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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Blown slave cylinder after clutch install
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11-27-2012, 03:11 AM | #1 |
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Blown slave cylinder after clutch install
So I have been very careful so far in my clutch install and put in a new throwout bearing & pilot bearing see image of post install here... http://bit.ly/TnDyM1
Got the slave cylinder in and the pedal fell to the floor... And boom it exploded with slight pressure. Dripping brake fluid all over the place. Never did open the line so didnt think it would need bleeding. What went wrong? |
11-27-2012, 08:21 AM | #3 |
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Exactly. You missed the release lever with the pushrod on the slave cylinder. It happens. You may be able to push it back together and put the rubber dust seal back on. You'll just have to bleed the clutch. You may be able to get away with topping off the brake fluid reservoir (must be pretty full, at or above the MAX mark) and pumping up the pedal with your hand. You will have to pull the pedal up, wait a second, push down, wait a second, pull up, repeat about 100 times. You will feel the pedal getting firmer if this method is successful.
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11-27-2012, 09:31 AM | #4 |
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02-08-2019, 02:41 AM | #5 |
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Drives: 2006 BMW 325i
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Bump. Just did a new clutch and throw out bearing on my 325i e90. after reassembling, my clutch pedal is insanely hard to press down. gonna replace the slave and master clutch cylinder and see if that fixes it
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02-18-2019, 12:26 PM | #7 | |
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and I removed the ninja star I just replaced the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder last night I tried to bleed it for about an hour and the clutch pedal now goes all the way to the floor and has no pressure in it what so ever any thoughts? |
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02-23-2019, 07:40 AM | #8 |
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Go and buy a hand vacuum pump bleeder kit. Pull the pedal off the floor, fill the reservoir to the brim and then use the vacuum bleeder. Attach it to the nipple, pump up the vacuum to max, crack open bleeder and suck out 30mL, close nipple and top up the reservoir. Repeat 3-4 times and it should be good.
Did you remove the ninja star before or after you fully tightened the clutch cover bolts? Did the self adjusting mechanism move when you removed the star? |
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03-02-2019, 05:20 PM | #9 | |
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i had the pressure plate installed incorrectly (the plate wasn't lined up with the pins on the flywheel) and I removed the ninja star. It's on there properly now but I'm afraid the teeth of the clutch cover might not be in the right position |
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03-25-2019, 03:31 PM | #10 |
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Hey man, any update? I just had my worn out clutch replaced 2 Saturdays ago, followed by master and slave because the clutch pedal wasn't working anymore.
Think the slave might have been faulty, or contaminated. OR, I'm thinking now, like you, if the pressure plate was installed incorrectly. |
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03-25-2019, 03:58 PM | #11 |
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Bleeding the clutch on these cars sucks. I usually push the clutch to the floor and then REVERSE bleed from the slave cylinder. I use the pressure bleeder that advance auto rents out for free. This is the easiest way I've found to successfully bleed the system.
Just make sure you don't overflow the brake fluid reservoir when pushing fluid up to it. Also make sure you don't run out of fluid when using the pressure bleeder. If it empties then you'll be injecting air into the lines... |
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02-20-2022, 08:37 AM | #12 |
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Figured I'd post on here since I just had the same issue as OP. Re-installed my slave and clutch pedal was loose, but had very short range and would not go all the way down. Had to remove and reinstall 3 times to get it to hit the clutch fork. You have to feel the cylinder pushing on the fork when you're installing. If it goes in and you don't feel resistance, you probably missed the fork. I was about to give up after the first 2 attempts until i read this post.
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11-18-2022, 10:43 AM | #13 |
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I just had this happen to me after the third install. A bit of history: (Recently disconnected brake lines for rear sway install) I then drove for many miles with no issues after brake bleeding. I then tried to move the car one morning and had 0 clutch pressure.
Fast forward to diagnosing day: I uninstalled the slave and had seen fluid within the rubber boot (figured it went bad) I replaced the slave under warranty and then bled the replacement slave outside the car. re-installed and then it blew up. Got a brand new one and bled with a motive bleeder and it exploded for the second time. Just to note: I’ve installed it bleeding the slave externally before however it’s such a PITA to thread the nuts to the studs at the same time you’re pushing it in. For this occasion, Every time if installed it I can feel the slave hitting the fork. Im wondering if it’s a seized throw out bearing which is causing an overload of pressure. Any ideas? Recommendations? Addition info: I checked out the fork with a bore scope and it looked fine. After the first slave explosion I tried to push the fork with a socket extension but didn’t have enough leverage (I think) I also don’t know if it’s possible to push it by hand. I feel I’m running out of options. My running theory is that as I’m bolting down the slave it’s somehow jumping out of the fork. Alternate theory is that something is critically wrong with the fork/throw-out or pivot bearing. Next steps, I will likely try and push the fork by hand again to see what sort of feedback I can muster. I will then probably buy yet another slave and monitor the alignment with the borescope. If it explodes again at least I’ll know I need to drop the trans. Tyia! |
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06-10-2023, 05:08 AM | #14 | |
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