[Three_thirty_I]

So after my car's Valvetronic motor threw an error code I had ordered a new part and had the garage fit it since they were going to calibrate it with their coding tool, but it seems they did not do this properly.

The error code was as follows:
DME - 2A38 DME: Valvetronic, monitoring, sluggish movement - Position regulator monitoring - Fault currently present - Valvetronic actuator motor B1214_NG6VMO - Learning Valvetronic limit positions B1214_NG6VVAL

When I fetched the car on Friday afternoon I was hoping for a much better overall feel of the throttle in terms of response and smoothness, but it was anything but smooth and responsive! First thing I noticed while driving in peak traffic was that throttle seemed to need a fair amount of pedal movement to get the revs up and when setting off the car would jerk quite noticeably no matter what you do, and same when acceleration after being off throttle - was as if you were a learner driver! The other noticeable issue was when taking your foot off the throttle, the revs didn't return to idle speed nearly as quickly as before when revving, and when driving it was cause a nasty amount of jerking when reducing throttle! Not nice at all to drive when it's like this! Thinking that the adaptations still needed to settle and that maybe I just had to get used to it I continued home.

Then I found some quite roads that I could put the car through its paces and the while the nasty jerking continued when setting off or accelerating in gear I decided to give the car a few WOT runs through the gears and this is when I noticed that it seemed to run out of steam or soft limit from 6000 rpm onwards. Again, thinking that the adaptations had to possibly relearn I continued to drive normally for a bit and tried again, same thing! Very disappointed I finally went home.

Later that night, and after reading up about the simple DIY to replace the Valvetronic motor and particular with regards to the basic and initial calibration of the new motor which involves inserting the key fob and then turning the ignition on for a few minutes at which point the Valvetronic motor runs through its min and max positions (ignition off for 10 seconds and then repeat the process for good measure a few times), I decided to give this a go.

And as sure as nuts, I heard a whirring sound as the new Valvetronic motor ran through its min and max positions! Left it for a few minutes and then turned the ignition off and repeated a few times but did not hear the Valvetronic motor again. So clearly it had self calibrated. I took the car for a drive and all was fine - throttle feel was as expected with no unnecessary jerkiness and response was also better, then once the car was properly warmed up I gave it some WOT runs and this time it ran cleanly up to 7000 rpm every time! So I am really not sure what this specialist garage did and will take this up with him on Tuesday! I gather that while the self calibration is fine, the proper calibration via the BMW tool (coding) is still required?

As it stands, I could have just installed this myself!

[Three_thirty_I]

Was really hoping there would be some input or advice. Seems to still be running properly but still have to take this up with the tech...

[nate5ks]

I've never heard of this procedure, after removing my valvetronic motor to replace the leaky gasket I calibrated it using DIS and it did exactly what you described. I could hear the motor whirring and finding the stops and all was good. I assume since your car is driving fine you don't need to do any more.

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by nate5ks

I've never heard of this procedure, after removing my valvetronic motor to replace the leaky gasket I calibrated it using DIS and it did exactly what you described. I could hear the motor whirring and finding the stops and all was good. I assume since your car is driving fine you don't need to do any more.

Well, this is what I went according to and as per what is said at the end, felt that it was better to let the tech install since I cannot get my silly notebook to just work as it should with INPA and my cable etc.

[nate5ks]

Looks legit to me, I wouldn't worry about it.

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by nate5ks

Looks legit to me, I wouldn't worry about it.

Thanks, this is my feeling too. And so far the car engine seems to be running fine, but I did speak to the tech and he has agreed that I can bring the car around sometime so that he can just make sure everything is spot on, which I think is the least he can do since this was part of what he was suppose to do in the first place.

[GMWNashville]

I didn't read your whole post so forgive me if this doesn't apply...but there's a bulletin for programming for your fault and also look for oil in the eccentric shaft position sensor..I've replaced VERY few valvetronic motors..

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by volkswackin

I didn't read your whole post so forgive me if this doesn't apply...but there's a bulletin for programming for your fault and also look for oil in the eccentric shaft position sensor..I've replaced VERY few valvetronic motors..

Are you saying that the fault as in the sluggish movement as per the error code above could be programmed out? This was to a degree what the first specialist said last year when he reported a 10% out of spec issue, but no fault as such. I asked him if it needed to be replaced and he said no, can be corrected with software but nothing was done since he ended up just messing me around.

Will have to inspect the eccentric shaft sensor plug to make sure it is free of oil, no obvious oil leaks on or around the valve cover when the engine cover is off, but best to just check properly.

[GMWNashville]

Originally Posted by Three_thirty_I

Are you saying that the fault as in the sluggish movement as per the error code above could be programmed out? This was to a degree what the first specialist said last year when he reported a 10% out of spec issue, but no fault as such. I asked him if it needed to be replaced and he said no, can be corrected with software but nothing was done since he ended up just messing me around.

Will have to inspect the eccentric shaft sensor plug to make sure it is free of oil, no obvious oil leaks on or around the valve cover when the engine cover is off, but best to just check properly.

Yes sir if I remember correctly it is a programming error in the dme

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by volkswackin

Yes sir if I remember correctly it is a programming error in the dme

LOL, seems like I am just constantly throwing money at this car then! And especially since my main problem being the pinging/rattle noise persists!

