[jopakr]

As the title says my car died while driving and now will crank but not start. Fuel pressure is 72, has spark but no crank. I pulled the codes and keep getting 2A9A. I've swapped cam sensors, no change. I pulled cleaned and swapped Vanos solenoids..no change. Is there anything else I can check before pulling the valve cover to check timing? Also have code A559 "Instrument cluster power supply has been switched off (closed circuit current cutoff relay)"

Back story- 4 months ago the bolts sheared off of the cam gears. Had that fixed at a local shop. Car has been running fine until this.

[gbalthrop]

I presume the Starter cranks the engine at ~ Normal Starter speed (at least until battery depleted), BUT engine does NOT even Sputter, as opposed to trying to start with sputter or brief RPM surge, but no Starter disengagement?

HOW exactly did you determine you HAVE Spark?
What Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software do you have available?
Do you have anything that can display "Live Data" of (1) Engine RPM, and/or (2) Intake Cam Position Sensor Signal, BOTH during Starter Cranking?

2A9A Code MAY be issue with wiring between Intake Cam Position Sensor Connector (at sensor) and the Connector at DME. If you had Valve Cover off to do VANOS bolt repair recently, harness could be pinched or damaged. A559 code is probably secondary to discharged battery from Starter Cranking.

2A9A code suggests an issue with the Signal from the Intake Cam Position Sensor, as received by the DME. Normally, if the DME is NOT getting a reliable cam position signal, it will NOT (i) Fire the coils, or (ii) Pulse the injectors, as it cannot reliably determine which stroke (compression or exhaust) the cylinders are on, simply using Crankshaft Position Sensor signal. So if "2A9A" is the ONLY code you have (other than the KOMBI code which has nothing to do with causing "No Fire" issue), then electrically testing Intake Cam Sensor signal wire between Connectors at Sensor & DME should be 1st Step.

Here is the BMW Fault Code Lookup Definition for 2A9A, along with the link to the Fault Information Sheet for that code. See the "Service Notes" on that sheet, with testing of signal wire as the first step:
2A9A | DME: Crankshaft - inlet camshaft, synchronization | MSV80
http://www.bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagVie...EAMQA4ADAANAA=

Reason I believe the fault is due to missing or "out-of-range" electrical signal is that if the DME WERE firing the plugs, and pulsing the injectors (and you have proper 6 bar rail pressure), the engine should sputter, nearly start, or start & run rough if it were simply a matter of mechanical timing of one or both cams. ALSO, there is no fault for the Exhaust cam, which there SHOULD be if timing chain/ mechanical issue.

Please answer the questions above, and if you have a Scan Tool, but aren't certain whether it can display the live data mentioned, please provide Make & Model of Tool & let us know if you have the Owner's Manual for that Scan Tool. Also let us know if you have a Windows Laptop, and could take several hours to download & install INPA (BMW Standard Tools). Download is Free, and only cost would be your time & $45 for BimmerGeeks K+DCAN Cable. You can then Diagnose ANYTHING with a little help from your friends (on this Forum ;-).

Also please let us know if you have a Multimeter & know how to use it to read Voltage & Ohms/ Continuity.

Attached to NEXT POST are several ScreenPrints from ISTA, correct for your 2011 328i, showing "Valve Gear" wiring SSP, and the Location & View of the Connectors and wire colors. The Intake Camshaft Position Sensor SIGNAL wire is Yellow and goes from Sensor Connector X6214/1 (Pin#1 of Connector X6214) to X60007/11, or Pin #11 of Connector X60007 at the DME in the E-box. THAT is the wire to be tested for continuity end-to-end (NOT open-circuit) and also short/ continuity to chassis ground.

George

[gbalthrop]

ISTA ScreenPrints, Valve Gear, 2011 328i N52K, DME Connector X60007 per prior post:

George

[u170who]

gbalthrop Hi George, need a bit of help here. I have the same codes. I’m going to do these tests but I’m not really good with the voltmeter. What setting should i set it to test continuity? What wire do i put on the far end? Do i put separate power?