[jeho]

Has any reputable companies produced an aftermarket Radiator for the 335i yet?

The solution to the LIMP modes from tracking are oil related and water temp (radiator) related, or am I wrong?

I see that there are aftermarket oil cooler options now but no radiator?

[e90AW335i]

Originally Posted by jho86

Has any reputable companies produced an aftermarket Radiator for the 335i yet?

The solution to the LIMP modes from tracking are oil related and water temp (radiator) related, or am I wrong?

I see that there are aftermarket oil cooler options now but no radiator?

The limp modes from the oil temps can be solved with VK Motorwerks Oil cooler. Click the link in my signature....

[jeho]

^^haha are you sponsored? or just helping out all the vendors by posting the links lol
I have seen that already...

yes i know that is PART of the solution...
but I thought that some people mentioned that our water cooling system is lacking
especially in lower gears higher revs which will also throw limp as the water temps are too high??

what im asking if not clear is, ANY RADIATOR UPGRADES produced at the moment??

[Zeph]

This is by no means a solution if you are having high water temps... but this stuff isn't just snake oil, it works. I used it in my 350Z to help keep temps. down at the track. Sorry, don't know of any aftermarket radiators for this car yet.

[e90AW335i]

Originally Posted by jho86

^^haha are you sponsored? or just helping out all the vendors by posting the links lol
I have seen that already...

yes i know that is PART of the solution...
but I thought that some people mentioned that our water cooling system is lacking
especially in lower gears higher revs which will also throw limp as the water temps are too high??

what im asking if not clear is, ANY RADIATOR UPGRADES produced at the moment??

Nope, not sponsored. I paid for the part but it is the only affordable oil cooler out right now so I thought I would respond with it.

[leftcoastman]

Water Wetter does not work on this car unless you drain the coolant and replace with distilled water. Of course you have no freeze protection.

I've logged coolant temps on the same day, before and after adding water wetter to stock coolant mix. No change. This was at the track, so same route, lol.

http://www.pwr.com.au/radiators_car.html

They have an upgraded radiator.

[jeho]

OOOOOO sweeet ^^

PWR5970 335i 08 Twin Turbo 42MM

[Orb]

Originally Posted by leftcoastman

Water Wetter does not work on this car unless you drain the coolant and replace with distilled water. Of course you have no freeze protection.

I've logged coolant temps on the same day, before and after adding water wetter to stock coolant mix. No change. This was at the track, so same route, lol.

http://www.pwr.com.au/radiators_car.html

They have an upgraded radiator.

The data logging means just about nothing without a reference. The question is what do think you are logging…most don't know, and if you don't, then you shouldn't be doing it.

The water wetter works because it changes the basic properties of the fluid. It not rocket science and so well understood and proven. The product has been around for 25 years in one form or another. If you can’t understand the physics then making comments on something saying I went to the track thus something doesn’t work is pointless and misleading. You might as well say antifreeze is better at transferring heat than water because this it is exactly what you are saying…there is no debating this.

Or

[leftcoastman]

Originally Posted by Orb

The data logging means just about nothing without a reference. The question is what do think you are logging…most don't know, and if you don't, then you shouldn't be doing it.

The water wetter works because it changes the basic properties of the fluid. It not rocket science and so well understood and proven. The product has been around for 25 years in one form or another. If you can’t understand the physics then making comments on something saying I went to the track thus something doesn’t work is pointless and misleading. You might as well say antifreeze is better at transferring heat than water because this it is exactly what you are saying…there is no debating this.

Or

Ahhh, Orb on his high horse again! I almost missed ya, buddy.

You can pontificate all you want about how the lab has proven that it works well.

My test bed is the race track. I log OBD2 coolant temperatures, got it up to 245, boost got cut.

I put in water wetter, ran again with the same ambient temps and low and behold, the coolant temp rise curve looked exactly the same and pow, hit 245 and cut boost!

You can pontificate about how the OBD2 sensor isn't as sensitive nor as accurate as your unobtanium based super scientific down-to-a-gnat's-ass thermometer, but the fact is that our cars use 245 as a limit when boost is cut and it relies on OBD2 - the same data I'm logging.

I'm excited to see how bad your grammar will get, now that you're pissed.

[Orb]

Originally Posted by leftcoastman

Ahhh, Orb on his high horse again! I almost missed ya, buddy.

You can pontificate all you want about how the lab has proven that it works well.

My test bed is the race track. I log OBD2 coolant temperatures, got it up to 245, boost got cut.

I put in water wetter, ran again with the same ambient temps and low and behold, the coolant temp rise curve looked exactly the same and pow, hit 245 and cut boost!

You can pontificate about how the OBD2 sensor isn't as sensitive nor as accurate as your unobtanium based super scientific down-to-a-gnat's-ass thermometer, but the fact is that our cars use 245 as a limit when boost is cut and it relies on OBD2 - the same data I'm logging.

I'm excited to see how bad your grammar will get, now that you're pissed.

There really isn’t anything to debate. You don’t understand what fluid properties are so it is okay.

The rest of what you stating is just a measurement with no purpose or meaning to draw any conclusion on anything. If can support your data then please show me how with ambient temperature and load conditions…I do mean something. You’re talking about a 3-4% improvement with this product at best. It will not fix a system that is running away.

You may want to start off with a Mr. Science play set before you move on to more challenging things. My niece seems to like it maybe she can give you a few pointers.

Orb

[Mr. 5]

I think that an aftermarket radiator is completely pointless.
The water pump strives to reach 4 different target temps.
If you put in a more efficient radiator then the water pump will still reach those temps.

