[Tomnavigator]

I would like to include my two cents worth on the issue of replacing valve covers and the plastic intake. There is no need to remove the valve covers to do a carbon clean. You can check for closed intake valves without needing to remove the valve covers. There are several ways that work. So, the probability of needing to replace the valve covers is almost 0. Even if they were removed, I would think that less than 1 in a 200 cars would need one of them replaced. They are not stress members and there is no reason they will break when removing and replacing them. Replacing the intake manifold could be done if you decided to replace it instead of spending the time to clean it. But not because it is needed because it is made of plastic that degraded over time. I used a very good (3500 PSI) pressure washer to clean my intake and The pressure washer never damaged the intake. My pressure washer removed the chrome from the trim on my truck and paint from front facia. But, never hurt the intake manifold of my 335D. The intake is made of fiber reinforced plastic which is very tough. I would think that most intake manifolds that are replaced are replaced because the person cleaning the manifold just did not want to spend the time and effort cleaning the manifold. I cleaned mine with a combination of solvents, pressure washer and then with oven cleaner followed by the pressure washer. The best combination I found was oven cleaner followed by the pressure washer. Slightly over one can of Walmart's cheapest ($4/can) oven cleaner was needed. I sprayed oven cleaner inside, waited an hour and then used the pressure washer to clean it out. Two rounds of this and my intake looked like new inside and out. The down side is that you will be very dirty with carbon goo if you use a pressure washer. Wear old throw away clothes and have gojo and/or other degreaser handy to clean up with afterward. I have never been so dirty in my life. I don't think it would work very well without a pressure washer. I think a normal water hose would not be enough by itself.

[335dlci]

Originally Posted by Tomnavigator

I would like to include my two cents worth on the issue of replacing valve covers and the plastic intake. There is no need to remove the valve covers to do a carbon clean. You can check for closed intake valves without needing to remove the valve covers. There are several ways that work. So, the probability of needing to replace the valve covers is almost 0. Even if they were removed, I would think that less than 1 in a 200 cars would need one of them replaced. They are not stress members and there is no reason they will break when removing and replacing them. Replacing the intake manifold could be done if you decided to replace it instead of spending the time to clean it. But not because it is needed because it is made of plastic that degraded over time. I used a very good (3500 PSI) pressure washer to clean my intake and The pressure washer never damaged the intake. My pressure washer removed the chrome from the trim on my truck and paint from front facia. But, never hurt the intake manifold of my 335D. The intake is made of fiber reinforced plastic which is very tough. I would think that most intake manifolds that are replaced are replaced because the person cleaning the manifold just did not want to spend the time and effort cleaning the manifold. I cleaned mine with a combination of solvents, pressure washer and then with oven cleaner followed by the pressure washer. The best combination I found was oven cleaner followed by the pressure washer. Slightly over one can of Walmart's cheapest ($4/can) oven cleaner was needed. I sprayed oven cleaner inside, waited an hour and then used the pressure washer to clean it out. Two rounds of this and my intake looked like new inside and out. The down side is that you will be very dirty with carbon goo if you use a pressure washer. Wear old throw away clothes and have gojo and/or other degreaser handy to clean up with afterward. I have never been so dirty in my life. I don't think it would work very well without a pressure washer. I think a normal water hose would not be enough by itself.

i recommend removing the valve cover and replacing it.... it does cause a boost leak when they fail and turbo failure...

[silverseal99]

I recommend pulling the valve cover to permit better access to the valves which are hard enough to get at without the valve cover on the vehicle. Scraping the goo out of the runners in the valve cover was easy--a little paint thinner and carb cleaner finished them off. The valves were a different story as they are down, in, and out of easy reach. I scraped and vacuumed the heavy crud before applying the walnut shell blast. The 6 piece carving set (Item 34152 from Harbor Freight) was my go-to tool for scraping. I also fashioned some scrapers out of 1/4 inch brake line to get deeper into the valve pocket. I then hit each valve pocket about 10 or more times with fresh walnut shells. I found that, while I could reuse the shells, they used shells resulted in so many clogs in my blaster that it wasn't worth the time or effort. 25# of walnut shells is way more than enough to do one engine (maybe 2). Got the valves about 95% clean (there are some areas that were shielded from the shells and have a residual hard layer of carbon).

I sent the intake manifold out for professional cleaning. I removed the swirl flaps and detailed them with elbow grease and carb cleaner. However, scraping the intake runners left huge amounts of goo in the main plenum. A local machine shop did the pressure washing and cleaning and gave it back to me "like new" for $45.

