[lowrydr310]

I have a non-iDrive pre-LCI E93 with a CD73 BMW Professional head unit, and it has the commonly broken LCD. It looks like replacement screens are $125, and there are a bunch of replacment units on eBay of unknown condition ranging from $50-100.

Should I replace the screen, try my luck with an Ebay unit, or just get one of the Android units for $250? The Eonon Q65PRO units look really good, but the photos I've seen have the HVAC controls sticking out and not lookign good. It also looks like I'll have to remove or relocate my seat heater buttons.

Are there any other good clean headunit replacement options?

[sam9116]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

I have a non-iDrive pre-LCI E93 with a CD73 BMW Professional head unit, and it has the commonly broken LCD. It looks like replacement screens are $125, and there are a bunch of replacment units on eBay of unknown condition ranging from $50-100.

Should I replace the screen, try my luck with an Ebay unit, or just get one of the Android units for $250? The Eonon Q65PRO units look really good, but the photos I've seen have the HVAC controls sticking out and not lookign good. It also looks like I'll have to remove or relocate my seat heater buttons.

Are there any other good clean headunit replacement options?

the cheapest option is just to get a radio from an LCI car, the pixel is less deformed

[andy_06xi]

"Are there any other good HU replacement options"

I have the older Eonon 9465 -- which I think looks more OEM than the Q65Pro. It has actual buttons for Volume and Nav. I'm very happy with it.

The Climate Control Unit does move down and 'sticks out' somewhat -- but it is really not objectionable. You wouldn't notice it unless someone pointed it out.

Regarding Seat Heater buttons -- you can replace your Climate Control Unit with an LCI unit. This is an easy swap (no coding required -- and you need to remove the Climate Control unit anyway). The LCI unit includes seat heater buttons.

One thing about any aftermarket head unit -- is that they provide a rear view camera mechanism. This was one of my primary motivations for the switch.

[ctuna]

Before you put in anything aftermarket to replace the Head Unit
you need to be aware of a few things.
Which sound system do you have.
If you have logic 7 it does not run on analog outputs from a Head Unit.
If you have a base system there is a parallel connection between the underseats
and the front doors.
Some Head units may not have the proper outputs to run either the Logic 7
or Hi Fi amp .

You may have to do some programming to code out error codes like the
SOS error when you remove the and replace the with aftermarket as it none
I know of support the MOST bus modules.

[andy_06xi]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Before you put in anything aftermarket to replace the Head Unit
you need to be aware of a few things.
Which sound system do you have.
If you have logic 7 it does not run on analog outputs from a Head Unit.
If you have a base system there is a parallel connection between the underseats
and the front doors.
Some Head units may not have the proper outputs to run either the Logic 7
or Hi Fi amp .

You may have to do some programming to code out error codes like the
SOS error when you remove the and replace the with aftermarket as it none
I know of support the MOST bus modules.

Yes -- I have logic 7 and needed to buy the RCA-to-MOST adapter that Eonon sells. I also had the SOS error coded out -- but this is kinda optional as the error is only a yellow warning at startup that could be ignored.

I'd also warn that although the wiring is plug-and-play -- the power connection turns off with the ignition. This results in a 30 sec to 1 minute Android reboot when you restart the car. This is avoidable by running a dedicated always-on power wire to the HU.

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by andy_06xi

Yes -- I have logic 7 and needed to buy the RCA-to-MOST adapter that Eonon sells. I also had the SOS error coded out -- but this is kinda optional as the error is only a yellow warning at startup that could be ignored.

I'd also warn that although the wiring is plug-and-play -- the power connection turns off with the ignition. This results in a 30 sec to 1 minute Android reboot when you restart the car. This is avoidable by running a dedicated always-on power wire to the HU.

I have a Logic 7 system. I learned a bunch since I posted this - if I get any aftermarket system I'm likely going to need a MOST adapter to convert the analog signals to digital/optical for the L7 amps. This means no fader capability or any time delay features that most of the fancy aftermaret systems have. I'm not sure about all the systems, but I know the Dyanvin units have a separate power connection to keep them in standby for a fast boot when the car is powered. Not sure about the other systems, but I've decided for now to replace the CD73 system with a newer unit.

I do like the android units that require cutting the dash, they definitely give the car a modern look and just plug into the AUX input. I have no problem with that, however most of those units I researched look questionable with regard to quality and manufacturer support.