[richas]

I have a 2010 E91. I have the scratch on the left rear quarter panel. It’s down to the primer.
I have touchup paint and clearcoat from a body shop. They are in vials with little brushes. The basecoat is waterborne, black number 668.
The scratch looks a lot worse in this picture than it really is, I’m hesitant to go out it with these little brushes they are still a lot larger than a the scratch.
I did see a YouTube video where someone just wiped the paint into the scratch and then use rubbing compound on the overage.

I would appreciate any techniques or tricks.

Thanks.
Rich.

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

https://www.automotivetouchup.com/how-to-videos/
https://touchupdirect.com/blog/how-to/

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by E93Seattle (Racerbruce)

https://www.automotivetouchup.com/how-to-videos/
https://touchupdirect.com/blog/how-to/

Perfect timing. My car got keyed along the drivers side, 1" on the front fender, ALL along both doors, and 2" on the rear quarter panel in front of the wheel well.

Do you suggest I try DIY? I'm pretty handy with compounding and polishing, just trying to figure out if it's worth paying someone else to do the work when I know the result still won't be 100%.

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

Perfect timing. My car got keyed along the drivers side, 1" on the front fender, ALL along both doors, and 2" on the rear quarter panel in front of the wheel well.

Do you suggest I try DIY? I'm pretty handy with compounding and polishing, just trying to figure out if it's worth paying someone else to do the work when I know the result still won't be 100%.

greetings lowry,
oh no - this is terrible. wnat?? why?? just unreal.

YES, you can do this, IF....the depth of the scratch is clear coat only, you can remove this.

IF the depth of the scratch is into the paint, it will require sanding, filling, priming, painting.

if clear coat only:
-depending on the depth of the scratch, if really deep in the clear coat start with 2000 grit wet/dry paper and using a spray bottle, keep the area and paper wet.
-if the depth isn't too deep, start with 3000 grit wet/dry paper.
-always finish using 3000 grit.
-you will know when you are being effective in removing clear coat, as the water becomes "milky"....watch for this.
-when in doubt, don't sand too deep....you can't go back if you get into the paint.
-the sanded surface should look "dull".
-if the scratch is into the paint, you could order your specific color from touchupdirect.com and get their primer and the clear coat as one purchase.
-then you could attempt to repair and paint - it can be done.
-to remove the sanded areas, i suggest meguiars m105 cutting compound and an orange colored pad on your orbital wheel.
-after using the m105, i suggest moving to meguiars ultimate compound.

i have appx 60 hours invested in addressing egregious clear coat conditions from the PO and i was able to get ALL of them out.

please keep this thread updated - you can do this.

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by E93Seattle (Racerbruce)

greetings lowry,
oh no - this is terrible. wnat?? why?? just unreal.

YES, you can do this, IF....the depth of the scratch is clear coat only, you can remove this.

IF the depth of the scratch is into the paint, it will require sanding, filling, priming, painting.

if clear coat only:
-depending on the depth of the scratch, if really deep in the clear coat start with 2000 grit wet/dry paper and using a spray bottle, keep the area and paper wet.
-if the depth isn't too deep, start with 3000 grit wet/dry paper.
-always finish using 3000 grit.
-you will know when you are being effective in removing clear coat, as the water becomes "milky"....watch for this.
-when in doubt, don't sand too deep....you can't go back if you get into the paint.
-the sanded surface should look "dull".
-if the scratch is into the paint, you could order your specific color from touchupdirect.com and get their primer and the clear coat as one purchase.
-then you could attempt to repair and paint - it can be done.
-to remove the sanded areas, i suggest meguiars m105 cutting compound and an orange colored pad on your orbital wheel.
-after using the m105, i suggest moving to meguiars ultimate compound.

i have appx 60 hours invested in addressing egregious clear coat conditions from the PO and i was able to get ALL of them out.

please keep this thread updated - you can do this.

My scratch is well into the paint so I'd need the touch up paint for sure. I've seen it done, many videos with good enough but not perfect results. I'm fine with good enough; but I'm trying to determine if it's worth trying it myself or just paying someone. I am not afraid of a project but I'm leaning towards paying someone to do this.

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

My scratch is well into the paint so I'd need the touch up paint for sure. I've seen it done, many videos with good enough but not perfect results. I'm fine with good enough; but I'm trying to determine if it's worth trying it myself or just paying someone. I am not afraid of a project but I'm leaning towards paying someone to do this.

if good enough is ok, your cost for materials is under $100....you may surprise yourself at the better than expected outcome.

is this an insurance claim? deductible $ amount? potential insurance rate hike? or if out of pocket....$$$$, investing <$100 and having the primer/paint/clearcoat cans in your possession....

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by E93Seattle (Racerbruce)

if good enough is ok, your cost for materials is under $100....you may surprise yourself at the better than expected outcome.

is this an insurance claim? deductible $ amount? potential insurance rate hike? or if out of pocket....$$$$, investing <$100 and having the primer/paint/clearcoat cans in your possession....

I'm paying out of pocket. I got rear ended in December, not at fault, but I'm concerned filing a new claim for this scratch would trigger a rate hike. I'm a bit sensitive to rate hikes with my daughter about to get her license any day now. Also I'm being somewhat realistic; if I get that side of the car painted I might as well get the hood and both front fenders painted. They were repainted previously and the body shop did a less than perfect job matching the color.

Hmmm... maybe I'll start on a small section and try it myself. I heard the toothpick trick works fairly well to build up paint.

What's a good source for sandpaper?

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

I'm paying out of pocket. I got rear ended in December, not at fault, but I'm concerned filing a new claim for this scratch would trigger a rate hike. I'm a bit sensitive to rate hikes with my daughter about to get her license any day now. Also I'm being somewhat realistic; if I get that side of the car painted I might as well get the hood and both front fenders painted. They were repainted previously and the body shop did a less than perfect job matching the color.

Hmmm... maybe I'll start on a small section and try it myself. I heard the toothpick trick works fairly well to build up paint.

What's a good source for sandpaper?

Home Depot

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by E93Seattle (Racerbruce)

Home Depot

I might just take a chance at it. I have little to lose. Just need to find a source for Sparkling Graphite Metallic touchup paint. Maybe I'll pick up a body panel at the junk yard to practice first!

I want to do a full correction on my 335i too; the paint is in decent shape overall but has a few swirls in the clearcoat. I'm pretty confident that Meguiars M105 and an orange pad will be sufficient. I don't have a rotary sander so I'll see if that combo with my DA polisher will work.