassemble your steering wheel and airbag and you're done.

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by DoJu3

You got everything you need, just plug and play.

The short I believe is needed because pre-lci models had the push/pull silver paddles, LCI cars don't shift like that, is pull right to upshift, pull left to downshift, some rewiring is needed for PRE-LCI to work like LCI paddles.

The instructions on the site can look confusing because mos people go from PRE-LCI to LCI and they work different. In your case your cars is already LCI so no modification are needed.

The steering wheel controls need to have 6 wires, some controls only come with 4, that's why they say you "may" not need part 6131912328, in this case you don't need it because you already have the steering wheel controls with the 6 wires.

So just pop off the shifter cover, plug it then run the connector and plug it to the back of the steering wheel, plug the steering controls into the paddles, reassemble your steering wheel and airbag and you're done.

Thanks for your response. I hope you're right. Hopefully I'll have some switches for sale soon.

[bluewater328]

@DoJu3

Hmm, no dice. Used the burger shifter adapter with the LCI wheel and the built in multifunction controls - no paddles, everything else works.

Took it back apart, used the specifically prescribed MC installed instead - no paddles, everything else works.

I suppose the last thing to do is keep the prescribed MC part in there and modify the LCI paddles By pulling the resistors and bridging the last. I just hate the idea because soldering really isnt something I've invested time into.

[bluewater328]

Well, and update: Got the paddles to start functioning after doing the resistor mod. Only problem now is that the - paddle will downshift to M1 only no matter what gear its in.

All other buttons and functions seem to work fine, just the downshift paddle is having issues.

I was reading a few threads and contrary to the tutorial here: http://www.burgertuning.com/instruct...dification.pdf
someone said that putting the left (-) paddle pins in position 1 & 2 instead of 2 & 3 like the + paddle, that would work — didnt work for me but I'm open to theories and advice.

[bluewater328]

So a further update: Seems like everything was fine with pin 1 moved to pin 2 on both control sides. Maybe its because I wasn't really moving (just back and forth in the garage/driveway) that the - paddle would only downshift to M1.

Tried it at low speeds and from each gear, the - paddle shifted down one gear as it should. + paddle has been, and is still working fine after resistor mod. Will report back if things change.

As a hint for those doing the resistor mod, if you're a novice at soldering like me, since this isn't the old-school resistor that solders underneath here's some advice:
To remove, take the soldering iron and heat up one side, then from the other side heat up slightly then use the tip of the soldering iron to flick the resistor up. It'll take a few times. When the resistor connection is heated up enough, it will pop up and probably still be sticking to the other side. Easier than trying to use any type of pliers/etc to lift while you desolder.

[LangenR]

Hi there, i'm having the same issue you've been having:

LCI paddles on a LCI E91, using the BMS harness, with the paddles not working.

Everything else working just fine.
Don't have part 6131912328, but the MC has got 6 wires attached, so this should do fine?

See you did the resistor mod, did you remove all four resistors and placed two bridges?

Many thanks in advance!

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by LangenR

Hi there, i'm having the same issue you've been having:

LCI paddles on a LCI E91, using the BMS harness, with the paddles not working.

Everything else working just fine.
Don't have part 6131912328, but the MC has got 6 wires attached, so this should do fine?

See you did the resistor mod, did you remove all four resistors and placed two bridges?

Many thanks in advance!

Yes, you MUST do the resistor mod if you are using LCI paddles. It's as pictured on the BMS site and on the DIY here.

If the paddles and the module came together (rather than pieces together separately) then you have the right 6-pin and you're gtg.

[LangenR]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

Yes, you MUST do the resistor mod if you are using LCI paddles. It's as pictured on the BMS site and on the DIY here.

If the paddles and the module came together (rather than pieces together separately) then you have the right 6-pin and you're gtg.

Thanks for the info!

[LangenR]

Worked like a charm, thanks again!

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by LangenR

Worked like a charm, thanks again!

Awesome. Glad you got it sorted.

[conolulu]

Hey man, currently doing this mod. I have a pre-lci e90 and I just bought a lci sport steering wheel that should be coming soon. Do you know if any errors pop up if I don't connect the paddle shifters but just install the steering wheel? I want to eventually do the paddle shifter retrofit but the bms harness has been on back on order.

Thank you for any help.

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by conolulu

Hey man, currently doing this mod. I have a pre-lci e90 and I just bought a lci sport steering wheel that should be coming soon. Do you know if any errors pop up if I don't connect the paddle shifters but just install the steering wheel? I want to eventually do the paddle shifter retrofit but the bms harness has been on back on order.

Thank you for any help.