[GMWNashville]

Originally Posted by Three_thirty_I

LOL, seems like I am just constantly throwing money at this car then! And especially since my main problem being the pinging/rattle noise persists!

Define this ping and rattle?

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by volkswackin

Define this ping and rattle?

Under part load in particular from 1500 rpm up it typically makes this rattling noise which BMW insist is pinging due to fuel issues which does not make sense since I know of other identical cars running the same fuel grade and not suffering from this in the least! I have replaced spark plugs (somewhere in the early 60k kms), replaced DISA flaps (another misdiagnosed affair), ran injector cleaner and octane booster, replaced temperature sensors suspecting they were misreading and showing a colder than normal operating temp but it seems the thermostat is the problem. Cleaned MAF and Vanos solenoids but didn't swap them around. The tech that had the car now picked up a smooth running issue which was found to be some dirt in the injector rail that was affecting the no.1 injector - cleaned and smooth running was within spec. The the engine apparently went into limp mode and the idle speed was fluctuating throwing the error above. He replaced the Valvetronic motor with a spare one and the engine ran fine with the error not returning.

The car currently has just over 72k km on the clock and this problem has persisted since early last year (2012). Frustrating as hell since I have done everything possible so far and nobody seems to be able to sort this out, just keep costing me more and more money! I replaced this part because it came up with what seemed to be a legitimate "fault" and since my throttle feel overall has been not the best for a fair while now, I felt it was worth a try.

The pinging (or whatever is causing the noise) is not really affected by engine temperature, so even just after starting the car and driving a few blocks away I can often hear this while under part throttle. Also disabled the exhaust flap a few months ago and this made no difference thinking that it might have been that, but in general the exhaust mechanism feels tight and firm, so doubt that it's rattling. Octane booster as mentioned above made absolutely no difference and I had a local well known tuner flash the ECU with an optimised software map that increased fuel mixture below 2500 rpm to curb the chance of an over-lean mixture causing detonation, but no improvement, or not much. Currently have a more well balanced performance/economy map so that now at least my fuel consumption is a bit better.

So really not sure what else to look at...

[Valadin]

Originally Posted by volkswackin

Yes sir if I remember correctly it is a programming error in the dme

I'm having this same issue. The dealer told me they need to re-program the DME (and I will have to replace the stock radio to do it). Does anyone know if the DME can be DIY and if it can be done without the stock radio in?

Or generally, does anyone have any experience with this issue being resolved by the DME programming?

[GMWNashville]

I've fixed a few with programming and there are ways around your radio none of which the dealer can/will do.

[Dracon]

Originally Posted by Valadin

I'm having this same issue. The dealer told me they need to re-program the DME (and I will have to replace the stock radio to do it). Does anyone know if the DME can be DIY and if it can be done without the stock radio in?

Or generally, does anyone have any experience with this issue being resolved by the DME programming?

You can reflash the DME using a D+CAN cable and WinKFP pretty easily.

As far as it being fixed with programming, if volkswackin' is pretty sure it's been resolved with a firmware update for the DME, that's most likely your fix. He knows these cars inside and out.

[dave9uk]

How do i calibrate z valvetronic motor once its fitted ?

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by dave9uk

How do i calibrate z valvetronic motor once its fitted ?

Without starting the engine, turn the ignition on, and you will actually hear the Valvetronic motor cycle the end stops. Otherwise you can use something like INPA or BMW tools, or a decent diagnostics scanner.

[dave9uk]

Ok i dont hear anything !
I have gotten inpa and on the control section for the vvt motor it says
no tester request available

[Suvorovo]

Originally Posted by Three_thirty_I

Without starting the engine, turn the ignition on, and you will actually hear the Valvetronic motor cycle the end stops. Otherwise you can use something like INPA or BMW tools, or a decent diagnostics scanner.

Can you post of a video of the noise?

I also believe your motor is calibrated correctly. The procedure in INPA is the same as leaving your key in ignition. I wonder if you damaged the eccentric shaft when running the motor uncalibrated, but you don't have any issues with it so probably not.

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by dave9uk

Ok i dont hear anything !
I have gotten inpa and on the control section for the vvt motor it says
no tester request available

My Inpa had the English menus, can't remember the heading or section exactly, but there was a menu where you could perform various functions/calibrations etc. With the engine off, it will then cycle the end stops and you will hear this happening - it's fairly quick and just once.

Originally Posted by Suvorovo

Can you post of a video of the noise?

I also believe your motor is calibrated correctly. The procedure in INPA is the same as leaving your key in ignition. I wonder if you damaged the eccentric shaft when running the motor uncalibrated, but you don't have any issues with it so probably not.

My diagnostics PC is down for the moment, otherwise I would make a vid quickly. Nope, it just sets the eccentric shaft to valves full lift and runs the engine with Valvetronic disabled and uses the throttle body, same as unplugging the eccentric shaft sensor. I think most of the time, damage to the eccentric shaft and specifically the spur and worm gears occurs during improper removal or re-installation of the Valvetronic motor. This was all done almost 9 years ago, so I reckon I am good.