You will do nothing productive by adding a different radiator!
A bunch of people still do not understand that our engines were meant to run at certain temps.
Cooler does not always mean better.

[leftcoastman]

Originally Posted by Orb

There really isn’t anything to debate. You don’t understand what fluid properties are so it is okay.

The rest of what you stating is just a measurement with no purpose or meaning to draw any conclusion on anything. If can support your data then please show me how with ambient temperature and load conditions…I do mean something. You’re talking about a 3-4% improvement with this product at best. It will not fix a system that is running away.

You may want to start off with a Mr. Science play set before you move on to more challenging things. My niece seems to like it maybe she can give you a few pointers.

Orb

Orb, you are too easy to provoke. I am guilty for pushing that big red button on your forehead. Bottom line is that it doesn't work to solve the heat problem on the 335i.

Congrats on having someone proofread your grammar, though. I was going to suggest that you avoid posting in English and stick to Hooked on Phonics Level One.

Looks like you learned your lesson after this post: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...2&postcount=14

That one was a doozy to read. 1,000,000 points to the first guy who can translate that into English.

I'm done. You enjoy your lab.

[e90AW335i]

Grammar Lab.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by Zeph

This is by no means a solution if you are having high water temps... but this stuff isn't just snake oil, it works. I used it in my 350Z to help keep temps. down at the track. Sorry, don't know of any aftermarket radiators for this car yet.

We will second the Redline Water Wetter. That additive along with Redline Oil has kept us out of the temperature related limp home modes on track days.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by leftcoastman

Water Wetter does not work on this car unless you drain the coolant and replace with distilled water. Of course you have no freeze protection.

I've logged coolant temps on the same day, before and after adding water wetter to stock coolant mix. No change. This was at the track, so same route, lol.

http://www.pwr.com.au/radiators_car.html

They have an upgraded radiator.

We usually run about 10% BMW antifreeze. No need for freeze protection in Southern California.

We never logged any data nor did we ever experienced coolant related issues, but use Redline Water Wetter for the extra protection.

[Lane]

Too high coolant temp causes limp. Better radiator decreases coolant temp and thus avoids limp.

[LAbeemer]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

I think that an aftermarket radiator is completely pointless.
The water pump strives to reach 4 different target temps.
If you put in a more efficient radiator then the water pump will still reach those temps.

You will do nothing productive by adding a different radiator!
A bunch of people still do not understand that our engines were meant to run at certain temps.
Cooler does not always mean better.

Your right in saying operating temperatures need to be reached but the subtleties in keeping that temperature stable are a lot more complex than you know. Improving the quality on individual parts only aids the system to more accurately do its job. Your correct the ECM will first bring the engine up to operating temperatures no matter how efficient the radiator is. But if the radiator is cooling at the high end of its cooling ability keeping temperatures down in extreme cases can be useless. But I doubt the stock radiator IS NEAR its limit, what I think is the culprit is the FAN. if you look at the fan its an electric fan while fans of the past were clutch driven. Electric fans have come a long way but still cant flow the air that a clutch style belt driven fan can. I do believe though that someone can utilize more surface area and with a high efficient motor flow alot more air than the stock fan. Basis for my theory, cooling seems to be enough at high speed even under the same loads, hence the cooling system (radiator more so) is doing its job. Low speeds not enough air is flowing through the radiator to do its job. So if a fan can increase the flow during low speed high load operation we should have no problem with cooling. JMO


I'm dyslexic please don't flame me for my grammar, I couldn't find a 12 y/o to proof read for me this late.

[Lane]

The coolant temp based limps occur at track driving AT cars. The water pump is not able to keep the temps at the target since the stock radiator efficiency is not good enough to provide the cooling needed.

[LAbeemer]

again if the stock radiator could get more air flow it would increase it efficiency. If its up to hard pulls at top speeds without overheating then mimic that top speed air flow and magic

[alan93rsa]

If water wetter does what it is supposed to do the water out of the head should be hotter. If the radiator is up to the task then it should be able to transfer more heat to the air. I think that becomes the problem. The stock radiator was designed to do a specific job. Can it get rid of the additional heat input?

As to adding water wetter to 100% water or blended with antifreeze my thoughts are: You'll thank the the guy in front of you on the track if he blows a coolant hose and isn't running antifreeze. If he is running antifreeze you may want to get the name of his body shop as you assess the off track damage.

[BavarianBullet]

Never run ANY antifreeze at ANY race track where other fast cars are RACING. It's slippery like oil and extremely hard to clean up when spilled. i.e people behind you will crash if a hose lets go etc which actually happened to a friend of mine once at 120mph at a dragstrip. Luckily he ran 100% water.

Water wetter does work. I used it for years on 5.0 mustangs in the 90s. Nice dumb 60's era engine design with simple thermostat. Dropped temps 10'F reliably. It's said to be non-sudsing detergent (eg Tide, hmmm) but it basically stops bubbles from forming and reduces the surface tension of water so it essentially makes more contact area with parts and carries off more heat.

If you want to see what a radiator is doing for you, just put a thermocouple after the water outlet on the radiator or just stick it in between the cooling fins right near the outlet. No controversy, just physics there.

I would think since the ECU is playing games with the water pump RPM all the time it's going to tough to get a fair test. It would be nice to use a tune that can control water pump strategy.

New radiator for a BMW? How much? $1000, $2000 lol. Hopefully less, assuming we do need it but I would be willing to bet a piggy back tuner could intercept and modify water pump duty cycle if they wanted to. That might be the ticket if you don't have a flash tune that can do it from the ECU.