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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Cannot not find suspension knock issue tried everything
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10-16-2022, 03:34 PM | #1 |
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Hi guys,
Really need some help this is doing my head in. E92 330i n53 67k with EPS 2008 RHD in the UK I get a clunk when cornering hard left when the suspension is compressed and hit a small bump. Also sometimes just turning left and hitting a small bump. The sounds is coming from the front right. Feels like something is bottoming out or something loose is knocking. At very low speeds I get a something's loose but also a low pitch muffled thudding rattle. I get this over small ridges and cracks at about 15mph. I have tried the following as part of my upgrades and refresh. New Tension strut arms and bolts (TRW M3) New control arms and bolts (TRW m3) New shocks koni special active New discs and pads New bump stops New top mounts Tighten steering column bolt on cv joint. retorqued all suspension bolts. New droplinks Tight front subframe bolts on right side. E92 m3 sway bar and new sway bar bushes. Chassis ears on all the suspension parts except steering rack. I have new tie rod ends but haven't fitted them I just got a great deal on them. Recently I've noticed that the steering may not be centering as well as it used to. I just had it aligned. But sometimes it doesn't immediately self centre. When centered the steering tracks straight. Starting to think it's the steering rack. How do I check play on the steering rack for faults? I'm going to retorque steering rack to subframe mounting bolts next. Anything else I can try. I'm contemplating taking to BMW to check. I do have warranty but they charge me a fortune for inspection. |
10-17-2022, 01:52 PM | #3 |
Driving cars and riding bikes really fast
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67k miles? I'm a 116k miles and can't imagine your steering rack being the issue here. I've adjusted and replaced a few of the parts you mentioned above. Did you replace the TIE RODS yet? In my opinion I'd replace the whole rod. That's a common failure part. When I replaced mine you could clearly see they were smoked. The steering improved after replacement.
Another idea; not sure how you're diagnosing the sound but maybe you can jack up the front wheels, and "drop" the front (without damaging plastics) and see if you can pinpoint the sound. It's hard to find clunks and noises when driving. Or you can bring a passenger, find a corner that makes this sound, and have them stand next to the road and listen for the clunk from OUTSIDE the car. We went through this exact process fixing my wife's Chevy Volt. Turned out to be a loose sway bar end link. I replaced the old struts for basically no reason
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335i, sport pkg, 3 pedals, Blacked out, LED markers, OZ Ultraleggera wheels, Firestone Indy 500s, x-pipe, vibrant 1792, PE mod
MHD stage 2+, BMS DPs, ARM charge pipe, Tial BOV, ARM FMIC, dual cone, CSF radiator, M3 control arms, sways, HAWK pads. https://www.strava.com/athletes/8309149 Follow me on Strava Last edited by Jaronbwall; 10-17-2022 at 02:06 PM.. |
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10-18-2022, 02:50 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
I did tighten up the subframe-tension strut mount bolt yesterday and so far so good. I think it's got the clunk sorted. I still have the rumbling noise though. Which may be steering rack. I will also try tightening the steering mount bolts as that seems to be a known issue for loosening and it's easy to retorque them. I've also seen that the rack has a tension adjustment that can come loose and is easy to tweak. However seeing as my steering wheel doesn't centre easily I may need to loosen it. I have tried dropping the car and bouncing while on full lock nothing happens. Like you said hard to replicate unless driving. I'm going to at least post what I have tried in case anyone else has the same problem as me. |
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Jaronbwall295.50 |
10-20-2022, 03:22 PM | #5 |
Robot
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What is the condition of your engine mounts? I chased a clunk that ended up being a collapsed engine mount.
Also check that the struts were installed with all the correct pieces and that the top nut on the strut rod is torqued properly. |
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10-26-2022, 10:33 AM | #6 |
Driving cars and riding bikes really fast
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Dealing with loose parts is so annoying. Could be an engine mount but I seriously doubt it given such low mileage. Mine are solid and I'm at 116K miles. Been under my car numerous times fixing/upgrading stuff. My struts are worn out (one possibly leaking?) but I don't have the cash to replace them. It's just a fun money pit.
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335i, sport pkg, 3 pedals, Blacked out, LED markers, OZ Ultraleggera wheels, Firestone Indy 500s, x-pipe, vibrant 1792, PE mod
MHD stage 2+, BMS DPs, ARM charge pipe, Tial BOV, ARM FMIC, dual cone, CSF radiator, M3 control arms, sways, HAWK pads. https://www.strava.com/athletes/8309149 Follow me on Strava Last edited by Jaronbwall; 11-01-2022 at 10:42 AM.. |
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10-28-2022, 05:49 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
I found a rubber mount that the air box is supposed to sit wedge between the subframe and the oil heat exchanger. I refitted in the correct place and I thing the sound reduce a little. Next I torqued the steering rack bolts, and checked all the arms where they mount to the subframe. I also torque the front subframe bolts and ARB mounts. Sound got worse??🤬 The only other thing I have removed and put back on is the under-tray so I've ordered a under-tray bolt kit as one bolt is missing on the heat shield on the under-tray. As far as I know I do t think the undertray had ever been remove when I purchased the car at 60k and the noise started when I removed it the first time. It's so annoying the car is driving great apart from this noise it's so frustrating. |
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11-01-2022, 10:46 AM | #8 |
Driving cars and riding bikes really fast
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The under-tray can make noise but it's not a "clunk when cornering hard left". I'd rule that out. Even with two or three screws/bolts missing it's just going to rattle slightly.
"However seeing as my steering wheel doesn't centre easily" - what exactly does this mean? Unless someone was messing with or replaced the rack you're steering wheel should dead center. Even doing DP or subframe stuff you don't remove the rack. It's connected but moved out of the way.
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335i, sport pkg, 3 pedals, Blacked out, LED markers, OZ Ultraleggera wheels, Firestone Indy 500s, x-pipe, vibrant 1792, PE mod
MHD stage 2+, BMS DPs, ARM charge pipe, Tial BOV, ARM FMIC, dual cone, CSF radiator, M3 control arms, sways, HAWK pads. https://www.strava.com/athletes/8309149 Follow me on Strava |
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11-04-2022, 07:38 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
The left had turn noise has gone it was a traction strut bolt that need tightening. Thanks for info on the undertray I'm going try anyway because it's cheap. Problem is I feel no vibration through the steering wheel at all but I can hear from the front of the car. Just sounds like some heavy ish is loose and vibrates/bumps around. Had to describe. |
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02-28-2023, 04:01 PM | #10 |
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Got to the bottom of the rattle/noise.
Turns out if you over torque the arb mounts vibration passes into the subframe. The noise got worse when I tightened the mounts. Bang on the torque setting and they are fine. The only nvh I have now is due to the rose bushes on the m3 arms. |
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