If you don't have the wiring in place you're not interrupting the circuit to give it information . Lots of us screwed up in between and found the worst result is no paddles anyway. You could run the tap and wire manually, but that's a choice. I think you're probably fine...just understand you're doing double work since you have to pull the wheel off again to connect the harness.

[MTTH]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

Yes, you MUST do the resistor mod if you are using LCI paddles. It's as pictured on the BMS site and on the DIY here.

If the paddles and the module came together (rather than pieces together separately) then you have the right 6-pin and you're gtg.

Hey what do you mean when you say if the paddles and modules came together? I looking to do this Mod as I have everything including the special MF buttons. The sport wheel I got came off a 2011 E92, not sure where the paddles came from but they're LCI. My car is a 2011 E90.

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by TreyTwoEight

Hey what do you mean when you say if the paddles and modules came together? I looking to do this Mod as I have everything including the special MF buttons. The sport wheel I got came off a 2011 E92, not sure where the paddles came from but they're LCI. My car is a 2011 E90.

If the paddles and buttons came from the same wheel, then they're obviously matched. You need the right button set to work with the BMS cable (if you're going that direction). The LCI triggers (if using BMS) will need to be soldered regardless of whether paddles came together with buttons (there are instructions on their site).

[Wanas]

Hi guys, I just do this modification on my non-paddle 2010 e91 lci 330d. Today I will remove the resistors from lci paddles I bought.. I only have one question. Can you shift with paddles on D or only on DS? Will I be able to?
Thank You

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by Wanas

Hi guys, I just do this modification on my non-paddle 2010 e91 lci 330d. Today I will remove the resistors from lci paddles I bought.. I only have one question. Can you shift with paddles on D or only on DS? Will I be able to?
Thank You

There's a few comments in this and other threads. You can shift in D, but the car will take over on the next safe shift point (usually a conservative RPM 2-3k) if you aren't actively shifting (and even then). At that point you're driving like a regular auto at that point.

In DS mode, you control up or down but the car will protect itself. It will shift up when you hit the redline (or technically 6800 for most). It will also downshift as you slow down, esp while coming to a stop, it will take you down to 2nd.

You can only get into D1 when you're full stopped. That said, I see no need.

[Wanas]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

There's a few comments in this and other threads. You can shift in D, but the car will take over on the next safe shift point (usually a conservative RPM 2-3k) if you aren't actively shifting (and even then). At that point you're driving like a regular auto at that point.

In DS mode, you control up or down but the car will protect itself. It will shift up when you hit the redline (or technically 6800 for most). It will also downshift as you slow down, esp while coming to a stop, it will take you down to 2nd.

You can only get into D1 when you're full stopped. That said, I see no need.

Ok thank you. I know it work like this when you have original paddles from the factory. But I heard about few people who made them additionally and they were able to use them only on DS. On D they did not work at all.

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by Wanas

Ok thank you. I know it work like this when you have original paddles from the factory. But I heard about few people who made them additionally and they were able to use them only on DS. On D they did not work at all.

Effectively they do not work. In D if you drive for a few seconds when your car is ready to shift it will take back over and not hold the gear. It's only good for a quick downshift but it will shift up quicker than you'd like. (And you'll only see the D from that point).

[teohguangli]

Hello guys, I'm still confused. What do you mean by MC?

My car is a 2011 E90 320d LCI with original M sport steering wheel without paddle shifters. I've just purchased a M sport steering wheel with LCI paddles (whole piece without airbag).

So my question is I only have to do the resistor mods for the LCI paddles and I'm good to go right? Do I have to get the BMS harness/cable?

Please kindly enlighten me, thank you very much. Truly appreciate it. 🙏🏻

[Azzai80]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

So a further update: Seems like everything was fine with pin 1 moved to pin 2 on both control sides. Maybe its because I wasn't really moving (just back and forth in the garage/driveway) that the - paddle would only downshift to M1.

Tried it at low speeds and from each gear, the - paddle shifted down one gear as it should. + paddle has been, and is still working fine after resistor mod. Will report back if things change.

As a hint for those doing the resistor mod, if you're a novice at soldering like me, since this isn't the old-school resistor that solders underneath here's some advice:
To remove, take the soldering iron and heat up one side, then from the other side heat up slightly then use the tip of the soldering iron to flick the resistor up. It'll take a few times. When the resistor connection is heated up enough, it will pop up and probably still be sticking to the other side. Easier than trying to use any type of pliers/etc to lift while you desolder.

I have been looking for a post like yours... I have a 2012 e93 335i LCI with no paddles. I just got a M-Sport 2011 335i LCI shifter steering wheel with the 6 pin. I have burgertuning like harness. You have convinced me I need to do the transistor mod before even putting wheel in for the 1st time.