Anybody know how to test the high pressure fuel pump on a 2011 335d? I have reassembled the engine but now have a "crank, no start" situation. I've run the fuel pump primer routine in ISTA about 10 times. The LPFP pump is audible and ran the entire 3 mins without issue. I have good flow from the fuel return line fitting at the #1 injector while the LPFP is running so I'm pretty sure fuel is making it to the HPFP. I have cranked the engine about 10 times for 10-15 seconds each time with no start. I removed the HP fuel line from #1 injector and put a brake bleeder vacuum device to it and both ran the LPFP routine and cranked the engine but got no diesel out. I am showing code 42E2 DDE: Changeover, rail pressure control, and code 4B90 DDE: Rail-pressure monitoring on engine start. I have pulled and reconnected the plug housing on both the fuel rail Pressure Sensor and Pressure Regulating Valve with no joy. Any ideas from anyone that has solved a similar problem or who knows how to test the HPFP would be appreciated. I have Rheingold on a laptop but am lacking 2011 335d data in the INPA and EDIABAS portions of the software (returns a "proper controller not found" or similar error).

Finally, if I committed a faux pas with the HPFP plea in this thread, please forgive me. I'm relatively new to these things and don't know the protocol.

[silverseal99]

Attached are my lessons learned and a few observations based on experience.
Thanks to all the contributors to this string--couldn't have done the job as well without them.

[Persian Whisperjet]

Originally Posted by silverseal99

Attached are my lessons learned and a few observations based on experience.
Thanks to all the contributors to this string--couldn't have done the job as well without them.

Fantastic write up thanks!

[coz_mo]

Originally Posted by kpm

As original owner of my 2009 335d and fearing CBU for years, after 207,000 kms/128,000 miles, mine had yet to experience CBU related check engine codes or significant mileage drop. In recently removing the intake manifold to replace the glow plug controller, I got my first glimpse of the “as is" condition......see pics..

While there is less carbon than expected and it's tempting to just re-install the intake manifold, my maintenance background makes me sympathetic to get the walnut blasting done while things are accessible. Can any members in the GTA area recommend an independent garage in the west Toronto to Hamilton area that perform this service and are familiar with our M57 engine?
Alternatively, though not a venture that is on my “bucket list”, with the great trailblazing work documented by various others on this awesome forum, I could probably muster the courage to take this on myself. Are there any members in the GTA area who own and would rent out the special tools, (wands, vacuum adaptors, engine turning tool) that are needed for this work?
Stay safe!

Did you ever find anyone for walnut blasting? I'm also in Toronto.

[kpm]

Originally Posted by coz_mo

Did you ever find anyone for walnut blasting? I'm also in Toronto.

The few service suppliers found were only familiar with blasting the 335i and not confident with the apparently more complex M57 engine. Beyond the dealerships, carbon cleaning for our diesels seems to be a scarce service in the GTA. With 225 kms on the clock and only a cleaning of the intake manifold in 2020, a DIY full cleaning may be in the cards for 2022 thanks to the terrific resources available in this thread. Fortunately the carbon related codes have remained dormant thus far.

[Chief Orman]

Anyone know of a good shop in SF Bay Area? I am getting quoted $1800 by a good shop but that seems ridiculous to me.

[silverseal99]

I was quoted $2,600 in the San Diego area. Since I have two 335d cars and both needed it, I opted the DIY route. Saved a ton of money, but it's not a simple task. Finishing up car #2 now--will post an update to my prior DIY post with some additional observations, clarifications and tricks when I'm done.

[silverseal99]

All,

I just completed CBU clean of my second 335d--this one with 64,000 miles. I updated my previous attachment to include recommended parts, tools and maintenance actions. Hope it's useful to someone out there.

[spurcap]

A little hail mary - I have my e70 35d intake manifold off to replace glow plug and the CBU on the intake was reasonably bad but only looks moderately bad (@155k miles) on the valves. I have a compressor and Harbor Freight blaster but dont have the attachments for the BMW engine... If anyone knows a source to rent/borrow these in next few days in NJ (near NYC) t would be great to give it a clean. But otherwise, I expect I will just need to clean the intake and put it back together for another day...

[MR OHNOZ]

Great post. Helped me a lot. Regards

[Just_Joe]

I am in the San Diego arear also. East County. Let me know if anyone finds a place for walnut blasting. I have a bad back and DIY is not an option for me.